Podcast
Questions and Answers
A pH below 7 is ___________.
A pH below 7 is ___________.
acidic
A pH above 7 is ___________.
A pH above 7 is ___________.
alkaline
Chemical solutions raise the pH of the hair to an ________ state.
Chemical solutions raise the pH of the hair to an ________ state.
alkaline
Chemical solutions raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state, forcing the cuticle layer to open up so that the solution can reach the ________.
Chemical solutions raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state, forcing the cuticle layer to open up so that the solution can reach the ________.
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Coarse, resistant hair with a strong, compact cuticle layer requires a highly _________ chemical solution.
Coarse, resistant hair with a strong, compact cuticle layer requires a highly _________ chemical solution.
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Porous, damaged, or chemically treated hair requires a less ________ solution.
Porous, damaged, or chemically treated hair requires a less ________ solution.
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_________ link amino acids together in long chains.
_________ link amino acids together in long chains.
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Hair and skin has a pH level between __________.
Hair and skin has a pH level between __________.
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_______ are compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur.
_______ are compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur.
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_______ bonds, also known as end bonds, are chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end-to-end in long chains, to form a polypeptide chain.
_______ bonds, also known as end bonds, are chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end-to-end in long chains, to form a polypeptide chain.
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_______ are long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds.
_______ are long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds.
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__________ are long, coiled polypeptide chains.
__________ are long, coiled polypeptide chains.
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__________ are disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross link polypeptide chains together.
__________ are disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross link polypeptide chains together.
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The ______ is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross linked by three types of bonds: disulfide, salt, and hydrogen.
The ______ is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross linked by three types of bonds: disulfide, salt, and hydrogen.
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Side bonds are responsible for the ________ and ________ of the hair.
Side bonds are responsible for the ________ and ________ of the hair.
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__________ are strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together.
__________ are strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together.
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Although there are far fewer ________ bonds than hydrogen or salt bonds, they are the strongest of the three side bonds, accounting for about one third of the hair's overall strength.
Although there are far fewer ________ bonds than hydrogen or salt bonds, they are the strongest of the three side bonds, accounting for about one third of the hair's overall strength.
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_________ bonds are not affected by water; however, boiling water can break and alter their appearance.
_________ bonds are not affected by water; however, boiling water can break and alter their appearance.
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__________ are relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges (ionic bonds); they are easily broken by changes in pH, and they re-form when the pH returns to normal levels.
__________ are relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges (ionic bonds); they are easily broken by changes in pH, and they re-form when the pH returns to normal levels.
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__________ are broken by changes in pH levels.
__________ are broken by changes in pH levels.
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________ are weak physical side bonds that are also the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; broken by water or heat & reform as the hair dries or cools.
________ are weak physical side bonds that are also the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; broken by water or heat & reform as the hair dries or cools.
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A correct permanent wave service only alters the _________ bonds.
A correct permanent wave service only alters the _________ bonds.
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Alkaline permanent waving solutions ________ and _________ the hair, and they open the cuticle, permitting the solution to penetrate into the cortex.
Alkaline permanent waving solutions ________ and _________ the hair, and they open the cuticle, permitting the solution to penetrate into the cortex.
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Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the _______ bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction.
Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the _______ bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction.
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A reduction reaction involves either the addition of __________ or the removal of ________.
A reduction reaction involves either the addition of __________ or the removal of ________.
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The reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to the addition of ________.
The reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to the addition of ________.
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What comes first in the process of permanent waving?
What comes first in the process of permanent waving?
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All permanent wave solutions contain a reducing agent. The reducing agent, commonly referred to as _______, is used in permanent waving solutions.
All permanent wave solutions contain a reducing agent. The reducing agent, commonly referred to as _______, is used in permanent waving solutions.
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__________ is a colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor. It is the most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions.
__________ is a colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor. It is the most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions.
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The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of ________.
The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of ________.
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Because acids do not swell the hair nor penetrate into the cortex, it is necessary for manufacturers to add an alkalizing agent. The addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces a new chemical named _______, which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.
Because acids do not swell the hair nor penetrate into the cortex, it is necessary for manufacturers to add an alkalizing agent. The addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces a new chemical named _______, which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.
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Coarse hair with a strong, resistant cuticle layer needs the additional swelling and penetration that is provided by a stronger and highly more __________ waving solution.
Coarse hair with a strong, resistant cuticle layer needs the additional swelling and penetration that is provided by a stronger and highly more __________ waving solution.
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Porous hair or hair with a damaged cuticle layer is easily penetrated and could be damaged by a highly _______ permanent waving solution.
Porous hair or hair with a damaged cuticle layer is easily penetrated and could be damaged by a highly _______ permanent waving solution.
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The alkalinity of the perm solution should correspond to the resistance, strength and ______ of the cuticle layer.
The alkalinity of the perm solution should correspond to the resistance, strength and ______ of the cuticle layer.
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Low-pH waves have a pH of -_.
Low-pH waves have a pH of -_.
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Alkaline/cold wave & exothermic have a pH of -_.
Alkaline/cold wave & exothermic have a pH of -_.
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Thio-free & ammonia free waves have a pH between ____-_____.
Thio-free & ammonia free waves have a pH between ____-_____.
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True acid wave have a pH between -.
True acid wave have a pH between -.
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Acid balanced waves have a pH between -.
Acid balanced waves have a pH between -.
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_____________ is the reducing agent of alkaline waves/cold waves. Processes at room temp without addition of heat.
