Podcast
Questions and Answers
Texture services can be used to ________________ straight hair, ___________________ overly curly hair, or ____________________ tightly coiled hair.
Texture services can be used to ________________ straight hair, ___________________ overly curly hair, or ____________________ tightly coiled hair.
curl, straighten, soften
List the reasons a cosmetologist who performs chemical texture services should study and have a basic understanding of chemical texture services.
List the reasons a cosmetologist who performs chemical texture services should study and have a basic understanding of chemical texture services.
- Offer more services (correct)
- Maximize profitability (correct)
- Build trust with clients (correct)
- Prevent hair damage (correct)
_______________________________ services are hair services that cause a chemical change within the hair's natural wave and curl pattern.
_______________________________ services are hair services that cause a chemical change within the hair's natural wave and curl pattern.
chemical texture
Chemical texture services include:
Chemical texture services include:
The ___________________ layer is the tough exterior layer of the hair. It surrounds the inner layers and _____________________ the hair from damage.
The ___________________ layer is the tough exterior layer of the hair. It surrounds the inner layers and _____________________ the hair from damage.
True or False: The cuticle is directly involved in the texture or movement of the hair.
True or False: The cuticle is directly involved in the texture or movement of the hair.
The ___________________ is the middle layer of the hair, located directly beneath the ___________________ layer.
The ___________________ is the middle layer of the hair, located directly beneath the ___________________ layer.
The cortex is responsible for the incredible ____________________ and _________________________ of human hair.
The cortex is responsible for the incredible ____________________ and _________________________ of human hair.
_____________________ the side bonds of the ___________________ makes it possible to change the natural wave pattern of the hair.
_____________________ the side bonds of the ___________________ makes it possible to change the natural wave pattern of the hair.
The _____________________ is often called the pith or core of the hair and does not play a role in chemical texture services.
The _____________________ is often called the pith or core of the hair and does not play a role in chemical texture services.
Fine hair may not contain which of the following parts?
Fine hair may not contain which of the following parts?
What does the term pH scale measure?
What does the term pH scale measure?
An acidic substance has a pH ________________________.
An acidic substance has a pH ________________________.
An alkaline substance has a pH _______________________?
An alkaline substance has a pH _______________________?
What is the natural pH of hair?
What is the natural pH of hair?
Explain what chemical solutions do to change the hair's natural curl pattern.
Explain what chemical solutions do to change the hair's natural curl pattern.
True or False: Coarse, resistant hair with a strong, compact cuticle layer requires a highly acidic chemical solution.
True or False: Coarse, resistant hair with a strong, compact cuticle layer requires a highly acidic chemical solution.
Amino Acids are compounds made up of ____________________.
Amino Acids are compounds made up of ____________________.
Peptide Bonds are _______________________ that join amino acids together end-to-end in long chains.
Peptide Bonds are _______________________ that join amino acids together end-to-end in long chains.
Polypeptide Bonds are long chains of _____________________ joined together by peptide bonds.
Polypeptide Bonds are long chains of _____________________ joined together by peptide bonds.
Keratin Proteins are long, coiled _______________________ bonds.
Keratin Proteins are long, coiled _______________________ bonds.
Side Bonds are ____________________ that are cross-linked polypeptide chains.
Side Bonds are ____________________ that are cross-linked polypeptide chains.
Disulfide Bonds are chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in ______________________.
Disulfide Bonds are chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in ______________________.
Salt Bonds are relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between ____________________.
Salt Bonds are relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between ____________________.
Hydrogen Bonds are weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between ____________________.
Hydrogen Bonds are weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between ____________________.
Which type of bond is the strongest of the three side bonds?
Which type of bond is the strongest of the three side bonds?
How are salt bonds broken?
How are salt bonds broken?
What are the two steps of the permanent wave process?
What are the two steps of the permanent wave process?
True or False: It is important to do an elasticity test before perming the hair.
True or False: It is important to do an elasticity test before perming the hair.
What do alkaline permanent waving solutions do?
What do alkaline permanent waving solutions do?
Once the waving solution is in the cortex, what occurs?
Once the waving solution is in the cortex, what occurs?
What is a reduction reaction?
What is a reduction reaction?
What is a reduction reaction in permanent waving?
What is a reduction reaction in permanent waving?
Explain the four steps in the chemical process of permanent waving.
Explain the four steps in the chemical process of permanent waving.
What is the reducing agent used in permanent waving solutions?
What is the reducing agent used in permanent waving solutions?
________________________________ is the most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions.
________________________________ is the most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions.
The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by ___________________________________________.
The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by ___________________________________________.
Why is ammonia added to the thioglycolic acid product?
Why is ammonia added to the thioglycolic acid product?
The addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces a new chemical called ____________________________________ which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.
The addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces a new chemical called ____________________________________ which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.
Which type of hair will need a more alkaline solution to achieve permanent waving?
Which type of hair will need a more alkaline solution to achieve permanent waving?
Another name for alkaline waves is _______________________.
Another name for alkaline waves is _______________________.
