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Lesson 1: USE OF SEWING TOOLS AND LEARNING OUTCOMES: At the end of this Lesson, you are expected to do the following: LO 1. Identify sewing tools and equipment Definition of Terms Altering - changing portion of a garment so that it fits the body Cutting tools - a cutting implement; a...
Lesson 1: USE OF SEWING TOOLS AND LEARNING OUTCOMES: At the end of this Lesson, you are expected to do the following: LO 1. Identify sewing tools and equipment Definition of Terms Altering - changing portion of a garment so that it fits the body Cutting tools - a cutting implement; a tool for cutting. Fabric - the cloth used in making garments. Measuring tools - instruments used for obtaining quantities, dimensions or forces of real world objects. Sewing Machine - a textile machine used to stitch fabric, cards and other material with thread. Sewing Tools and Equipment Sewing equipment & different tools are used in garment construction. The skillful use of the different sewing equipment will help take body measurement and drafting pattern with accuracy and speed. Success in sewing calls for the right tools at the right time. All tools must be appropriate in a proper order and one must know how to use them to save time and produce the best result. This lesson will provide knowledge and skills of the different tools and equipment which are necessary in sewing. A complete set of sewing MEASURING TOOLS Tape Measure A flexible measuring device used in taking body measurements. The front has the measurement of 150 centimeters and 60 inches on the other side. Fiberglass tape is commonly used by Ruler dressmakers. A ruler measuring 12 inches or even 18 inches, either clear or solid. It is a useful tool to have for measuring and drawing straight seam lines and cutting lines. It also aids in connecting lines. A clear Yardstick A yardstick is made of smooth, shellacked hardwood or metal. It is used for marking hemlines and checking grainlines when laying out the pattern. L-square The tailor square or "L" is used to transfer measurements to the draft pattern. It also divides the garment into the desired measurement. It has perfect squares and is useful in making straight lines and numbers. It can also function as a tape measure. It has two arms connected perpendicularly. a. The longer arm is twenty-four French Curve This is used to shape the depth of the neckhole and armhole of the pattern. Hip Curve This is used to shape slightly curve parts such as the hip line. CUTTING TOOLS -Cutting tools are instruments that serve well if properly maintained. -Sharp cutting tools make clean cuts and well-defined notches and they do not damage fabric. -Dull tools slow the cutting process, and make your hand and wrist tire easily. - - -Sewing cutting tools should not be used for other household task. -Cutting tools must be sharpened regularly and the joints are Bent-handled dressmaker’s shears These are made of quality steel and hold a sharp cutting edge. The blades move easily and cut smoothly along the entire length and the points should come together. Shears have the length of 7- 12 inches and are satisfactory for most apparel fabrics. a. All steels, chrome-plated shears are for heavy duty cutting b. Stainless steel blades and plastic handles are fine for lightweight fabrics Pinking Shears This is popular in zigzagging or scalloped edge or for seam finishes. This is used to finish seams and raw edges and to create decorative edges on many types of fabric. It cuts a ravel- resistant edge. This is not satisfactory for straight cutting. Cutting scissors a. Trimming scissor It is 3-4 inches long. It is used for trimmings, clipping threads and snipping slashes. b. Embroidery scissor It has 4-5 inches finely tapered blades. Both points are sharp for use in working with fine details in delicate fabrics and in embroidery work. . Buttonhole scissor c This is intended for making buttonholes. Thread Clippers Thread clippers are a handy little spring loaded cutting tool that allows for the snipping of threads. These clippers are specifically used to snip threads and they are not designed to cut fabric. Seam Ripper Seam rippers are specifically designed for ripping out stitches from seams, either as a result of an error or during alterations. They should be used carefully to prevent damage to the fabric. MARKING TOOLS Marking tools are required for transferring pattern markings to garment fabric pieces and for making alterations on garments. Chalk Pencils/Dressmaker pencil This is available in white or pastel shades. This chalk pencil is used to make fine lines on fabric. ItTailor’s has an erasing Chalk brush at one end. This is essential as a marker for use on materials. Tailor‘s chalk is available in a range of colors and is Removed by brushing. racing Wheel T There are two types of tracing wheels, those with a serrated edge and those with a smooth edge. The serrated edge wheel