Introduction To Cosmetic Science PDF

INTRODUCTION TO COSMETIC SCIENCE UNIT 1 RUBY FELINA D. MAHINAY  LEARNING OBJECTIVE At the end of the lesson, the student will be able to: A. Define cosmetic science terminologies B. Describe the GMP requirement for cosmetics C. Explain the principles and met...

INTRODUCTION TO COSMETIC SCIENCE UNIT 1 RUBY FELINA D. MAHINAY  LEARNING OBJECTIVE At the end of the lesson, the student will be able to: A. Define cosmetic science terminologies B. Describe the GMP requirement for cosmetics C. Explain the principles and methods involved in the formulation of cosmetic products and the science of cosmetics D. Identify the requirements for cosmetic notification INTODUCTION  COSMETIC Any substance or preparation intended to be place In contact with the various parts of the human body: - Epidermis - Hair system - Nails - Lips - External genital organs Or with teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with A view to exclusively or mainly to : - cleaning - Perfuming - Or changing their appearances - Or correcting body odors - Or protecting them in good condition. Definition: Cosmetic, 6th Amendment (1993), Article 7a,EU Cosmetic Directory) History of Cosmetic and Perfumery: Cosmetic is derived from the Greek word: Kosm tikos “ having the power, arrange, skilled in decorating” Kosmein “to adorn” Kosmos “ order, harmony” PREHISTORIC TIMES – 3000BC EVIDENCE OF USE OF COSMETICS: 30,000 yrs. Ago early man used color in: cave paintings ( mostly bulls and calves) attract animals he wished to hunt body painting for camouflage or to provoked fear in enemy (man or animal)  Picts tribe in Northern Scotland were living already in 1000BC The Romans called them Pictus (latin) means painted. Which is still present in South Africa. In India, China & Egypt - aromatic woods and oils were used extensively in religious places. 3000BC-Ad 200: North Africa and the Middle East: Egyptians: - Used perfumes the sanctuary. - Embalming dead - Aesthetic purposes during their lives. - Incense from latin word incensum Sumerians Accdg to Herodotus (500 BC) young men and women in Babylonia: - painted their faces with white lead and vermilion - curled and perfumed their hair, kept the skin smooth with pumice stone - used perfumed oils on their bodies - u s e d p o w d e r e d m a n g a n e s e ox i d e a n d turquoise as black and green lining for the eye and eyebrows - used false hair, eye-paint and perfumes. - (Scythian women )used to rub on their bodies a mixture of frankincense, cedar, and cypress woods in water. When washed of! the next day the body was left smooth and glossy India - Galena and lamp-black were used for eye make- up and kohl sticks of copper, bronze and wood have been found; also polished bronze mirrors - red iron oxide used for rouge in small shells - Practice of colouring the soles of the feet, the nails and palms of the hands was prevalent - Heavy perfumes were used lavishly, the most popular being sandalwood perfumed body oils to give a long-lasting odour. - Women painted their faces with suns, moons, flowers, stars and birds  EUROPE FROM 2000 BC GREEKS - Loved perfumes Perfumery was an art practiced mainly by the women, and ref le cted in the beautiful pottery scent bottles manufactured in Athens in 400-350 BC. Theophrastus was probably the earliest Greek writer on the subject of perfumery.  Theophrastus also describes the raw materials from which perfumes are prepared: Perfumes are compounded from various parts of the plants: Rose and gilliflower perfumes are made from the flowers; so also is the perfume called Susinon made from lilies; The perfume from bergamot, mint and thyme, named Kypros; and the saffron perfume.  The crocus that produces this is best from Aegina and Cilicia. Instances of those made from the leaves are the perfumes culled from myrtle and dropwort. This grows in C yprus on the hills and is v e r y fra gra nt ; t ha t w hi c h gro ws in He llas yie ld s no perfume being scentless.  From roots are made the perfumes named from IRIS, spikenard and sweet marjoram, an ingredient in which is koston; for it is the root to which this perfume is applied. The Eretrian unguent is made from t h e r oot of k y p e i r o n , w h i ch i s obtained from Cyclades as well as from Enboea. From wood is made what is called 'palm perfume'; for t h e y p u t i n w h a t i s ca l l e d t h e 'spathe', having first dried it. Megaleion - a perfume mentioned by Threophrastus to contain burnt resin, oils of balanos, cassia, cinnamon and myrrh, alleged by him to have been very difficult to make Theophrastus said that 'perfumers seek upper rooms which do not face the sun, but are shaded as much as possible. For the sun or a hot place deprives the perfumes of their odour, and in general makes them lose their character more than cold treatment'  4th Century BC Greeks Women: painted rose colour and white. The white was m ost l y w h i t e l e a d, t h e r ou ge w a s v e r m i l i on or vegetable substances, such as mulberry, seaweed and paederos, a root similar to alkanet. Later mercuric sulfide was used as well as white lead. Orpiment, a compound of arsenic (used as depilatory) Fragrant oils were used in the hair and both men and women dyed grey hair.  4th Century BC Greeks Eyebrows were painted black and brought fairly close together. The eyes were painted with both black and green make-up. Sometimes false eyebrows were worn. Both men and women liked blond hair. After washing their hair with a special Athenian ointment, they sat bareheaded in the sun by the hour so that their tresses turned a beautiful golden blond. 