Fashion History - Renaissance to Contemporary Times PDF

29/01/2025 FASHION HISTORY J AY N E S I M O N E E S T È V E C U R E 2025 janvier 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 1 1 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – I N T R O D U CT I O N OUR PROGRAMME 1. RENAISSANCE TO FRENCH REVOLUTION 1789 2. MERVEI...

29/01/2025 FASHION HISTORY J AY N E S I M O N E E S T È V E C U R E 2025 janvier 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 1 1 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – I N T R O D U CT I O N OUR PROGRAMME 1. RENAISSANCE TO FRENCH REVOLUTION 1789 2. MERVEILLEUSES 1790 TO FALL OF THE 2ND EMPIRE 1871 3. BELLE EPOQUE TO 2ND WORLD WAR 1944 4. NEW LOOK 1947 TO REBIRTH OF COUTURE 2000 + CC1 (EXAM IN CLASS) 5. CONTEMPORARY TIMES 2000-2024 janvier 25 2 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 2 1  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – R E N A I S S A N C E TO WO R T H 16th Century to 1798 Renaissance to French Revolution FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 3 janvier 25 3 FASHION HISTORY– THE RENAISSANCE THE FRENCH RENAISSANCE The French Renaissance is an artistic and cultural movement located in France between the middle of the 15th century and the beginning of the 17th century. The Renaissance emerges in France after the beginning of the movement in Italy and its spread to other European countries. Allegory of Charles IX as Mars Léonard Limousin 1573 janvier 25 4 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 4 2  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – T H E R E N A I S S A N C E The French Renaissance is an artistic & cultural movement. profoundly reshaped the worldview of the time. The main caracteristics of this transformative movement was: A quest for knowledge and free thinking & spread of humanism. The invention of printing. The discovery & exploration of the New World. New techniques & artistic forms including architecture, painting, sculpture, music, sciences, literature. janvier 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 5 5 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – T H E R E N A I S S A N C E ROYAL PATRONAGE French monarchs, particularly Francis I (r. 1515–1547), played a significant role in promoting Renaissance culture in France. Francis I was a great admirer of Italian Renaissance art and architecture, and he invited Italian artists such as Leonardo da Vinci to work at his court. The construction of the Château de Chambord and the renovation of the Louvre during his reign reflect the Renaissance aesthetic. janvier 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 6 6 3  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – T H E R E N A I S S A N C E LITERATURE & HUMANISM The Renaissance in France saw a revival of classical literature and humanist thought. Writers like François Rabelais and Michel de Montaigne embraced humanist ideals and incorporated classical themes and forms into their works. Rabelais' "Gargantua and Pantagruel" and Montaigne's "Essays" are notable examples of French Renaissance literature. janvier 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 7 7 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – T H E R E N A I S S A N C E ARTS & ARCHITECTURE Renaissance art in France was characterized by a blend of Italian influences with indigenous French styles. French artists such as Jean Clouet and François Clouet produced portraits that combined realism with classical elegance. Architecture also flourished during this period, with Renaissance elements evident in the design of palaces, churches, and civic buildings. François 1er by Jean Clouet janvier 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 8 8 4  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – T H E R E N A I S S A N C E EDUCATION The Renaissance fostered a renewed interest in education and scholarship in France. The establishment of humanist schools and universities, such as the Collège de France, promoted the study of classical languages, literature, philosophy, and science. RELIGION & POLITICS Religious tensions, exemplified by the Protestant Reformation, created divisions within French society. Overall, the Renaissance in France was a dynamic period marked by a convergence of artistic, intellectual, and cultural influences that left a lasting impact on French School of Athens society and beyond. Raffaello Sanzio da Urbino. 