produces dots on the fabric and is suitable for most types of fabrics. The smooth edge wheel is best for delicate fabrics and unlike the serrated edge will not pierce more delicate fabrics. The smooth edge wheel ressmaker’s Carbon Paper D Dressmaker`s carbon paper also called dressmaker`s tracing paper is a specially waxed carbon paper that transfer the tracing wheel`s marking to the fabric. A color of tracing paper should be chosen that is close to the color of the fabric. Different brands of tracing paper have different instructions; therefore, the instructions for the PINNING AND SEWING TOOL Pincushion A pincushion holds the straight pins and needles while working to prevent accidents. Hand Needle Used in making temporary stitches and buttonholes. Sizes of 7 to 10 are for general hand sewing. Thimble A small hard pitted cup worn for protection on the finger that pushes the needle in sewing. MATERI Fabric ALS The Fabric is the cloth used in making garments. The plain cotton fabrics, flour sack or catcha is the most appropriate material for beginners because these are very easy to handle. Thread The thread is used in assembling or constructing the parts of the garment. Threads vary in sizes. Heavy fabrics need stronger threads. Threads should have the same color with that of the fabric used. TYPES OF SEWING MACHINE Well-selected sewing machine is essential for achieving good results. It should be used correctly in accordance with the job requirements. 1. Lockstitch Sewing Machine. This is usually used in homes and sometimes in school. This is also called ―Domestic Sewing Machine. It is run by foot and may also be converted to electric power 2. Hi-Speed Lockstitch Sewing Machine. This is sometimes called “straight stitching machine” or “industrial sewing machine”. It has automatic lubrication and is used by 3. Over Edging Machine. Other companies call it ―small machine. It finishes the raw edges of the pattern for construction. 4. Embroidery Machine. This is used in making fancy stitches and in making different kinds of embroidery stitches on fabrics for the Barong 5. Button Holer Machine. This is used in making buttonholes on garments. 6. Button Attachment Machine. This is used in attaching buttons to the garments. 7. Double Needle Machine. This is used in the construction of the different kinds of clothing especially for the inseam, outseam and side 8. Bartacking Machine. This is used in reinforcing the opening and closing of pockets. Mini-Electric Sewing Machine (Portable Sewing Machine) Major Parts of the Lockstitch Sewing Machine The two major parts of the lock stitch sewing machine are the upper and lower parts. The Upper Parts is composed of: 1. Head is the complete sewing machine without a cabinet or stand. 2. Arm is the curve part of the head containing mechanism for operating the needle. Parts of the Sewing Machine in the Arm 1. Spool Pin is the thread holder. 2. Thread Guide keeps the thread in position. 3. Thread Take up Lever releases the thread and interlocks with the 4. Presser bar lifter moves the presser foot. 5. Tension controls the looseness and tightness of stitches. 6. Needle Bar holds the needle in place. 7. Needle Clamp holds and tightens the needle. Parts of the Sewing Machine in the Arm 8. Presser Foot holds the fabric in place while sewing. 9. Needle is a slender tool attached in the needle clamp used for sewing. 10. Bobbin Winder controls the bobbin while winding thread. Parts of the Sewing Machine in the Arm 11. Stitch regulator checks the length of the stitches. 12. Balance Wheel sets the mechanism in motion. Parts of the Sewing Machine in the Arm 13. Belt connects the balance wheel to the drive wheel. 14. Stop Motion Screw hinders moving when loosened and starts Parts of Sewing Machine under the Bed Feed Dog moves the fabric while sewing. Throat plate is the windows of the feed dog and it is where the bobbin threads come out. Slide plate is a movable plate that covers the Parts of Sewing Machine under the Bed 5. Shuttle holds the bobbin case while sewing. 6. Bobbin is a metal spool for winding thread. 7. Bobbin Case holds the bobbin. The Lower Parts of the Lock Stitch Sewing Machine The lower parts of the sewing machine are the cabinet and the stand. The cabinet has drawers and screw on the hinges for the attachment of the head. 1. Band Wheel leads the balance wheel through the belt connection. 2. Band Wheel Crank moves the band wheel. 3. Pitman Rod holds the treadle to band wheel crank. The Lower Parts of the Lock Stitch Sewing Machine 4. Belt Guide holds the belt to its place. 5. Belt Shifter removes the belt from the wheel. 6. Dress Guard protects the dress from the wheel. 7. Treadle is where the feet are stationed to drive the band wheel through the pitman rod. 8. Legs support the cabinet of the machine. 9. Cabinet holds the head of the machine by interlocking screw on the hinges. Lockstitch Sewing Machine Hi-Speed Lockstitch Sewing Machine.