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Questions and Answers
What is the chemical texture service that loosens overly curly hair into loose curls or waves?
What is the chemical texture service that loosens overly curly hair into loose curls or waves?
Curl re-formation
Which layer of the hair provides strength and elasticity?
Which layer of the hair provides strength and elasticity?
Cortex
What is the natural pH of hair?
What is the natural pH of hair?
4.5 to 5
In permanent waving, what determines the size of the curl?
In permanent waving, what determines the size of the curl?
What is the technique of wrapping at a 90-degree angle or straight out from the center called?
What is the technique of wrapping at a 90-degree angle or straight out from the center called?
What are the two basic types of wrapping the hair around a perm rod?
What are the two basic types of wrapping the hair around a perm rod?
What does a reduction reaction involve?
What does a reduction reaction involve?
What is the typical pH range of most permanent waves?
What is the typical pH range of most permanent waves?
What are the basic components of acid waves?
What are the basic components of acid waves?
What must activate an endothermic wave?
What must activate an endothermic wave?
How long should permanent wave solution be rinsed from the hair?
How long should permanent wave solution be rinsed from the hair?
What is the process of rearranging extremely curly hair into a straighter or smoother form?
What is the process of rearranging extremely curly hair into a straighter or smoother form?
Thio chemical relaxers usually have a pH above what number?
Thio chemical relaxers usually have a pH above what number?
What can neutralize hydroxide ions left in hair after a relaxer?
What can neutralize hydroxide ions left in hair after a relaxer?
Which type of relaxer contains one component and is used without additional mixing?
Which type of relaxer contains one component and is used without additional mixing?
Lithium hydroxide relaxers and potassium hydroxide relaxers are often sold as what?
Lithium hydroxide relaxers and potassium hydroxide relaxers are often sold as what?
Which type of side bonds are relatively weak and result from the attraction of electrical charges?
Which type of side bonds are relatively weak and result from the attraction of electrical charges?
What type of rod is also known as a circle rod?
What type of rod is also known as a circle rod?
For on-base placement, the hair is wrapped at a _________ angle.
For on-base placement, the hair is wrapped at a _________ angle.
Which permanent wave processes at room temperature?
Which permanent wave processes at room temperature?
Chemical texturizers ________ the pH of the hair.
Chemical texturizers ________ the pH of the hair.
When should you perform an elasticity test?
When should you perform an elasticity test?
Porous hair can be damaged by what?
Porous hair can be damaged by what?
What does GMTG, the primary reducing agent in all acid waves, have?
What does GMTG, the primary reducing agent in all acid waves, have?
True acid waves require heat to process.
True acid waves require heat to process.
Ammonia-free waves contain no ammonia.
Ammonia-free waves contain no ammonia.
In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place within how many minutes?
In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place within how many minutes?
With permanent waving, what is recommended to be done before the perm service?
With permanent waving, what is recommended to be done before the perm service?
With extremely curly hair, the twists are the _____________ sections of the hair strands.
With extremely curly hair, the twists are the _____________ sections of the hair strands.
Relaxers are ________.
Relaxers are ________.
If the client's hair has been treated with a hydroxide relaxer, it will hold a curl.
If the client's hair has been treated with a hydroxide relaxer, it will hold a curl.
A _____________ is a perm wrap in which one end paper is under and another is placed over the strand for the hair being wrapped.
A _____________ is a perm wrap in which one end paper is under and another is placed over the strand for the hair being wrapped.
Which type of rods are usually about 12 inches long and have a uniform diameter?
Which type of rods are usually about 12 inches long and have a uniform diameter?
What is Thioglycolic acid commonly known as?
What is Thioglycolic acid commonly known as?
The _______________________ is the innermost layer of the hair.
The _______________________ is the innermost layer of the hair.
What type of wrap involves partings and bases that radiate to follow the curvature of the head?
What type of wrap involves partings and bases that radiate to follow the curvature of the head?
What are the chemical bonds that join amino acids together called?
What are the chemical bonds that join amino acids together called?
A ________________ is a type of perm wrap in which the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod.
A ________________ is a type of perm wrap in which the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod.
What method combines the use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing for hair straightening?
What method combines the use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing for hair straightening?
What type of relaxer requires the application of a protective base cream to the entire scalp before its application?
What type of relaxer requires the application of a protective base cream to the entire scalp before its application?
What is the middle layer of the hair called?
What is the middle layer of the hair called?
What refers to the angle at which the rod is positioned on the head?
What refers to the angle at which the rod is positioned on the head?
