Fibres Classification & Production Methods PDF

FIBRES ------ Textile fibre - Natural or synthetic - **longer than it is wide** - **can be spun into yarn or made into textiles by other methods** **CLASSIFICATION OF FIBRES** ACCORDING TO LENGHT STAPLE FIBRE - Short lenght (includes all natural fibers except silk FILAMENT FIBRE -...

FIBRES ------ Textile fibre - Natural or synthetic - **longer than it is wide** - **can be spun into yarn or made into textiles by other methods** **CLASSIFICATION OF FIBRES** ACCORDING TO LENGHT STAPLE FIBRE - Short lenght (includes all natural fibers except silk FILAMENT FIBRE - continuous or near continuous length (includes all man-made fibers and silk ACCORDING TO ORIGIN Natural fibers - plant, animal, and mineral fibers Man-made - organic fibers (synthetic,regenerated/semi-synthetic), inorganic fibers **NATURAL FIBRES** -raw natural materials PLANT FIBERS - cotton, flax, hemp, kapok, jute, ramie, piña, coir, bamboo ANIMAL FIBERS - silk, wool, mohair, cashmere, camel hair, alpaca **PLANT FIBERS** - bast fibers -- obtained from the stem- flax - leaf fibers -- leaf - seed fibers -- seed - fruit fibers -- fruit - grass fibers - bamboo **ANIMAL FIBERS** HAIR FIBRES/KERATIN FIBRES - wool - mohair - cashmere - camel hair - alpaca SECRETION FIBRES/FIBROIN FIBRES - silk **MAN-MADE FIBRES** ORGANIC FIBRES - synthetic and regenerated (called semi-synthetic INORGANIC FIBRES - carbon fibres, glass fibres, ceramic fibres SYNTHETIC FIBRES - made by combining synthetic monomers into polymers (viscose, lyocell, tencel REGENERATED FIBRES - made from natural polymers (cellulose, viscose, lyocell, tencel **YARN** - spun thread used for weaving, knitting - made by spinning and twisting fibres SPINNING CAN BE DONE BY - distaff and spindle (preslica i vreteno) - spinning wheel - spinning machines - open ended spinning **METHODS OF PRODUCING FABRIC** TEXTILES THAT ARE USED IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY ARE EITHER: - WOVEN (tkanina) -- produced by weaving - KNITTED (pletenina) -- produced by knitting - NON-WOVEN (netkana tekstilija) -- produced by other methods WEAVING (the process of producing fabric by interlacing warp and weft yarns at right angles to each other) WARP YARNS (osnova) - Vertical yarns that are fixed WEFT YARNS (potka) - Horizontal yarns which move from left to right and back WEAVING CAN BE DONE: - On a loom frame - Hand loom - On an automatic/industrial loom **BASIC TYPES OF WEAVES** - Plain weave (platneni vez) - Warp and weft are aligned to form a simple criss-cross pattern (the weft goes over one warp yarn then under one warp and so on - Simplest and tightest weave structure - Produces strong and hard-wearing fabric **EXAMPLES OF PLAIN-WOVEN FABRICS:** - Canvas, chiffon, muslin, shantig, tweed **SATIN WEAVE (atlasni vez)** - The weft yarn goes over four or more of the warp yarns then under on and again over four or more - Fabric with glossy face and a dull back - The level of shine depends on the yarn that is used **EXAMPLES OF SATIN-WOVEN FABRICS:** - Satin, satin crepe, charmeuse - In english, there is a distinction between satin fabric(made from filament fibres) and sateen fabric(made of staple fibres) **TWILL WEAVE(keperni vez)** - the weft yarn is passed over one or more warp yarns then under two or more warp yarns and so on until the end of the row; when the new row begins a \"step\" is made (one warp yarn is skipped over) - sturdy fabric with a characteristic diagonal pattern **EXAMPLES OF TWILL-WOWEN FABRICS:** - denim, chino, gabardine **KNITTING** - The process of making fabrics by interlocking yarn LOOPS (očice) \*\*\*\*\*\*differences\*\*\*\*\*\* Weaving: - Two sets of yarn - Yarns are str8, running parallel, erither lengthwise (warp) or width wise (weft) Knitting: - One yarn - Yarn follows a meandering path forming symetrical loops above and below the mean part of the yarn Every knitted fabric has: a. A course- the horizontal row of loops, produced by adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle b. A wale- the vertical column of loops