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Questions and Answers
What is the approximate rate of change of the tide, in centimeters per hour?
What is the approximate rate of change of the tide, in centimeters per hour?
What is the approximate time interval between spring tides and neap tides?
What is the approximate time interval between spring tides and neap tides?
Which of the following factors contributes to the occurrence of unusually high and low tides?
Which of the following factors contributes to the occurrence of unusually high and low tides?
Which type of tide is characterized by two high tides and two low tides each day?
Which type of tide is characterized by two high tides and two low tides each day?
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When does the moon have the greatest gravitational pull on the earth?
When does the moon have the greatest gravitational pull on the earth?
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What effect does the sun's gravitational pull have on the tides?
What effect does the sun's gravitational pull have on the tides?
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Which of the following is a TRUE statement regarding tides?
Which of the following is a TRUE statement regarding tides?
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What is the best description of a tide?
What is the best description of a tide?
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What is the term for the highest point of a wave?
What is the term for the highest point of a wave?
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How does wind affect ocean waves?
How does wind affect ocean waves?
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What occurs when a wave approaches the beach?
What occurs when a wave approaches the beach?
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What is wave amplitude defined as?
What is wave amplitude defined as?
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Why does stagnant deep bottom water remain unaffected by surface water motion?
Why does stagnant deep bottom water remain unaffected by surface water motion?
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What is the role of the gravitational attraction of the moon in tidal movements?
What is the role of the gravitational attraction of the moon in tidal movements?
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Which statement accurately describes wave height?
Which statement accurately describes wave height?
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What happens to the centrifugal force relative to the moon's gravitational pull on Earth?
What happens to the centrifugal force relative to the moon's gravitational pull on Earth?
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What primarily causes waves in the ocean?
What primarily causes waves in the ocean?
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What distinguishes ocean currents from waves?
What distinguishes ocean currents from waves?
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What effect do the sun and moon have on ocean water?
What effect do the sun and moon have on ocean water?
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Which statement about wave formation is true?
Which statement about wave formation is true?
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What is meant by the term 'upwelling' in ocean water movement?
What is meant by the term 'upwelling' in ocean water movement?
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What happens to water in waves as they move forward?
What happens to water in waves as they move forward?
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How does wave size relate to its origin?
How does wave size relate to its origin?
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What can be inferred about waves described as 'steep'?
What can be inferred about waves described as 'steep'?
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What primarily initiates the movement of ocean currents?
What primarily initiates the movement of ocean currents?
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What percentage of ocean water is comprised of surface currents?
What percentage of ocean water is comprised of surface currents?
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Which forces influence the flow of ocean currents?
Which forces influence the flow of ocean currents?
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What causes deep water currents to sink into the ocean basins?
What causes deep water currents to sink into the ocean basins?
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How does the Coriolis force affect ocean currents in the northern hemisphere?
How does the Coriolis force affect ocean currents in the northern hemisphere?
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Where are cold ocean currents typically found?
Where are cold ocean currents typically found?
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What phenomenon causes ocean water to be approximately 8 cm higher at the equator than at middle latitudes?
What phenomenon causes ocean water to be approximately 8 cm higher at the equator than at middle latitudes?
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Which of the following classifications does NOT apply to ocean currents?
Which of the following classifications does NOT apply to ocean currents?
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What defines a diurnal tide?
What defines a diurnal tide?
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What are spring tides and neap tides classified as?
What are spring tides and neap tides classified as?
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How do tides assist in navigation?
How do tides assist in navigation?
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What is the term used for the time during which water levels are falling?
What is the term used for the time during which water levels are falling?
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Why are tides important in desilting processes?
Why are tides important in desilting processes?
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What effect does water density have on ocean currents?
What effect does water density have on ocean currents?
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What can significantly influence tidal ranges?
What can significantly influence tidal ranges?
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Where are mixed tides commonly found?
Where are mixed tides commonly found?
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In which hemisphere do warm currents from low latitudes move to the right due to the Coriolis force?
