Milday Chapter 11: Hair and Scalp Properties
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All professional hair services must be based on a thorough understanding of the growth, ____ , and composition of hair.

structure

Why is it important for a cosmetologist to study and understand the properties of the hair and scalp?

  1. You need to know how and why our hair grows and how and why it falls out in order to be able to differentiate between normal and abnormal hair loss. 2) Knowing what creates natural hair color and texture is a vital part of being able to offer a variety of chemical services to clients. 3) Spotting an unhealthy scalp condition that could harbor a communicable disease or cause permanent hair loss helps in caring for clients' scalp and hair well-being.

_______ is the scientific study of hair and its diseases and care.

trichology

What are the two parts of a mature strand of human hair?

<p>hair root and hair shaft</p> Signup and view all the answers

The ___ is located below the surface of the epidermis.

<p>hair root</p> Signup and view all the answers

The _____ is the portion of the hair that projects above the epidermis.

<p>hair shaft</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the small cone-shaped elevation located at the base of the hair follicle?

<p>dermal papilla</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the tube-like depression or pocket in the skin or scalp that contains the hair root?

<p>hair follicle</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the name of the small, involuntary muscle in the base of the hair follicle?

<p>arrector pili muscle</p> Signup and view all the answers

What are the oil glands in the skin that are connected to the hair follicles called?

<p>sebaceous glands</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the thickened, club-shaped structure that forms the lower part of the root?

<p>hair bulb</p> Signup and view all the answers

Hair follicles are distributed all over the body, with the exception of:

<p>Both A and B</p> Signup and view all the answers

More than one hair will never grow from a single follicle.

<p>False</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which part of the hair root contains blood and nerve supply that provides the nutrients needed for hair growth?

<p>dermal papilla</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which muscle causes goosebumps when it contracts due to strong emotions or a cold sensation?

<p>arrector pili muscle</p> Signup and view all the answers

The sebaceous glands secrete a fatty or oily substance called ____ which lubricates the skin.

<p>sebum</p> Signup and view all the answers

What are the three main layers of the hair shaft?

<ol> <li>Cortex 2) Hair cuticle 3) Medulla</li> </ol> Signup and view all the answers

The outermost layer of the hair is the _____.

<p>cuticle</p> Signup and view all the answers

Describe the hair cuticle layer.

<p>The cuticle layer provides a barrier that protects the inner structure of the hair as it lies tightly against the cortex, creating shiny, silky smooth hair.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Describe what a healthy cuticle layer protects.

<p>A healthy cuticle layer protects the hair from penetration and prevents damage to hair fibers.</p> Signup and view all the answers

If you hold the end of a single strand of hair in one hand and then grasp it between the thumb and forefinger of the other hand and move them down the hair shaft, the hair will feel ____.

<p>rough</p> Signup and view all the answers

Why must oxidation hair colors, permanent waving solutions, and chemical hair relaxers have an alkaline pH?

<p>To penetrate the cuticle layer, because a high pH swells the cuticle and causes it to lift and expose the cortex.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which layer is the cortex?

<p>middle layer</p> Signup and view all the answers

What percentage of the total weight of hair comes from the cortex?

<p>90%</p> Signup and view all the answers

Name three different hair properties for which the cortex is responsible.

<ol> <li>Weight of the hair 2) Elasticity of the hair 3) Natural color of the hair</li> </ol> Signup and view all the answers

In what layer of the hair do changes involving oxidation hair color, wet setting, thermal styling, perm waving and chemical hair relaxing take place?

<p>the cortex</p> Signup and view all the answers

The _______ is the innermost layer of the hair and is composed of round cells.

<p>medulla</p> Signup and view all the answers

All hair has three layers of the hair shaft.

<p>False</p> Signup and view all the answers

All male beard hair contains a medulla.

<p>True</p> Signup and view all the answers

The medulla is involved in salon services.

<p>False</p> Signup and view all the answers

Hair is composed of ______ that grows from cells originating with the hair follicle.

