Mughal Period (1526-1737) History PDF

M U G HAL P E R IOD ( 1 526- 1 7 37)HISTORY With the eventual collapse of the Gupta Empire in the sixth century, the classic age of Ancient India came to an end and North India got fragmented into smaller kingdoms. It was towards the end of ninth century that the Rajputs became a...

M U G HAL P E R IOD ( 1 526- 1 7 37)HISTORY With the eventual collapse of the Gupta Empire in the sixth century, the classic age of Ancient India came to an end and North India got fragmented into smaller kingdoms. It was towards the end of ninth century that the Rajputs became an influential force in the culture and politics of India. The Mughal rulers valued India’s rich heritage and its sophisticated textile culture. The six greatest Mughal emperors of this empire were Babur, Humayun, Akbar, Jahangir, Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb. In 1526, Babur founded the Mughal Empire. His grandson, Akbar reigned from 1556-1605 and expanded the empire.  A R T A N D C R A FT D U R ING M U G HAL E R A The Mughal era was the golden period in the history of Indian art, craft and culture. The Mughals not only invaded India and ruled it but also brought with them a rich heritage, which they had acquired from Persia. They introduced new techniques like inlay work, glass engraving, carpet weaving, brocades, enameling etc. The Mughal miniature paintings influenced many schools of Rajasthani paintings and the Kangra Pahari schools of miniatures. The famous Peacock Throne of the Mughals is one of the finest examples of gem inlay work and metal craft, having few parallels in world art. They also laid the foundation for the famous Mughal miniature painting, Petra Dura or inlay work, enameled jewellery and a host of other craft traditions many of which continue today.  M I N IATUR E P A I NTINGS: I M P O RTANT S O URCE F O R MUG HAL C O STUMES Mughal painting is a particular style of South Asian painting, generally confined to miniatures, which emerged from Persian miniature painting and developed during the period of the Mughal Empire(16th - 19th centuries). miniature paintings were a variety of Islamic paintings done during the reign of the Mughal Emperors. The Mughal paintings often covered scenes from the court and help our understanding of how the court functioned. These paintings also provide us with information on what the emperors looked like. ‡ The mughal miniature paintings had depicted the costumes and ornaments which were prevalent in the time of medieval India. Mughal artists had rendered exquisite detail of the costume of the people of that period. ‡ The three dancing ladies depict the exotic costumes used during the medieval period of India. The central 1 is dressed in such manner that we can say that she belongs to the royal family. The mughal Emperors who helped the art of painting to flourish were Akbar , Jahangir and Shah Jahan.  THE GREAT RULERS Babur 1526-1530 Humayun 1530-1539, 1555-1556 Akbar 1556-1605 Jahangir 1605-1627 Shah Jahan 1628-1658 Aurangzeb 1658-1707  BABUR Pioneer to the Mughals (Babur) was born February 15, 1483 and died December 25, 1530. Babur was known for his love of beauty, and its military capacity. Costumes worn by Babur and his courtiers resembled those of his country of origin, while the common man during Babur’s reign continued to wear indigenous costumes, as Babur himself mentioned in the Baburnama. The common man wore a short warp-around dhoti, while the upper portion was left bare. Babur also refers to the names of a few costumes, some of which are listed below: Nimcha (kind of short tunic) Jama (garment with lining) Yaktahi jama (garment without lining) Charagab (gold-embroidered garment) Postin or coat (lined with sheepskin) Jiba or surtout Chafan (long coat) Tahband (girdle or belt) Paintings of this period prominently depict fastening of the costume differently. The Hindus fastened the outer garment towards the left armpit with tie-cords. While the Muslims fastened the tie-cords towards the right armpit.  HUMAYUN Babur's son Humayun favorite took the reins of 'empire after his father died of illness at the age of forty years. Humayun introduced Persian elements in the costumes. He was notorious for seeking the help of planetary movements (every day) in choosing what to wear. He also maintained a special treasure house in his palace to accommodate textiles and garments.  