Understanding Twill and Satin Weaves

Plain Weaves

• Plain weave, also known as calico or tabby weave, is the simplest weave with a repeat size of 2.
• It features a maximum number of binding points.
• It has no right or wrong side, and doesn't stretch lengthwise or crosswise.
• It is less absorbent and creases easily compared to other weaves.
• It's versatile and hard-wearing, making it durable.

Twill Weaves

• Twill weave is a basic weave type distinguished by pronounced diagonal lines running along the fabric's width.
• In a regular twill, the diagonal lines repeat regularly, usually at a 45-degree angle.
• Twill weaves may vary in angle from a gentle slope to a steep slope.
• To be a twill, each warp thread must float over a minimum of two picks.
• Fabric characteristics can include: diagonal lines, directional orientation, and potentially a face/back orientation and interesting surface texture.
• Durability, wrinkle resistance, hardness, and a range of applications are also possible.
• Method of representation is done via fractions (e.g., 3/1, 2/1) where the numerator is the number of weft threads a warp thread overlaps and the denominator is the number of weft threads a warp thread underlaps within a repeat.

Satin & Sateen Weaves

• Satin is a warp-faced weave with warp threads more prominent, while Sateen is a weft-faced weave with weft threads more prominent.
• These are diagonally arranged weaves with few interlacing points, giving long floats and a lustrous appearance because fine, closely packed yarns are commonly used.
• Sateen and satin are used in diverse ways, including (but not limited to) denim, interlining, and dress materials.
• Sateen/satin weaves have a uniform structural characteristic.
• Method of construction uses move numbers (intervals of selection) to ensure consistent patterns, preventing twill-like streaks.

Plain Weave Derivatives

• Warp Rib, Weft Rib, Mock Rib, Simple Matt, Fancy Matt, and Dimity are various plain weave derivatives.
• Warp ribs create horizontal stripes, while weft ribs produce vertical stripes.
• Mock ribs are produced from filling a plain weave with two picks at the same time.
• Matt weaves are made by combining the plain weave in both warp and weft directions (e.g., 2x2, 3x3 Matt weaves)
• Dimity is a combination of various plain weaves and their derivatives, including warp ribs, mock ribs, or matt weaves.

Twill Weave Derivatives

• Pointed twills are created by combining right-hand and left-hand twills.
• Herringbone twills combine right and left hand twills, but reverse the pattern at the point of change in direction.
• Combined twills combine two or more twill weaves in unique patterns.
• Broken twills deliberately break the diagonal twill lines through reversing the twill factor.
• Transposed twill involves rearranging the original twill order, and elongated tweaks are formed at angles other than 45 degrees using differing warp and weft thread densities. They also use special methods in their creation.
• Curving the twill draft produces curved twill, which are made by curving the draft of any given twill weave.

Satin & Sateen Weave Derivatives

• Extended sateen/satin weaves extend the basic structures in the warp and/or weft directions.
• Satin-and-sateen stripes combine satin and sateen weaves to form striped patterns (horizontal or vertical).
• Satin-and-sateen checks combine these weaves to make checks.
• Rearranged twills (based on sateen weaves) rearrange the basic twill structure for unique patterns.
• Corkscrew twills are a specific type of rearranged twill.
• Twilled hopsacks are a type of hopsack weave.

Honeycomb Weaves

• Honeycomb weave fabrics are made by using threads that form ridges and hollows giving the fabric a cell-like appearance.
• Some types include: ordinary honeycombs, single ridge honeycombs, double ridge honeycombs, fancier honeycombs, and Brighton's honeycombs.

Checkerboard Weaves

• Checkerboard weaves are formed by combining two or more weaves (and variations) in a specific checkerboard pattern.
• The four sections of the weave usually have one of the differing weaves.

Huckaback Weaves

• Huckaback is a fabric using coarse absorbent linen or cotton.
• It includes plain weaves with floats, and various other variations in the patterns.

Crepe Fabrics

• Crepe fabrics are characterized by their irregularity and broken surface which is achieved through several methods, including: using crepe yarns, applying special finishes (mechanical or chemical), or through specially designed weave structures.