In which hemisphere do warm currents from low latitudes move to the right due to the Coriolis force?
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What characterizes the marine climate found along the west coasts of continents in middle and higher latitudes?
What characterizes the marine climate found along the west coasts of continents in middle and higher latitudes?
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How are ocean currents primarily influenced in regions of monsoonal flow?
How are ocean currents primarily influenced in regions of monsoonal flow?
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What is a primary effect of the oceanic circulation on climate?
What is a primary effect of the oceanic circulation on climate?
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What is the nature of the temperature range in the waters bordering the west coasts of continents in tropical and subtropical latitudes?
What is the nature of the temperature range in the waters bordering the west coasts of continents in tropical and subtropical latitudes?
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In which pattern do cold waters from the Arctic and Antarctic circles move?
In which pattern do cold waters from the Arctic and Antarctic circles move?
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Which of the following statements is true regarding the west coasts of continents in higher latitudes?
Which of the following statements is true regarding the west coasts of continents in higher latitudes?
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What is a direct consequence of the warm currents flowing parallel to the east coasts of continents in tropical and subtropical latitudes?
What is a direct consequence of the warm currents flowing parallel to the east coasts of continents in tropical and subtropical latitudes?
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Study Notes
Ocean Water Movements
- Ocean water is dynamic, influenced by physical characteristics (temperature, salinity, density) and external forces (sun, moon, wind).
- Horizontal motions include currents and waves; vertical motions include tides.
- Ocean currents are continuous water flows in a definite direction.
- Waves are energy moving across the surface; water particles move in circles. Wind generates wave energy, which is released on shorelines.
- Wave size and shape indicate origin; steep waves are young, likely from local winds; steady waves are older and from farther away.
- Wave height is determined by wind strength, duration, and fetch (area over which wind blows).
- Wave breaks when water depth is less than half the wavelength.
- Deep-water waves have larger wavelengths and speeds than shallow-water waves.
Waves
- Waves are energy, not water itself.
- Water particles move in a circular motion as a wave passes, returning to their initial position.
- Wave crest is the highest point; trough is the lowest.
- Wave height is the vertical distance between crest and trough.
- Wave amplitude is half the wave height.
- Wave period is time between two successive waves passing a fixed point.
- Wave length is distance between two successive crests.
- Wave speed is the rate at which it moves through the water.
- Wave frequency is the number of waves passing a point per second.
Tides
- Tides are the periodic rise and fall of sea level, primarily caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun.
- Spring tides occur when the sun, moon, and Earth are aligned, resulting in exceptionally high and low tides.
- Neap tides occur when the sun and moon are at right angles to each other, producing smaller tidal ranges.
- Tidal bulges occur on the side of Earth facing the moon and on the opposite side due to gravitational and centrifugal forces.
- The sun affects tides, though less than the moon.
- Factors like the moon's orbit (perigee and apogee) and Earth's position relative to the sun (perihelion and aphelion) influence tidal height.
- Ebb is the falling tide; flood is the rising tide.
- Tides are important for navigation, especially in shallow harbors and estuaries.
Ocean Currents
- Ocean currents are like rivers in the ocean, with regular flows in a specific direction.
- They're driven by several forces, including solar heating (creating gradients), wind, gravity, and the Coriolis effect.
- A gyre is a large circular current pattern in the ocean basins.
- Currents are influenced by different factors, such as temperature and salinity, affecting their density.
- Cold water currents sink, while warmer water rises.
- Warm currents bring warm waters to colder areas; cold currents bring cold waters to warmer areas.
- Currents are important for heat distribution and biodiveristy from different latitudes and have various effects on coastal weather and climate.
Exercises
- Multiple choice: Ocean water movement is known as a "tide". Spring tides occur when the sun, moon, and Earth are aligned.
- Other questions: Elaborate on wave generation, temperature effects on currents, and tides.
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Description
Test your knowledge on the dynamics of ocean water movements including ocean currents, waves, and tides. Explore how physical characteristics and external forces influence these movements and understand the distinctions between deep-water and shallow-water waves.
