Milady Cima Chapter 15 Flashcards

Chemical Texture Services

• Hair treatments inducing a chemical change to modify the natural wave pattern.

Amino Acids

• Organic compounds consisting of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur, essential for protein formation.

Peptide Bonds

• Chemical connections linking amino acids in long, continuous polypeptide chains.

Polypeptide Chains

• Extensive sequences of amino acids connected by peptide bonds.

Keratin Proteins

• Composed of long, coiled polypeptide chains, integral to hair structure.

Side Bonds

• Include disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds, responsible for stabilizing polypeptide chains.

Disulfide Bonds

• Robust chemical links formed between sulfur atoms in protein chains.

Hydrogen Bonds

• Weaker physical links that can be broken by water or heat, allowing hair to reform when dried or cooled.

Permanent Waving

• A two-step process combining physical wrapping on rods and chemical treatment for curl formation.

Thioglycolic Acid

• The primary reducing agent found in permanent wave solutions.

Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG)

• Key active ingredient in alkaline permanent waves, facilitating hair texture modification.

Alkaline Waves

• Characterized by a pH range of 9.0 to 9.6, these waves rely on ATG, processing at room temperature without heat.

Glyceryl Monothioglycolate (GMTG)

• Main active component in true acid-balanced waving lotions.

True Acid Waves

• Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0, require heat, and result in less firm curls compared to alkaline waves.

Acid-Balanced Waves

• Permanent waves with a neutral pH of 7.0, facilitating faster processing and firmer curls without extra heat.

Exothermic Waves

• Generate heat through a chemical reaction, enhancing the speed of the waving process.

Endothermic Waves

• Perms activated by an external heat source.

Ammonia-Free Waves

• Utilize a non-volatile ingredient, minimizing odor during the perming process.

Thio-Free Waves

• Permanent waves utilizing alternatives to ATG, including cysteamine or mercaptamine.

Low-pH Waves

• Employ sulfates and bisulfites instead of ATG and feature a lower pH for gentler processing.

Thio Neutralization

• Halts a permanent wave solution while reconstructing the hair into its new curly shape.

Perm Rods

• Various designs including concave rods (smaller center diameter) and straight rods (equal diameter).

Soft Bender Rods

• Flexible, uniform tools used in perming.

Loop Rod

• Circular perm tool allowing for a continuous wrapping process.

End Papers

• Also called end wraps, essential for controlling hair ends during perming.

Wrap Techniques

• Includes double flat, single flat, and bookend wraps to secure hair during the perming process.

Base Sections

• Subdivisions of hair into panels for uniform wrapping.

Base Control

• Determines rod positioning relative to the base section, influencing curl formation.

Perm Wrapping Styles

• Croquignole, spiral, double-rod and basic wraps are different methods employed for styling.

Chemical Hair Relaxing

• Adjusts curly hair structure to achieve a straighter appearance.

Thio Relaxers

• Utilize higher concentrations of ATG for more pronounced hair straightening effects.

Viscosity

• Refers to the thickness of a liquid, impacting flow during application.

Lanthionization

• The conversion of disulfide bonds into lanthionine bonds by hydroxide relaxers, permanently straightening hair.

Hydroxide Relaxers

• Strong alkalis with pH over 13, effectively used for straightening textured hair.

Metal Hydroxide Relaxers

• Compounds formed from metals combined with oxygen and hydrogen, used in hair relaxation processes.

Base Cream

• Protective oil cream applied to skin and scalp prior to hair relaxing.

Base vs. No-Base Relaxers

• Base relaxers require protective cream application, while no-base relaxers do not.

Hydroxide Neutralization

• Acid-alkali reaction neutralizing leftover alkaline residues post-relaxer application.

Normalizing Lotions

• Acidic conditioners restoring hair's natural pH following hydroxide relaxers.

Soft Curl Permanent

• Thio-based service creating loose and larger curls and waves from tighter textures.