Cosmetic Science and Technology - Introduction & Ingredients PDF

Introduction to Cosmetic Science and Technology Cosmetics and Drugs - Definition Is there a If yes, write difference down one between the difference. two? How would you Give one define each of example for them?...

Introduction to Cosmetic Science and Technology Cosmetics and Drugs - Definition Is there a If yes, write difference down one between the difference. two? How would you Give one define each of example for them? each. Difference between Cosmetics and Drugs Intended use and composition Drugs: intended to treat, cure, diagnose or prevent a disease Alters body functions Cosmetics: Intended to beautify or enhance one appearance. Alters appearance with or without altering body  Cosmetics: Definition Any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprayed- on , introduced into or applied to the human body or any part of the body for cleansing, beautifying or promoting attractiveness or altering appearance.  Ideal properties of a Cosmetic Product It should be non toxic and non irritant It should be physically and chemically inert Ability of masking skin imperfections Long lasting property Easily removable Stable Cosmetics Classificatio n  Target group Dosage Function form Cosmeti cs Classification of Cosmetics and OTC Applicati on Legal status drug surface Cosmetics  Categories of Cosmetic products Target Group: Specific group of consumers (based on age, gender, ethnicity and race) Dosage Forms:  Categories of Cosmetic products Application surfaces: Based on the area intended for application. Example: products that can be applied to hair, nail, skin etc… Legal Status: As per FDA, based on the composition the products are either: – Drugs – Cosmetics – Cosmetics-OTC drugs Function: Based on a variety of functions such as: – Colouring: function of lipsticks and mascara – Cleansing: function of shampoos and soaps – Moisturising: function of face cream and hand lotions – Protection: function of sunscreens and lip balms  Let’s see how a cosmetic product can be transformed into a drug product? Cosmetic product Add this ingredient Drug product Shampoo Anti dandruff Anti – dandruff ingredient shampoo Hand wash Body moisturizer Mouth wash  Marketing claims in Cosmetic Products Hypoallergenic Preservative free products  General Process used in Manufacturing Emulsification Mixing Powdering Compaction Packaging Moulding Major ingredients in Cosmetics  Major ingredients in Cosmetics Since cosmetics do not affect the skin structure or function, they do not contain any AIs (they contain cosmetic ingredients only) However, OTC drug cosmetic products are used to prevent, diagnose and treat to enhance the cosmetic appearance, they contain AIs (other ingredients in the composition – cosmetic ingredients) Commonly used Cosmetic Ingredients  1. Abrasives: An ingredient that is capable of polishing or cleaning a harder surface by rubbing or grinding action. These are solid particles generally used in toothpaste and scrubs.  1. Abrasives: Although function of abrasives in skin and teeth are same, the type of ingredients used is different in each of them: Abrasives (Skin products) Abrasives (Dental – Purpose: skin exfoliation products) – Examples: – Purpose: Physical cleaning Fruit seeds and stain removing to Nut shells increase gloss of the teeth. Grains – Examples: Synthetic components Mineral powders Natural waxes  2. Antioxidants: Provides protection against oxidative reactions Can be used to fulfil 2 different functions in cosmetic products: 1. Prevent product Butylated hydroxy toluene decomposition triggered by Butylated hydroxy light, heat or metal ions – anisole contributes to product Propyl gallate stability 2. Neutralizes the free Vitamins A,C,E radicals produced in the skin Natural extracts due to oxidative stress that Polyphenol causes fine lines and wrinkle isoflavones on the skin  Quick Thinks… 1. State the undesirable changes that can happen to a cosmetic product if antioxidants are not used. 1 chemical and 1 physical change 2. What are the triggers to oxidation reaction? 3. The presence of which ingredients in the cosmetic products make them more prone to oxidation due to their presence?  3. Chelating agents: Molecules with 3-dimensional structure that complexes with heavy metals that degrade the cosmetic product by oxidative reactions catalysed by these heavy metal ions. X :Deteriorates the products by reducing clarity, fragrance integrity and causing rancidity Examples of some chelating agents: – Ethylene di amine tetra acetic acid – Phosphoric acid derivatives – Citric acid and its derivatives  4. Organoleptic agents: Primarily used in products that come in Flavouri contact with taste buds ng Lipsticks and dental agents: products Different from perfumes: milder Source : Natural and Artificial Fragrance Used in face make-up, s: skin and hair care products Subject to strict regulation – needs FDA approval…Dyes , pigments and lakes are Colouri used ng agents: Colored make up and hair products  5. Moisturizers: Ingredients that add moisture to the skin and/or help retain moisture in the skin. Used as main component or as ingredient for additional benefits, like in nail polish remover Four subcategories of moisturizers as per their functions are: a. Humectants b. Emollients c. Occlusive d. Skin Enhancers/skin rejuvenator  5. Moisturizers: Ingredie Mode of Function Examples nt type moisturizing skin Humecta Maintain the 40% of Increase skin hydration Glycerin (gold nt the water , draw the standard ) , water from the hyaluronic acid, environment to sorbitol keep the skin hydrated Emollient Fatty substances Reduce water loss Mineral oil, urea, fatty that fills the spaces substances in the cells and tissues , prevent dehydration Occlusive Forming layer and prevent water loss only Skin Stretches the skin Collagen, keratin, enhancer to mask temporary elastin s the fine lines  6. pH buffers: Three reasons: 1. Matching formulation with application surface 2. Stabilization 3. Thickening formulations Examples: – Acidic buffers: citric acid & lactic acid – Alkaline buffers: sodium hydroxide & triethanolamine  7. Plasticizers: – Nail polish film/ hair spray film generally dry out. – Soften and impart flexibility Used in: – Nail polishes, nail hardeners, sunscreens and hair styling products. In nail polishes : camphor, castor oil, glyceryl tribenzoate, citrate esters In hair styling products: mineral oil, dimethicone and castor oil.  8. Propellants: To maintain suitable pressure within aerosol can and expel content when valve is open. – They are compressed or liquefied gases – Used in shaving creams, hair sprays, antiperspirants Liquefied gas: isopentane Compressed gas: butane, isobutane, and propane  9. Solvents: Solvents ??? Aq. Alc. Mix. Org solvent Functions include: – Cooling effect – Aid in product application – Modify the skin feel – Modify viscosity – Influence film forming properties Selection of solvent based on “ like dissolves like” – polar to polar…  9. Solvents: Semi-polar Non-polar Polar Solvents solvents solvents Water Alcohols Oils Glycols Ketones Silicone oils Esters Hexane Toluene Dimethyl ether 1. Ingredients in the formulation Selection of Solvents for 2. Type of dosage form cosmetics: 3. Compatibility with the application Based on… surface  These are often referred to as OTC Active Drug –cosmetic products ingredients in – Anti acne ingredients cosmetics – Anti dandruff ingredients – Sunscreen ingredients  Legislation for Cosmetic Products Cosmetics are not FDA approved but FDA regulated. FDA prohibits marketing of adulterated or misbranded cosmetic products. No pre-market approval from FDA is required, except for colour additives. Unlike for drugs, manufacturer need not share the safety information with FDA. Legislation for Cosmetic Products Recall is a FDA is not voluntary action of the manufacturer, authorised to if the product is recall cosmetic reported products. hazardous or defective. FDA can also FDA can inspect collect samples for the manufacturing test and analysis– site to ensure GMP adulterated or & product safety. misbranded.