Ocean Water Movements and Waves
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Questions and Answers

What term is used to describe the strong flow of currents near the ocean surface?

  • Gyres
  • Current strength
  • Drift (correct)
  • Coriolis force

Where are warm currents predominantly found, according to the characteristics of ocean currents?

  • In the open ocean away from continents
  • Near the poles in both hemispheres
  • On the west coast of continents in high latitudes
  • On the east coast of continents in low and middle latitudes (correct)

What generally influences major ocean currents?

  • Geothermal activity
  • Tectonic movements
  • Prevailing winds and Coriolis force (correct)
  • Salinity differences

How fast can surface ocean currents typically attain speeds?

<p>Over 5 knots (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What happens to the speed of a current as depth increases?

<p>It decreases (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following statements is true regarding ocean currents in the northern hemisphere?

<p>They are strongest at the surface (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the maximum speed generally associated with most ocean currents?

<p>Less than or equal to 5 knots (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How does the oceanic circulation pattern relate to atmospheric circulation?

<p>They roughly correspond to one another (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What happens to wind energy as waves travel towards shorelines?

<p>The energy is released on shorelines. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following defines the wave height?

<p>The distance from the bottom of a trough to the crest. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How does the motion of surface water generally affect deep bottom water in the ocean?

<p>It seldom affects stagnant deep bottom water. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What occurs to a wave as it approaches the beach?

<p>It slows down due to friction with the sea floor. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is wave amplitude?

<p>One-half of the height of the wave. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What causes tidal bulges on Earth?

<p>The difference between the gravitational attraction of the moon and centrifugal force. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which statement accurately describes the wave period?

<p>The time interval between two successive wave crests. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the significance of wave wavelength?

<p>It is the horizontal distance between two successive crests. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What phenomenon is characterized by only one high tide and one low tide each day?

<p>Diurnal tide (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

During which period are tidal ranges typically less than average?

<p>Aphelion (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What does the term 'ebb' refer to in tidal patterns?

<p>The time when the water level is falling (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What type of tides are characterized by variations in height?

<p>Mixed tide (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How do tides benefit navigation, especially in harbors?

<p>By aiding in the desilting of sediments (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What determines the height of high tide?

<p>Position of the Sun and Moon relative to the Earth (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following statements about salinity and density is accurate?

<p>High salinity water is denser than low salinity water (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which country is known for its tidal power projects?

<p>Canada (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What primarily causes the majority of ocean waves?

<p>Wind acting on the surface of the water. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How does wave size and shape indicate its origin?

<p>Waves with high peak heights come from distant storms. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What results from the gravitational forces of the sun and moon on ocean waters?

<p>Tides occur with a rise and fall. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What distinguishes the horizontal motion of ocean water from the vertical motion?

<p>Horizontal motion includes waves and vertical includes tides. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What happens to waves as they approach the shore?

<p>They break and form surf upon reaching shallow waters. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What primarily influences the maximum height a wave can reach?

<p>The strength and duration of the wind. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the main difference between ocean currents and waves?

<p>Currents flow continuously, whereas waves are temporary. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What physical characteristics influence the movement of ocean water?

<p>Temperature, salinity, and density. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary influence on ocean currents in regions with pronounced monsoonal flow?

<p>Monsoon winds (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

In the northern hemisphere, how does the Coriolis force affect the direction of warm currents from low latitudes?

<p>They move to the right (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How do ocean currents affect the climate on the west coasts of continents in tropical and subtropical latitudes?

<p>They are bordered by cool waters (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What climate characteristics are typical for the west coasts of continents in middle and higher latitudes?

<p>Cool summers and mild winters (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the effect of cold waters from the Arctic and Antarctic circles on ocean currents?

<p>They head towards warmer tropical regions (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What happens to warm waters from lower latitudes according to oceanic circulation patterns?

<p>They move polewards (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How does the average temperature range differ between the west coasts of tropical latitudes and those in middle latitudes?

<p>Tropical latitudes have narrow temperature ranges (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What type of climate is indicated by warm currents flowing parallel to the east coasts of continents in tropical latitudes?

<p>Warm and wet climate (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What do we call the upward and downward movement of ocean water?

<p>Tide (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What causes spring tides?

<p>Moon and sun pulling the Earth gravitationally in the same direction (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

When is the distance between the Earth and the Moon at its minimum?

<p>Perigee (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

At which point does the Earth reach its perihelion?

<p>January (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How do ocean currents influence coastal temperatures in Northwestern Europe?

<p>They moderate climate by warming colder currents (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following is NOT a factor that contributes to ocean currents?

<p>Ocean floor composition (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following areas is likely to have the best fishing grounds?

