Fashion History 2025: Renaissance to French Revolution

• Jayne Simone Estève Cure presents Fashion History 2025.
• The first class is scheduled for January 25th.

Programme Overview:

• Renaissance to French Revolution, 1789.
• Merveilleuses: 1790 to the fall of the 2nd Empire, 1871.
• Belle Epoque to 2nd World War, 1944.
• The "New Look" from 1947 to the rebirth of couture in 2000, including CC1 (Classroom Component 1) that is an exam component.
• Contemporary times from 2000-2024.

16th Century to 1798: Renaissance to French Revolution:

• French Renaissance: An artistic and cultural movement in France during the mid-15th to early 17th centuries.
• The Renaissance in France emerged after the beginning of the movement in Italy.
• This movement profoundly reshaped the worldview.
• It included a quest for knowledge, free thinking, the spread of humanism, the invention of printing, and the discovery/exploration of the New World.
• New techniques and artistic forms, including architecture, painting, sculpture, music, sciences and literature, were part of the Renaissance.
• French monarchs, especially Francis I (1515-1547), significantly promoted Renaissance culture in France. -Francis I was a great admirer of Italian Renaissance art and invited Italian artists like Leonardo da Vinci to his court.
• Constructed the Château de Chambord and renovated the Louvre during his rein reflecting the Renaissance aesthetic.
• Writers like François Rabelais and Michel de Montaigne embraced humanist ideals, incorporating classical themes into their works.
• Rabelais' "Gargantua and Pantagruel" and Montaigne's "Essays" are examples of French Renaissance literature.
• Renaissance art in France blended Italian influences with indigenous French styles.
• French artists like Jean Clouet and François Clouet produced portraits combining realism and classical elegance.
• Renaissance elements were evident in palaces, churches, and civic buildings.
• Education: The Renaissance fostered interest in education and scholarship in France.
• Humanist schools and universities, such as the Collège de France promoted classical languages, literature, philosophy, and science,.
• The Protestant Reformation caused religious tensions and divisions in French society
• This was a convergence of artistic, intellectual, and cultural influences, leaving a lasting impact on French society and beyond.

History of Costume (1500-1858):

• Succession of French rulers from 1500-1858 including French Eras and Emperors.
• Bourbon family members included François/Francis I (1515-1547); Henri IV (1589-1610); Louis XIII (1610-1643, with regency by Marie de Médici 1610-1617); Louis XIV (1643-1715); Louis XV (1715-1774); and Louis XVI (1774-1793), whose reign ended with the French Revolution in 1789.
• Emperors: Napoleon I (1804-1815); Louis XVIII (1815-1824); Charles X (1824-1830); Louis-Philippe I (1830-1848); and Napoleon III (1848-1852)
• François 1st, born in 1494, ascended the throne of France in 1515, embodying the French Renaissance period.
• The arts and literature flourished during his reign;.
• He was a fervent patron of the arts, attracting the talents of Leonardo Da Vinci , purchasing the Mona Lisa.
• He was a man of letters, founder of the French National Library.
• Begun construction of the Château de Chambord and the Louvre Palace.
• Spread humanism and Protestantism.
• French replaced Latin as the national language.
• The reign included exploration of the New World claimed lands - Jacques Cartier & colonization
• First French monarch to establish formal relations with the Ottoman Empire.
• Died in 1547, and his son Henry the second succeeded him,.

Clothing Styles (Renaissance):

• Evolution of styles took place during the 16th century.
• Women dressed with richer materials, decoration, and Italian influences.
• Necklines were typically square and low.
• Men's garments were increasing in broader silhouette with the growing popularity of the presence of slashing.
• Anne of Brittany, Queen of France, was the fashion icon because she was a woman of immense wealth, culture and taste.
• Women's clothing became increasingly rigid over the period.
• Spanish fashion became ascendant and used the Spanish Farthingale/Vertugadin giving a rigid silhouette, and a loose-waisted mantle opened in front.
• Henry IV (1589-1610)
• Bodices had a plunging décolletage, laced with silk ribbon.
• Rich embroidery and ornamentation,.
• Sleeves: large sizes, slashed, paned and puffed.
• Skirts: Had 2 layers and the top one gathered to reveal the bottom skirt.
• Ruffs: crimped or pleated to be worn wide and full
• Ever-expanding dimensionality for the women.

Louis XIII (1619-1643):

• The Baroque era succeeds (Louis XIV) the Renaissance period.
• Baroque style, marked by artificiality and emphasis on appearances.
• Wigs are symbolic of Baroque fashion, representing excess with long hair and towering pyramid-shaped hairstyles, as well as vibrant colors.
• Outlandish makeup including whitening was common.
• Small pieces of black cloth were often applied.
• Women's dresses consisted of bodice and skirt as well as petticoats,.
• Sleeves: large slashed or paned and stuffed.
• Skirts could have 2 layers (top one being lifted to reveal the bottom skirt).
• Historical Events from 1660-1789: French Style with Spanish formality unites the marriage of Louis XIV.
• The regency of Philippe of Orléans - based at the Palais Royal, Parisian Court life becomes important.
• the “Robe à la française" becomes the era's characteristic look
• Official mistress Madame de Pompadour adds decorative flair & flamboyancy
• King XVI marries future king XVI marries Marie-Antoinette (centre of fashion scene)
• Rose Bertin opens a boutique royal in Paris in 1770.
• Royal patronage from rose Bertin.
• Bertin designs many court forms.
• A seamstresses have similar couturiers and tailors.

Louis XIV (1643-1715 The Sun King):

• French Style unites Spanish formality with Louis XIV.
• Jean Baptiste Colbert becomes Chief Minister.
• Launched journal Le Mercure Galant reporting on court and Parisian Fashion.
• Seamstresses and Coutiers obtain guild status.
• Les Marchandes de Mode becomes Female fashion meets.
• Manteau Mantel Dress is when skirts are worn over dresses.
• Le Mercure Gallery Describes modern fashion.
• Versailles became location fo official meeting as officials move over.
• 18th century changes in clothing included dress batallate.

Further 18th trends and undergarments:

• Rose Bertin opens her boutique in Paris, quickly attracting Royal attention.
• Robe Volante became popular compared to the rigid court fashion.
• The Whalebone (also known as a baleen) was a special design
• It was wide and the skirts, pagoda style, wide at hips and attached either end.
• Grand habit also known as (bustier) and shape via panniers was another style .
• Rise of fashion also became significant from the the 1700's and and it led to a love of pleasure that included clothing .
• A panier a special undergardment helped the skirts.
• A Crinoline (Underlayers) had ropes also and this increased size and gave the skirts shape.
• The pannier enhanced curves.
• Louis LVI and marie Antionette & Rose Bertin were significant at the time.
• Maria Antoinette at a young age got married on May and was painted a lot.
• Ministery of Fashion for Queen MA was Rose Bertin and wedding dress also a key product for her.
• She innovative designs with MA. She had a fashion boutique and was a design merchant.
• chemise-like shift.
• Panniers/hooped petticoat supported the skirt and made the waist.
• After the queen's execution in 1793, the French monarchy fell and revolutionary fashion was introduced.

Explore fashion history from the Renaissance to the French Revolution in Jayne Simone Estève Cure's Fashion History 2025 course. The course covers periods from the 16th century to 1789. It will discuss artistic movements, cultural shifts, and the reshaping of worldviews during these times.