Principles of Laying Out Pattern Pieces on the Fabric PDF

PRINCIPLES OF LAYING OUT PATTERN PIECES ON THE FABRIC DRESSMAKING 10  PATTERN LAYING OUT Patterns are laid out on the fabric to determine if the cloth is enough for all the pattern pieces. The process is known as pattern layout. In this method, lay out all pattern pieces...

PRINCIPLES OF LAYING OUT PATTERN PIECES ON THE FABRIC DRESSMAKING 10  PATTERN LAYING OUT Patterns are laid out on the fabric to determine if the cloth is enough for all the pattern pieces. The process is known as pattern layout. In this method, lay out all pattern pieces in various positions on the fabric by trial and error until they all fit on the cloth. When all pattern pieces have been laid out, pin them securely on the fabric. DETERMINING THE RIGHT & WRONG SIDE OF THE FABRIC  DETERMINING THE RIGHT & WRONG SIDE OF THE FABRIC 1. The selvage, or the finished edge of the fabric is smoother on the right side. 2. Loose thread ends can be found on the wrong side of the fabric. 3. Fabrics are folded right side in. 4. Prints are clearer and brighter on the right side FOUR KINDS OF FABRIC FOLDS 1. Lengthwise centerfold- The fabric is folded lengthwise at the center with selvages together. 2. Crosswise centerfold- The fabric is folded crosswise at the center with the raw edges together. 3. Off-center lengthwise fold- The fabric is folded lengthwise with the raw edges meeting at the center. 4. Off-center crosswise fold- The fabric is folded crosswise with the raw edges meeting at the center. FOUR KINDS OF FABRIC FOLDS  LAYING OUT PATTERN PIECES Depending on the fabric’s width, be sure to fold the fabric on grain. Be sure to put in and mark the necessary allowances on all parts of the garment. Mark the allowances with tailor’s chalk or with colored pencil. These allowances are represented by broken lines in the illustrations. Cut along markings of the allowances. The amount of fabric needed will depend on the width of the fabric and the length and style of the skirt. LAYING OUT PATTERN PIECES 1. Make a temporary pattern layout especially if the fabric is too small. 2. Determine the right side of the fabric. 3. Fold the fabric with the right side in and the wrong side out on a lengthwise centerfold. 4. Always make your layout on the wrong side of the fabric. Pattern markings should not be seen on the right side. LAYING OUT PATTERN PIECES 5. Lay out big pattern pieces first. Fit the small pattern pieces in between the large pieces. Fit the pieces close together to avoid wastage. 6. Check that the design and grain line of the pattern correspond to those of the fabric. 7. Pin the pattens in place. Pins should be placed outward perpendicular to the seam line and along the seam allowance space. LAYOUT PATTERN PIECIES OF THE BASIC STRAIGHT SKIRT PATTERN ON THE FABRIC  LAYOUT PATTERN PIECIES OF THE BASIC STRAIGHT SKIRT PATTERN ON THE FABRIC GUIDELINES IN PINNING PATTERN PIECES ON THE FABRIC GUIDELINES IN PINNING PATTERN PIECES ON THE FABRIC 1.PIN WITH CARE TO PREVENT INACCURATE CUTTING. 2.Use only enough pins to hold down the patterns securely. 3.Depending on the fabric and the size of the pattern piece, placing pins about six inches apart is usually enough. 4.Place pins completely inside the cutting line. 5.Place pins diagonally in corners and perpendicular to seamlines. CUTTING TOOLS NEEDED IN CUTTING THE FABRICS  CUTTING TOOLS 2. small embroidery scissors -This is used to trim threads after stitching seams and to snip those hard-to reach places. Embroidery scissors generally have very sharp tips. 1. FABRIC SHEARS - THESE 3. PINKING SHEARS - THE HANDLES ARE SCISSORS ARE SPECIALLY MADE FITTED WITH TEETH LIKE BLADES. INSTEAD OF A STRAIGHT CUT IN THE TO CUT FABRIC AND THEY WILL FABRIC, THESE SMALL TRIANGULAR GIVE YOU CLEAN LINES INSTEAD CUTS WILL HELP PREVENT THE FABRIC OF FRAYED OR JAGGED EDGES. FROM FRAYING. CUTTING THE FABRIC  CUTTING THE FABRIC 1. Place the fabric and pattern flat on the table. Avoid moving or lifting the fabric while cutting. 2. Walk around the table as you cut instead of pulling the fabric toward you because the fabric may slip or stretch out of shape. 3. Use sharp shears for cutting, making long strokes along straight edges and short, even strokes along curved edges. Cut the edge straight since it serves as your guide in sewing. 4. Cut the fabric starting from the widest to the narrowest part of the pattern. Begin cutting at an edge which is easy to reach.  CUTTING THE FABRIC 5. Cut with smooth, even strokes. 6. Keep the cutting edge of the top blade of the shears directly above the lower blade. Do not let the blades slant toward the table. 7. Cut similar patterns at the same time by cutting them out from two layers of fabric. 8. Close the points of the shears right up to the notch. Close the points at the exact stopping place. Cut outward from the pattern to the exact tip of the notch. Cut inward to complete the notch at the cutting line.  CUTTING THE FABRIC 9. When cutting curves, make your strokes shorter. Keep the free hand close to the cutting line to have smooth curved line. 10.Set aside cut fabric pieces to avoid cutting them accidentally as you work on other parts of the fabric. 11.After cutting, do not remove the pins and patterns because you will need them in marking your fabric. 12.Collect and tie all scraps of cloth together for future use. You may be able to use these for your recycling projects. TRANSFERRING OF MARKS ONTO THE FABRIC  GENERAL DETAILS TO BE MARKED: 1. seam lines along curves and corners 2. position of pockets 3. stitch lines 4. center lines for the front and back opening, facings and interfacings 5. darts 6. location of buttons and button holes 7. points where stitching lines should stop 8. fold lines 9. any other special markings used to construct the garment  GUIDELINES IN TRANSFERRING OF MARKS ONTO THE FABRIC  GUIDELINES IN TRANSFERRING MARKING ONTO THE FABRIC 1. Details should be marked on the wrong side of the fabric where most construction lines are needed. 2. If you use a tracing wheel and dressmaker’s carbon paper, mount these on a piece of heavy cardboard to protect table surfaces. 3. Use white tracing paper whenever possible because it is safe and easy to remove. 4. Use a ruler to make straight lines with the tracing wheel. Run the tracing wheel along the edge of the ruler with a firm and steady motion to avoid double lines, which can be confusing. GUIDELINES IN TRANSFERRING MARKING ONTO THE FABRIC 5. When marking curves, slant the tracing wheel slightly inward toward the center of the curve. 6. Avoid retracing or going over the line twice. 7. There are various methods in transferring pattern marking. Tailor’s tacks are good for circles and dots, or mark these with a water or air soluble pen (when using a pen, test it on a piece of scrap fabric first). For lines, you can use trace basting or a tracing wheel with dressmaker’s carbon paper