ระบบการตั้งชื่อส่วนประกอบเครื่องสำอาง

Cosmetic Ingredient Nomenclature

• This presentation covers the naming systems for cosmetic ingredients, focusing on the International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) system.
• The objectives are to understand the chemical naming system and the rules used for naming chemicals in the INCI system.

Nomenclature Systems

• CAS Number: Assigned by the Chemical Abstracts Service, a unique code used for identifying chemical substances globally. For instance, Ammonia anhydrous has the CAS number 7664-41-7.
• EINECS/ELINCS Number: Numerical codes from the European Inventory of Existing Commercial Chemical Substances (EINECS) for existing chemicals or the European List of Notified Chemical Substances (ELINCS) for new chemicals. These are used where applicable.
• IUPAC (International): A systematic method of naming chemical names developed by the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry, used in combination with CAS numbers to avoid duplication. Example: ethyl alcohol/ hexane.

Historical Note

• 1940s: The Toilet Goods Association (TGA) first recognized the need for a standardized system for naming cosmetic ingredients.
• 1935-1971: TGA evolved to Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association (CTFA).
• 1970s: CTFA developed a uniform naming system for cosmetic ingredients.
• 1973: The 1st edition of the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary was published.
• 1991: The 4th edition of the dictionary was adopted by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), increasing the systems global usage.
• 1993: CTFA changed the name to the International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI)
• 1994-present: The EU and other countries adopted INCI.
• 1997: The 7th edition of the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook was released.

INCI: General and Specific Conventions

• The INCI system uses general conventions for common naming terms and specific naming system for particular groups.

Alkyl Groupings

• Fatty Acids: The common names are paired with the number of carbons in the molecules, followed by the term acid (example: 12 carbons in lauric acid).
• Fatty Alcohols: In the same fashion as the fatty acids, the common names are paired with the number of carbons in the molecules, the ending is "yl alcohol" example: cetyl alcohol.
• Branched-chain (iso): Iso- is used as a prefix when naming branched carbon chains e.g. 18-C branched chain carboxylic acid (called ISO-stearic acid for example).

Other Specific Conventions

• Alkanolamides
• Alkoxylated Materials
• Amphoteric compounds
• Ceramides
• Glycerides
• Lanolin derivatives
• Polymers
• Quaternary ammonium salts
• Silane and Siloxanes
• Substituted Compounds
• Synthetic peptides

Differences in IUPAC and INCI Systems

• Specific terms for fatty acids and fatty alcohols may differ between the two systems. For instance, in the saturated series of fatty acids and alcohols, compare carbon 6 of Hexane to caproic acid and hexyl alcohol

Esters and Ethers

• Esters are formed from carboxylic acids and alcohols; they are named by identifying the alkyl group of the alcohol, followed by the acid name with the suffix "-ate". Ex, cetyl laurate.
• Ethers are formed from alcohols and are named by adding the suffix "-eth" to the alcohol stem, followed by the moles of epoxide in the polymeric portion. Ex, ceteth-20.

Polymers

• Homopolymers consist of a single type of monomer; named by adding the prefix "poly" to the monomer name.
• Copolymers contain two or more different monomers; the monomers are separated by a forward slash, followed by the suffix "copolymer".
• Crosspolymers similarly to copolymers, contain more than one type of co-monomer but the distinguishing feature is the cross-linking which occurs when multiple monomers are joined together in a non-linear fashion.

Silanes and Siloxanes

• Silicon-based substances used in personal care products for various functions.
• Silanes have single silicon atoms; they are named according to the functional groups attached.
• Siloxanes have multiple silicon atoms, usually in a polymeric chain. They are more commonly known by the generic term "silicone".

Substituted Compounds

• These are compounds with added functional groups. Names are based on the functional groups and the stem name of the parent structure plus the number of groups as prefixes (e.g., di-, tri- etc.).

Synthetic Peptides

• Short chains of amino acids composed of 2 - 10 amino acids (peptides). 中間的分子會被叫做 oligopeptides.
• Long chains of 11-100 amino acids form oligopeptides.
• Polypeptides are composed of more than 100 amino acids .

Amphoteric Compounds

• Amphoteric compounds contain both a positive charge and a negative charge depending on the environment. Betaine and imidazoline are common examples.

Ceramides

• Ceramides are naturally occurring, complex sphingolipids in the epidermal skin cells .
• They are named based on the combination of sphingo-id components and the length of the fatty acid chain.

Glycerides

• These are esters of glycerol, a three-carbon alcohol, and fatty acids. They can be mono-, di-, or triglycerides, depending on how many fatty acids are attached.
• Monoglycerides, Diglycerides and Triglycerides.

Other substances

• Alcohols
• Chemical Functional Group
• Nomenclature
• Nomenclature Systems
• Polymers

การนำเสนอครั้งนี้ครอบคลุมระบบการตั้งชื่อส่วนประกอบเครื่องสำอาง โดยเน้นที่ระบบ INCI รวมถึงระบบ CAS, EINECS/ELINCS และ IUPAC เพื่อให้เข้าใจกระบวนการตั้งชื่อที่ถูกต้องและมีประสิทธิภาพในอุตสาหกรรมเครื่องสำอาง