Chemical Texture Services in Hair Care
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Texture services can be used to ________________ straight hair, ___________________ overly curly hair, or ____________________ tightly coiled hair.

curl, straighten, soften

List the reasons a cosmetologist who performs chemical texture services should study and have a basic understanding of chemical texture services.

  • Offer more services (correct)
  • Maximize profitability (correct)
  • Build trust with clients (correct)
  • Prevent hair damage (correct)

    • _______________________________ services are hair services that cause a chemical change within the hair's natural wave and curl pattern.

    chemical texture

    Chemical texture services include:

    <p>Permanent waving</p> Signup and view all the answers

    The ___________________ layer is the tough exterior layer of the hair. It surrounds the inner layers and _____________________ the hair from damage.

    <p>cuticle, protects</p> Signup and view all the answers

    True or False: The cuticle is directly involved in the texture or movement of the hair.

    <p>False</p> Signup and view all the answers

    The ___________________ is the middle layer of the hair, located directly beneath the ___________________ layer.

    <p>cortex, cuticle</p> Signup and view all the answers

    The cortex is responsible for the incredible ____________________ and _________________________ of human hair.

    <p>strength, elasticity</p> Signup and view all the answers

    _____________________ the side bonds of the ___________________ makes it possible to change the natural wave pattern of the hair.

    <p>breaking, cortex</p> Signup and view all the answers

    The _____________________ is often called the pith or core of the hair and does not play a role in chemical texture services.

    <p>medulla</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Fine hair may not contain which of the following parts?

    <p>Medulla</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What does the term pH scale measure?

    <p>The acidity and alkalinity of a substance.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    An acidic substance has a pH ________________________.

    <p>below 7</p> Signup and view all the answers

    An alkaline substance has a pH _______________________?

    <p>above 7</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the natural pH of hair?

    <p>between 4.5 and 5.5</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Explain what chemical solutions do to change the hair's natural curl pattern.

    <p>Raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state, which opens the cuticle layer allowing the solution to reconstruct the hair.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    True or False: Coarse, resistant hair with a strong, compact cuticle layer requires a highly acidic chemical solution.

    <p>False</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Amino Acids are compounds made up of ____________________.

    <p>carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Peptide Bonds are _______________________ that join amino acids together end-to-end in long chains.

    <p>end bonds</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Polypeptide Bonds are long chains of _____________________ joined together by peptide bonds.

    <p>amino acids</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Keratin Proteins are long, coiled _______________________ bonds.

    <p>polypeptide</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Side Bonds are ____________________ that are cross-linked polypeptide chains.

    <p>chemical bonds</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Disulfide Bonds are chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in ______________________.

    <p>two adjacent protein chains are joined together</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Salt Bonds are relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between ____________________.

    <p>negative and positive electrical charges</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Hydrogen Bonds are weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between ____________________.

    <p>opposite electrical charges</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which type of bond is the strongest of the three side bonds?

    <p>Disulfide Bonds</p> Signup and view all the answers

    How are salt bonds broken?

    <p>Changes in pH.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What are the two steps of the permanent wave process?

    <ol> <li>Hair undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods. 2) Hair undergoes a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer.</li> </ol> Signup and view all the answers

    True or False: It is important to do an elasticity test before perming the hair.

    <p>True</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What do alkaline permanent waving solutions do?

    <p>Soften and swell the hair, open the cuticle which permits the solution to penetrate the cortex.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Once the waving solution is in the cortex, what occurs?

    <p>The solution breaks the disulfide bonds through reduction.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a reduction reaction?

    <p>The addition of hydrogen or the removal of oxygen.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a reduction reaction in permanent waving?

    <p>Due to the addition of hydrogen.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Explain the four steps in the chemical process of permanent waving.

    <ol> <li>Disulfide bond joins the sulfur atoms in two adjacent polypeptide chains. 2) Solution breaks a disulfide bond by adding a hydrogen atom to each of its sulfur atoms. 3) Sulfur atoms attach to the hydrogen atom from the permanent waving solution, breaking their attachment. 4) Once the bond is broken, the chains can form into their new curled shape.</li> </ol> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the reducing agent used in permanent waving solutions?

    <p>Thio.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    ________________________________ is the most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions.

    <p>Thioglycolic acid</p> Signup and view all the answers

    The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by ___________________________________________.

    <p>The concentration of thio.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Why is ammonia added to the thioglycolic acid product?

    <p>Needed as an alkalizing agent, because acids do not swell the hair nor penetrate into the cortex.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    The addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces a new chemical called ____________________________________ which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.

    <p>Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which type of hair will need a more alkaline solution to achieve permanent waving?

    <p>Coarse hair with a strong, resistant cuticle layer.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Another name for alkaline waves is _______________________.

    <p>Cold waves</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Alkaline waves have a pH between ______________________.

