Ocean Waves: Understanding Wave Crest and Trough
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Questions and Answers

What is the primary cause of most ocean waves?

  • Abrupt disruptions in the ocean
  • The movement of tides
  • The wind blowing on the surface of the water (correct)
  • The heating of the earth at the equator by the sun

What happens to ocean waves as they approach the shoreline?

  • They increase in height and speed (correct)
  • They change direction
  • They maintain their original height and speed
  • They decrease in height and speed

What is the movement of energy through the water called?

  • Ocean currents
  • Ocean waves
  • Wave energy (correct)
  • Tidal movement

What is the Coriolis Effect?

<p>The spinning of the earth (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What type of waves are caused by friction between the air and water?

<p>Surface waves (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What happens to the water molecules in ocean waves?

<p>They do not move much (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Where are ocean waves most commonly seen?

<p>Near the shoreline (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary cause of water molecules moving up and down in ocean waves?

<p>Energy in the water causing vertical motion (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for a group of waves traveling together in the ocean?

<p>Wave train (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What type of ocean wave is caused by an earthquake or underwater volcano eruption?

<p>Tsunami (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for the highest point of an ocean wave?

<p>Wave crest (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary factor that determines the type of breaking wave that occurs on a shoreline?

<p>The slope of the ocean floor (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for the process of ocean waves eroding coastlines?

<p>Erosion (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What type of ocean wave is caused by the tides?

<p>Tidal wave (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for the large waves that can cross an ocean and are caused by major storms?

<p>Ocean swells (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

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