1511 janvier 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 9 9 FASHION HISTORY– THE RENAISSANCE HISTORY OF COSTUME 1500-1858 SUCCESSION OF FRENCH RULERS FRENCH ERAS Bourbon family + Emperors § François/Francis 1er 1515-1547 born in 1494 § Henri IV 1589-1610 born in 1553 – Baroque style § Louis XIII 1610-1643 born in 1601 – regency by Marie de Médici (mother) 1610-1617) § Louis XIV 1643-1715 born in 1638 § Louis XV 1715-1774 born in 1710 - Rococo style § Louis XVI 1774-1793 born in 1754 - Marie Antoinette & Rose Bertin § The French Revolution 1789 § Napoleon 1er 1804-1815 - Joséphine de Beauharnais &Hyppolite Leroy § Louis XVIII 1815-1824 born 1755 § Charles X 1824-1830 born 1757 § Louis-Philippe 1er 1830-1848 born 1773 § Napoleon III 1848-1852 born 1808 Emperor then President of the 2nd Republic – Eugénie du Derje de Montijo & Charles Frederick Worth janvier 25 10 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 10 5  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – T H E R E N A I S S A N C E FRANÇOIS 1st 1494-1547 Born 12th of September 1494 at the Château de Cognac Ascended the throne in 1515 as King of France François I is considered the emblematic king of the French Renaissance period. During his reign, the arts and literature flourished in France. Fervent Patron of the Arts – attracted Leonardo Da Vinci & bought from him the Mona Lisa Man of letters – founded the French National Library Began constructions such as Château de Chambord or the Louvre Palace & also the Hotel de Ville de Paris… french Renaissance architecture Spread of Humanism and Protestanism French became the national language overthrowing Latin Exploration of the New Work - Jacques Cartier claimed lands in the Americas for France – beginning of the French colonial Empire 1st french monarch to establish formal relations with the Ottaman Empire Died in 1547, his son Henry II succeeded him on the throne janvier 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 11 11 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – T H E R E N A I S S A N C E CLOTHING STYLES RENAISSANCE EVOLUTION DURING THE 16th CENTURY Women in France dressed as they had in the 15th century, but with greater richness in material and decoration, as well as Italian influences. Necklines tended to be square and low. Growing italian influence producing a broader silhouette and an increasing presence of slashing on men’s gaments. Anne of Brittany, Queen of France, was the fashion icon of the times. A woman of immense wealth, culture and taste, Anne dressed herself at the forefront of style as befitted her role as Queen of France and Duchess of Brittany. As the century passed women’s clothing became increasingly rigid with stiffened bodices flattening the torso and breasts. Spanish fashion became ascendant with the use of the Spanish Farthingale/Vertugadin giving a very rigid silhouette & a loose- waisted mantle open in front (continuation of the surcoat). Jean JMarot, Le Voyage de Gênes, 1507-08 janvier 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 12 12 6  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – T H E R E N A I S S A N C E RENAISSANCE French hood edged with diamonds Anne de Bretagne Fashion icon Pearl & diamond encrusted gold necklace Golden silk damask gown with a square Gown cuffs neckline with a trimmed in sable slight rise at the center The Cotte Ample skirt and sleeves are red & train trimmed in gold janvier 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 13 13 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – T H E R E N A I S S A N C E HENRI IV 1589-1610 The bodice (extravagantly décolleté & laced with a silk ribbon in front) Petticoat & gown Lacing covered with a piece or plastron Rich embroidery & ornementation Sleeves large, slashed or paned & puffed out with stuffing Skirt -> 2 skirts: an overskirt gathered up to reveal the skirt underneath Ruff crimped or pleated collar or frill worn wide and full An ever-expanding dimensionality for women janvier 25 14 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 14 7  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – T H E R E N A I S S A N C E LOUIS XIII 1619-1643 Anne d’Autriche janvier 25 15 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 15 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – B A R O Q U E BAROQUE ST YLE 1600-1650 The Baroque era succeeds the Renaissance period. - Artistic and aesthetic movement around 1580 & throughout the first half of the 17th century. - "Baroque" originates from the Portuguese word "barroco," which originally meant "pearl of irregular shape. » MANTLE DRESS Fashion, 17th century, lady of the baroque period, copperplate engraving, janvier 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 16 16 8  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – T H E R E N A I S S A N C E BAROQUE STYLE Characterized by its artificiality, emphasizing appearances : - Wigs became a quintessential symbol of Baroque fashion, representing both excesses with long hair for men and towering pyramid-shaped hairstyles for women, as well as vibrant colors