    <p>9.0 and 9.6</p> Signup and view all the answers

    ____________________________________ is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions.

    <p>Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What are the three separate components of all acid waves?

    <ol> <li>Permanent waving solution 2) Activator 3) Solution.</li> </ol> Signup and view all the answers

    The first ___________________ were introduced in the early 1970s and have a pH between _________________________. They require heat to process.

    <p>True acid waves, 4.5 and 7.0</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Most of the acid waves found in today's salons have a pH between:

    <p>7.8 and 8.2</p> Signup and view all the answers

    ______________________________ process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.

    <p>Acid-balanced waves</p> Signup and view all the answers

    ________________________ create a chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up the processing.

    <p>Exothermic waves</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What are the three components of exothermic waves?

    <ol> <li>Permanent waving solution 2) Activator 3) Neutralizer.</li> </ol> Signup and view all the answers

    When creating exothermic waves, mixing an oxidizer with permanent waving solution causes ____________________.

    <p>A rapid release of heat and an increase in the temperature of the solution.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    ____________________________ are activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer.

    <p>Endothermic waves</p> Signup and view all the answers

    _________________________________ use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use.

    <p>Ammonia-free waves</p> Signup and view all the answers

    True or False: Ammonia-free waves will not damage hair, even if used incorrectly.

    <p>False</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Where can information about the ingredients, strength, and pH of permanent wave solutions be found?

    <p>Manufacturer instructions and safety data sheet.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    ___________________________ use an ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine, as the primary reducing agent.

    <p>Thio-free waves</p> Signup and view all the answers

    The use of sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites present an alternative to ATG known as _________________________.

    <p>Low-pH waves</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Sulfite permanents are usually marketed as _______________________________________.

    <p>Body waves or alternative waves</p> Signup and view all the answers

    The strength of any permanent wave is based on the concentration of its ___________________________.

    <p>Reducing agent.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    The amount of processing during a permanent wave is determined by the _____________________ of the permanent waving solution.

    <p>Strength</p> Signup and view all the answers

    In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution __________________________.

    <p>Penetrates the hair.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What does the additional processing time allow?

    <p>Polypeptide chains to shift into their new configuration.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    When does overprocessing usually occur?

    <p>Within the first 5 to 10 minutes of the service.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    True or False: Resistant hair may not become completely saturated hair with just one application of waving solution.

    <p>True</p> Signup and view all the answers

    True or False: To achieve curlier hair, always process it longer.

    <p>False</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What occurs if the hair is underprocessed?

    <p>The hair will not be sufficiently softened and will not hold the desired curl.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    ___________________________ stops the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its new curly form.

    <p>Thio neutralization</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What are the two important functions of neutralization?

    <ol> <li>Any solution that remains in the hair is deactivated. 2) Disulfide bonds that were broken by the solution are rebuilt.</li> </ol> Signup and view all the answers

    The most common neutralizer is _________________________.

    <p>Hydrogen peroxide</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Oxidate reactions can __________________________ hair color, especially at an alkaline pH.

    <p>Also lighten</p> Signup and view all the answers

    When rinsing perm solution from the hair, how long should you rinse?

    <p>At least 5 minutes.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    If the hair is insufficiently blotted, what will occur?

    <p>Excess water in the hair will reduce the effectiveness of the neutralizer.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    True or False: When rinsing the hair, you should always use hot water.

    <p>False</p> Signup and view all the answers

    True or False: When rinsing the hair, use a gentle stream of water.

    <p>True</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Always ______________ the hair after the recommended rinsing time.

    <p>smell</p> Signup and view all the answers

    How should you towel-blot the hair after rinsing?

    <p>Gently with a dry towel.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Always adjust any rods that have become ___________________________________ prior to applying the neutralizer.

    <p>Loose or drifted out of alignment.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    ______________________________ breaks disulfide bonds by adding hydrogen. ______________________________ rebuilds the disulfide bonds by removing the hydrogen that was added by the permanent waving solution.

    <p>Permanent waving solution, Thio neutralization</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What information do you obtain from preliminary test curls?

    <p>All of the above</p> Signup and view all the answers

    _________________ are the most common type of perm rod. They have a smaller _____________________ in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends.

    <p>Concave rods, diameter</p> Signup and view all the answers

    __________________________ are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area.

    <p>Straight rods</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Concave rods produce a ___________________________ in the center, and a _______________________ on either side of the strand.

    <p>Tighter curl, looser curl</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Straight rods produce a(n) __________________________ along the entire width of the strand.

    <p>Uniform curl</p> Signup and view all the answers

    ________________________________ are usually about 12 inches (30.5 cm) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod.

    <p>Soft bender rods</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What allows these soft foam rods to bend into almost any shape?

    <p>A flexible wire that is inside.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    The _____________________ or _____________________ rod is usually about 12 inches (30.5 cm) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod.

    <p>Loop, circle</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What does perming only the base of the hair achieve?

