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Questions and Answers
What primarily causes most ocean waves?
What primarily causes most ocean waves?
- Wind (correct)
- Seismic activity
- Tsunamis
- Ocean currents
Shallow water waves have a shorter base than deep water waves.
Shallow water waves have a shorter base than deep water waves.
False (B)
What are seismic sea waves more commonly known as?
What are seismic sea waves more commonly known as?
Tsunamis
The interaction between two or more waves that meet is called __________.
The interaction between two or more waves that meet is called __________.
Match the following types of waves with their descriptions:
Match the following types of waves with their descriptions:
Flashcards
Deep water waves
Deep water waves
Waves that have a base shorter than the water depth, meaning they don't feel the bottom. Energy travels through water particles, not the water itself.
Shallow water waves
Shallow water waves
Waves that have a base longer than the water depth, meaning they feel the bottom. They interact with the seabed, slowing down and changing their shape.
Transitional waves
Transitional waves
Waves that have a base length similar to the water depth, meaning they are neither deep nor shallow. They exhibit characteristics of both types.
Wind waves
Wind waves
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Tsunami
Tsunami
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Study Notes
Oceanography Wave Review
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Deep vs. Shallow Water Waves: Deep water waves have a shorter base compared to shallow water waves which have a longer base. Deep water waves occur in water depths greater than 1/2 of the wavelength. Shallow water waves occur in water depths less than 1/20 of the wavelength.
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Wave Refraction: Incoming waves bend around a point on the shore, changing direction in a motion called refraction.
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Deep Water Wave Energy: Before a wave 'feels the bottom' (at L/2), water movement in deep-water waves is circular.
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Wave Height and Length: Moderately sized wind waves in the open ocean have a theoretical maximum wave height-to-length ratio before they break.
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Wave Types: The three types of waves are deep water waves, shallow water waves, and transitional waves.
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Shallow Water Wave Velocity: Wave height affects the velocity of shallow water waves.
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Wave Generation: Wind is the primary cause of most ocean waves.
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Seismic Sea Waves: Seismic sea waves are also known as tsunamis.
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Fully Developed Sea: A fully developed sea occurs when waves reach their maximum possible size and energy.
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Wave Interference: Wave interference happens when one or two or more waves meet and interact in a specific way.
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Swash Zone: The swash zone is the area of the littoral zone between the deepest part of the shore, located between the deepest breaking waves and the shore.
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Standing Waves: Standing waves do not move laterally across the surface of the water; they appear to stand still, with fixed positions of crests and troughs.
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