_____________ is the reducing agent of alkaline waves/cold waves. Processes at room temp without addition of heat.
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In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place ____________, within the first ____ to _____ minutes.
In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place ____________, within the first ____ to _____ minutes.
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Which two types of perms would you use for coarse, thick, or resistant hair?
Which two types of perms would you use for coarse, thick, or resistant hair?
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Which type of perm would you use for extremely porous or very damaged hair?
Which type of perm would you use for extremely porous or very damaged hair?
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What type of perm would you use for porous or damaged hair?
What type of perm would you use for porous or damaged hair?
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What two types of perms would you use for porous to normal hair?
What two types of perms would you use for porous to normal hair?
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What type of perm would you use for normal, fine or damaged hair?
What type of perm would you use for normal, fine or damaged hair?
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________ refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section; __________ is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
________ refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section; __________ is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
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For _________, the hair is wrapped 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base.
For _________, the hair is wrapped 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base.
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_______ refers to the angle at which the rod is positioned on the head: horizontally, vertically, or diagonally; ______ also refers to the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped.
_______ refers to the angle at which the rod is positioned on the head: horizontally, vertically, or diagonally; ______ also refers to the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped.
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The three most common types of chemical relaxers are _________, ___________, & __________.
The three most common types of chemical relaxers are _________, ___________, & __________.
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Which two relaxers are no-lye relaxers?
Which two relaxers are no-lye relaxers?
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Which relaxer is a lye-based relaxer?
Which relaxer is a lye-based relaxer?
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Relaxers are extremely ________ and can literally melt or dissolve hair if used incorrectly.
Relaxers are extremely ________ and can literally melt or dissolve hair if used incorrectly.
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________ relaxers use the same ATG that is used in permanent waving but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10).
________ relaxers use the same ATG that is used in permanent waving but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10).
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Thio relaxers are also thicker, with a higher _________.
Thio relaxers are also thicker, with a higher _________.
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________ relaxers break disulfide bonds and soften hair, just as in permanents.
________ relaxers break disulfide bonds and soften hair, just as in permanents.
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Which 3 relaxers have a pH of 12.5-13.5?
Which 3 relaxers have a pH of 12.5-13.5?
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Which relaxer has a pH of 13-13.5?
Which relaxer has a pH of 13-13.5?
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Which relaxer has a pH of 9.6-10?
Which relaxer has a pH of 9.6-10?
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Which relaxer has a pH of 6.5-8.5?
Which relaxer has a pH of 6.5-8.5?
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Study Notes
Chemical Texture Services Overview
- Acidic pH is below 7, indicating stronger solutions.
- Alkaline pH exceeds 7, useful for certain chemical processes in hair.
- Chemical solutions alter hair pH to an alkaline state, allowing penetration into the cortex.
Hair Structure and Chemistry
- Cortex contains polypeptide chains; chemical solutions manipulate cuticle and cortex interactions.
- Coarse, resistant hair needs highly alkaline solutions for effective treatment.
- Porous or damaged hair benefits from milder alkaline solutions to prevent additional damage.
- Peptide bonds, also known as end bonds, connect amino acids, forming polypeptide chains.
Hair pH and Bonds
- Healthy hair and skin have a pH range of 4.5-5.5.
- Disulfide bonds are strong chemical side bonds crucial for hair strength.
- Despite fewer in number, disulfide bonds contribute to about one-third of hair's overall strength.
- Salt bonds are weak and susceptible to changes in pH but easily reform.
- Hydrogen bonds are weak and impacted by water or heat, breaking and reforming during hair treatments.
Permanent Waving Process
- Permanent waving alters side bonds without damaging the hair structure.
- Alkaline solutions soften and swell hair, allowing deeper penetration.
- Reduction reactions involve adding hydrogen, breaking disulfide bonds.
- Common reducing agent in permanent waves is thio, specifically in the form of thioglycolic acid.
- The strength of permanent waving solution mainly depends on thio concentration.
Types of Perm Solutions
- Alkaline/cold wave and exothermic wave are suitable for coarse, thick, or resistant hair.
- True acid waves are ideal for porous or very damaged hair.
- Acid-balanced waves fit for porous or damaged hair whereas ammonia-free waves suit porous to normal hair.
- Low-pH waves cater to normal, fine, or lightly damaged hair.
- Ammonium thioglycolate serves as a reducing agent in alkaline waves.
Hair Processing Details
- Initial processing during permanent waving happens within the first 5 to 10 minutes post-application.
- Base placement refers to how the rod relates to its base section; angles impact results.
- Base direction encompasses the position and wrapping pattern of the hair.
Relaxers Types
- Common chemical relaxers include ammonium thioglycolate, guanidine hydroxide, and sodium hydroxide.
- Thio and guanidine are no-lye relaxers, while sodium hydroxide is a lye-based relaxer.
- Relaxers are highly alkaline, potentially damaging hair if misapplied.
- Thio relaxers leverage the same compounds as permanent waves but with higher concentration and pH.
- Viscosity of thio relaxers is greater than that of other types, contributing to their effectiveness.
Relaxer pH Levels
- Sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide have pH levels between 12.5 to 13.5.
- Guanidine hydroxide has a pH of 13-13.5, while ammonium thioglycolate has a pH range of 9.6 to 10.
- Ammonium sulfite/ammonium bisulfite is a gentler relaxer with a pH of 6.5 to 8.5.
Studying That Suits You
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Description
Test your knowledge on chemical texture services with these flashcards covering key terms and definitions from Chapter 20. Perfect for beauty students looking to enhance their understanding of the pH scale and hair structure. Expand your vocabulary and deepen your comprehension in the field of cosmetology.
