Podcast
Questions and Answers
What type of tide features two high tides and two low tides each day?
What type of tide features two high tides and two low tides each day?
- Neap tide
- Diurnal tide
- Semi-diurnal tide (correct)
- Spring tide
During which lunar phase do spring tides occur?
During which lunar phase do spring tides occur?
- Third quarter
- First quarter
- Half moon
- New moon and full moon (correct)
What is the typical time interval between spring tides and neap tides?
What is the typical time interval between spring tides and neap tides?
- One week (correct)
- Three days
- Two weeks
- Five days
What phenomenon occurs when the moon is closest to the Earth?
What phenomenon occurs when the moon is closest to the Earth?
How often does a tidal tide rise approximately 240 cm?
How often does a tidal tide rise approximately 240 cm?
What is the effect of the sun's gravitational pull during neap tides?
What is the effect of the sun's gravitational pull during neap tides?
What occurs during apogee in relation to tidal ranges?
What occurs during apogee in relation to tidal ranges?
When the Earth is closest to the sun, how does this affect tidal ranges?
When the Earth is closest to the sun, how does this affect tidal ranges?
What causes waves to travel in the ocean?
What causes waves to travel in the ocean?
How does the motion of surface water affect stagnant deep bottom water in the ocean?
How does the motion of surface water affect stagnant deep bottom water in the ocean?
What happens to a wave as it approaches the beach?
What happens to a wave as it approaches the beach?
What is the wave height defined as?
What is the wave height defined as?
What is the term used for the difference between the gravitational attraction of the moon and the centrifugal force?
What is the term used for the difference between the gravitational attraction of the moon and the centrifugal force?
What does wave amplitude represent?
What does wave amplitude represent?
Which statement correctly describes the relationship between the moon and tidal bulges?
Which statement correctly describes the relationship between the moon and tidal bulges?
How is the wavelength of a wave defined?
How is the wavelength of a wave defined?
What is the term used for the time between high tide and low tide when the water level is falling?
What is the term used for the time between high tide and low tide when the water level is falling?
Which type of tide occurs when there is only one high tide and one low tide each day?
Which type of tide occurs when there is only one high tide and one low tide each day?
Which tidal phenomenon occurs when the sun and moon are aligned, resulting in the highest tidal ranges?
Which tidal phenomenon occurs when the sun and moon are aligned, resulting in the highest tidal ranges?
What factors do tides primarily depend on?
What factors do tides primarily depend on?
What type of tides have variations in height and are commonly found along the west coast of North America?
What type of tides have variations in height and are commonly found along the west coast of North America?
Which of the following is NOT a benefit of tides?
Which of the following is NOT a benefit of tides?
What is the effect of water density on ocean currents?
What is the effect of water density on ocean currents?
What is the primary use of tides in coastal areas?
What is the primary use of tides in coastal areas?
What primarily causes the periodic rise and fall of sea level known as tides?
What primarily causes the periodic rise and fall of sea level known as tides?
Which of the following is true regarding wave frequency?
Which of the following is true regarding wave frequency?
When are spring tides most likely to occur?
When are spring tides most likely to occur?
What are tidal currents caused by?
What are tidal currents caused by?
What is the effect of centrifugal force related to tides?
What is the effect of centrifugal force related to tides?
Which location is known for having the highest tides in the world?
Which location is known for having the highest tides in the world?
What happens to the height of tidal bulges on wide continental shelves?
What happens to the height of tidal bulges on wide continental shelves?
How do funnel-shaped bays affect tidal magnitudes?
How do funnel-shaped bays affect tidal magnitudes?
What term is used to describe the upward and downward movement of ocean water?
What term is used to describe the upward and downward movement of ocean water?
What causes spring tides?
What causes spring tides?
When is the distance between the earth and the moon at its minimum?
When is the distance between the earth and the moon at its minimum?
When does the earth reach its perihelion?
When does the earth reach its perihelion?
Which of the following factors influences ocean currents significantly?
Which of the following factors influences ocean currents significantly?
