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Ocean Waves: Understanding Wave Crest and Trough

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Ocean Waves: Understanding Wave Crest and Trough

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Questions and Answers

What is the primary cause of most ocean waves?

Abrupt disruptions in the ocean

The movement of tides

The wind blowing on the surface of the water (correct)

The heating of the earth at the equator by the sun

What happens to ocean waves as they approach the shoreline?

They increase in height and speed (correct)

They change direction

They maintain their original height and speed

They decrease in height and speed

What is the movement of energy through the water called?

Ocean currents

Ocean waves

Wave energy (correct)

Tidal movement

What is the Coriolis Effect?

The spinning of the earth Signup and view all the answers

What type of waves are caused by friction between the air and water?

Surface waves Signup and view all the answers

What happens to the water molecules in ocean waves?

They do not move much Signup and view all the answers

Where are ocean waves most commonly seen?

Near the shoreline Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary cause of water molecules moving up and down in ocean waves?

Energy in the water causing vertical motion Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for a group of waves traveling together in the ocean?

Wave train Signup and view all the answers

What type of ocean wave is caused by an earthquake or underwater volcano eruption?

Tsunami Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for the highest point of an ocean wave?

Wave crest Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary factor that determines the type of breaking wave that occurs on a shoreline?

The slope of the ocean floor Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for the process of ocean waves eroding coastlines?

Erosion Signup and view all the answers

What type of ocean wave is caused by the tides?

Tidal wave Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for the large waves that can cross an ocean and are caused by major storms?

Ocean swells Signup and view all the answers