Ocean Waves: Understanding Wave Crest and Trough

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15 Questions

What is the primary cause of most ocean waves?

The wind blowing on the surface of the water

What happens to ocean waves as they approach the shoreline?

They increase in height and speed

What is the movement of energy through the water called?

Wave energy

What is the Coriolis Effect?

The spinning of the earth

What type of waves are caused by friction between the air and water?

Surface waves

What happens to the water molecules in ocean waves?

They do not move much

Where are ocean waves most commonly seen?

Near the shoreline

What is the primary cause of water molecules moving up and down in ocean waves?

Energy in the water causing vertical motion

What is the term for a group of waves traveling together in the ocean?

Wave train

What type of ocean wave is caused by an earthquake or underwater volcano eruption?

Tsunami

What is the term for the highest point of an ocean wave?

Wave crest

What is the primary factor that determines the type of breaking wave that occurs on a shoreline?

The slope of the ocean floor

What is the term for the process of ocean waves eroding coastlines?

Erosion

What type of ocean wave is caused by the tides?

Tidal wave

What is the term for the large waves that can cross an ocean and are caused by major storms?

Ocean swells

Learn about the movement of ocean waves and how they are formed. Discover the role of energy in causing water molecules to move up and down, and understand the concept of wave crest and trough. Test your knowledge of ocean waves!

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