What is a type of wrap that uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope?
What is a type of wrap that uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope?
What is a wrapping pattern where all rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal bases?
What is a wrapping pattern where all rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal bases?
What is commonly known as a lye relaxer?
What is commonly known as a lye relaxer?
Which rods are equal in diameter along their entire length?
Which rods are equal in diameter along their entire length?
What refers to the thinness or thickness of a liquid?
What refers to the thinness or thickness of a liquid?
What is the tough exterior of the hair called?
What is the tough exterior of the hair called?
What refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section?
What refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section?
What is a type of wrap where the hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft?
What is a type of wrap where the hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft?
What stops the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its new curly form?
What stops the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its new curly form?
What are long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds known as?
What are long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds known as?
What is the process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair called?
What is the process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair called?
What can break hydrogen bonds?
What can break hydrogen bonds?
What is the reducing agent used in permanent waving solution commonly referred to as?
What is the reducing agent used in permanent waving solution commonly referred to as?
Why do manufacturers add an alkalizing agent to waving solutions?
Why do manufacturers add an alkalizing agent to waving solutions?
A pH of 7.0 is _____________ than the pH of hair.
A pH of 7.0 is _____________ than the pH of hair.
Most acid waves found in today's salons have a pH between what values?
Most acid waves found in today's salons have a pH between what values?
Is concentrator one of the three main components of an exothermic wave?
Is concentrator one of the three main components of an exothermic wave?
What type of wave uses an endothermic process?
What type of wave uses an endothermic process?
What type of perm is recommended for very damaged hair?
What type of perm is recommended for very damaged hair?
What is the most common neutralizer used?
What is the most common neutralizer used?
When rinsing the hair for a permanent wave, what is recommended?
When rinsing the hair for a permanent wave, what is recommended?
What is Japanese thermal straightening sometimes called?
What is Japanese thermal straightening sometimes called?
Mild-strength relaxers are formulated for what type of hair?
Mild-strength relaxers are formulated for what type of hair?
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Study Notes
Chemical Texture Services
- Curl re-formation loosens overly curly hair into loose curls or waves.
- Chemical hair relaxing rearranges extremely curly hair into a straighter or smoother form.
Hair Structure and Composition
- The cortex is the middle layer of hair, providing strength and elasticity.
- The medulla is the innermost layer of the hair, while the cuticle is the tough exterior that protects the hair.
pH Levels
- Natural hair pH ranges from 4.5 to 5.
- Most permanent waves have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, while acid waves' pH is generally around 7.8 to 8.2.
- Hydroxide relaxers have a pH above 10, raising the hair's pH during chemical processes.
Permanent Waving Techniques
- The size of the curl in permanent waving is determined by the size of the rod used.
- Two main wrapping techniques are spiral method and croquignole method.
- Base direction refers to the angle at which the rod is positioned on the head, while base placement is the rod's position relative to the base section.
Hair Treatments and Products
- Acid waves consist of a permanent wave solution, activator, and a neutralizer, often hydrogen peroxide.
- A reduction reaction involves adding hydrogen or removing oxygen, typically facilitated by thio, a common reducing agent in permanent waves.
- Endothermic waves require an outside heat source for activation, while ammonia-free waves process at room temperature.
Chemical Reactions in Hair
- Hydroxide ions from relaxers can be neutralized using acid-balanced shampoo.
- Elasticity tests should be performed before perming to assess hair condition.
- Peptide bonds join amino acids, forming polypeptide chains that create hair structure.
Types of Relaxers
- Metal hydroxide relaxers contain one component and require no mixing, often advertised as no-lye. Examples include lithium and potassium hydroxide.
- Sodium hydroxide relaxers, also known as lye relaxers, are extremely alkaline and require a protective base cream.
Hair Wrapping Techniques
- Half off-base placement is achieved by wrapping hair at a 90-degree angle from the center.
- Basic permanent wrap has all rods in a panel moving in the same direction and positioned on equal bases.
- Bookend wrap uses one end paper folded over the hair ends, while double flat wrap involves two papers for better control.
Special Considerations
- Extremely curly hair has thinnest and weakest sections at the twists, making it more susceptible to damage from highly alkaline solutions.
- Japanese Thermal Straightening, also known as thermal reconditioning, combines thio relaxers with flat ironing for straightening paths.
Processing Times
- Permanent waves typically process within 5 to 10 minutes, while the wave solution should be rinsed for at least 5 minutes after application.
- Always smell the hair post-rinse to check for adequate processing before proceeding.
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