History of Indian Embroidery

Study Notes

Embroidery is a decorative thread work on fabric that dates back to ancient India.
Women have been the pioneers of this craft throughout history.
Evidence of embroidery is found in ancient Vedic literature (5000 BC) and the Indus Valley Civilization (2000 BC) where small bronze needles were excavated.
Greek ambassador, Megasthenes, documented embroidery practices in the 4th century BC during the reign of Chandragupta Maurya.
Exquisite embroidery is depicted in Ajantha caves, reflecting the sophistication of the art during the renaissance.
Embroidery was a status symbol, used by emperors and kings to showcase wealth and power.
Mughal influence significantly impacted the evolution of Indian embroidery, incorporating their artistic and cultural motifs.

Archaeological sources: tombs, monuments, paintings, sculptures, and literature, offer insights into the history of embroidery.
Records of trade with foreign empires: Greek, Roman, Persian, and Chinese records highlight the exchange of textiles and embroidery techniques.

India was a prominent center for textile production until the European Industrial Revolution.
Historic events, prominent cities, availability of raw materials, and international trade influenced the evolution of embroidery motifs and designs.
Foreign influence and globalization have impacted technical details and aesthetics of embroidery techniques.

Northern India:
- Kashmir: Pashmina shawls
- Himachal Pradesh: Chamba rumal
Eastern India:
- Bengal: Kantha quilts
- Odisha (Orissa): Satgaon quilts
Western India:
- Gujarat: Kutch embroidery
- Punjab: Phulkari chaddars
- Rajasthan: Gota and applique work
Lower Ganges Valley:
- Bihar: Kashida, Katwa
- Uttar Pradesh: Golden Zardosi, Chikankari, Phulpatti works
Southern India:
- Karnataka: Kasuti
- Andhra Pradesh: Banjara embroidery
- Tamil Nadu: Toda embroidery, Madras checks with aari work

Court Embroidery:
- Used by emperors and kings as a symbol of status and opulence.
- Timurid designs were introduced by the first Islamic rulers in India.
- Chikankari flourished in the 15th and 16th centuries, possibly introduced by Nur Jahan.
Trade Embroidery:
- Primarily practiced in Gujarat, Southwest Rajasthan, and Sindh.
- Items were exported to European and Middle Eastern countries.
- The Mughal era witnessed a growth in trade, with Ahmadabad establishing itself as a textile hub.
- The East India Company continued the trade after the Mughal era.
- Some renowned examples include:
  - Kashmiri shawls: England, Afghanistan, and France (elite markets).
  - Chikankari: England
  - Bengalla or Satgaon quilts: Portugal and England
  - Madras handkerchiefs with aari work: Middle Eastern Countries.
Folk Embroidery:
- Practiced by women of the family, serving domestic purposes.
- Used for creating articles and personal offerings for weddings and ceremonies.
- Served as a means of self-expression and community identity.
Temple Embroidery:
- Crafted by dedicated artisans, reflecting mythological themes.
- Used to adorn temple walls and decorate interiors.
- Offered as religious offerings.
- Notable examples:
  - Hindu & Jain Temples: Pichhvai paintings and wall hangings, Mandalas (ceremonial offerings to Jain priest nuns).
  - Himachal Pradesh: Chamba rumal (cloth to cover offerings to deities)

Common Stitches: running, darning, chain, ladder, cretan, buttonhole, feather, fly, herringbone, stem, back, satin, long & short, couching, interlacing, sisha, and other specialized stitches.
Variation in needle size and length.
Use of tambour hooks, aari hooks, and hand-held fixings.