such as fiery red or golden blond. - Outlandish makeup, including whitening the face to a shade far removed from natural complexion, was common, often accentuated by the application of "flies" – small pieces of black cloth. - Women’s Dress consisted of - A bodice (extravagantly décolleté & laced with a silk ribbon in front) , petticoat & gown - Lacing covered with a piece or plastron - Sleeves large, slashed or paned & puffed out with stuffing - Skirt -> 2 skirts: an overskirt gathered up to reveal the skirt underneath janvier 25 17 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 17 FASHION HISTORY– EVOLUTION KEY HISTORICAL EVENTS 1660-1789 1660 Louis XIV marries the Spanish princess Maria Teresa which unites French Style with Spanish formality 1715 Regency of Philippe of Orléans – based at the Palais Royal, court life in Paris – Popularity of the informal “Robe Volante” or “Watteau robe”. 1720 Popularity of the “Robe à la française” – becomes the characteristic silhouette of the 18th century 1745-61 Madame de Pompadour (official mistress to the King) adds flamboyancy & decorative influence to court costume & culture 1760 Establishment of royal workshop for printed toiles at Jouy-en-Josas (toile de Jouy) 1770 The dauphin future king XVI marries Marie-Antoinette of Austria who gradually becomes center stage of court fashion 1770 Rose Bertin opens her boutique at Fg St Honoré attracting royal patronage across Europe 1774 Bertin named modiste (dressmaker) to Marie-Antoinette. Designs court & informal dress 1776 Creation of the community of marchandes de modes, plumers & florists – organization of accessory makers 1780 Anglomania lead to the popularity of the “Robe à l’anglaise” 1781 Couturières (seamstresses) gain equal rights with tailors to make stays & panniers for formal court dress 1783 Marie-Antoinette establishes a model farm in Versailles mixing sheperdesses, artists, designers and poets 1789 Storming of the Bastille on the 14th of July and start of the French Revolution janvier 25 18 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 18 9  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X I V LO U I S X I V 1643-1715 THE SUN KING janvier 25 19 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 19 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X I V KEY EVENTS 1660 Louis XIV marries the Spanish princess Maria Teresa which unites French Style with Spanish formality 1665 Colbert becomes Chief minister 1672 Launch of the journal Le Mercure Galant reporting on Court & Parisian fashion for a general French audience. 1675 Seamstresses/couturières obtain a guild status. Marks the birth of the boutique: Female fashion merchants “Les Marchandes de Mode 1678 Appearance of the Manteau/Mantle dress – a coat dress worn over skirts. Aristocratic dress becomes less formal. 1678 Le Mercure Galant describe fashion seasons for the 1st time 1680 The Fontange headress appears – elongates the female silhouette/height 1682 Versailles becomes the official government seat when the Royal Court moves there from Paris 1683 Death of Queen Maria Teresa. Secret wedding of Louis XIV & Madame de Maintenon 1715 Death of Louis XIV janvier 25 20 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 20 10  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X I V FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNESIMONEESTEVECURE2023 21 janvier 25 21 FASHION HISTORY– LOUIS XIV janvier 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 22 11  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X I V Louis XIV The « Sun King » Portrait of Louis XIV in coronation costume 1701 by the French painter Hyacinthe Rigaud Versailles. Because of its brilliance and quality, this portrait has come to be known as the "official portrait" of Louis XIV. janvier 25 23 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 23 FAS H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X I V janvier 25 24 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 24 12  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X I V MARIA TERESA DE AUSTRIA Daughter of Philippe IV King of Spain & Elisabeth de France 1638 - 1683 janvier 25 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 25 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X I V LO U I S X I V OR I GI N S OF F R E N C H LUXURY & FA S H I O N janvier 25 26 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 26 13  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X I V janvier 25 27 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 27 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X I V LOUIS XIV & LUXURY Louis believed luxury was necessary not only to the economic health of the country, but to the prestige and very survival of the monarchy. janvier 25 28 