Twill and Satin Weaves Quiz

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Questions and Answers

How does the direction of yarn twist affect the prominence of twill patterns?

When the direction of yarn twist is the same as the twill direction, prominence is reduced; when opposite, prominence increases.

What are some advantages of using twill weaves in fabrics?

Twill weaves offer interesting surface textures, better wrinkle recovery, and the ability to achieve high counts for durability.

Can you list a few applications where twill weaves are commonly utilized?

Twill weaves are used in drill cloth, khaki uniforms, denim cloth, jeans, and soft furnishings.

What distinguishes satin weaves from sateen weaves?

<p>Satin is a warp-faced weave, whereas sateen is weft-faced, making warp prominent in satin and weft in sateen.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Describe a characteristic of both satin and sateen weaves.

<p>Both have no prominent weave structures and fewer interlacing points, resulting in longer float lengths.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What implications does the thread density have in satin and sateen weaves?

<p>Higher thread density is possible in both weaves, allowing for more mass per unit area.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the purpose of move numbers in the construction of satin and sateen weaves?

<p>Move numbers are used to determine the layout of the unit repeat in the weave's construction.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Why might seam strength be a concern in satin and sateen weaves?

<p>These weaves have poor seam strength due to thread mobility and fewer binding points.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the significance of the move number in weaving designs?

<p>The move number determines the starting point of the next warp yarn in the design.</p> Signup and view all the answers

List three rules for selecting the move number in satin/sateen weaves.

<p>The move number should not be equal to the repeat size, one less than the repeat size, or a factor/multiple of the repeat size.</p> Signup and view all the answers

If the weave is 4/1 satin, what is the repeat size?

<p>The repeat size is 5.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Why can't move number 5 be selected for a 4/1 satin weave?

<p>Because move number 5 is equal to the repeat size of the weave.</p> Signup and view all the answers

For a 4/1 satin weave, which move numbers can be selected?

<p>Move numbers 2 and 3 can be selected.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Describe how to mark the first warp end for the 4/1 satin weave using move number 3.

<p>The first end is filled with 4 Up (colored boxes) and 1 Down (blank box) according to the weave pattern.</p> Signup and view all the answers

In the marking process for the second end, what should be the starting point based on move number 3?

<p>The counting starts from the 1st Up (colored box) after the Down (blank box) in the first end.</p> Signup and view all the answers

How is the adjacent right box marked when filling the third warp end?

<p>It is marked with Down (kept blank) after counting move number 3.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What does the numerator and denominator of the twill fraction represent?

<p>The numerator represents the number of weft that a warp overlaps, while the denominator represents the number of weft that a warp underlaps.</p> Signup and view all the answers

How is the firmness of twill weave determined?

<p>The firmness of twill weave depends on the number of intersections per unit area; more intersections lead to greater firmness.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What distinguishes balanced twill from irregular cross twill?

<p>Balanced twill has equal numerator and denominator, while irregular cross twill has unequal numerator and denominator.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What characterizes a warp faced twill?

<p>In a warp faced twill, warp threads are more prominent than weft threads, such as in a 3/1 twill.</p> Signup and view all the answers

How do thread densities affect twill prominence?

<p>Twill prominence increases with the increase in warp and weft thread densities.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the relation between the nature of yarn and twill prominence?

<p>A coarse yarn of lower twist produces a greater effect on the twill than a fine yarn of higher twist.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Explain the impact of weave type on twill prominence.

<p>Twill with longer floats provides more prominence than those with shorter floats.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What distinguishes plain weave from other types of weaves in terms of thread interlacing?

<p>In plain weave, threads interlace in an alternating order, with each warp thread passing over and under weft threads sequentially.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What types of twill weave are characterized by the direction of yarn?

<p>Twill weaves can be categorized into S and Z directions based on how the yarn is twisted.</p> Signup and view all the answers

List three characteristics of plain weave that enhance its durability.

<p>Plain weave has maximum binding points, is hard-wearing, and has a tight structure.</p> Signup and view all the answers

How does the absorbency of plain weave compare to other weaves?

<p>Plain weave is less absorbent than other types of weaves.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What types of garments commonly utilize plain weave fabrics?

