Textile Art PDF
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Rutgers University
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This document is about textile art in the Philippines, focusing on T'nalak, a spiritual textile of the T'boli tribe. It explains the creation process and cultural significance with detailed descriptions. The document also briefly covers other textile traditions in the Philippines.
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GE2404 TEXTILE ART Textile art is an art form that utilizes various materials and fibers to create decorative, artistic objects. It is a significant part of many cultures around the world, often reflecting the beliefs, traditions, and stories of the indi...
GE2404 TEXTILE ART Textile art is an art form that utilizes various materials and fibers to create decorative, artistic objects. It is a significant part of many cultures around the world, often reflecting the beliefs, traditions, and stories of the individuals who created them. This module focuses on the rich heritage of textile art in the Philippines. T’nalak The creation of textiles is considered a spiritual process where weavers connect with the natural and spiritual worlds. They utilize materials such as grass, pineapple fiber, and abaca, believed to contain spirits. Weaving is not just a craft but a way to communicate with spirits and draw inspiration from nature and the past. This belief is reflected in rituals and practices of respect and reverence. T'nalak weaving is a sacred art of the T'boli tribe in South Cotabato. The T'boli women, known as "dreamweavers," create intricate designs inspired by dreams. These dream-given patterns represent nature, myths, and ancestral wisdom and emerge in the cloth without being drawn as a form of spiritual narrative. The designs typically feature bold geometric patterns and natural motifs in black, red, and white, each with its meaning. Black often symbolizes the Earth, red represents blood and life, and the undyed portions reflect the purity of the natural abaca fiber. Lang Dulay, a T'boli Dreamweaver from the Lake Sebu region in South Cotabato, was honored with the National Living Treasures Award (GAMABA) in 1998 for preserving T'nalak weaving. Her dedication helped keep this tradition alive, sharing its deep cultural and spiritual significance with future generations. T’nalak Process T'nalak symbolizes the spirit and identity of the T'boli tribe, making it a crucial element of their cultural heritage. Below are the steps in the T’nalak process: 1. Harvesting and Preparing Abaca Fibers – The T'boli weavers use abaca (Manila hemp) fibers known for their strength and durability. The fibers must be stripped, dried, and manually separated, as this plant-based material is the primary textile for T'nalak weaving. 2. Splicing and Knotting – Since abaca fibers are relatively short, they must be spliced and knotted to form continuous threads suitable for weaving. 3. Dyeing Using Ikat Technique – The T'boli use the ikat technique, which involves resist-dyeing. Specific areas of the abaca threads are tied tightly to resist dye, creating intricate patterns. Natural dyes, primarily black and red, are traditionally used, although other colors have sometimes been introduced. 4. Weaving the T’nalak – The backstrap loom is an essential tool in this process. 5. Finishing – The cloth is softened by hand and inspected, and any loose ends are cleaned up to complete the weaving. Each piece is unique due to its handmade nature and the variations in dream- 08 Handout 1A *Property of STI Page 1 of 4 GE2404 inspired designs. T’boli art Besides T'nalak, T'boli art includes a variety of crafts and cultural expressions that reflect the community's connection to nature and reverence for ancestral spirits. Key elements of T'boli art are as follows: Brasswork – T'boli artisans create intricate brass accessories, figurines, and ceremonial items. This allows them to create detailed designs that include animals, mythological figures, and symbols of protection. Beadwork – Colorful beads are used to adorn clothing, headdresses, and jewelry, creating patterns inspired by nature and traditions. Beaded pieces play an essential role in T'boli rituals and celebrations. Woodcarving and Décor – Carvings of animals, ritual objects, and other symbolic figures are often used in homes or ceremonies. Each carving is decorative and a reminder of T'boli mythology and ancestral stories. Music and Dance – Music and dance are essential to T'boli celebrations, using instruments like the kudlong (two-stringed lute) and sludoy (bamboo zither). Madal tahaw (kadal tahaw), or bird dance, is performed during community gatherings and reflects their close relationship with nature. In conclusion, T'boli art reflects the T'boli people's connection to their ancestors and environment, preserving their history, identity, and beliefs. The art serves as a way to tell stories, express spirituality, and maintain cultural traditions for future generations. Other Textile Traditions In addition to T’nalak, there are other notable textile traditions in the Philippines, each with unique techniques and