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 28 14  29/01/2025 FASHION HISTORY– LOUIS XIV COLBERT Minister of Finance, State Secretary of the King’s House & Marine Portrait of Jean-Baptiste Colbert By Philippe de Champaigne janvier 25 1655 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 29 29 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X I V janvier 25 30 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 30 15  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X I V LO U I S X I V P OW E R D R E S S I N G & H I S « FAVO U R I T E S » janvier 25 31 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 31 FASHION HISTORY – LOUIS XIV Mademoiselle de La Vallière janvier 25 32 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 32 16  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X I V Madame de Montespan 1640-1707 janvier 25 33 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 33 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X I V Madame de Montespan 1640-1707 janvier 25 34 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 34 17  29/01/2025 FAS H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X I V Madame de Fontanges janvier 25 35 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 35 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X I V Madame de Maintenon Secret wife of King Louis XIV janvier 25 36 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 36 18  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X I V 1715 DEATH OF LOUIS XIV janvier 25 37 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 37 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – 1 8 T H C E N T U RY THE 18TH CENTURY CHANGES IN CLOTHING janvier 25 HISTOIRE MODE & TENDANCES JSEC© 38 38 19  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – 1 8 T H C E N T U RY Dress « battante » popularised by Madame de Montespan (Pregnancy concealing dress) janvier 25 39 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 39 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – 1 8 T H C E N T U RY THE MANTUA OR MANTLE DRESS 1678 The appearance of the Manteau/Mantle dress – a coat dress worn over skirts. The aristocratic dress becomes less formal. Pierre Gobert, Marie Anne de Bourbon, 1713, Palace of Versaillse, Versailles, France. janvier 25 40 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 40 20  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – 1 8 T H C E N T U RY ROBE « VOLANTE » 1st appeared in 1705 The informal “Robe volante” came into fashion with a desire for more movement, comfort and relative practicality compared with the Grand Habit worn at Court. janvier 25 41 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 41 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – 1 8 T H C E N T U RY ROBE « VOLANTE » janvier 25 42 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 42 21  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – 1 8 T H C E N T U RY Robe « volante » 1720 janvier 25 43 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 43 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – 1 8 T H C E N T U RY ROBE A LA FRANÇAISE 1740 - 1770 1760 1770 janvier 25 44 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 44 22  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – 1 8 T H C E N T U RY ROBE « A LA FRANÇAISE » 1740 Whalebone corset had a ow square neckline funneling the body into an inverted cone shape. Accentuates a slim waist & wide hipline. A stomacher is attached to either side of the dress. Wide pannier skirt gave width - it was made out of several tiers of whalebone or willow strips tied about the waist with ribbons. Ornate trimming displayed the wealth of the wearer (lace, braids, folded loops of material). Flared sleeves were slim to the elbow, pagoda style, then flared out at the cuff janvier 25 45 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 45 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – 1 8 T H C E N T U RY THE GRAND HABIT Illustrates the magnificent Court dress of the early years of Louis XIV’s rule. COMPOSED OF - Grand corps or corps de robe (bustier) - The jupe (skirt) – shape given by panniers - Bas de robe or queue (train) - Bodice - Sleeves were worn off the shoulders, puffed to the elbow & festooned with layers of lace & trimming Queen Maria Teresa & her son, wearing a Grand Habit Pierre Mignard 1665 janvier 25 46 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 46 23  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – 1 8 T H C E N T U RY RISE OF ROCOCO FASHION Jean-Honoré Fragonard, The Swing, 1767, janvier 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 47 47 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V LOUIS XV 1715-1774 Portrait of Louis XV in coronation costume