Care and Renovation of Textiles PDF

2.2 CARE AND RENOVATION OF TEXTILES Care and Renovation of Textiles Semester V, B. Voc Fashion Design Module 2.2.2  2 Pre-Treatment Products...

2.2 CARE AND RENOVATION OF TEXTILES Care and Renovation of Textiles Semester V, B. Voc Fashion Design Module 2.2.2  2 Pre-Treatment Products "Pre-treating" means that you tackle any issues before washing the item. This approach is more effective (and efficient) than washing an item multiple times to get the desired result. We highly recommend pre-treating to prevent or remove stains, fight dinginess, and prevent or remove Odors. The purpose of pretreatment is to create a flat smooth surface on your garment so that ink can be applied to and adhere to the garment with the least amount of distortion in the print due to imperfections in the textile itself. Keep in mind that all textiles have some amount of fuzz or lint on their surface. Also, as all textiles are an interlacing of fabric (of some kind), so the surface of the garment has many valleys and gaps (even if you cannot see them). Removing Stains With targeted pre-treating, using the right stain-fighting products (we're partial to ours, of course) and proper cleaning, most stains can be overcome. Preventing Stains Unlike a coffee or an ink stain, some stains build up over time, such as ring around the collar or the dreaded pit stains. For a while, you won't notice any changes to the fabric and then, one day, you find an embarrassing or frustrating stain! To adequately remove stains from clothes, they must be pretreated. To prevent stain creep, pretreat targeted areas with stain-fighting products. Our products are the best stain removers for these situations.  3 Treat Dinginess or Boost Colours Colours looking dull or lacklustre? Whites looking a bit Gray? If so, you're dealing with dinginess. Dinginess is usually caused from a buildup of fiber, minerals, or soap (especially powered detergent). To remove all kinds of buildup, simply soak dingy items with stain-fighting products before washing. Removing Odors To remove and treat old and new Odors (body Odor, smoke, cooking Odor, musty Odor from storage, etc.), prewash or presoak the item with Odor-removing products.  4 There are four main ways stains are removed from fabric, and most commercial stain pre-treatment products utilize combinations of these methods: 1. The Stain Is Dissolved in A Solvent A solvent is a liquid that dissolves a solid or another liquid. In the case of our ketchup-and-mustard stain, we are dealing with a semi-solid, semi-liquid solution. The rule is “like dissolves like.” Organic stains, like butter, bacon grease, or hamburger condiments, can be removed by organic solvents. 2. The Stain Is Removed and Lifted by A Surfactant Surfactants work with solvents and water to remove, separate, and suspend the components of a stain. Surfactants essentially “make water wetter” which allows the product to penetrate the fabric fibers, surrounding the stain molecules, lifting them, and rinsing them away. Most laundry pre-treatments and stain removers contain surfactants. 3. The Stain Is Oxidized by A Bleach Bleaches such as chlorines and peroxides de-colorize and/or break down the molecules in stains such as grass, wine and fruit juices. This makes them more water-soluble, and easier to wash away. 4. The Stain Is Digested by Enzymes Enzymes are used to breakdown protein stains such as eggs, dairy products, meat, and juices, and starch stains such as pasta and baby food. There are several methods of applying the pre-treatment. Stain removers come in spray bottles, squeeze bottles with bristles on the tip to help you rub out the stain, in solid sticks, wipes, and even in something that looks like a pen. No matter how the pre-treatment attacks the stain, or how you apply it to the fabric, if it does its job, you’ll be able to save that shirt from winding up in the rag pile. You’ll also save time, energy, and water if you can wash that stain out on the first try. So next time you spill a little coffee or grape juice on your shirt, reach for the pre-treatment to blast out that stain! Pre-treatment Products Baking soda. Lemon/lime. Hydrogen peroxide. Corn starch. Salt. Dish soap. Laundry detergent.  