Ocean Water Movements Quiz

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Questions and Answers

What is the approximate rate of change of the tide, in centimeters per hour?

  • 240 (correct)
  • 360
  • 1440
  • 720

What is the approximate time interval between spring tides and neap tides?

  • 2 weeks
  • 6 hours
  • 1 day
  • 1 week (correct)

Which of the following factors contributes to the occurrence of unusually high and low tides?

  • The moon's position relative to the earth
  • The sun's position relative to the earth
  • The angle between the sun and moon
  • All of the above (correct)

Which type of tide is characterized by two high tides and two low tides each day?

<p>Semi-diurnal tide (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

When does the moon have the greatest gravitational pull on the earth?

<p>When it is at its perigee (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What effect does the sun's gravitational pull have on the tides?

<p>It weakens the moon's pull, leading to lower tides. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following is a TRUE statement regarding tides?

<p>Tides are influenced by the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the best description of a tide?

<p>A periodic rise and fall of water levels caused by gravitational forces. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for the highest point of a wave?

<p>Wave crest (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How does wind affect ocean waves?

<p>It provides energy to create waves. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What occurs when a wave approaches the beach?

<p>The wave slows down due to friction. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is wave amplitude defined as?

<p>One-half of the wave height. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Why does stagnant deep bottom water remain unaffected by surface water motion?

<p>Surface waves do not penetrate deeply. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the role of the gravitational attraction of the moon in tidal movements?

<p>It generates tidal bulges toward the moon. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which statement accurately describes wave height?

<p>It is the vertical distance from trough to crest. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What happens to the centrifugal force relative to the moon's gravitational pull on Earth?

<p>It creates a tidal bulge on the opposite side. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What primarily causes waves in the ocean?

<p>Wind blowing over the water surface (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What distinguishes ocean currents from waves?

<p>Currents are continuous flows of water in a direction, while waves are energy moving across the surface (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What effect do the sun and moon have on ocean water?

<p>They cause vertical movement due to their gravitational pull (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which statement about wave formation is true?

<p>The maximum wave height is influenced by the wind's strength and duration (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is meant by the term 'upwelling' in ocean water movement?

<p>The rise of cold water from below to the surface (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What happens to water in waves as they move forward?

<p>The water remains stationary while the energy moves (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How does wave size relate to its origin?

<p>Slow waves originate further away from their breaking point (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What can be inferred about waves described as 'steep'?

<p>They are formed from strong wind close to the shore (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What primarily initiates the movement of ocean currents?

<p>Solar energy, wind, gravity, and coriolis force (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What percentage of ocean water is comprised of surface currents?

<p>10 percent (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which forces influence the flow of ocean currents?

<p>Primary and secondary forces (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What causes deep water currents to sink into the ocean basins?

<p>Increased water density due to cold temperatures (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How does the Coriolis force affect ocean currents in the northern hemisphere?

<p>It causes water to move to the right (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Where are cold ocean currents typically found?

<p>On the west coast of continents in low and middle latitudes (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What phenomenon causes ocean water to be approximately 8 cm higher at the equator than at middle latitudes?

<p>Expansion of water due to solar heating (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following classifications does NOT apply to ocean currents?

<p>Freshwater and saltwater currents (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What defines a diurnal tide?

<p>One high tide and one low tide each day (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What are spring tides and neap tides classified as?

<p>Tides based on sun, moon, and earth positions (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How do tides assist in navigation?

<p>By allowing for the prediction of tidal heights in advance (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the term used for the time during which water levels are falling?

<p>Ebb (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Why are tides important in desilting processes?

<p>They facilitate the removal of sediments and pollutants (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What effect does water density have on ocean currents?

<p>Cold water sinks while warm water rises (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What can significantly influence tidal ranges?

<p>The position of the sun and moon relative to the earth (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Where are mixed tides commonly found?