<p>Plain weave fabrics are often used for shirts, suits, blouses, and dresses.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Describe the primary visual characteristic of twill weave.

<p>Twill weave is distinguished by its pronounced diagonal lines that run along the width of the fabric.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the minimum requirement for the interlacing of threads in a twill weave?

<p>Each warp end must float over a minimum of two weft picks and under one.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Explain the difference between right-hand twill and left-hand twill.

<p>In right-hand twill, the diagonals run from right to left, while in left-hand twill, they run from left to right.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What factors affect the firmness of woven structures like plain and twill weaves?

<p>The firmness depends on the frequency of interlacing between warp and weft threads.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the basic structure of the 4/1 (5-End) Satin weave?

<p>The basic structure involves filling the first end with 4 Up (Coloured Box) and 1 Down (Blank Box).</p> Signup and view all the answers

How is the counting for Move No. 2 initiated in the 4/1 (5-End) Satin weave?

<p>Counting starts from the 1st Up (Coloured Box) after the Down (Blank Box) in the previous end.</p> Signup and view all the answers

In a 1/4 (5-End) Sateen with Move No. 2, what fills the first warp end?

<p>The first warp end is filled with 1 Up (Coloured Box) and 4 Down (Blank Boxes).</p> Signup and view all the answers

What happens to the second end when filling it in a 1/4 (5-End) Sateen with Move No. 2?

<p>Counting starts from the 1st Down (Blank Box) after the Up (Coloured Box) from the first end.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Explain the marking process for the adjacent right box of the second end in a 4/1 (5-End) Satin weave.

<p>The adjacent right box is marked with Down (keeping it blank) after completing the counting for Move No. 2.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Describe the process of filling subsequent ends in both the 4/1 Satin and 1/4 Sateen weaves.

<p>Each subsequent end follows the same counting system based on the previous end's filled pattern.</p> Signup and view all the answers

For 1/4 (5-End) Sateen with Move No. 3, how does the marking begin?

<p>The marking begins similarly to other patterns, specifying the first warp end's fill.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the significance of using colored boxes and blank boxes in these weave patterns?

<p>Colored boxes represent 'up' threads while blank boxes signify 'down' threads, indicating the weave's elevation.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the process for filling the first end in a Satin/Sateen weave pattern?

<p>The first end is filled with 1 Up (Coloured Box) and 4 down (Blank Boxes), starting the counting for the second end from the 1st down (Blank Box) after the Up (Coloured Box).</p> Signup and view all the answers

How do you differentiate between S-Satin and Z-Satin in a 4/1 Satin pattern?

<p>In a 4/1 Satin pattern, Move #3 creates S-Satin while Move #2 results in Z-Satin.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What distinguishes Regular Satin/Sateen Weave from Irregular Satin/Sateen Weave?

<p>Regular Satin/Sateen Weave has a specific move number throughout the repeat, while Irregular Satin/Sateen Weave does not.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What applications are commonly associated with Satin weaves?

<p>Satin weaves are used in denim, interlining cloth, ribbons, dress materials, and children's dress materials.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What characterizes a Regular Warp Satin?

<p>A Regular Warp Satin is produced with a definite move number throughout the repeat, such as 4/1 or 7/1 Satin.</p> Signup and view all the answers

How is an Irregular Warp Satin defined?

<p>An Irregular Warp Satin does not follow a definite move number throughout the repeat.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What occurs concurrently when filling the second end in the Satin/Sateen pattern?

<p>After counting from the 1st down (Blank Box), the adjacent right box of the second end is marked with 1 Up (Coloured Box), while the rest is marked with down (Blank Boxes).</p> Signup and view all the answers

Explain the significance of Move #2 and Move #3 in the production of 1/4 Sateen.

<p>Move #2 produces S-Sateen, while Move #3 results in Z-Sateen in the production of 1/4 Sateen.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Flashcards

Twill Weave Numerator

The number of weft threads a warp thread overlaps in a twill weave repeat.

Twill Weave Denominator

The number of weft threads a warp thread underlaps in a twill weave repeat.

Twill Repeat

The sum of the numerator and denominator in a twill weave fraction, representing the number of weft threads in one complete pattern repeat.

