Textile 1. Fabrics PDF

Textile 1. Fabrics Plant yarn: +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ | | best | wrong | +=======================+=======================+=======================+ | **Cotton** | The best is natur...

Textile 1. Fabrics Plant yarn: +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ | | best | wrong | +=======================+=======================+=======================+ | **Cotton** | The best is natural | The worst is highly | | | and very resistant it | flammable and creases | | From the cotton | absorbs water easily | easily it requires an | | flower | | enormous amount of | | | Organic cotton | water | | There are several | thrives on natural | | | specific, but only 4 | fertilizers that | Sometimes they use | | are exploited | maintain soil | many chemical | | | fertility and it is | products to grow | | Usually from China | very easy to recycle | faster the cotton | +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ | **Linen** | The best grows | The worst is low | | | without irrigation or | thermal insulation | | From the flower of | chemical inputs it is | which makes it the | | linen | very strong and very | preferred choice in | | | light making it | summer it creases | | It is obtained after | comfortable to wear | very easily and | | flowering must | | there's a lot of | | undergo retting which | | waste because the | | allows the flower to | | threads are always | | degrade naturally | | irregular | | through exposure to | | | | sunlight or rain are | | | | then ground to | | | | release the fibres | | | +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ | **Hemp** | France accounts for | It feels rough after | | | 50% of world | treatment | | Often confused with | production | | | cannabis same | | There are techniques | | botanical family | the best is the most | to make it more | | | environmentally | comfortable to wear | | It is known as Indian | friendly fiber in | but they are very | | hemp for textile it | existence its | expensive or chemical | | is agricultural hemp | cultivation requires | | | | no chemical treatment | | | It is industrialized | | | | and processed in the | It can be processed | | | same way as flax | in many ways | | +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ | Jute | Producing 1kg of jute | It needs a very hot | | | requires 125 times | humid climate for | | Nickname golden fiber | less water than | production | | | producing 1kg of | | | It grows mostly in | cotton | Its use is still very | | Bangladesh and India | | limited for clothing | | | It's a material that | because it has a | | Second most widely | respects the land and | rough surface that | | frown textile plant | the farmers and | makes it | | after cotton | craftspeople who used | uncomfortable to wear | | | to pass on their | | | It is used to make | skills from | Not use to make | | ropes and cloth for | generation to | fabrics | | the food industry | generation | | | | | | | | Jute fabric is also a | | | | strong, durable | | | | material, resistant | | | | to tearing, | | | | stretching | | | | | | | | It is cheaper than | | | | hemp | | +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ 2. Animal fabrics: +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ | | Best | Worst | +=======================+=======================+=======================+ | Wool | Australia is the most | Depending on the | | | productive in wool | quality of the yarn | | It comes from the | | and the way it is | | fleece of sheep | It's the only | washed it can easily | | | material that is | become piled | | Certain parts of its | washed before doing | | | body can produce | anything else | It is very sensitive | | different types of | | to moths | | wool | It gives comfort, | | | | suppleness and | Animals can be | | There are several | softness | mistreated depending | | types of wool: | | on how they are | | | It doesn't crease | reared | | Lambswool | very easily and it's | | | | very flammable | | | Merinos | | | | | | | | Astrakhan | | | | | | | | Unthreatened wool | | | | | | | | Organic wool | | | +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ | Cashmere | It gives comfort, | Maintenance is tricky | | | softness and silky | | | It is the down | feel | High demand | | collected once a year | | undermines the | | from a breed of goat | The yarn provides | fibre's legendary | | found on the high | very high levels of | quality | | plateau of Asia | thermal insulation | | | | | The high demand is | | Mongolia and China | If it's recycled | degrading farming | | are the main | cashmere it's even | conditions and | | producers | better because it | disrupting the | | | means it lasts over | landscape | | It was a luxury | time and the yarn is | | | product but is has | of good quality | The number of goats | | been democratized and | | has increased | | can now be found in | | exhausting the land | | fast fashion | | and leading to | | | | desertification | | Making a jumper | | | | requires at least 5 | | | | goats | | | +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ | Angora wool | It gives comfort and | The care is tricky | | | a silky feel | because these items | | Comes from a | | are very hairy | | particular breed of | Yarns provide very | | | rabbit | high levels of | This yarn has no | | | thermal insulation | elasticity and tends | | It is very hairy | while retaining a | to come loose | | | light feel | | | The fibers are very | | Wearing them has | | fine and light and | | become a taboo | | naturally white | | because of the | | | | shocking videos | | They generally blend | | | | well with other | | | | fibers | | | | | | | | It is used less | | | | because of animal | | | | rights activists | | | +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ | Silk | Silk has slippery | It's a fabric that | | | silky feel | gets very electric | | Comes from a cocoon | | | | of a butterfly | It is very supple, | The price is high | | caterpillar called a | strong, soft and | | | silkworm | comfortable | Silkworm rearing | | | | raises questions of | | The best one is from | It absorbs | animal welfare | | China | perspiration and | | | | retains heat | | | The longer the fiber | | | | is the more expensive | | | | is the silk | | | | | | | | The luxury sector | | | | loves this material | | | | for its fluidity, | | | | lightness, strength | | | | and insulation | | | | properties | | | +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ | Leather | the agri-food | Intensive livestock | | | industry is the first | farming is one of the | | The production of | supplier to have | primary sources of | | skins is | implemented a form of | climate change and | | traditionally | recycling | leather is the second | | associated with | | | | hunting, livestock | leather is prized for | Traceability is very | | farming and the food | its natural strength | difficult to achieve | | chain | and durability, | | | | making it a | Tanning affects the | | Leathers are most | particularly | health of the workers | | often made from cows | sustainable raw | and the waste water | | but also from | material | discharged is | | peccary, ostrich, | | extremely polluting | | reptile or fish skins | leather can easily be | | | | repaired to extend | Vegetable tanning is | | The first evidence of | its lifespan by | also a less polluting | | the use of leather | shoemakers or other | alternative but | | dates back to | specialist | requires the | | prehistoric times | | consumption of a lot | | | leather clothing is | of water and longer | | The leather could be | timeless | technical processes | | hardened by drying it | | | | by the fire | | | +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ 3. Synthetic fabrics: +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ | Viscose | Highly valued for | All these materials | | | their durability, | are from petroleum | | It is obtained from | affordability and | and the petrochemical | | chemically | ease to maintenance | industry is the | | transformed wood pulp | | world's biggest | | | They are easy to mix | polluter | | It is widely used | | | | throughout the | Synthetic fibers can | All its materials are | | textile industry | be produced from | polluting from | | | renewable natural | manufacture to | | It always shrinks in | | washing because they | | the wash | | release | | | | micro-particles | | | | | | | | Most of these | | | | materials shine and | | | | wrinkle easily | +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ | Lyocell | | | | | | | | Often called Tencel | | | | | | | | It is likely viscose | | | | crafted from wood | | | | pulp | | | | | | | | It is very good | | | | replacement for silk | | | | at a lower cost | | | | | | | | It is the softness of | | | | the synthetic | | | | materials | | | +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ | Polyamide | | | | | | | | Also called nylon | | | | | | | | Obtained from | | | | products extracted | | | | from petroleum | | | | | | | | Often used for | | | | underwear and | | | | sportwear | | | | | | | | Can be used to | | | | produce bright colors | | | | in dyeing | | | | | | | | It is very strong and | | | | supple but it can | | | | become electric very | | | | quickly | | | +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ | Acrylic | | | | | | | | Obtained from | | | | products extracted | | | | from petroleum | | | | | | | | It is available in | | | | several forms, matte | | | | or glossy | | | | | | | | It gives a real | | | | lightness and it ages | | | | the least well | | | +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ | Polyester | | | | | | | | Most widely produced | | | | in the world | | | | | | | | 70% is used for | | | | clothing | | | | | | | | It exists in several | | | | forms, matt, | | | | semi-matt or gloss | | | | | | | | It is very strong and | | | | can be considered | | | | very durable | | | +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ | Elasthane | | | | | | | | Present in all | | | | garments | | | | | | | | It is barely visible | | | | in its spinning | | | | | | | | It has the virtues of | | | | extensibility and | | | | elasticity it can be | | | | stretched up to 400 | | | | times and return very | | | | easily to its initial | | | | position | | | | | | | | It conforms to the | | | | chape of the body but | | | | cannot be dyed | | | +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ | | | | +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ **THE 7 LIVES OF CLOTHES** 1. from the fiber to the yarn the spining Washing and soaking detangling combing 2. from the yarn to a real thread The flyer frame stretching winding 3. from the yarn to the fabric Preparation of the real thread warping gluing textile tucking knitting checking of the first meters 4. textile finishing Transformation ungluing white dying 5. The dyeing Yarn dyeing fabric dyeing garment dyeing impression 6. Finishing For improving the quality and resistance Specific needs WOVEN FABRICS A perpendicular crossing of two sets of yarns Structured or jacquard? Structured: - Weave on machine which are equipped with a order system - It uses electronic or mechanical device called a dobby - The structured will be exactly the same on all the width of the fabric - We can change the structure and have 3 options (canva, twill and satin) Jacquard: - The structured are weave on machine equipped with a order system - It uses electronic or mechanical device called a dobby - It comes from a sketch or a draw - Unlike the structure fabrics there are no limits on creation, design or possibilities - There's a lot more work steps (drawing, layout of the map, assign the colors and putting it together) THE FUNDAMENTALS OF STRUCTURED  Canva: Weave with the smallest weave ration The oldest, most widely used, most demanding and strongest weave Weave with neither front nor back Most popular: - Flanelle - Taffetas - Mousseline - Organza - Chambray - Popeline - Oxford - Crêpe - Georgette Twill: Structure with prominent ribs separated by optical furrows The front and back of the fabric are clearly distinguishable A compromise between satin and canvas It is very important to apply a finish to prevent it from distorting Good resistance and durability Diagonal appearance Most popular: - Gabardine - Denim - Herringbone - Houndstooth pattern - Tweed Satin: Coated armor with a shiny surface produced by floats every 5 warp effects The most supple and shiny weave Excellent fall as the surface is very smooth It wears more quickly than it tears more easily KNITEAR Knitting is the art of looping one or more threads to form stitches that are interwoven in a well-defined sequence called binding The gauge The number of needles per inch of needle bed The notion of gauge characterizes the distance between two needles and by extension the size of the stitches The higher the gauge, the finer the knitted fabric The finer the gauge the thicker the knitted fabric  Flat bed knitting machines The carriage, driven by an electric motor, moves several yarn guides that feed the needles They knit for example the components of a cardigan or t-shir With gauges from 3 to 12 they are specifically designed and equipped for the production of rectangular or shaped panels, trimmings for sweaters and similar items