Chemical Texture Services Chapter 20

A pH below 7 is ___________.

A pH above 7 is ___________.

Chemical solutions raise the pH of the hair to an ________ state.

Chemical solutions raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state, forcing the cuticle layer to open up so that the solution can reach the ________.

Coarse, resistant hair with a strong, compact cuticle layer requires a highly _________ chemical solution.

Porous, damaged, or chemically treated hair requires a less ________ solution.

_________ link amino acids together in long chains.

Hair and skin has a pH level between __________.

_______ are compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur.

_______ bonds, also known as end bonds, are chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end-to-end in long chains, to form a polypeptide chain.

_______ are long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds.

__________ are long, coiled polypeptide chains.

__________ are disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross link polypeptide chains together.

The ______ is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross linked by three types of bonds: disulfide, salt, and hydrogen.

Side bonds are responsible for the ________ and ________ of the hair.

__________ are strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together.

Although there are far fewer ________ bonds than hydrogen or salt bonds, they are the strongest of the three side bonds, accounting for about one third of the hair's overall strength.

_________ bonds are not affected by water; however, boiling water can break and alter their appearance.

__________ are relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges (ionic bonds); they are easily broken by changes in pH, and they re-form when the pH returns to normal levels.

__________ are broken by changes in pH levels.

________ are weak physical side bonds that are also the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; broken by water or heat & reform as the hair dries or cools.

A correct permanent wave service only alters the _________ bonds.

Alkaline permanent waving solutions ________ and _________ the hair, and they open the cuticle, permitting the solution to penetrate into the cortex.

Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the _______ bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction.

A reduction reaction involves either the addition of __________ or the removal of ________.

The reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to the addition of ________.

What comes first in the process of permanent waving?

All permanent wave solutions contain a reducing agent. The reducing agent, commonly referred to as _______, is used in permanent waving solutions.

__________ is a colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor. It is the most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions.

The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of ________.

Because acids do not swell the hair nor penetrate into the cortex, it is necessary for manufacturers to add an alkalizing agent. The addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces a new chemical named _______, which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.

Coarse hair with a strong, resistant cuticle layer needs the additional swelling and penetration that is provided by a stronger and highly more __________ waving solution.

Porous hair or hair with a damaged cuticle layer is easily penetrated and could be damaged by a highly _______ permanent waving solution.

The alkalinity of the perm solution should correspond to the resistance, strength and ______ of the cuticle layer.

Low-pH waves have a pH of -_.

Alkaline/cold wave & exothermic have a pH of -_.

Thio-free & ammonia free waves have a pH between ____-_____.

True acid wave have a pH between -.

Acid balanced waves have a pH between -.

_____________ is the reducing agent of alkaline waves/cold waves. Processes at room temp without addition of heat.

In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place ____________, within the first ____ to _____ minutes.

Which two types of perms would you use for coarse, thick, or resistant hair?

Which type of perm would you use for extremely porous or very damaged hair?

What type of perm would you use for porous or damaged hair?

What two types of perms would you use for porous to normal hair?

What type of perm would you use for normal, fine or damaged hair?

________ refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section; __________ is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.

For _________, the hair is wrapped 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base.

_______ refers to the angle at which the rod is positioned on the head: horizontally, vertically, or diagonally; ______ also refers to the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped.

The three most common types of chemical relaxers are _________, ___________, & __________.

Which two relaxers are no-lye relaxers?

Which relaxer is a lye-based relaxer?

Relaxers are extremely ________ and can literally melt or dissolve hair if used incorrectly.

________ relaxers use the same ATG that is used in permanent waving but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10).

Thio relaxers are also thicker, with a higher _________.

________ relaxers break disulfide bonds and soften hair, just as in permanents.

Which 3 relaxers have a pH of 12.5-13.5?

Which relaxer has a pH of 13-13.5?

Which relaxer has a pH of 9.6-10?

Which relaxer has a pH of 6.5-8.5?