Wave Dynamics
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Questions and Answers

Which term is used to describe the area where waves break?

  • Wave front
  • Transitional waves
  • Shoaling water
  • Surf zone (correct)
  • What happens to the wave speed as the wave approaches the shore?

  • It increases
  • It becomes unpredictable
  • It decreases (correct)
  • It remains the same
  • What type of breakers occur on a gently sloping seafloor?

  • Uniform breakers
  • Plunging breakers
  • Choppy breakers
  • Spilling breakers (correct)
  • What happens to the waves when they enter shallow coastal waters?

    <p>They become parallel to the shoreline</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What causes the waves to bend when they enter shallow water?

    <p>The wave slows down</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What happens to a tsunami when it approaches shore?

    <p>It slows down and piles up</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which two tsunamis are mentioned in the text?

    <p>Japan and Indonesia</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which of the following is a common cause of tsunamis?

    <p>Earthquakes</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the primary reason for the formation of the wedge wave?

    <p>Reflective wave</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a standing wave?

    <p>A wave that reflects off something and interferes constructively with the approaching wave</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which type of wave occurs when waves go from deep water to shallow water quickly and slow down so fast that they start to curl over and crash down?

    <p>Plunging wave</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the main cause of wave refraction?

    <p>The bending of ocean waves</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Why do waves usually approach the coast at an angle?

    <p>Because they are refracted by the shore</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which type of energy source is mentioned in the text?

    <p>Wind energy</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Where are the best areas to place the turbines mentioned in the text?

    <p>In areas with large waves</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What happens to the water when the device mentioned in the text moves up and down?

    <p>Water flows through turbines</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What type of waves are experienced in coastal areas during winter?

    <p>Large waves</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Where can additional videos related to waves be found?

    <p>In the content area</p> Signup and view all the answers

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