Balanced Twill

A twill weave where the numerator and denominator of the fraction are the same.

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Irregular Cross Twill

A twill weave where the numerator and denominator of the fraction are different.

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Twill Firmness

Firmness depends on the number of intersections per unit area in a twill weave.

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Warp-faced Twill

Twill weave where warp threads are more prominent than weft threads.

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Weft-faced Twill

Twill weave where weft threads are more prominent than warp threads.

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Plain Weave

The simplest weave, where warp and weft threads interlace in an alternating over-under pattern.

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Plain Weave Characteristics

Maximum binding points, no stretch or fraying, creases easily, less absorbent, and versatile.

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Twill Weave

A weave with diagonal lines running across the fabric due to the warp threads floating over multiple weft threads.

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Twill Weave Characteristics

Diagonal lines, varying angles, requires each warp thread floats over at least two weft threads and under one.

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Right-hand Twill

Diagonal lines sloping from right to left.

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Left-hand Twill

Diagonal lines sloping from left to right.

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Weave Firmness

Dependent on the number of interlacings between warp and weft threads. More interlacings mean a firmer, stronger weave.

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Weave Applications

Plain weaves are used for a variety of clothing items, including shirts, suits, and outer garments. Twills are also widely used.

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Yarn Twist Direction

The spinning direction of yarn (Z or S).

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Z Twist Yarn

Yarn spun in a clockwise direction.

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S Twist Yarn

Yarn spun in a counter-clockwise direction.

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Sateen Weave

Weft-faced weave, with long floats of weft yarns.

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Move Numbers (Satin/Sateen)

Used to determine the interlacing pattern in Satin/Sateen weaves.

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Twill Prominence

The visibility or strength of the diagonal twill lines in a weave.

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Satin/Sateen Weave

A type of weave with an interlacing pattern, where warp yarns float over a number of filling yarns.

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Move Number

A number used to determine the starting point for placing the next warp yarn in a satin/sateen weave.

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Weave Repeat

The repeating unit of design elements in a satin/sateen weave, the number of warp yarns or sets.

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Rules for Move Number

Criteria that the move number should not follow the repeat size of the weave.

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4/1 Satin

A type of satin weave with a 4-up, 1-down pattern (repeat is 5-end)

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Move number exclusion rules

Specific move numbers are prohibited to avoid creating twill-like diagonal patterns.

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Filling Yarn

The yarn (or thread) that runs horizontally across the woven fabric.

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Warp Yarn

The yarn (or thread) that runs vertically in a woven fabric.

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4/1 Satin Weave

A weaving pattern where 4 warp ends are raised for every 1 weft insertion.

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Satin with Move No. 2

A specific satin weave pattern, where the second warp end is placed using a move number sequence.

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1/4 Sateen Weave

A weaving pattern where 1 warp end is raised for every 4 weft insertions.

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Sateen with Move No. 2

A specific sateen weave pattern using a 2 move pattern.

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Warp End

A single thread in the warp, the vertical set of threads in a weaving structure.

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Weft Insertion

A single weft thread, the horizontal thread, that passes through warp threads in weaving.

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1/4 Sateen with Move No. 3

A weave pattern where 1 warp end is placed every 4 weft entries with a move of 3.

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Regular Satin

A satin weave where the pattern repeats with a specific number of moves in each repeat.

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Irregular Satin

A satin weave with a pattern that doesn't repeat with a set number of moves.

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Satin Applications

Satin weaves are used for various purposes including denim, interlining, ribbons, dress materials, and children's clothing.

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Direction of Satin Diagonal Lines

Satin weaves can be produced in either an 'S' or 'Z' direction, creating different diagonal lines on the fabric based on move numbers.

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Study Notes

Plain Weaves

  • Also known as calico or tabby weave
  • Simplest weave with a repeat size of 2
  • Characteristics:
    • No right or wrong side
    • No lengthwise or crosswise stretch
    • Less absorbent than other weaves
    • Easy to crease
    • Doesn't fray easily
    • Versatile
    • Tightest weave structure
    • Strong
    • Durable
  • Method of representation:
    • Threads interlace in alternate order (first warp thread overlaps the first weft thread,and passes under the second weft thread, the second warp thread passes under the first weft thread and overlaps the second one,and so on).
  • Applications:
    • Shirting
    • Suiting
    • Outer garments
    • Sheer fabrics
    • Blouses
    • Dresses
  • Textural Stability:
    • Firmness of a woven fabric depends on the frequency of interlacing between warp and weft threads.
    • More intersections mean a firmer fabric.

