LEC 3_MK (Vanishing creams - foundation creams - powders) PDF

SKIN CARE & COSMETOLOGY Prepared by: Dr. Maha El-kayal Lecturer of Pharmaceutics & Pharmaceutical Technology LECTURE OVERVIEW: Vanishing & Foundation Creams Non-aqueous Foundation COSMETIC POWDERS 1- Toilet Face Powders 2- Deodorant powder 3- Baby powder ...

SKIN CARE & COSMETOLOGY Prepared by: Dr. Maha El-kayal Lecturer of Pharmaceutics & Pharmaceutical Technology LECTURE OVERVIEW: Vanishing & Foundation Creams Non-aqueous Foundation COSMETIC POWDERS 1- Toilet Face Powders 2- Deodorant powder 3- Baby powder  Cosmetics Creams Vanishing & Foundation Creams Vanishing & foundation creams are functional names for skin creams used during the day, be invisible/vanish on application. If used under make-up, it is used to provide a suitable adherent bases for the powder.  Vanishing Creams ✓ These are an o/w type of emulsions which when applied to the skin leave an almost invisible layer on it, therefore called vanishing creams. ✓ They can be quickly washed off with water due to the presence of o/w emulsifiers. ✓ They spread easily & seem to disappear rapidly when rubbed on skin, leaving a non-greasy & shiny film on the skin.  Vanishing Creams An oil-in-water emulsion containing potassium or sodium stearate with water and holding in emulsified form more or less free stearic acid.  Vanishing Creams Main components: Stearic acid The major component of vanishing cream - ( must be of good quality) It gives a pearly white shining appearance to the cream, after application gives thin white film of free stearic acid. Soap formed in-situ by the reaction between a suitable alkali and stearic acid ( determines hardness of the cream Ex: KOH, NaOH, Borax, triethanolamine Humectants Glycerin most favored followed by sorbitol and propylene glycol Prevents excessive drying out of cream, due to o/w type product  Stearic acid provides the oil phase of the cream, which melts above body temperature and crystallizes in an invisible form, forming a non-greasy film Only 20-30% of stearic acid is neutralized by the alkali Emulsifier (IN SITU), while the rest acts as the oily phase.  Properties of alkalis used in formulation: KOH is the mostly used alkali, since it produces a cream of fine texture without excessive harshness. NaOH or KOH when used alone form a hard cream, hence they are always used in combination Borax produces white creams. However, it has a distinct tendency to grain. Therefore, it is used in combination with KOH or triethanolamine to form white emulsion. FOUNDATION Creams  FOUNDATION Creams - Creams which provide emollient base or foundation to skin to hold the powder or other make up above it. - Vary widely in viscosity (from pourable lotions to thicker creams). - They can be pigmented or unpigmented, usually prepared by incorporating powders like titanium dioxide (2-5%), kaolin, bentonite and pigments. - Requirements: ✓ It must spread well, ✓ Possess good holding for powders and tinted makeup, ✓ Non-greasy ✓ Leave a non-occlusive film on the face.  FOUNDATION Creams Ingredients are similar to that of vanishing creams. The basic formula of foundation creams are based on stearic acid which is partially saponified with an alkali, while the bulk of fatty acid is emulsified with the soap that is formed. Fatty materials are often included in order to reduce the drying effect on the skin. Fatty material: Cetyl alcohol (emollient + emulsifying agent ) Glyceryl monostearate (emollient + emulsifying agent ) Mineral oil (fatty material) Glycerin (Humectant help water retention)  Non-aqueous Foundation: Used to cover the skin with a heavier layer Referred to as cream cake foundation. Prepared as solid creams similar to a pressed powder They are thixotropic, ie: formulated to liquefy readily when rubbed to the skin. Thixotropy is achieved by using isopropyl myristate in a mixture of waxes to reach a suitable melting point. What is Thixotropy: It is a time-dependent shear thinning property, where certain fluids that are viscous under static conditions will become less viscous over time when shaken. Then, they take some time to return to a more viscous state. COSMETIC POWDERS 1- Toilet Face Powders Gives a smooth finish to the skin. Masks minor skin imperfections and any shine due to moisture or grease either from perspiration or from preparations used on the skin. It has fine particle size & light weight. Powder particles must not be hard and their crystals must not have sharp edges to avoid skin damaging. They must not be irritant or toxic, and must be chemically neutral. Requirements of a Good Face Powder Adheres perfectly to the skin. Good coverage to hide skin imperfections. Sufficient slip to enable powder spread on the skin by puffing No shiny look at the T-zone. Transparency so as not to give clown-like effect. Protective against ultraviolet rays. Components of Face Powder  Components of Face Powder Most commonly used powder base TALC Must be completely free of spores of pathogenic organisms (e.g. tetanus), simply by sterilization Easy slip and low covering. Grease-resistant & perspiration-absorbent. KAOLIN Remove the shine of talc Has soothing effects on the skin. Hygroscopic, hence should not exceed 25% Good coverage Precipitated Chalk Grease-resistant & perspiration-absorbent. (Calcium Carbonate): Produces bloom effect when powder is applied When used in excess, powder acquires a dry feel, thus must be used moderately.  Components of Face Powder Good adhesive & waterproofing properties. magnesium stearate Highest quality should be used to avoid rancid and disagreeable odor. possesses a soothing quality. help to clear up minor skin disorders. Zinc Oxide: Excessive use can cause mask like effect, and leave the skin dry. a formulation may consist of as much as 25%. Is 3-4 times better coverage than zinc oxide. Titanium Dioxide: Used alone or in conjunction with zinc oxide. 10 to 15 % titanium dioxide in preparation will allow for sufficient covering.  Components of Face Powder Pigments: The use of color is important in face powder in order to compliment all skin tones, where The quantity of color required depends on the type of base used in the formula. Bismuth oxychloride (synthetic pigment) Metallic powders (mica, aluminum, bronze): are used to formulate powders with a sheen. Synthetic iron oxide: red, yellow & brown Face powders are either: compressed into a cake that is applied with a powder puff. Raw Materials: Binding Agent 1. Dry binders. 2. Oil binders. 3. Water-soluble binders. 4. Water-repellent binders. 5. Emulsion binders. 1. Materials which impart adhesion: Magnesium stearate more adhesive than the zinc salt, it is often preferred for high quality face powders, give to the powder an attractive velvety softness. Adhesion of powders is sometimes improved by adding 1-2% petrolatum, cetyl alcohol, lanolin. 2. Materials which impart coverage: Titanium dioxide zinc oxide. Kaolin zinc & magnesium stearates. Starch 3. Materials which impart absorbency: Kaolin: good absorbent capacity for aqueous and fatty substances Bentonite: extraordinary swelling powder and is able to absorb up to 15% times its own weight water. Calcium carbonate: good absorbent powder for water and fatty substances and is fine, white and soft. Starch: (rice, wheat, corn, potato..) has good moisture absorbency and good adhesion, neutral reaction and is completely non toxic.  2- Talc powder It acts as an efficient lubricant , preventive and tends to relieve any skin irritation. It should be : 1. Pure. 2. Slippery characteristics 3. Lustrous appearance  3- Deodorant powder Containing zinc & zinc stearate for their mild astringent effect Bactericide: eg: chlorohexidine diacetetate to reduce proliferation of the micro-organisms responsible for development of perspiration odor. 4- Baby powder Talc powder usually contain an antiseptic material as Boric acid.