AKBAR Akbar the Great (1542-1602) was the greatest of India's Muslim Mughal emperors. Akbar the Great (14 October1542–27 October 1605), was the third Mughal Emperor. He was of Timurid descent; the son of Emperor Humayun and the grandson of the memorable Mughal Emperor Babur Upto the time of Akbar, Persian dress was worn by Muslims but during Akbar’s time Rajput dress was adopted. Akbar used to wear and purious colours yellow, oranga gown-like cloak with six-pointed lapel ends over the churidar pyjama. The cloak used to be in various colours like yellow, orange and purple. They used to tie turbans which looked like a crown. The nobles used to put precious stones on it. The shoes were horn-shaped at the back and embellished with zari work. The jama, full-sleeved and short in length, falling slightly above the knees and with four pointed ends. Women's were used half sleeved bodice(choli),the ankle length skirt(ghaghra) and the head scarf(orhni) The upper garment was fully embroidered at the neck and sleeves. Orhni were decorated with pompoms. Pompom were made of silk or wool.  JAHANGIR Jahangir started his era as a Mughal emperor after the death of Akbar in 1605. He considered his third son Prince Khurram (later Shah Jahan in 1592 his favourite. Jahangir initiated the printing, weaving and embroidering of Kashmiri flora on textiles. In Jahangir’s time, the fashion for decorating the Akbaride turban with pearls and plumes of rare birds was set up. The nobles continued to wear the tied turban either plain or in one colour or the other. The churidar pyjama used to be in soft green silk. The horn-shaped back of the shoes took the shape of leisurely slippers made of red leather. The patka was a kind of pink or blue shawl having foliage print. Jahangir used to wear a garment called nadioi, which means ‘rarity’. It was a type of overcoat. The jama becomes longer reaching almost up to the knees, with a straight, circular hem.  SHAH JAHAN Even while very young, he was chosen as successor to the Mughal throne after the death of Emperor Jahangir. He succeeded to the throne upon his father's death in 1627. He is considered to be one of the greatest Mughals and his reign has been called the Golden Age of the Mughals and one of the most prosperous ages of the Indian civilization. Mughal ornamentation, especially those for the garments, received fresh impetus. The royal garments became more decorated and lavish with heavy embellishments of floral designs. Motifs were outlined with gold thread coupled with ‘pietra-dura’ effect of the precious stones. The intrusions and wars of course left no marks of those garments. The jama reached below the knees with the elegant long and floral patterned patka. They used decorated sash and kamarband. The slippers were lavishly decorated. They were used jeweled turban. AURANGZEB The last great Mughal ruler was Aurangzeb Alamgir. Aurangzeb also promoted the same lavish style on clothing, and paintings dating back to this reign reveal the evidence of Indianisation of Persian fashions in the royal court. The Mughal rule is considered a ‘golden age’ of textile crafts in the Sub-continent. By the seventeenth century, jamas(The skirt of the jama was widened and lengthened), choghas and angrakhas remained the height of fashion along with accessories for men such as the atamsukh (a long, loose garment worn like an over coat in winters), turban (the style of tying the turban varied according to social status), patka, jutis (shoes) and farji (kind of a coat) etc. The intricate patterning of clothing and the delicate embellishments done by hand marked the finesse, luxury and exuberance of the garments. S O U RCE O F I N FORMATION The Mughal merged their own Persian culture with Hindu aesthetics and created a fusion in art. Miniature Paintings. Portrait Paintings. Nature. Mughal Darbar. Court Paintings and miniature art derived from Persian and indigenous sources dominant motif was the tree of life and intricate floral arabesque borders.  C O STU MES The earliest preserved painting from Rajasthan depict a male costume which is hardly different from that encountered in some parts of the country early in the last period but not specifically attributed to the Hindus by the Muslim scholar Al-Biruni. Certain instances from the history give an idea about the costumes worn at that time.  