<p>protein</p> Signup and view all the answers

The maturation of these cells is a process called ______.

<p>keratinization</p> Signup and view all the answers

Hair is a living thing.

<p>True</p> Signup and view all the answers

Why is hair a living thing?

<p>Hair is made up of living cells and goes through a 'life cycle' where it grows until it dies.</p> Signup and view all the answers

List the main elements that make up human hair and their percentage in normal hair.

<p>a) carbon 51% b) oxygen 21% c) hydrogen 6% d) nitrogen 17% e) sulfur 5%</p> Signup and view all the answers

Together, the five elements that make up human hair are referred to as the _____ elements.

<p>COHNS</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the strong, chemical bond that joins amino acids?

<p>peptide bond</p> Signup and view all the answers

What are units that are joined together and makeup proteins?

<p>amino acids</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a long chain of amino acids linked by peptide bonds?

<p>polypeptide chain</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the spiral shape of a coiled protein called?

<p>helix</p> Signup and view all the answers

Polypeptide chains are cross-linked like the rungs on a ladder by three different types of side bonds called:

<p>hydrogen bonds, salt bonds, disulfide bonds</p> Signup and view all the answers

A ________ bond is a weak, physical, cross-link side bond that is easily broken by water or heat; these bonds reform when the hair ____.

<p>hydrogen, dries</p> Signup and view all the answers

Weak, physical, cross-linked side bonds between adjacent polypeptide chains are ____ bonds.

<p>salt</p> Signup and view all the answers

A ________ bond is a strong, chemical side bond that joins the sulfur atoms of two neighboring cysteine amino acids to create one cystine.

<p>disulfide</p> Signup and view all the answers

How are the hair's strong chemical side bonds broken?

<p>Disulfide bonds are broken by permanent waves and chemical hair relaxers that alter the shape of hair.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What are the tiny grains of pigment in the cortex that give natural color to the hair?

<p>melanin</p> Signup and view all the answers

Describe the two different types of melanin.

<ol> <li>eumelanin- natural dark brown/black pigment 2) pheomelanin- lighter pigment which provides natural red to ginger to blonde tones.</li> </ol> Signup and view all the answers

How is gray hair different from other hair colors?

<p>Gray hair contains only a few scattered melanin granules; white hair does not contain any melanin.</p> Signup and view all the answers

The ________ of the hair refers to the shape of the hair strand and is described as ____ , _____ , _____ , or _____.

<p>texture, straight, wavy, curly, or extremely curly</p> Signup and view all the answers

Natural wave patterns are the result of _____.

<p>genetics</p> Signup and view all the answers

Asians and Native Americans tend to have extremely ____ hair, while African Americans tend to have _____ hair.

<p>straight, extremely curly</p> Signup and view all the answers

In extremely curly hair, cross sections appear ______ and vary in shape and thickness along their length.

<p>flattened</p> Signup and view all the answers

The shape of a cross-section of hair always relates to the amount of curl in the hair.

<p>True</p> Signup and view all the answers

Extremely curly hair often has _____ elasticity.

<p>low</p> Signup and view all the answers

The two main types of hair found on the body are:

<p>Vellus hair and Terminal hair</p> Signup and view all the answers

Describe vellus hair.

<p>Short, fine, unpigmented, downy hair that appears on the body.</p> Signup and view all the answers

On adults, vellus hair is usually found on the _____.

<p>forehead, eyelids, bald scalp, and almost every place on the body except for the palms of the hands and soles of the feet.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Men retain ____ vellus hair than women.

<p>less</p> Signup and view all the answers

Describe terminal hair.

<p>Long, coarse, pigmented hair.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Terminal hair is found where?

<p>Found on the scalp, legs, arms, and bodies.</p> Signup and view all the answers

All hair follicles are capable of producing either vellus or terminal hair, depending on genetics, age, and hormones.

<p>True</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the growth phase of new hair?

