Chemical Texture Services Chapter 20
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Chemical Texture Services Chapter 20

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Questions and Answers

A pH below 7 is ___________.

acidic

A pH above 7 is ___________.

alkaline

Chemical solutions raise the pH of the hair to an ________ state.

alkaline

Chemical solutions raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state, forcing the cuticle layer to open up so that the solution can reach the ________.

<p>cortex</p> Signup and view all the answers

Coarse, resistant hair with a strong, compact cuticle layer requires a highly _________ chemical solution.

<p>alkaline</p> Signup and view all the answers

Porous, damaged, or chemically treated hair requires a less ________ solution.

<p>alkaline</p> Signup and view all the answers

_________ link amino acids together in long chains.

<p>Peptide bonds</p> Signup and view all the answers

Hair and skin has a pH level between __________.

<p>4.5 and 5.5</p> Signup and view all the answers

_______ are compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur.

<p>Amino acids</p> Signup and view all the answers

_______ bonds, also known as end bonds, are chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end-to-end in long chains, to form a polypeptide chain.

<p>Peptide</p> Signup and view all the answers

_______ are long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds.

<p>Polypeptide chains</p> Signup and view all the answers

__________ are long, coiled polypeptide chains.

<p>Keratin proteins</p> Signup and view all the answers

__________ are disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross link polypeptide chains together.

<p>Side bonds</p> Signup and view all the answers

The ______ is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross linked by three types of bonds: disulfide, salt, and hydrogen.

<p>cortex</p> Signup and view all the answers

Side bonds are responsible for the ________ and ________ of the hair.

<p>elasticity, strength</p> Signup and view all the answers

__________ are strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together.

<p>Disulfide bonds</p> Signup and view all the answers

Although there are far fewer ________ bonds than hydrogen or salt bonds, they are the strongest of the three side bonds, accounting for about one third of the hair's overall strength.

<p>disulfide</p> Signup and view all the answers

_________ bonds are not affected by water; however, boiling water can break and alter their appearance.

<p>Disulfide</p> Signup and view all the answers

__________ are relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges (ionic bonds); they are easily broken by changes in pH, and they re-form when the pH returns to normal levels.

<p>Salt bonds</p> Signup and view all the answers

__________ are broken by changes in pH levels.

<p>Salt bonds</p> Signup and view all the answers

________ are weak physical side bonds that are also the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; broken by water or heat & reform as the hair dries or cools.

<p>Hydrogen bonds</p> Signup and view all the answers

A correct permanent wave service only alters the _________ bonds.

<p>side</p> Signup and view all the answers

Alkaline permanent waving solutions ________ and _________ the hair, and they open the cuticle, permitting the solution to penetrate into the cortex.

<p>soften, swell</p> Signup and view all the answers

Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the _______ bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction.

<p>disulfide</p> Signup and view all the answers

A reduction reaction involves either the addition of __________ or the removal of ________.

<p>hydrogen, oxygen</p> Signup and view all the answers

The reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to the addition of ________.

<p>hydrogen</p> Signup and view all the answers

What comes first in the process of permanent waving?

<p>Permanent wave solution breaks a disulfide bond by adding a hydrogen atom to each of its sulfur atoms.</p> Signup and view all the answers

All permanent wave solutions contain a reducing agent. The reducing agent, commonly referred to as _______, is used in permanent waving solutions.

<p>thio</p> Signup and view all the answers

__________ is a colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor. It is the most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions.

<p>Thioglycolic acid</p> Signup and view all the answers

The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of ________.

<p>thio</p> Signup and view all the answers

Because acids do not swell the hair nor penetrate into the cortex, it is necessary for manufacturers to add an alkalizing agent. The addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces a new chemical named _______, which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.

<p>ammonium thioglycolate or ATG</p> Signup and view all the answers

Coarse hair with a strong, resistant cuticle layer needs the additional swelling and penetration that is provided by a stronger and highly more __________ waving solution.

<p>alkaline</p> Signup and view all the answers

Porous hair or hair with a damaged cuticle layer is easily penetrated and could be damaged by a highly _______ permanent waving solution.

<p>alkaline</p> Signup and view all the answers

The alkalinity of the perm solution should correspond to the resistance, strength and ______ of the cuticle layer.

<p>porosity</p> Signup and view all the answers

Low-pH waves have a pH of -_.

<p>6.5 to 7</p> Signup and view all the answers

Alkaline/cold wave & exothermic have a pH of -_.

<p>9.0 to 9.6</p> Signup and view all the answers

Thio-free & ammonia free waves have a pH between ____-_____.

<p>7.0 to 9.6</p> Signup and view all the answers

True acid wave have a pH between -.

<p>4.5 to 7.0</p> Signup and view all the answers

Acid balanced waves have a pH between -.

<p>7.8 to 8.2</p> Signup and view all the answers

_____________ is the reducing agent of alkaline waves/cold waves. Processes at room temp without addition of heat.

<p>Ammonium thioglycolate</p> Signup and view all the answers

In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place ____________, within the first ____ to _____ minutes.

<p>as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, 5, 10</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which two types of perms would you use for coarse, thick, or resistant hair?