<p>Coastal upwelling zones (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What energy source do ocean waves primarily derive from?

<p>Wind energy (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Flashcards

Ocean Currents

The continuous movement of large amounts of ocean water in a specific direction.

Tides

The up and down movement of ocean water caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun.

Waves

The horizontal movement of water that forms crests and troughs.

Wind

The force responsible for the formation of waves.

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Wave Break

The point where a wave breaks.

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Wave Crest

The highest point of a wave.

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Wavelength

The distance between two successive crests or troughs of a wave.

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Wave Trough

The lowest point of a wave.

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Wave Height

The vertical distance from the trough to the crest of a wave.

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Upwelling

The upward movement of cold water from the ocean depths.

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Wave Amplitude

Half of the wave height. It's the distance from the rest position to the crest or trough.

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Sinking

The downward movement of surface water in the ocean.

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Wave Period

The time it takes for two successive wave crests (or troughs) to pass a fixed point.

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Wavelength

The horizontal distance between two successive wave crests.

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Wave Motion

The movement of water particles in a circular motion as a wave passes, mostly affecting the surface.

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Tide-Generating Force

The force that causes tides, due to the difference between the Moon's gravitational pull and the centrifugal force.

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High Tide

The highest point reached by the tide.

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Low Tide

The lowest point reached by the tide.

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Ebb Tide

The time between high tide and low tide when the water level is falling.

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Flood Tide

The time between low tide and high tide when the water level is rising.

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Spring Tides

Tides that occur when the sun, moon, and Earth are aligned. Resulting in larger tidal differences.

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Neap Tides

Tides that occur when the sun and moon are at right angles to each other. Resulting in smaller tidal differences.

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Diurnal Tide

A tidal pattern with one high tide and one low tide each day.

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Mixed Tides

A tidal pattern with two high tides and two low tides each day, with varying heights.

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Ocean Gyres

Large circular currents found in all ocean basins. They are formed due to the accumulation of water and water flow around these accumulations.

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Current Drift

The speed at which ocean currents move. It is measured in knots.

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Current Strength

Strength of an ocean current refers to its speed. A faster current is considered stronger.

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Current Depth & Strength

Ocean currents are generally strongest near the surface and weaken with increasing depth.

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Warm Ocean Currents

Warm currents bring warm water to cold water regions. They are typically found on the east coasts of continents in low to middle latitudes.

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Cold Ocean Currents

Cold currents bring cold water to warm water regions. They are usually found on the west coasts of continents in high latitudes.

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Influences on Major Ocean Currents

Major ocean currents are influenced by prevailing winds and the Coriolis force. This creates a pattern that mirrors the Earth's atmospheric circulation.

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Oceanic & Atmospheric Circulation

Oceanic circulation patterns share similarities with atmospheric circulation, particularly in the middle latitudes. This is due to the influence of prevailing winds and the Coriolis effect.

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Coriolis Effect on Ocean Currents

The rotation of the Earth causes moving objects (like ocean currents) to deflect to the right in the Northern Hemisphere and to the left in the Southern Hemisphere.

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Cyclonic Wind Patterns and Ocean Currents

Ocean currents are caused by wind patterns, and in areas where the wind blows in a circular direction, ocean currents will follow that pattern.

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Ocean Currents and Heat Transport

Ocean currents move warm water from the tropics towards the poles and cold water from the poles towards the tropics, helping to regulate global temperatures.

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Influence of Warm Currents on Western Coasts

The warm currents flowing along the western coasts of continents in tropical and subtropical latitudes cause a distinct marine climate with cool summers and mild winters.

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Influence of Cool Currents on Western Coasts

The cool currents flowing along the western coasts of continents in tropical and subtropical latitudes result in arid conditions and a lack of rainfall.

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Ocean Currents and Marine Ecosystems

Ocean currents transport heat and nutrients, which can affect the distribution of marine life and impact fisheries.

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Ocean Currents and Global Climate

The circulation of ocean currents, especially in the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian Oceans, plays a crucial role in global climate patterns and weather systems.

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Monsoon Winds and Ocean Currents

The influence of monsoonal winds can significantly affect the direction and strength of ocean currents in certain regions.

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Influence of prevailing winds on currents

The movement of ocean currents is primarily influenced by the prevailing winds, which exert a force on the water's surface. This force causes the water to move in the same direction as the wind, as depicted in Figure 13.3.

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Importance of mixing zones

The meeting of warm and cold currents creates a mixing zone that, due to the temperature differences and nutrient upwelling leads to high oxygen levels and abundant plankton, attracting large fish populations.

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Upwelling and Downwelling

The cyclical, vertical movement of ocean water, driven by temperature differences and salinity. It's a key factor in nutrient distribution.