<p>On the west coast of North America and many Pacific islands (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

In which hemisphere do warm currents from low latitudes move to the right due to the Coriolis force?

<p>Northern hemisphere (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What characterizes the marine climate found along the west coasts of continents in middle and higher latitudes?

<p>Narrow temperature range throughout the year (B), Cool summers and mild winters (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How are ocean currents primarily influenced in regions of monsoonal flow?

<p>By monsoon winds (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a primary effect of the oceanic circulation on climate?

<p>It transports heat from one latitude belt to another. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the nature of the temperature range in the waters bordering the west coasts of continents in tropical and subtropical latitudes?

<p>Narrow and relatively low (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

In which pattern do cold waters from the Arctic and Antarctic circles move?

<p>Towards regions of lower latitudes (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following statements is true regarding the west coasts of continents in higher latitudes?

<p>They are affected by cool waters, creating distinct marine climates. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a direct consequence of the warm currents flowing parallel to the east coasts of continents in tropical and subtropical latitudes?

<p>More stable and warmer water temperatures (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Flashcards

Spring Tides

Tides that occur during the full moon and new moon, resulting in two high and two low tides each month.

Neap Tides

Tides that occur when the sun and moon are at right angles, resulting in lower high tides and higher low tides.

Semi-diurnal Tide

A tidal pattern featuring two high tides and two low tides each day, common in many places.

Perigee

The point in the moon's orbit when it is closest to the Earth, leading to unusually high and low tides.

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Apogee

The point in the moon's orbit when it is farthest from the Earth, resulting in lower tidal ranges.

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Tidal Range

The difference in height between high tide and low tide; can vary based on moon and sun positions.

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Tidal Frequency

How many times tides occur (high and low) in a specific time period, affecting tidal patterns.

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Gravitational Pull

The force exerted by the moon and sun that affects the tides; stronger in the case of the moon.

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Wave Motion

Water particles in a wave travel in small circles as waves pass.

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Energy Source of Waves

Waves are generated by wind energy travelling across the ocean surface.

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Effect of Depth on Waves

Waves slow down as they approach the shore due to sea floor friction.

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Crest and Trough

Crest is the highest point; trough is the lowest point of a wave.

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Wave Height

The vertical distance from the trough to the crest of a wave.

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Wave Amplitude

The amplitude is half the height of a wave; distance from rest to crest.

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Wave Period

The time interval between two successive wave crests or troughs passing a point.

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Wavelength

The horizontal distance between two successive crests of a wave.

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Ocean Currents

Persistent, directed movements of ocean water influenced by forces.

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Primary Forces

Forces that initiate ocean current movement: solar energy, wind, gravity, Coriolis force.

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Surface Currents

Currents that occur in the upper 400 m of the ocean, constituting about 10% of ocean water.

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Deep Water Currents

Currents that make up 90% of ocean water, moving around due to density variations.

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Coriolis Force

Force causing water to move right in the northern hemisphere and left in the southern hemisphere.

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Cold Currents

Currents that bring cold water into warmer areas, typically found on west coasts of continents.

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Warm Water Currents

Currents that flow from equator towards poles, warming the ocean as they go.

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Gradient Variation

Difference in water level causing movement; important for understanding currents.

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Tides

The regular rise and fall of sea levels caused by gravitational forces of the moon and the sun.

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Ebb

The time period when the water level is falling after a high tide.

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Flow

The time period when the water level is rising towards high tide.

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Diurnal Tide

A tide pattern with one high tide and one low tide each day.

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Mixed Tide

A tide pattern with variations in height, having more than one high and low tide daily.

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Importance of Tides

Tides assist in navigation, desilting sediment, and generating electrical power.

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Coriolis Effect

The observed deflection of moving objects (like ocean currents) due to Earth's rotation. In the northern hemisphere, currents turn right; in the southern, they turn left.

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Monsoonal Flow

Seasonal winds in certain regions that significantly influence ocean currents and weather patterns, particularly in tropical areas.