by Hyacinthe Rigaud (1730) janvier 25 48 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 48 24  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V MARIE LESZCZYNSKA LOUIS XV Wife janvier 25 49 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 49 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V H AU T E C O U T U R E I N PA R I S 1 7 0 0 - 1 78 9 LOUIS XV HIS “FAVORITE” Madame de Pompadour janvier 25 50 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 50 25  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V Madame de Pompadour 1732 janvier 25 51 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 51 FASHION HISTORY– LOUIS XV MADAME DE POMPADOUR ROCOCO STAR FRANÇOIS BOUCHER 1756 janvier 25 52 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 52 26  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V janvier 25 53 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 53 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V ROCOCO FASHION After the death of Louis XIV and the accession to the throne by Louis XV in 1715, a new chic & refined style appears: the rococo style. It symbolizes an emblematic artistic movement lead by a society avid of pleasure in numerous sorts including clothing that becomes an Art. After the elegance under the reign of Louis XIV the rococo style will confirm the reputation of France being the center of feminine fashion. janvier 25 54 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 54 27  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V ROCOCO UNDERGARMENTS janvier 25 55 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 55 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V ROCOCO DRESS « À LA FRANÇAISE » 1750 janvier 25 56 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 56 28  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V 3 STYLES OF DRESSES -> Rococo period ROBE A LA FRANÇAISE ROBE A LA POLONAISE ROBE A L’ANGLAISE 1724-1775 1770-1780 janvier 25 57 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 57 FASHION HISTORY– LOUIS XV ROSE A L’ANGLAISE The robe à l'anglaise developed with a fitted back after the style of dress worn in England. The silhouette, composed of a funnel-shaped bust feeding into wide rectangular skirts. The dress is characterised by its tight-fitting bodice with long or half- length sleeves. janvier 25 58 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 58 29  29/01/2025 FASHION HISTORY– LOUIS XV ROSE A LA POLONAISE 1770-1780 The style of gown had a close- fitting bodice and the back of the skirt gathered up into three separate puffed sections to reveal the petticoat below. janvier 25 59 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 59 FASHION HISTORY– LOUIS XV EVOLUTION LE PANIER OF UNDERSTRUCTURES LA CRINOLINE LA TOURNURE 1724-1775 1830-1860 1869-1888 janvier 25 60 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 60 30  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V THE PANNIER 1724-1775 Undergarment worn by women support skirts. Very wide on the sides, flat in front and behind, to accentuate the natural feminine curves by visually widening the hips in order to slim the waist. janvier 25 61 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 61 FASHION HISTORY– LOUIS XV THE CRINOLINE 1830-1870 It was around 1839 that the use of the horsehair petticoat appeared. Volume given by an increased addition of more & more petticoats, weighted & trimmed with ruffles & ropes. One of the layers was made with horsehair (crinoline). Then in 1856, the crinoline « cage » was invented réinfrocing petticoats with whalebone or wicker hoops. janvier 25 62 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 62 31  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – 1 8 T H C E N T U RY CRINOLINE OR HOOP PETTICOAT EARLY 18th CENTURY FASHION DEVELOPMENT 1st appeared in England in about 1710 the hoop was adopted in France by 1718 & remained fashionable until the end of the 18th century. It was considered comfortable & modern for it allowed freedom of movement than multiple layers of petticoats. Its size & shape varied over time: Earliest were bell shaped consisted of sturdy linen petticoat stiffined with 3 or more graduated hoops of baleen, called whalebone Silhouette evolved to squared & flattened mid-century Softly rounded silhouette 1780’s It defined the female silhouette through the century. janvier 25 63 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 63 FASHION HISTORY– 18TH CENTURY EARLY 18tH CENTURY FASHION DEVELOPMENT HOOP PETTICOAT janvier 25 64 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 64 32  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – 1 8 T H C E N T U RY EARLY 18tH CENTURY FASHION DEVELOPMENT – CRINOLINE OR HOOP PETTICOAT 1st appeared in England