<p>anagen phase</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the transition period between the growth and resting phases?

<p>catagen</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the rest phase?

<p>telogen</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the average growth of healthy scalp hair per month?

<p>1/2 inch (1.25 cm)</p> Signup and view all the answers

When does hair tend to grow the most rapidly?

<p>between the ages of 15-30</p> Signup and view all the answers

What percentage of scalp hair is in the catagen phase at any one time?

<p>less than 1 percent</p> Signup and view all the answers

What percentage of scalp hair is in the telogen phase at any one time?

<p>a little less than 10 percent</p> Signup and view all the answers

How long does the anagen phase generally last?

<p>3-5 years, sometimes 10 years</p> Signup and view all the answers

Shaving, clipping, cutting the hair makes it grow back faster, darker, and coarser.

<p>False</p> Signup and view all the answers

Scalp massage increases hair growth.

<p>False</p> Signup and view all the answers

Gray hair is coarser and more resistant than pigmented hair.

<p>False</p> Signup and view all the answers

A cross-section of hair can be almost any shape and its shape does not necessarily relate to the amount of curl or shape of the follicle.

<p>True</p> Signup and view all the answers

Under normal circumstances, everyone loses some hair every day.

<p>True</p> Signup and view all the answers

According to recent measurements, the average rate of hair loss is _____ hairs per day.

<p>35-40</p> Signup and view all the answers

Describe how bald and balding men are perceived by others.

<p>Less physically attractive, less assertive, less successful, less personally likable, and older by about 5 years.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Abnormal hair loss is not as common for women as in men, but it can be very traumatic for women who experience it.

<p>True</p> Signup and view all the answers

Abnormal hair loss is called _____

<p>alopecia</p> Signup and view all the answers

_____ is the result of genetics, age, or hormonal change that causes terminal hair to ______.

<p>androgenic alopecia, miniaturize</p> Signup and view all the answers

In men, androgenic alopecia is known as _____ and usually progresses to the familiar horseshoe-shaped fringe of hair.

<p>male pattern baldness</p> Signup and view all the answers

By the age of 35, 40% of men and women show some degree of _____.

<p>hair loss</p> Signup and view all the answers

How many people does androgenic alopecia affect in the US?

<p>millions of people</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is alopecia areata?

<p>It is an autoimmune disorder that causes the affected hair follicles to be mistakenly attacked by a person's own immune system.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Alopecia areata that progresses to total scalp hair loss is called _____. When it results in complete body hair loss it is called _____.

<p>alopecia totalis, alopecia universalis</p> Signup and view all the answers

Jane, a client at your salon, gave birth to her first baby three months ago. When she comes in for a service, she complains that her hair seems to be shedding. The condition is called _______. You reassure Jane that her hair growth cycle should eventually return to ____ within about ____ after the baby is delivered.

<p>postpartum alopecia; normal; one year</p> Signup and view all the answers

What are the only two products that have been proven to stimulate hair growth and are approved by the FDA for sale in the US?

<p>minoxidil and finasteride</p> Signup and view all the answers

A topical medication that is put on the scalp twice a day and is sold over the counter as a non-prescription drug is ____; the most commonly known product that contains this drug is called Rogaine.

<p>minoxidil</p> Signup and view all the answers

_______ is an oral prescription medication for men only and is more effective and convenient than its non-prescription counterpart.

<p>finasteride</p> Signup and view all the answers

Why are pregnant women warned against having any contact with the oral prescription medication used to treat hair loss in men?

<p>It has the strong potential to cause birth defects and complications.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Describe the most common permanent treatment for hair loss.

<p>A hair transplant is the most common; removing a small section of hair including the follicle, papilla, and hair bulb and moving it to a less hairy section.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What non-medical options can a hairstylist offer to counter hair loss?

<p>Wigs, toupees, hair weaving, and hair extensions.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Summarize the different possible causes of hair loss.