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Ocean Current Influence

Ocean currents impact weather and climate, affecting human activities and ecosystems along coastlines.

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Cold vs. Warm Currents

Cold currents usually come from polar regions, leading to cooler coastal climates, while warm currents arise from tropics, leading to milder conditions.

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Oceanic Heat Transport

Movement of warm water from low latitudes to higher latitudes, redistributing heat in the ocean just like atmospheric circulation.

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Marine Climate Characteristics

Regions bordering warm ocean currents often have cool summers and mild winters, resulting in a narrow annual temperature range.

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Coastal Climate Differences

West coasts in tropical latitudes often have cool waters, while those in higher latitudes are warmer, influencing local climates and weather.

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Impact of Ocean Currents on Fog

Coastal areas affected by cold ocean currents often experience fog, due to the contrasts in temperature leading to moisture in the air.

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Waves

Horizontal motion of water caused mainly by wind.

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Wave Formation

Waves grow larger as they absorb wind energy.

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Wave Characteristics

Size and shape indicate origin of the wave.

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Upwelling

Cold water rises from subsurface; part of vertical motion.

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Maximum Wave Height

Determined by wind strength and duration over an area.

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Study Notes

Ocean Water Movements

  • Ocean water is dynamic, influenced by physical characteristics (temperature, salinity, density) and external forces (sun, moon, wind).
  • Horizontal motions include currents and waves; vertical motions include tides.
  • Ocean currents are continuous water flows in a definite direction.
  • Waves are energy moving across the surface; water particles move in circles. Wind generates wave energy, which is released on shorelines.
  • Wave size and shape indicate origin; steep waves are young, likely from local winds; steady waves are older and from farther away.
  • Wave height is determined by wind strength, duration, and fetch (area over which wind blows).
  • Wave breaks when water depth is less than half the wavelength.
  • Deep-water waves have larger wavelengths and speeds than shallow-water waves.

Waves

  • Waves are energy, not water itself.
  • Water particles move in a circular motion as a wave passes, returning to their initial position.
  • Wave crest is the highest point; trough is the lowest.
  • Wave height is the vertical distance between crest and trough.
  • Wave amplitude is half the wave height.
  • Wave period is time between two successive waves passing a fixed point.
  • Wave length is distance between two successive crests.
  • Wave speed is the rate at which it moves through the water.
  • Wave frequency is the number of waves passing a point per second.

Tides

  • Tides are the periodic rise and fall of sea level, primarily caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun.
  • Spring tides occur when the sun, moon, and Earth are aligned, resulting in exceptionally high and low tides.
  • Neap tides occur when the sun and moon are at right angles to each other, producing smaller tidal ranges.
  • Tidal bulges occur on the side of Earth facing the moon and on the opposite side due to gravitational and centrifugal forces.
  • The sun affects tides, though less than the moon.
  • Factors like the moon's orbit (perigee and apogee) and Earth's position relative to the sun (perihelion and aphelion) influence tidal height.
  • Ebb is the falling tide; flood is the rising tide.
  • Tides are important for navigation, especially in shallow harbors and estuaries.

Ocean Currents

  • Ocean currents are like rivers in the ocean, with regular flows in a specific direction.
  • They're driven by several forces, including solar heating (creating gradients), wind, gravity, and the Coriolis effect.
  • A gyre is a large circular current pattern in the ocean basins.
  • Currents are influenced by different factors, such as temperature and salinity, affecting their density.
  • Cold water currents sink, while warmer water rises.
  • Warm currents bring warm waters to colder areas; cold currents bring cold waters to warmer areas.
  • Currents are important for heat distribution and biodiveristy from different latitudes and have various effects on coastal weather and climate.

Exercises

  • Multiple choice: Ocean water movement is known as a "tide". Spring tides occur when the sun, moon, and Earth are aligned.
  • Other questions: Elaborate on wave generation, temperature effects on currents, and tides.

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