Alkaline waves have a pH between ______________________.
Alkaline waves have a pH between ______________________.
____________________________________ is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions.
____________________________________ is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions.
What are the three separate components of all acid waves?
What are the three separate components of all acid waves?
The first ___________________ were introduced in the early 1970s and have a pH between _________________________. They require heat to process.
The first ___________________ were introduced in the early 1970s and have a pH between _________________________. They require heat to process.
Most of the acid waves found in today's salons have a pH between:
Most of the acid waves found in today's salons have a pH between:
______________________________ process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.
______________________________ process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.
________________________ create a chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up the processing.
________________________ create a chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up the processing.
What are the three components of exothermic waves?
What are the three components of exothermic waves?
When creating exothermic waves, mixing an oxidizer with permanent waving solution causes ____________________.
When creating exothermic waves, mixing an oxidizer with permanent waving solution causes ____________________.
____________________________ are activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer.
____________________________ are activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer.
_________________________________ use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use.
_________________________________ use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use.
True or False: Ammonia-free waves will not damage hair, even if used incorrectly.
True or False: Ammonia-free waves will not damage hair, even if used incorrectly.
Where can information about the ingredients, strength, and pH of permanent wave solutions be found?
Where can information about the ingredients, strength, and pH of permanent wave solutions be found?
___________________________ use an ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine, as the primary reducing agent.
___________________________ use an ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine, as the primary reducing agent.
The use of sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites present an alternative to ATG known as _________________________.
The use of sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites present an alternative to ATG known as _________________________.
Sulfite permanents are usually marketed as _______________________________________.
Sulfite permanents are usually marketed as _______________________________________.
The strength of any permanent wave is based on the concentration of its ___________________________.
The strength of any permanent wave is based on the concentration of its ___________________________.
The amount of processing during a permanent wave is determined by the _____________________ of the permanent waving solution.
The amount of processing during a permanent wave is determined by the _____________________ of the permanent waving solution.
In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution __________________________.
In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution __________________________.
What does the additional processing time allow?
What does the additional processing time allow?
When does overprocessing usually occur?
When does overprocessing usually occur?
True or False: Resistant hair may not become completely saturated hair with just one application of waving solution.
True or False: Resistant hair may not become completely saturated hair with just one application of waving solution.
True or False: To achieve curlier hair, always process it longer.
True or False: To achieve curlier hair, always process it longer.
What occurs if the hair is underprocessed?
What occurs if the hair is underprocessed?
___________________________ stops the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its new curly form.
___________________________ stops the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its new curly form.
What are the two important functions of neutralization?
What are the two important functions of neutralization?
The most common neutralizer is _________________________.
The most common neutralizer is _________________________.
Oxidate reactions can __________________________ hair color, especially at an alkaline pH.
Oxidate reactions can __________________________ hair color, especially at an alkaline pH.
When rinsing perm solution from the hair, how long should you rinse?
When rinsing perm solution from the hair, how long should you rinse?
If the hair is insufficiently blotted, what will occur?
If the hair is insufficiently blotted, what will occur?
True or False: When rinsing the hair, you should always use hot water.
True or False: When rinsing the hair, you should always use hot water.
True or False: When rinsing the hair, use a gentle stream of water.
True or False: When rinsing the hair, use a gentle stream of water.
Always ______________ the hair after the recommended rinsing time.
Always ______________ the hair after the recommended rinsing time.
How should you towel-blot the hair after rinsing?
How should you towel-blot the hair after rinsing?
Always adjust any rods that have become ___________________________________ prior to applying the neutralizer.
Always adjust any rods that have become ___________________________________ prior to applying the neutralizer.
______________________________ breaks disulfide bonds by adding hydrogen. ______________________________ rebuilds the disulfide bonds by removing the hydrogen that was added by the permanent waving solution.
______________________________ breaks disulfide bonds by adding hydrogen. ______________________________ rebuilds the disulfide bonds by removing the hydrogen that was added by the permanent waving solution.
What information do you obtain from preliminary test curls?
What information do you obtain from preliminary test curls?
_________________ are the most common type of perm rod. They have a smaller _____________________ in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends.
_________________ are the most common type of perm rod. They have a smaller _____________________ in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends.
__________________________ are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area.
__________________________ are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area.
Concave rods produce a ___________________________ in the center, and a _______________________ on either side of the strand.
Concave rods produce a ___________________________ in the center, and a _______________________ on either side of the strand.
Straight rods produce a(n) __________________________ along the entire width of the strand.
Straight rods produce a(n) __________________________ along the entire width of the strand.
________________________________ are usually about 12 inches (30.5 cm) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod.
________________________________ are usually about 12 inches (30.5 cm) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod.
What allows these soft foam rods to bend into almost any shape?
What allows these soft foam rods to bend into almost any shape?
The _____________________ or _____________________ rod is usually about 12 inches (30.5 cm) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod.
The _____________________ or _____________________ rod is usually about 12 inches (30.5 cm) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod.
What does perming only the base of the hair achieve?