16th Century in Europe Mary Queen of Scots Learnt the recipe for a beautiful complexion. This was to wash the face f ir st with hot water and then in wine, to make it glow. Dur i ng he r i m pr i sonm e nt i n England she asked for an increased allowance of wine for this purpose, and it is believed bathed herself in buttermilk. 16th Century in Europe After the Queen started to use a cowslip cream for her skin it became v e r y f a s h i on a b l e. It w a s s a i d t o preserve, beautify and whiten it, to r e m ov e e x i st i n g w r i n k l e s a n d t o prevent new ones. A m i l k of a l m on ds, l e m on a n d honey preserved and whitened the hands. A lotion of oils of rosemary, camomile, sage, thyme, southernwood and cloves made the hair grow thick and shining. An infusion of the eyebright plant Queen Elizabeth I made the eyes bright and sparkling. Her face was covered with white and red p a i n t , a s w e r e t h ose of m a n y of h e r subjects, in this prosperous age. The white paint consisted of white lead occasionally m ixe d wit h sublim at e of mercury and ground orris. Rouge consisted of red ochre, vermilion or cochineal. Egg-white was used to give a fashionable glaze to the face. Most recipes to whit en t eet h included ground brick, cuttle bone, red and white coral, egg shells, alum, mastic, sandarac, pumice and myrrh.  16th Century Hair Fashion Aft e r t he aust e rit y of hairst yle s of form e r ce nt urie s whe n foreheads were shaven, eyebrows plucked and every bit of hair hidden under wired caps (at least for married women), more hair was allowed to be seen arranged in tiny curls close to the head, from about 1540. 16th Century Hair Fashion Henry III of France (ruled 1574-1589) re- introduced the male habit of wearing false hair. He had t re at e d his own hair wit h damaging chemicals and became quite bald in early life. He wore a turban or a velvet cap with tufts of hair round the brim, which led his courtiers to grow their hair long Early 16th Century – First books on Perfumery Appeared Nostradamus - French astrologer, published in 1555 in Lyons a book on perfumes containing 'Plusiers Exquisite Receptes'. The book by Signora Isabella Cortesa contained ‘ secrets' about 'every-thing under the sun' according to Edward Sagarin, and included the word perfumery on the title page.  18th Century - Perfumery Although pharmacists throughout Europe, including the 'druggists' in Germany, were selling the raw materials and some plant oils and perfumes, not all the cosmetics and toiletries were made in the home. Itinerant pedlars sold all manner of perfumed beauty products claiming extravagant properties for them, each with different aromas, in market towns and villages throughout Europe. Eugene Rimmel describes how they conned the crowds 'in gorgeous red coat, with gilt lacings', with patter about their wares delivered from an 'elegant equipage', and 'with musical accompaniment  LEARNING CONTENT Topic Content: A. Overview of Cosmetic Science B. Definition of Cosmetic and Cosmetic Science C. ASEAN Guidelines for Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practice D. ASEAN Cosmetic Labeling Requirements E. ASEAN Cosmetic Claim Requirements F. Cosmetic Product Notification  COSMETICS Products applied to your body to Clean, make it more attractive, Or change the way it looks - Hair dyes - Makeup - Perfumes - Skin care creams  ointment toothpaste shampoo Deodorant cosmetic science is the area of study focused on the development of products designed to improve the look and feel of skin, hair, nails and other surfaces of the body. ASEAN COSMETIC DIRECTIVE Cosmetic product dealers in Singapore must comply with the cosmetic products regulation, which is in line with the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive. WHAT IS THE ASEAN COSMETIC DIRECTIVE (ACD) is an agreement among ASEAN countries to.harmonize requirements of cosmetic products so as to reduce technical barriers to trade in the region. The ACD was implemented in Singapore from 1 January 2008  ILLUSTRATIVE LIST OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS BY CATEGORIES BACKGROUND: The def inition of a cosmetic product which has been adopted by the ACCSQ Product. Working Group on Cosmetics is that of the European Directive. In order to understand the thought processes behind the words it does help to look at the way that the original 1976 definition was modified in 1993  ORIGINAL : Any substance or preparation intended for placing in contact with the external parts of the human body... or with the teeth and mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or principally to: 1. cleaning them, 2. perfuming them 3. protect them 4. in order to keep them in good condition 5. change their appearance 6. correct body odour  CURRENT : Any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body... or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly for cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance , and/or correcting body odours and/or protecting or keeping them in good condition