Textile History UNIT 1 PDF

Textile History UNIT 1 Introduction – Embroidery is a beautiful thread work on a variety of fabrics, which makes the fabric more attractive. – Women are the pioneers in creating excellent embroidery. Vedic Literature – 5000 BC MohenjoDaro – Indus Valley Civilization – 2000 BC – small bron...

Textile History UNIT 1 Introduction – Embroidery is a beautiful thread work on a variety of fabrics, which makes the fabric more attractive. – Women are the pioneers in creating excellent embroidery. Vedic Literature – 5000 BC MohenjoDaro – Indus Valley Civilization – 2000 BC – small bronze needles were excavated. Sources of Written record of Magesthenes – Greek ambassador to Information:- Court of Chandra Gupta Maurya – 4th Century BC. Tombs, Colourful Ajantha Caves – Sophistication of embroidery during renaissance. monuments, paintings, Embroidery was used by emperors and kings as a symbol of wealth & status. sculptures & Mughal invasion & their influence in art & culture of literatures nomadic tribes. The oldest surviving specimen – belonging jain nuns - 15th or 16th Century. Trading records - Greek, Roman, Persian & Chinese traded precious metalsEvolution of Indian & silk for Colourful Embroidery Indian cotton and fine embroidery. Until the European Industrial Revolution India was foremost center of textile production. Certain Historic events, famous cities, person, availability of raw materials, export and import have influenced the evolution of motifs and design. The impact of foreign influence & globalization of embroidery art is manifested at the level of technical details imparted. Pulkhari – Bulichantan embroidery– by muslim invasion Vedic period – metal & silk wire work – China Kashmiri emb – China via Iran Chikankari – white embroidery on linen of Europe Kasuti – Similar to Austrian, Hungarian & Spanish Embroidery Classification of Indian Embroidery- Regional Styles – Northern Most (Kashmir- Pashima shawl, HP – Chamba rumal) – Eastern India (Bengal – Kantha quilts, Orissa – Satgaon quilts) Western India (Gujarat – Kutch, Punjab – Phulkari Chaddars, Rajasthan – Gota & applique work) Lower Ganges valley (Bihar – Kashida, Katwa, UP – Golden Zardosi, Chikankari & phulpatti works) Southern India (Karnataka – Kasuti, AP – Banjara Emb, TN – Toda Embroidery and Madras checks with aari) Branches of Indian Embroidery – Court Embroidery – Trade Embroidery – Folk Embroidery – Temple Embroidery Court Embroidery – Embroidery was used by emperors and kings as a symbol of wealth & status. – The first Islamic ruler brought Timurid designs to India. – The emperors who followed developed it. – Court Embroidery flourished. – Chikankari flourished in 15 , 16th Century. Some historians believe that Noorjahan introduced this fine work. Trade Embroidery Gujarat, Southwest Rajasthan & Sindh – Export Mughal patronized trade with west and made Ahmadabad a manufacturing house. After mughal the East India company continued it. Kashmiri Shawls – England, Afghanistan & France – Elite. Chikankari – England Bengalla / satgaon quilt – Portuguese & England Madras handkerchiefs with aari work – mid eastern countries. Practiced by Women of the family. It served different domestic purposes. Articles and personal offerings for weddings and ceremonies. Folk Embroidery To decorate themselves and the children. Pride and community identity. Temple Embroidery – Work of dedicated crafts men. – Designs based on mythology. – Adorn the walls and decorate the temples. – As offerings to the temples. – Hindu & Jain temples (Pichhvai- source painting & wall hangings) Jain temples (Mandalas – ceremonial presentation to jain priest nuns) – Chamba rumal of HP – Cloth to cover offerings to deity.  – Certain stitches – common – Difference in pattern and style due to culture & tradition. – Needle size and length vary, tamboor hooks, aari hooks, fixings / held in hand. Techniques of Indian – Running, darning, chain, ladder, cretan, buttonhole, feather, fly, herringbone, stem, back, satin, long & short, couching, interlacing, sisha and other few stitches. Embroidery 8 Types of Indian Embroidery – Silk Embroidery – Quilting – Counted thread work – White work – Mirror work – Gold and Silver embroidery – Applique and Patch Work – Ribbon Embroidery