What is the primary source of energy for waves in the ocean?
What is the primary source of energy for waves in the ocean?
Which of the following best describes the role of mixing warm and cold currents?
Which of the following best describes the role of mixing warm and cold currents?
What is one of the main outcomes of currents replenishing oxygen in ocean waters?
What is one of the main outcomes of currents replenishing oxygen in ocean waters?
What primarily causes cold-water ocean currents to sink?
What primarily causes cold-water ocean currents to sink?
Which primary force is NOT involved in the initiation of ocean currents?
Which primary force is NOT involved in the initiation of ocean currents?
What percentages of ocean water do surface currents and deep water currents constitute, respectively?
What percentages of ocean water do surface currents and deep water currents constitute, respectively?
How do cold currents typically affect the areas they flow into?
How do cold currents typically affect the areas they flow into?
What is the primary reason for the increase in water level near the equator compared to mid-latitudes?
What is the primary reason for the increase in water level near the equator compared to mid-latitudes?
Which statement best describes surface currents?
Which statement best describes surface currents?
What happens to the water during high latitudes that contributes to the formation of deep water currents?
What happens to the water during high latitudes that contributes to the formation of deep water currents?
In which hemisphere does the Coriolis force cause water to move to the right?
In which hemisphere does the Coriolis force cause water to move to the right?
Flashcards
Wave Crest
Wave Crest
The highest point of a wave.
Wave Trough
Wave Trough
The lowest point of a wave.
Wave Height
Wave Height
The vertical distance between the crest and trough of a wave.
Wave Amplitude
Wave Amplitude
Half the wave height, the distance from the resting water level to either the crest or trough.
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Wave Period
Wave Period
The time it takes for two successive wave crests or troughs to pass a fixed point.
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Wavelength
Wavelength
The horizontal distance between two successive crests.
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Wave Energy
Wave Energy
The force that drives waves, usually caused by wind.
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Wave Motion
Wave Motion
The circular motion of water particles as a wave passes.
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Wave Speed
Wave Speed
The speed at which a wave travels through water. Measured in knots.
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Wave Frequency
Wave Frequency
The number of waves passing a fixed point in one second.
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Tides
Tides
The periodic rise and fall of sea level, usually twice a day.
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Surges
Surges
Changes in sea level caused by wind and atmospheric pressure.
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Gravity
Gravity
The force that pulls objects towards the center of the Earth.
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Centrifugal Force
Centrifugal Force
The force that acts against gravity, pushing objects outwards.
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Tidal Bulges
Tidal Bulges
The highest points of the tide, caused by the combined gravitational pull of the sun and moon.
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Spring Tides
Spring Tides
Tides that occur when the sun, moon and Earth align, resulting in higher high tides and lower low tides.
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Ocean Currents
Ocean Currents
The regular movement of a volume of water in a specific direction within the ocean.
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Primary Forces in Ocean Currents
Primary Forces in Ocean Currents
Forces that initiate the movement of water, like solar heating, wind, gravity, and the Coriolis effect.
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Secondary Forces in Ocean Currents
Secondary Forces in Ocean Currents
Forces that influence the direction and speed of ocean currents, like friction and the shape of the ocean floor.
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Surface Currents
Surface Currents
Ocean currents that occur near the surface of the ocean, making up about 10% of all ocean water.
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Deep Water Currents
Deep Water Currents
Ocean currents that occur deep below the surface, making up about 90% of all ocean water.
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Cold Currents
Cold Currents
Ocean currents that bring cold water into warm water areas.
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Warm Currents
Warm Currents
Ocean currents that bring warm water into cool water areas.
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Semi-diurnal tide
Semi-diurnal tide
Twice daily high tides and low tides, the most common tidal pattern.
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Neap tides
Neap tides
Occur when the Sun and Moon are at right angles to each other, with their gravitational forces diminishing each other.
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Tidal range
Tidal range
The difference between the highest high tide and the lowest low tide.
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Perigee
Perigee
The point in the Moon's orbit when it is closest to Earth, causing unusually high and low tides!