cultural significance. Dagmay Dagmay is a traditional handwoven textile made from abaca fibers by the Mandaya tribe in Davao Oriental and Davao del Norte. It features simple geometric patterns, often in earth tones like brown and red. The designs represent nature and daily life. While Dagmay is used for practical items like clothing and blankets, it also holds cultural meaning, preserving Mandaya heritage and craftsmanship. Samporonia Madanlo is a prominent Dagmay artist from the Mandaya tribe. She received the Gawad sa Manlilikha ng Bayan (GAMABA) Award in 2023. Her contributions to the preservation and promotion of Mandaya weaving traditions have made her a respected figure in the cultural community. Pis Syabit Pis refers to the geometric pattern, and siyabit stands for the hook and technique. Pis Syabit is a traditional handwoven textile from the Tausug tribe in Sulu. It is a colorful fabric, often made from silk or cotton, known for its geometric shapes, floral motifs, and symbols. Pis Syabit is used as a decorative piece or worn as a headscarf or shawl (shoulder covering), especially in ceremonies or special occasions. 08 Handout 1A *Property of STI Page 2 of 4 GE2404 Darhata Sawabi is a prominent Pis Syabit artist. She received the Gawad sa Manlilikha ng Bayan (GAMABA) Award in 2004. Her commitment to the quality of her products is unwavering. She is celebrated for teaching younger generations the art of Pis Syabit weaving. Seputangan The Seputangan is a traditional handwoven textile by the Yakan tribe in Zamboanga. It is made from cotton or silk and features vibrant colors and geometric patterns such as diamonds, squares, and zigzags. It is used in ceremonies and daily life, reflecting their rich weaving traditions. The fabric is commonly used as a headscarf, belt, or decorative garment. Yakan textile reflects the “pure beauty of nature.” Each design and shape woven through the cloth reflects nature. Ambalang Ausalin, or Apuh Ambalang, is a renowned Yakan Master Weaver. She received the Gawad sa Manlilikha ng Bayan (GAMABA) Award 2016. This artistry passed down to her daughters, nieces, and other weavers strengthens Yakan's identity and preserves their heritage in a globalized world. Inaul Inaul literally means “weave” in Maguindanao. Inaul is a traditional handwoven textile from the Maguindanao tribe. The patterns feature bold geometric shapes like diamonds, zigzags, and triangles. Inaul is woven on a backstrap loom with designs inspired by nature, cultural symbols, and royal motifs. It is commonly used for making malongs (tubular skirts) and is worn in cultural celebrations and ceremonies. Inaul symbolizes the strength of the culture and history of a great civilization; despite cultural imperialism, it stands firm with pride, dignity, and identity. The popularity of Inaul makes it possible for other women to be inspired to learn it as they observe the opportunity it poses. References: BARMM Official Website. (2022, November 24). Darhata Sawabi. https://bcpch.bangsamoro.gov.ph/darhata- sawabi/. BARMM Official Website. (2024, March 31). Threads of resilience: Darhata Sawabi—Sulu’s Pis Syabit weaving maestro, a national treasure. https://bangsamoro.gov.ph/news/feature-story/threads-of-resilience-darhata- sawabi-sulus-pis-syabit-weaving-maestro-a-national-treasure/ Belgera, A. (2023, July 21). T’nalak Festival: Weaving traditions, bridging history and cultural resilience. PIA. https://mirror.pia.gov.ph/features/2023/07/21/tnalak-festival-weaving-traditions-bridging-history-and-cultural- resilience. Berto. (2022, November 22). Dagmay. The Philippines Today. https://thephilippinestoday.com/dagmay/. “Cloth (Dagmay),” Mapping Philippine Material Culture, accessed November 13, 2024, https://philippinestudies.uk/mapping/items/show/5715. Garcia, I. R. (2019, May 31). Reviving the Mandaya’s ‘dagmay’ Mindanao Times. https://mindanaotimes.com.ph/reviving-the-mandayas-dagmay/. Living Asia Channel. (2014, May 16). WINDOW Lang Dulay [Video]. YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EvNFvTHFHAs. Manipon, R. H. (2024, January 1). Hail the newly declared National Living Treasures. Daily Tribune Lifestyle. https://lifestyle.tribune.net.ph/hail-the-newly-declared-national-living-treasures/. National Commission for Culture and the Arts. (n.d.). National Living Treasures: Lang Dulay. https://ncca.gov.ph/about-culture-and-arts/culture-profile/gamaba/national-living-treasures-lang-dulay/. National Museum. (2022, April 1). Apuh Ambalang and the Yakan Weaving Tradition. https://www.nationalmuseum.gov.ph/2022/04/01/apuh-ambalang-and-the-yakan-weaving-tradition/. “Pis Syabit (Silk Headscarf),” Mapping Philippine Material Culture, accessed November 13, 2024, https://philippinestudies.uk/mapping/items/show/29324. 08 Handout 1A *Property of STI Page 3 of 4 GE2404 T’boili Global Matters. (n.d.). T’nalak Weaving. http://www.tboli.globalmatters.com/prod01.htm. 7641 Islands. PH. (2022, March 28). Immerse yourself in culture through Yakan Master Weaver Ambalang Ausalin. https://7641islands.ph/explore/immerse-yourself-in-culture-through-yakan-master-weaver-ambalang-ausalin/. 08 Handout 1A *Property of STI Page 4 of 4