in about 1710 the hoop was adopted in France by 1718 & remained fashionable until the end of the 18th century. It was considered comfortable & modern for it allowed freedom of movement than multiple layers of petticoats. Its size & shape varied over time: Earliest were bell shaped consisted of sturdy linen petticoat stiffined with 3 or more graduated hoops of baleen, called whalebone Silhouette evolved to squared & flattened mid-century Softly rounded silhouette 1780’s It defined the female silhouette through the century. janvier 25 65 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 65 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V THE “TOURNURE” 1869-1888 Placed under the petticoat, attached just below the waist, and supports the whole of the petticoats, skirts and upper draperies (in vogue especially in the 1880s); and it is, too, made of a network of horizontal metal ribs, supported by vertical bands. janvier 25 66 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 66 33  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V I & M A R I E A N TO I N E T T E LOUIS XVI, MARIE ANTOINETTE & Rose Bertin janvier 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 67 67 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V I & M A R I E A N TO I N E T T E LOUIS XVI Louis XVI in Coronation costume, by Antoine-François Callet (1779) janvier 25 68 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 68 34  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V I & M A R I E A N TO I N E T T E Engraving of the wedding of Archduchess Marie- Antoinette to the Dauphin, the future Louis XVI, on 16 May 1770. janvier 25 69 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 69 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V I & M A R I E A N TO I N E T T E MARIE ANTOINETTE janvier 25 70 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 70 35  29/01/2025 FASHION HISTORY– LOUIS XVI & MARIE ANTOINETTE Archduchess Maria Antoina at the Age 13 (portrait by Joseph Marie-Antoinette 1775 age of 7 (portrait by Jean-Etienne Liotard 1762) Ducreux 1769) janvier 25 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 JAYNE ESTEVE CURE © 71 FASHION HISTORY– LOUIS XVI & MARIE ANTOINETTE janvier 25 72 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 72 36  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V I & M A R I E A N TO I N E T T E MARIE- ANTOINETTE GIVES A CONCERT 1775 janvier 25 73 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 73 FASHION HISTORY– ROSE BERTIN ROSE BERTIN 1744-1813 Ministery of Fashion for Marie Antoinette 11 May 1774 janvier 25 74 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 74 37  29/01/2025 FASHION HISTORY– ROSE BERTIN LE GRAND MOGOL 1770 A « fashion » boutique that Rose Bertin, 20 years old, opened in 1770 on rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré in Paris. janvier 25 75 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 75 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – R O S E B E R T I N ROSE BERTIN The Fashion Merchant La Marchande de mode La Marchande de modes, engraving by Robert Bénard, 1769 janvier 25 76 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 76 38  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – R O S E B E R T I N ROSE BERTIN The Fashion Merchant La Marchande de mode La Marchande de modes, Painting by François Boucher cicra 1760 janvier 25 77 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 77 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – R O S E B E R T I N ROSE BERTIN Innovative designs imagined with Marie Antoinette janvier 25 78 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 78 39  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – R O S E B E R T I N ROSE BERTIN Dress for Marie Antoinette janvier 25 79 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 79 FASHION HISTORY– ROSE BERTIN ROSE BERTIN Wedding dress for Marie Antoinette 1770 janvier 25 80 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 80 40  29/01/2025 FASHION HISTORY– LOUIS XVI & MARIE ANTOINETTE CHEMISE CLOTH OF SILVER MANTUA COVERED WITH PEARLS & DIAMONDS SILVER PETTICOAT WHALEBONE STAYS & CLOTH OF SILVER STOMACHER PANNIERS/HOOPED PETTICOAT janvier 25 81 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 81 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V I & M A R I E A N TO I N E T T E MARIE ANTOINETTE THE DOWNFALL janvier 25 82 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 82 41  29/01/2025 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V I & M A R I E A N TO I N E T T E janvier 25 83 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 83 FA S H I O N H I STO RY – LO U I S X V I & M A R I E A N TO I N E T T E janvier 25 84 FASHION HISTORY ©JAYNEESTEVECURE23 84 42