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Apogee
Apogee
Point in the Moon's orbit where it is farthest from Earth, leading to reduced tidal range compared to the average.
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Perihelion
Perihelion
When Earth is closest to the Sun, around January 3rd, causing greater tidal range.
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Tidal rate
Tidal rate
The rate at which the tide rises or falls
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Aphelion Tides
Aphelion Tides
When the Earth is farthest from the Sun, tidal ranges are much smaller than usual.
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Diurnal Tide
Diurnal Tide
A type of tide that occurs when there is only one high tide and one low tide each day.
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Mixed Tide
Mixed Tide
A type of tide with varying heights throughout the day.
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Ebb Tide
Ebb Tide
The time between the high tide and low tide, when the water level is falling.
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Flow Tide
Flow Tide
The time between the low tide and high tide, when the water level is rising.
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Density Differences and Ocean Currents
Density Differences and Ocean Currents
The differences in density of ocean water, due to salinity and temperature, contribute to the movement of ocean currents.
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Subtropical Currents
Subtropical Currents
Currents that flow along the western margins of subtropical anticyclones, characterized by warm and rainy climates.
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Mixing Zones of Currents
Mixing Zones of Currents
Regions where warm and cold currents mix, providing rich nutrients for fish populations.
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Upwelling & Downwelling
Upwelling & Downwelling
The vertical movement of ocean water, both upward and downward.
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Ocean Water Movements
- Ocean water is dynamic, influenced by physical characteristics (temperature, salinity, density), and external forces (sun, moon, wind).
- Horizontal motions include ocean currents and waves. Vertical motions include tides.
- Ocean currents are continuous water flows in definite directions, while waves are horizontal water movements.
- Waves are energy, not water itself; water moves in circles as waves pass.
- Wind energy drives waves, causing ripples that grow into larger waves.
- Wave size and shape indicate origin; steep waves are younger, while steady waves are older.
- Wave height depends on wind strength, duration, and area over which wind blows.
- Waves break when water depth is less than half the wavelength.
Wave Characteristics
- Crest: Highest point of a wave.
- Trough: Lowest point of a wave.
- Wave height: Vertical distance between the crest and trough
- Wave amplitude: Half of wave height
- Wave period: Time interval between two successive crests/troughs.
- Wavelength: Horizontal distance between successive crests.
- Wave speed: Rate at which wave moves through water (measured in knots)
- Wave frequency: Number of waves passing a point in one second.
Tides
- Tides are periodic rise and fall of sea level, primarily due to the gravitational pull of the sun and moon, and centrifugal force.
- Spring tides: Occur during full and new moon periods when sun, moon and earth are aligned, resulting in higher high tides and lower low tides.
- Neap tides: Occur during first and third quarter moon periods when sun and moon are at right angles to each other; resulting in smaller tidal ranges.
- Semi-diurnal tides: Two high and two low tides each day, with approximately equal heights.
- Diurnal tides: One high and one low tide each day.
- Mixed tides: Variations in high tide heights.
Ocean Currents
- Ocean currents are like rivers in the ocean, having definite paths and directions.
- Driven by primary forces (solar heating, wind, gravity, Coriolis effect) and secondary forces that shape flow.
- Solar energy causes water to expand, affecting water levels.
- Wind pushes water across surfaces.
- Gravity creates water slopes.
- The Coriolis force influences current direction (right in Northern Hemisphere, left in Southern Hemisphere), leading to gyres (large circular currents).
- Currents are strongest near the surface and decrease in speed with depth.
- Surface currents are about 10% of ocean water volume, while deep water currents make up the rest.
- Warm currents: Bring warmer waters to colder regions.
- Cold currents: Bring colder water into warmer areas.
Effects of Ocean Currents
- Strong influence on human activities (temperatures, fog, rainfall).
- Affect coastal climates: cool, arid conditions on western coasts (low latitudes); humid, mild conditions on eastern coasts (high latitudes).
- Affect animal life, creating productive fishing grounds in mixing zones.
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