produced by the same needle knitting at successive knitting cycles TYPES OF KNITTING 1. **Weft knitting** (kulirno) - The wales are vertical to the course of the yarn - The entire fabric may be produced from a single yarn by adding loops to each wale in turn - Examples: plain knit/jersey (desno-lijevo) reverse knit/purl knit (lijevo-lijevo) rib knit (rebrasto) interlock (interlok) 2. **Warp knitting** (lančano) - The wales and courses run roughly parallel - As one yarn is required it can only be doe BY A MACHINE - Examples: tricot (triko) raschel (rašel) **COLOURS** - Colour- visual sensation from the stimulation of the retina (boja) - Dye- a natural or synthetic substance used to add colour to smth (bojilo) - 3 major parts: a. Hue (tonalnost) b. Saturation/intensity/chroma (zasićenost) c. Value (svjetloća) a. **HUE** - A dimension of colour we experience when we look at colour - Its purest form - The name of a colour b. **SATURATION** - The intensity and purity of a colour c. **VALUE** - The degree of lightness or dakness of a hue **TINTS AND SHADES** - Colours of the same hue and saturation, but different value - TINT- a mixture of hue with white, reducing darkness - SHADE- a mixture of a hue with black, increasing darkness **TONES** - Colours of the same hue and value, different saturation - Tone- a mixture of hue with grey **COLOUR THEORY** 1. The color wheel- a logically arranged sequence of pure hues - Newton- red, yellow, blue - Primary- cannot be mixed or formed by any combination of other colours - Secondary- mixing primary colours - Tertiary- primary and secondary? 2. Colour harmony- a combination of colours that is pleasing to the eye - Analogus colours- side by side on a 12-part colour wheel - Any colour scheme based ocomplimentary colours- directly opposite of each other - Based on nature 3. Colour context- how colour behaves in relation to the other colors and shapes COLOR PSYCHOLOGY - The study of hues as a determinant of human behaviour **CATEGORIES OF CLOTHING** 1. **METHOD OF PRODUCTION- KNITWEAR** - Clothes made by knitting - Knitted clothes that are not mass produced but hand-made by an artisan or designer 2. **LAYERS** - Underwear- worn next to the skin, under other garments - Outwear- outer clothing as opposed to underwear- corsets, coats... 3. **THE WEARER**- womenswear/ladieswear, menswear, childrenswear 4. **TIME OF THE DAY**- morningwear, eveningwear, daywear - Refering to the level of (in)formality of clothes - Morningwear- morning suit worn by men - Eveningwear- formal men's and women's garments worn in the evening - Daywear- clothing suitable to wear during the day 5. **PURPOSE**- activewear, beachwear, swimwear, rainwear,... - Sportswear- clothes that are worn for sports or other physical activities or informal clothing designed for comfort - Activewear- clothes that are worn for sports or other physical activities - Athleisure- a style of clothing that is comfortable and suitable for doing sports, but also fashionable and attractive enough to wear for other activities - Nightwear- clothes worn in bed or while preparing to go to bed - Sleepwear- clothes designed for sleeping in - Beachwear- clothes for wearing when swimming - Loungewear- informal, loose, comfortable clothing for relaxing at home - Townwear- apparel that is suitable for wearing in the city or to business - Rainwear- waterproof or water- resistant clothing - Skiwear- clothing suitable while skiing - Playwear- informal children's clothing designed to be worn for play - Shapewear- underwear that fits tightly and is designed to make the body look thinner by smoothing out and holding in areas that are out of shape - Bridalwear- worn by bride BONUS - Maternity wear- designed fpor wearing during pregnancy and postpartum period - Resort wear- special clothing collections designed for wearing on holidays 6. **ACCESSORIES**- headwear, eyewear, neckwear, footwear - Headwear- apparel fot the head - Eyewear- corrective, protective or decorative devices fot the eyes - Neckwear- items worn around the neck (NOT jewellery) - Footwear- feet