Wave Dynamics

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18 Questions

Which term is used to describe the area where waves break?

Surf zone

What happens to the wave speed as the wave approaches the shore?

It decreases

What type of breakers occur on a gently sloping seafloor?

Spilling breakers

What happens to the waves when they enter shallow coastal waters?

They become parallel to the shoreline

What causes the waves to bend when they enter shallow water?

The wave slows down

What happens to a tsunami when it approaches shore?

It slows down and piles up

Which two tsunamis are mentioned in the text?

Japan and Indonesia

Which of the following is a common cause of tsunamis?

Earthquakes

What is the primary reason for the formation of the wedge wave?

Reflective wave

What is a standing wave?

A wave that reflects off something and interferes constructively with the approaching wave

Which type of wave occurs when waves go from deep water to shallow water quickly and slow down so fast that they start to curl over and crash down?

Plunging wave

What is the main cause of wave refraction?

The bending of ocean waves

Why do waves usually approach the coast at an angle?

Because they are refracted by the shore

Which type of energy source is mentioned in the text?

Wind energy

Where are the best areas to place the turbines mentioned in the text?

In areas with large waves

What happens to the water when the device mentioned in the text moves up and down?

Water flows through turbines

What type of waves are experienced in coastal areas during winter?

Large waves

Where can additional videos related to waves be found?

In the content area

Understanding Wave Behavior: Test your knowledge on how storms, wave angles, and coastal geography affect wave patterns at the beach.

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