<p>Alkaline/cold wave</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which type of perm would you use for extremely porous or very damaged hair?

<p>True acid wave</p> Signup and view all the answers

What type of perm would you use for porous or damaged hair?

<p>Acid balanced wave</p> Signup and view all the answers

What two types of perms would you use for porous to normal hair?

<p>Thio-free wave</p> Signup and view all the answers

What type of perm would you use for normal, fine or damaged hair?

<p>Low pH wave</p> Signup and view all the answers

________ refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section; __________ is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.

<p>Base placement, base direction</p> Signup and view all the answers

For _________, the hair is wrapped 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base.

<p>on base placement</p> Signup and view all the answers

_______ refers to the angle at which the rod is positioned on the head: horizontally, vertically, or diagonally; ______ also refers to the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped.

<p>Base direction, base placement</p> Signup and view all the answers

The three most common types of chemical relaxers are _________, ___________, & __________.

<p>ammonium thio, guanidine hydroxide, sodium hydroxide</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which two relaxers are no-lye relaxers?

<p>Guanidine</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which relaxer is a lye-based relaxer?

<p>Sodium hydroxide</p> Signup and view all the answers

Relaxers are extremely ________ and can literally melt or dissolve hair if used incorrectly.

<p>alkaline</p> Signup and view all the answers

________ relaxers use the same ATG that is used in permanent waving but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10).

<p>Thio</p> Signup and view all the answers

Thio relaxers are also thicker, with a higher _________.

<p>viscosity</p> Signup and view all the answers

________ relaxers break disulfide bonds and soften hair, just as in permanents.

<p>Thio</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which 3 relaxers have a pH of 12.5-13.5?

<p>Guanidine hydroxide</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which relaxer has a pH of 13-13.5?

<p>Guanidine hydroxide</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which relaxer has a pH of 9.6-10?

<p>Ammonium thioglycolate</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which relaxer has a pH of 6.5-8.5?

<p>Ammonium sulfite</p> Signup and view all the answers

Study Notes

Chemical Texture Services Overview

  • Acidic pH is below 7, indicating stronger solutions.
  • Alkaline pH exceeds 7, useful for certain chemical processes in hair.
  • Chemical solutions alter hair pH to an alkaline state, allowing penetration into the cortex.

Hair Structure and Chemistry

  • Cortex contains polypeptide chains; chemical solutions manipulate cuticle and cortex interactions.
  • Coarse, resistant hair needs highly alkaline solutions for effective treatment.
  • Porous or damaged hair benefits from milder alkaline solutions to prevent additional damage.
  • Peptide bonds, also known as end bonds, connect amino acids, forming polypeptide chains.

Hair pH and Bonds

  • Healthy hair and skin have a pH range of 4.5-5.5.
  • Disulfide bonds are strong chemical side bonds crucial for hair strength.
  • Despite fewer in number, disulfide bonds contribute to about one-third of hair's overall strength.
  • Salt bonds are weak and susceptible to changes in pH but easily reform.
  • Hydrogen bonds are weak and impacted by water or heat, breaking and reforming during hair treatments.

Permanent Waving Process

  • Permanent waving alters side bonds without damaging the hair structure.
  • Alkaline solutions soften and swell hair, allowing deeper penetration.
  • Reduction reactions involve adding hydrogen, breaking disulfide bonds.
  • Common reducing agent in permanent waves is thio, specifically in the form of thioglycolic acid.
  • The strength of permanent waving solution mainly depends on thio concentration.

Types of Perm Solutions

  • Alkaline/cold wave and exothermic wave are suitable for coarse, thick, or resistant hair.
  • True acid waves are ideal for porous or very damaged hair.
  • Acid-balanced waves fit for porous or damaged hair whereas ammonia-free waves suit porous to normal hair.
  • Low-pH waves cater to normal, fine, or lightly damaged hair.
  • Ammonium thioglycolate serves as a reducing agent in alkaline waves.

Hair Processing Details

  • Initial processing during permanent waving happens within the first 5 to 10 minutes post-application.
  • Base placement refers to how the rod relates to its base section; angles impact results.
  • Base direction encompasses the position and wrapping pattern of the hair.

Relaxers Types

  • Common chemical relaxers include ammonium thioglycolate, guanidine hydroxide, and sodium hydroxide.
  • Thio and guanidine are no-lye relaxers, while sodium hydroxide is a lye-based relaxer.
  • Relaxers are highly alkaline, potentially damaging hair if misapplied.
  • Thio relaxers leverage the same compounds as permanent waves but with higher concentration and pH.
  • Viscosity of thio relaxers is greater than that of other types, contributing to their effectiveness.

Relaxer pH Levels

  • Sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide have pH levels between 12.5 to 13.5.
  • Guanidine hydroxide has a pH of 13-13.5, while ammonium thioglycolate has a pH range of 9.6 to 10.
  • Ammonium sulfite/ammonium bisulfite is a gentler relaxer with a pH of 6.5 to 8.5.

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Test your knowledge on chemical texture services with these flashcards covering key terms and definitions from Chapter 20. Perfect for beauty students looking to enhance their understanding of the pH scale and hair structure. Expand your vocabulary and deepen your comprehension in the field of cosmetology.

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