<p>Different types of hair loss can be attributed to autoimmune disorders, post-birth/pregnancy, stress, anxiety, aging, and genetics.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a condition of abnormal hair growth?

<p>Hypertrichosis or hirsuties</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the technical term for gray hair?

<p>canities</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the technical term for knotted hair?

<p>trichorrhexis nodosa</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the technical term for beaded hair?

<p>monilethrix</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the technical term for brittle hair?

<p>fragilitas crinium</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a characteristic of ringed hair?

<p>Characterized by alternating bands of gray and pigmented hair.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the technical term for split ends?

<p>trichoptilosis</p> Signup and view all the answers

There are two types of canities. They are _____ canities and _____ canities.

<p>congenital, acquired</p> Signup and view all the answers

Study Notes

Understanding Hair and Scalp Properties

  • Professional hair services require a deep knowledge of hair growth, structure, and composition.
  • A thorough understanding of hair properties helps differentiate between normal and abnormal hair loss.
  • Knowledge about natural hair color and texture is essential for offering various chemical services to clients.
  • Identifying unhealthy scalp conditions aids in client care and prevents permanent hair loss.

Trichology

  • Trichology is the scientific study of hair and its diseases.
  • The term originates from the Greek words "trichos" (hair) and "ology" (study of).

Hair Structure

  • A mature human hair strand consists of two main parts: the hair root and the hair shaft.
  • The hair root is located below the epidermis, while the hair shaft extends above it.
  • The dermal papilla, a small cone-shaped elevation, fits into the hair bulb at the base of the hair follicle.
  • Hair follicles are pockets in the skin or scalp that contain the hair root, while the arrector pili muscle is an involuntary muscle at the hair follicle's base.
  • Sebaceous glands secrete sebum, an oily substance that lubricates the skin.

Hair Layers

  • Hair consists of three main layers: cortex, cuticle, and medulla.
  • The cuticle is the outermost layer, providing protection and contributing to hair's shine.
  • The cortex, making up about 90% of hair’s weight, determines elasticity, natural color, and the effects of chemical treatments.
  • The innermost layer, the medulla, comprises round cells and varies among individuals.

Hair Composition and Growth

  • Hair is primarily composed of protein, with keratinization being the maturation process of hair cells.
  • Major elements in hair include carbon (51%), oxygen (21%), hydrogen (6%), nitrogen (17%), and sulfur (5%), collectively known as the COHNS elements.
  • Hair grows from the anagen phase, which typically lasts 3-5 years, and is followed by catagen (transition) and telogen (resting) phases.

Hair Loss

  • Abnormal hair loss, or alopecia, can result from genetics, hormonal changes, or autoimmune disorders like alopecia areata.
  • Androgenic alopecia, or male pattern baldness, affects millions, with 40% of people showing some hair loss by age 35.
  • Postpartum alopecia may occur after childbirth, generally resolving within a year.

Treatments and Interventions

  • FDA-approved products for hair growth include minoxidil (topical) and finasteride (oral prescription for men), with careful precautions for pregnant women.
  • Non-medical options to address hair loss include wigs, toupees, hair weaving, and extensions.

Hair Anomalies and Conditions

  • Conditions like hypertrichosis (abnormal hair growth) and canities (gray hair) are noted.
  • Trichorrhexis nodosa refers to knotted hair, while trichoptilosis describes split ends.
  • Ringed hair indicates alternating bands of gray and pigmented hair, while monilethrix is characterized by beaded hair.

Hair Types

  • Two types of body hair exist: vellus (short, fine, and unpigmented) and terminal (long, coarse, and pigmented).
  • Hair texture and shape are influenced by genetics, with varying degrees of curl across different ethnicities.

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Description

Test your knowledge on the properties of hair and scalp from Milday Chapter 11. This quiz covers essential concepts such as hair growth, structure, and composition that every cosmetologist should understand. Prepare yourself for a deeper understanding of these critical aspects of cosmetology.

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