Ocean Water Dynamics and Wave Characteristics

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Questions and Answers

What type of tide features two high tides and two low tides each day?

Neap tide

Diurnal tide

Semi-diurnal tide (correct)

Spring tide

During which lunar phase do spring tides occur?

Third quarter

First quarter

Half moon

New moon and full moon (correct)

What is the typical time interval between spring tides and neap tides?

One week (correct)

Three days

Two weeks

Five days

What phenomenon occurs when the moon is closest to the Earth?

Increased tidal ranges Signup and view all the answers

How often does a tidal tide rise approximately 240 cm?

Every hour Signup and view all the answers

What is the effect of the sun's gravitational pull during neap tides?

It counteracts the moon’s gravitational pull Signup and view all the answers

What occurs during apogee in relation to tidal ranges?

Tidal ranges are at their minimum Signup and view all the answers

When the Earth is closest to the sun, how does this affect tidal ranges?

Tidal ranges are greatly increased Signup and view all the answers

What causes waves to travel in the ocean?

Wind energy Signup and view all the answers

How does the motion of surface water affect stagnant deep bottom water in the ocean?

It has little to no effect Signup and view all the answers

What happens to a wave as it approaches the beach?

It slows down Signup and view all the answers

What is the wave height defined as?

Vertical distance from trough to crest Signup and view all the answers

What is the term used for the difference between the gravitational attraction of the moon and the centrifugal force?

Tide-generating force Signup and view all the answers

What does wave amplitude represent?

One-half of the wave height Signup and view all the answers

Which statement correctly describes the relationship between the moon and tidal bulges?

The moon's gravitational pull creates one bulge Signup and view all the answers

How is the wavelength of a wave defined?

Distance from one wave crest to the next Signup and view all the answers

What is the term used for the time between high tide and low tide when the water level is falling?

Ebb Signup and view all the answers

Which type of tide occurs when there is only one high tide and one low tide each day?

Diurnal tide Signup and view all the answers

Which tidal phenomenon occurs when the sun and moon are aligned, resulting in the highest tidal ranges?

Spring tide Signup and view all the answers

What factors do tides primarily depend on?

Earth-moon-sun positions Signup and view all the answers

What type of tides have variations in height and are commonly found along the west coast of North America?

Mixed tides Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following is NOT a benefit of tides?

Directly controlling ocean temperature Signup and view all the answers

What is the effect of water density on ocean currents?

High-density water always sinks Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary use of tides in coastal areas?

Generating tidal energy Signup and view all the answers

What primarily causes the periodic rise and fall of sea level known as tides?

The gravitational pull of the sun and moon Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following is true regarding wave frequency?

It indicates the number of waves passing a point per second. Signup and view all the answers

When are spring tides most likely to occur?

When the sun and moon are in a straight line with the Earth Signup and view all the answers

What are tidal currents caused by?

Tidal bulges being funneled between land masses Signup and view all the answers

What is the effect of centrifugal force related to tides?

It acts to negate the effects of gravity. Signup and view all the answers

Which location is known for having the highest tides in the world?

The Bay of Fundy, Nova Scotia Signup and view all the answers

What happens to the height of tidal bulges on wide continental shelves?

They have greater height. Signup and view all the answers

How do funnel-shaped bays affect tidal magnitudes?

They greatly change tidal magnitudes. Signup and view all the answers

What term is used to describe the upward and downward movement of ocean water?

Tide Signup and view all the answers

What causes spring tides?

The moon and the sun pulling the earth gravitationally in the same direction Signup and view all the answers

When is the distance between the earth and the moon at its minimum?

Perigee Signup and view all the answers

When does the earth reach its perihelion?

October Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following factors influences ocean currents significantly?

Wind patterns Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary source of energy for waves in the ocean?

Wind action Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following best describes the role of mixing warm and cold currents?

It helps regulate ocean temperature and nutrient distribution Signup and view all the answers

What is one of the main outcomes of currents replenishing oxygen in ocean waters?

Promotion of plankton growth Signup and view all the answers

What primarily causes cold-water ocean currents to sink?

Variations in density and gravity Signup and view all the answers

Which primary force is NOT involved in the initiation of ocean currents?

Coriolis force Signup and view all the answers

What percentages of ocean water do surface currents and deep water currents constitute, respectively?

10% surface currents, 90% deep water currents Signup and view all the answers

How do cold currents typically affect the areas they flow into?

They bring nutrients and cooler temperatures Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary reason for the increase in water level near the equator compared to mid-latitudes?

Heating by solar energy causing expansion Signup and view all the answers

Which statement best describes surface currents?

They are significantly influenced by the Coriolis force. Signup and view all the answers

What happens to the water during high latitudes that contributes to the formation of deep water currents?

It cools and increases in density. Signup and view all the answers

In which hemisphere does the Coriolis force cause water to move to the right?

Northern Hemisphere Signup and view all the answers

Study Notes

Ocean Water Movements

Ocean water is dynamic, influenced by physical characteristics (temperature, salinity, density), and external forces (sun, moon, wind).
Horizontal motions include ocean currents and waves. Vertical motions include tides.
Ocean currents are continuous water flows in definite directions, while waves are horizontal water movements.
Waves are energy, not water itself; water moves in circles as waves pass.
Wind energy drives waves, causing ripples that grow into larger waves.
Wave size and shape indicate origin; steep waves are younger, while steady waves are older.
Wave height depends on wind strength, duration, and area over which wind blows.
Waves break when water depth is less than half the wavelength.

Wave Characteristics

Crest: Highest point of a wave.
Trough: Lowest point of a wave.
Wave height: Vertical distance between the crest and trough
Wave amplitude: Half of wave height
Wave period: Time interval between two successive crests/troughs.
Wavelength: Horizontal distance between successive crests.
Wave speed: Rate at which wave moves through water (measured in knots)
Wave frequency: Number of waves passing a point in one second.

Tides

Tides are periodic rise and fall of sea level, primarily due to the gravitational pull of the sun and moon, and centrifugal force.
Spring tides: Occur during full and new moon periods when sun, moon and earth are aligned, resulting in higher high tides and lower low tides.
Neap tides: Occur during first and third quarter moon periods when sun and moon are at right angles to each other; resulting in smaller tidal ranges.
Semi-diurnal tides: Two high and two low tides each day, with approximately equal heights.
Diurnal tides: One high and one low tide each day.
Mixed tides: Variations in high tide heights.

Ocean Currents

Ocean currents are like rivers in the ocean, having definite paths and directions.
Driven by primary forces (solar heating, wind, gravity, Coriolis effect) and secondary forces that shape flow.
Solar energy causes water to expand, affecting water levels.
Wind pushes water across surfaces.
Gravity creates water slopes.
The Coriolis force influences current direction (right in Northern Hemisphere, left in Southern Hemisphere), leading to gyres (large circular currents).
Currents are strongest near the surface and decrease in speed with depth.
Surface currents are about 10% of ocean water volume, while deep water currents make up the rest.
Warm currents: Bring warmer waters to colder regions.
Cold currents: Bring colder water into warmer areas.

Effects of Ocean Currents

Strong influence on human activities (temperatures, fog, rainfall).
Affect coastal climates: cool, arid conditions on western coasts (low latitudes); humid, mild conditions on eastern coasts (high latitudes).
Affect animal life, creating productive fishing grounds in mixing zones.

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Description

Explore the fascinating movements of ocean water, including currents, waves, and tides. This quiz covers the physical factors affecting ocean dynamics and the characteristics of waves. Understand how wind influences wave formation and the key terms related to wave properties.