What does perming only the base of the hair achieve?
______________________ are thin, absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on the perm rods.
______________________ are thin, absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on the perm rods.
What is another name for end papers?
What is another name for end papers?
Why is it important to extend end papers beyond the ends of the hair?
Why is it important to extend end papers beyond the ends of the hair?
List the three most common end paper techniques and explain each.
List the three most common end paper techniques and explain each.
All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into _____________________.
All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into _____________________.
How do you determine the size, shape, and direction of panels?
How do you determine the size, shape, and direction of panels?
Each panel is divided into subsections called _________________________.
Each panel is divided into subsections called _________________________.
__________________________________ refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section, and it is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
__________________________________ refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section, and it is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
Rods can be wrapped in three ways as follows:
Rods can be wrapped in three ways as follows:
For on-base placement, the hair is wrapped ________________________ beyond perpendicular to its base section.
For on-base placement, the hair is wrapped ________________________ beyond perpendicular to its base section.
Half off-base placement refers to wrapping the hair at an angle of _______________________ or perpendicular to its base section.
Half off-base placement refers to wrapping the hair at an angle of _______________________ or perpendicular to its base section.
Half off-base placement ___________________ stress and tension on the hair.
Half off-base placement ___________________ stress and tension on the hair.
Off-base placement refers to wrapping the hair at ____________________ below the center of the base section.
Off-base placement refers to wrapping the hair at ____________________ below the center of the base section.
Which placement creates the least amount of volume and results in curl patterns that begin farthest away from the scalp?
Which placement creates the least amount of volume and results in curl patterns that begin farthest away from the scalp?
Study Notes
Chemical Texture Services
- Texture services alter the natural state of hair: they can curl, straighten, or soften hair.
- Knowledge of chemical texture services aids in providing clients with versatile styling options and builds trust.
- Understanding chemicals in beauty treatments decreases risks of hair damage and enhances stylist confidence.
Types of Chemical Texture Services
- Permanent Waving: Introduces waves or curls to hair.
- Relaxing: Smooths and straightens curl or wave patterns.
- Curl Re-forming: Loosens overly curly hair and transforms tight curls into looser waves.
Hair Structure
- Cuticle: The outer layer of hair that protects inner layers from damage but is not involved in texture or movement.
- Cortex: The middle layer responsible for hair’s strength and elasticity.
- Medulla: The core of the hair, not essential for chemical texture services; may be absent in fine hair.
Hair Chemistry
- pH Scale: Measures acidity (below 7) and alkalinity (above 7) for hair products.
- The natural pH of hair ranges from 4.5 to 5.5.
- Chemical solutions change hair’s structure by raising its pH, which opens the cuticle for effective treatment.
Bonding Structures in Hair
- Amino Acids: The building blocks of proteins, containing carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur.
- Polypeptide and Peptide Bonds: Chains of amino acids linked by peptide bonds.
- Side Bonds: Include disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that affect hair strength and shape.
Permanent Wave Process
- Permanent waves involve physical and chemical changes, requiring wrapping hair on rods and applying waving solutions.
- Two-step process:
- Physical change from rod wrapping.
- Chemical reaction from the permanent waving solution breaking disulfide bonds.
Chemical Solutions and Agents
- Thio: The primary reducing agent in permanent waving, specifically thioglycolic acid.
- Ammonium Thioglycolate: A key ingredient in alkaline permanent waves, updates the solution's alkalinity for better penetration.
Wave Types and Processing
- Cold Waves: Alkaline waves with pH 9.0 to 9.6.
- Acid Waves: Require heat and have lower pH (4.5 to 7.0).
- Acid-balanced Waves: Process at room temperature, producing firmer curls without additional heat.
Neutralization
- Neutralization Process: Stops waving solution action and rebuilds disulfide bonds, primarily using hydrogen peroxide.
- Overprocessing occurs within 5 to 10 minutes; underprocessed hair fails to hold the desired curl.
Perm Rods and Techniques
- Concave Rods: Produce varying curl tightness; tighter in the center, looser on the ends.
- Straight Rods: Create uniform curls.
- Soft Bender Rods: Flexible and able to bend into shapes for styling.
- Decisive panel sectioning is crucial for consistent curl results and volume adjustments.
Additional Techniques
- End Papers: Control hair ends during wrapping; techniques include double flat, single flat, and bookend wraps.
- Proper placement of rods affects curl volume and pattern; techniques are base, half-off base, and off-base placements.
- Off-base placement creates minimal volume, while on-base placements yield maximum volume.
Final Considerations
- Effective rinsing post-chemical treatment is vital for optimal results; careful towel blotting prevents water reducing neutralizer effectiveness.
- Always gather information from manufacturer instructions to ensure product usage aligns with safety protocols and desired outcomes.
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Description
This quiz explores the various types of chemical texture services such as permanent waving, relaxing, and curl re-forming. Gain an understanding of hair structure and chemistry to enhance your skills and ensure the health of your clients' hair. Perfect for beauty students and professionals looking to deepen their knowledge.