Twill Weaves

  • Second basic weave
  • Distinguishing feature: pronounced diagonal lines along the fabric width
  • Diagonal lines repeated regularly, usually running from left to right and right to left at a 45 degree angle.
  • Twill weaves vary in their angle from a low slope to a very steep slope.
  • A twill warp end must float over a minimum of two weft picks and under one weft pick; otherwise, it will still be a plain weave.
  • Classification:
    • Right hand twill (diagonals run from right to left, called Z-twill), left hand twill (diagonals run from left to right, called S-twill)
  • Method of representation: fractions (e.g., 2/1, 3/1, 3/2) - numerator is the number of weft threads a warp thread overlaps; denominator is the number of weft threads a warp thread underlaps within the repeat, the sum of the fractions = repeat size
  • Firmness: depends upon number of intersections per unit area
  • Types:
    • Balanced twill
    • Irregular cross twill
  • Applications:
    • Drill cloth
    • Khaki uniforms
    • Denim cloth
    • Blankets
    • Shirting
    • Hangings
    • Soft furnishings
    • Jeans
  • Characteristics:
    • Twill weaves may vary in angle
  • Additional Notes:
    • Variations from low slope to very steep slope are possible

Satin and Sateen Weaves

  • Satin is a warp-faced rearranged twill and Sateen is a weft-faced rearranged twill
  • Warp is more prominent in Satin, and weft in Sateen
  • Common use: as part of ornamented fabrics
  • Striking characteristic: bright appearance and smooth feel, due to fine count filament yarns; few interlacing points, which provide long floats
  • Characteristics:
    • Either warp or weft faced
    • No prominent weave structures
    • One binding point in each end or pick
    • No continuous twill lines
    • Poor seam strength due to thread mobility
    • Possible to have more thread density in warp and weft, and greater mass per unit area
    • Having less binding points and more float lengths
    • Using move numbers is necessary to construct these weaves
  • Method of representation: Fractions (e.g., 4/1, 1/4) - numerator = number of weft threads a warp thread overlaps, and denominator= number of weft threads skipped by warp thread in a repeat
  • Applications:
    • Denim.
    • Fabric interlinings.
    • Ribbons.
    • Dress materials (lustrous).
    • Children's clothing materials.

Plain Weave Derivatives

  • Warp Rib
  • Weft Rib
  • Matt

Twill Weave Derivatives

  • Pointed Twill
  • Herringbone Twill
  • Combined Twill
  • Broken Twill
  • Elongated Twill

Honeycomb Weaves

  • Threads form ridges and hollows, giving a cell-like appearance
  • Warp and weft threads float freely on either fabric side
  • Fabric is highly moisture absorbent
  • Common uses: towels, bedcovers, quilts
  • Types:
    • Ordinary Honeycombs (Single Ridge, Double Ridge)
    • Brighton's Honeycomb

Mockleno Weaves

  • Imitation of leno or gauze weaves
  • Similar perforated effects to leno or gauze weaving
  • Types:
    • Simple Mockleno
    • Spotted Mockleno

Huckaback Weaves

  • Coarse absorbent linen or cotton fabric for towels and glass cloth
  • Structure: similar to a checkerboard
  • Features: moisture-absorbing, firm, and hard-wearing

Diamond & Diaper Weaves

  • Further development of twill weave structures
  • Diamond weaves: combining right and left hand twills in four divided portions
  • Diaper weaves: combining right and left hand twills using herringbone junctions

Crepe Fabrics

  • Fabrics: characterized by roughness and irregularity
  • Production methods:
    • Using crepe yarns (hard, high twist for irregular appearance)
    • Applying special finishes (e.g., chemical/mechanical shrinkage to give crinkled/abraded effect)
    • Using special woven structures (e.g., combining weaves in specific ways)

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