    <p>Create volume and lift without curl.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    ______________________ are thin, absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on the perm rods.

    <p>End papers</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is another name for end papers?

    <p>End wraps</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Why is it important to extend end papers beyond the ends of the hair?

    <p>To keep them smooth and straight and prevent fishhooks.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    List the three most common end paper techniques and explain each.

    <p>All of the above</p> Signup and view all the answers

    All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into _____________________.

    <p>Panels.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    How do you determine the size, shape, and direction of panels?

    <p>Based on the wrapping pattern and type and size of the rod being used.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Each panel is divided into subsections called _________________________.

    <p>Base sections.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    __________________________________ refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section, and it is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.

    <p>Base placement</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Rods can be wrapped in three ways as follows:

    <p>Base, half off base, off base.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    For on-base placement, the hair is wrapped ________________________ beyond perpendicular to its base section.

    <p>45 degrees.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Half off-base placement refers to wrapping the hair at an angle of _______________________ or perpendicular to its base section.

    <p>90 degrees.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Half off-base placement ___________________ stress and tension on the hair.

    <p>Minimizes.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Off-base placement refers to wrapping the hair at ____________________ below the center of the base section.

    <p>45 degrees.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which placement creates the least amount of volume and results in curl patterns that begin farthest away from the scalp?

    <p>Off-base placement</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Study Notes

    Chemical Texture Services

    • Texture services alter the natural state of hair: they can curl, straighten, or soften hair.
    • Knowledge of chemical texture services aids in providing clients with versatile styling options and builds trust.
    • Understanding chemicals in beauty treatments decreases risks of hair damage and enhances stylist confidence.

    Types of Chemical Texture Services

    • Permanent Waving: Introduces waves or curls to hair.
    • Relaxing: Smooths and straightens curl or wave patterns.
    • Curl Re-forming: Loosens overly curly hair and transforms tight curls into looser waves.

    Hair Structure

    • Cuticle: The outer layer of hair that protects inner layers from damage but is not involved in texture or movement.
    • Cortex: The middle layer responsible for hair’s strength and elasticity.
    • Medulla: The core of the hair, not essential for chemical texture services; may be absent in fine hair.

    Hair Chemistry

    • pH Scale: Measures acidity (below 7) and alkalinity (above 7) for hair products.
    • The natural pH of hair ranges from 4.5 to 5.5.
    • Chemical solutions change hair’s structure by raising its pH, which opens the cuticle for effective treatment.

    Bonding Structures in Hair

    • Amino Acids: The building blocks of proteins, containing carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur.
    • Polypeptide and Peptide Bonds: Chains of amino acids linked by peptide bonds.
    • Side Bonds: Include disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that affect hair strength and shape.

    Permanent Wave Process

    • Permanent waves involve physical and chemical changes, requiring wrapping hair on rods and applying waving solutions.
    • Two-step process:
      • Physical change from rod wrapping.
      • Chemical reaction from the permanent waving solution breaking disulfide bonds.

    Chemical Solutions and Agents

    • Thio: The primary reducing agent in permanent waving, specifically thioglycolic acid.
    • Ammonium Thioglycolate: A key ingredient in alkaline permanent waves, updates the solution's alkalinity for better penetration.

    Wave Types and Processing

    • Cold Waves: Alkaline waves with pH 9.0 to 9.6.
    • Acid Waves: Require heat and have lower pH (4.5 to 7.0).
    • Acid-balanced Waves: Process at room temperature, producing firmer curls without additional heat.

    Neutralization

    • Neutralization Process: Stops waving solution action and rebuilds disulfide bonds, primarily using hydrogen peroxide.
    • Overprocessing occurs within 5 to 10 minutes; underprocessed hair fails to hold the desired curl.

    Perm Rods and Techniques

    • Concave Rods: Produce varying curl tightness; tighter in the center, looser on the ends.
    • Straight Rods: Create uniform curls.
    • Soft Bender Rods: Flexible and able to bend into shapes for styling.
    • Decisive panel sectioning is crucial for consistent curl results and volume adjustments.

    Additional Techniques

    • End Papers: Control hair ends during wrapping; techniques include double flat, single flat, and bookend wraps.
    • Proper placement of rods affects curl volume and pattern; techniques are base, half-off base, and off-base placements.
    • Off-base placement creates minimal volume, while on-base placements yield maximum volume.

    Final Considerations

    • Effective rinsing post-chemical treatment is vital for optimal results; careful towel blotting prevents water reducing neutralizer effectiveness.
    • Always gather information from manufacturer instructions to ensure product usage aligns with safety protocols and desired outcomes.

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    Description

    This quiz explores the various types of chemical texture services such as permanent waving, relaxing, and curl re-forming. Gain an understanding of hair structure and chemistry to enhance your skills and ensure the health of your clients' hair. Perfect for beauty students and professionals looking to deepen their knowledge.

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