C O STU MES MEN COSTUMES WOMEN COSTUMES GARMENT: The garment usually worn by men Muslim ladies used to wear gowns and as depicted in paintings is a long trousers. coat usually called ‘JAMA’ but it The women robe was generally called seems it was also known among the Peshwaz. It was a full ankle length Hindu as ‘angarakha’ i.e. ‘Protector gown made of very fine and delicate of the body’. material.  Jama was long enough to descend to A special over garment called burqa was the knees and even to the calves. It also worn while travelling. This garment had long tapering sleeves. Whether covered body from head to foot. there were large number of bracelets Under the robe, an ankle length vest was like folds formed over the arms by worn. their surplus length. The chief garment was called as Takauchiyah jama which was an earlier version of Jama. It is a coat without lining of the Indian form. Formerly it had slits in the skirts and was tied on the left side. His majesty has ordered it to be made with a round skirt and to be tied on the right side.  Another form of jama was double breasted. The upper flap coming over the right side to be tied with its shape under the left armpit. The bracelet like gathers were quite clearly seen.  Farji has no bind and is open in Women’s used to wear half sleeved front. Some put buttons on it. It is bodice(choli), the ankle length skirt worn over the jama (coat). (ghaghra). The Chakman is made of broad or woolen stuff or wax cloth. His Magesty has it made of Darai wax cloth, which is very ligt and pretty. The rain cannot go through it. The legs are clothed in wht is later known as ‘Chudidar’ payjami. The upper garment was fully embroidered at the neck and sleeves. Pyjama called the suttana, was at the top and roomy around the leg. The use of ‘Lehanga’ in contrast with the drawers it would appear of Muslim ladies as the lower garment.  HAI R S T YLES MENS WOMENS Some mens used to wear Their hairs were tied in a their hair long. bun or were in a tasseled plait adorned with flowers Usually they use to tie their and ornaments. hair in a knot at the nape of the neck. Most of them had long or short beards.  HE AD D RE SS MENS WOMENS The males of this era used to The women of this era used to wear decorative headdresses. wear decorated odhani. Akbaride turban was a very popular headdress in Mughal courts. Royal headdress included jewelled tiaras decorated with tassels.  They used to wear different types of turbans and caps some of them are: Turbans: a. Patti-dar-pagri. b. Khirki-dar-pagri. c. Nastalik. d. Shamla. Caps: a. Smoking Cap. b. Parsee Cap. c. Sindhi topi. d. Lambskin Cap. e. Gudders. f. Floppish.  FO O TWEAR High boots up to knees were worn while riding. They use to wore boat like shoes with close fitted trousers. The slippers were lavishly decorated.  AC C ESSORIES MENS WOMENS Sword. Brooch worn at neckline of dress. Jeweled metallic plaque used as clock fastening. Precious stones. Engraved rings.  Beautiful ornaments set with jewels worn at top of sleeve on shoulder. Turban plume (kalgi or Garments was embroidered with jigha) jewel. Large neck chain with drop. The ornaments include the Karanphul (`ear flower`), which is shaped like the blossom of love-in- the-mist (Nigella sativa) Golden bands (sarpati) Nath (nose ring). The Nath (in the form of a circular gold wire threaded with a ruby between two pearls, or other gemstones). Dagger  Necklaces consisting of pearls, pearls and gems, The armlet is an gold on its own, or gold with enameled gold set with pearls and gems. an emerald. Turban jewelry was of Bali, (a circlet with a pearl worn through gold, silver, pearls and theear) precious stones. Bracelet. Brooch. The thumb ring was engraved set with rubies and emeralds.  T Y PICAL M AT ERIAL Silk was used at that time. Wool may have been extensively , but so far as contemporary authorities go, the poorer classes in India seem to have used very little of it during Mughal Period. The weaving of shawls made of animal hair. The jamdani had its woolen counterpart in ‘jamewar’ with an intricately woven pattern in wool. One of the most beautiful patterns in cotton evolved and perfected by the Muslims was ‘jamdani’ the weaving of delicate flowers and leaves on the flimsiest cotton. Royal women wore beautiful clothes made from the finest materials and adorned jewelry from head to toe. They used to spend a lot of money in getting for themselves fine silks, brocades and muslins from which they got stitch beautiful garments.