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Perihelion

The point in Earth's orbit when it's closest to the Sun.

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Study Notes

Ocean Water Movements

  • Ocean water is a highly dynamic and ever-changing entity, influenced by multiple factors such as temperature, which affects water density, and salinity, that measures the concentration of dissolved salts. These elements work together to create variations in water density, leading to complex interactions. Additionally, external forces play a significant role in these movements; for instance, the gravitational interactions of the sun and moon cause notable effects on ocean water, particularly in relation to tides.
  • Horizontal motion encompasses both ocean currents and waves. Ocean currents are large-scale flows of water that move through the ocean basins, driven primarily by wind patterns, the Earth's rotation, and variations in water temperature and salinity. Meanwhile, waves are the result of energy transferring through the water surface, shaped predominantly by the wind.
  • Vertical motion manifests in tides, which are the regular rise and fall of sea levels caused by the gravitational pull exerted by the sun and moon. This pull creates bulges in the ocean's surface, leading to high and low tides experienced in coastal areas.
  • Upwelling is an important phenomenon in which cold, nutrient-rich water rises from the depths of the ocean, replacing warmer surface water that gets displaced. This process is vital for marine ecosystems, as it brings essential nutrients to the surface, supporting the growth of phytoplankton and, subsequently, the entire food web.

Waves

  • Waves are a manifestation of energy rather than the movement of water itself, propagating across the sea surface over great distances. The actual water particles exhibit a circular motion as the waves travel, creating a pattern that encompasses both upward and downward movement.

  • As waves approach the shore and the water becomes shallower, their circular motion distorts, leading to the characteristic breaking of waves, which is a fundamental aspect of coastal dynamics and beach erosion processes.

  • The energy that fuels wave formation primarily originates from wind. As wind blows across the ocean's surface, it creates friction that transfers energy to the water, forming ripples that can grow into larger waves under favorable conditions.

  • Wave characteristics, including height, length, and frequency, can vary significantly based on numerous factors such as wind speed, wind duration, and fetch, which is the distance over which the wind blows across the water.

  • Wave size increases with moving distances and absorbing wind energy.

  • Waves break when water depth is less than half the wavelength.

  • Steep waves are young; steady waves travel farther.

  • Wave height depends on wind strength, duration, and fetch (area over which wind blows).

  • Crest: highest point; Trough: lowest point

  • Wave Height: vertical distance between crest and trough.

  • Wave Amplitude: half of the wave height.

  • Wave Period: time between successive crests or troughs.

  • Wavelength: horizontal distance between successive crests.

  • Wave Speed: rate at which the wave travels.

Tides

  • Tides are the periodic rise and fall of sea level, mainly due to the gravitational pull of the sun and moon.
  • Spring Tides: occur when sun, moon, and earth align, resulting in higher high tides and lower low tides.
  • Neap Tides: occur when sun and moon are at right angles to earth, resulting in moderate tide heights.
  • Semi-diurnal Tides: two high tides and two low tides daily, roughly equal heights.
  • Diurnal Tide: one high tide and one low tide daily, roughly equal heights.
  • Mixed Tide: varying heights of high and low tides daily.
  • Tidal bulges: caused by gravitational pull.
  • Centrifugal force: counter to gravity, creates tidal bulge on opposite side.
  • Tidal Currents: movement of water in bays and estuaries.

Ocean Currents

  • Ocean currents: continuous flow of large amounts of water in specific directions.
  • Driven by: solar heating, wind, gravity, and Coriolis effect (deflection right in Northern Hemisphere, left in Southern Hemisphere).
  • Surface Currents: upper 400m; driven by wind.
  • Deep Water Currents: lower levels, density differences (temp and salinity).
  • Warm Currents: carry warm water to cooler areas (e.g., Gulf Stream).
  • Cold Currents : carry cold water to warmer areas (e.g., Humboldt Current).
  • Gyres: large circular ocean currents.
  • Currents affect: coastal climates, marine life, and navigation.

Exercises (Multiple Choice/Short Answer)

  • Upward/downward movement of water is called a tide.
  • Spring tides are caused by gravitational alignment of the sun, moon, and Earth.
  • The distance between the moon and Earth is closest during the perigee.
  • The Earth reaches its perihelion in October,
  • The study of waves involves observing wave characteristics and the influence of external forces.
  • Tides affect navigation because tides cause changes in water level.
  • Ocean currents affect coastal temperatures by transporting warm or cold water.

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Ocean Water Movements PDF

Description

Explore the fascinating dynamics of ocean water movements and the science behind waves. This quiz covers topics such as ocean currents, tides, and the influence of wind on wave energy. Test your understanding of key concepts related to the behavior of ocean water and waves.

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