5 Baking soda Baking soda is particularly useful at pre-treating odorous wet stains, such as coffee. The powdery consistency sucks up the wetness of the stain, whilst absorbing the odour, leaving your clothing with an odourless and smaller stain. Make sure to always brush off the baking soda before washing your garment. Alternatively, you can make a baking soda paste by mixing two parts baking soda with one part water. Spreading the paste over your stain will help to loosen it from the fibres of your clothing. Photo by Kaboompics.com from Pexels Lemon/lime The natural acidity in lemon and lime acts as a natural bleaching agent. Squeezing lemon or lime juice directly over the stain will begin bleaching it, making the stain lighter and easier to remove in the wash. Be warned that using lemon or lime juice on coloured clothing may cause discolouration, so use with caution or only on white clothing. It is particularly effective on yellow underarm and rust stains. Photo by Karolina Grabowska from Pexels  6 Hydrogen peroxide Similarly, to lemon and lime, hydrogen peroxide is a natural bleaching agent. Simply pour or spray a small amount of the solution on to your stain, and allow it to sit for 10 minutes. The hydrogen peroxide will begin to break down and lift your stain, making it easier for it to be completely lifted in the wash. After 10 minutes, wash your garment as you usually would, and observe as your clothing becomes completely stain-free. Image by Duncan Creamer Corn starch If you have an oily or greasy stain, immediately sprinkle corn starch over it. Make sure that your stain is completely covered by the corn starch, and leave it to sit for at least 10 minutes. The small particles that make up the corn starch will begin absorbing the stain, lifting it from your garment. If you catch your stain quick enough, the corn starch alone may be enough to lift your stain completely. If not, wash your item as you usually would. Image by JaBB  7 Salt Salt works in a similar way to corn starch, particularly on red wine stains. The particles that make up the salt absorb the stain, leaving a smaller and more manageable stain behind. Sprinkle your red wine stain with a liberal amount of salt, the cheaper the better, and leave it to sit for at least 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, brush the salt from your garment and observe whether your stain has reduced in size and become lighter. If not, you may want to apply more salt and leave it for longer. Photo by Castorly Stock from Pexels Dish soap Dish soap is manufactured to tackle greasy and oily substances. To remove stains using dish soap, squirt a small amount directly onto the stain, and use your fingers, or a soft-bristled brush, to rub it in. Leave it to sit for 10 minutes, before rinsing it from your stain, and washing as you usually would. Photo by Vivaan Rupani from Pexels  8 Laundry detergent Laundry detergent is specially formulated to lift dirt from clothing, which makes it a great pre-treatment. You can use laundry detergent in the same way as you would use dish soap. Rub a small amount directly onto your stain, leave it to sit for 10 minutes, and then rinse it from your garment. It’s best, and easiest, to use liquid laundry detergent. Alternatively, you can make a paste from powdered laundry detergent and water which you can spread directly onto your stain. Image Courtesy: Ajay Suresh  2.2.1 CARE AND RENOVATION OF TEXTILES Care and Renovation of Textiles Semester V, B. Voc Fashion Design Module 2.2.1  2 Soaps and Detergents In primitive societies, even today, clothes are cleaned by beating them on rocks near a stream. Certain plants, such as soapworts, have leaves that produce sap ions, chemical compounds that give a soapy lather. These were probably the first detergents people used. If you look up detergent in a dictionary it is simply defined as cleaning agent. During the last two to three decades, however, the word detergent has tended to imply synthetic detergent, rather than the older soap. In fact, commercial formulations consist of a number of components, and we shall use the term surface-active agent, or it's abbreviation surfactant, to describe the special active ingredients that give detergents their unusual properties. Soap, by this definition, is a surfactant. In fact, it is the oldest one and has been in use for over 4500 years. Some soap manufacture took place in Venice and Savona in the fifteenth century and in Marseilles in the seventeenth century. By the eighteenth century, manufacture was widespread throughout Europe and North America, and by the nineteenth century the making of soap had become a major industry. As a matter of fact, soap became a detergent in 1907 when a German company put the product "Persil" on the market. In addition to the carboxylic acid soap, "Persil" contained sodium perborate, sodium silicate and sodium carbonate. Hence perborate + silicate = "PERSIL". Cleaning products play a vital role in our daily lives. By safely and effectively removing soils, germs and other contaminants they help us to stay healthy and keep our home and possessions clean. History Different types of laundry products exist to meet the needs and preferences of different consumers. Basic laundry products include detergents and laundry soaps. Other products like laundry aids include bleaches, bluing, detergent boosters, disinfectants, enzyme pre soakers, fabric softeners/conditioners, prewash soil and stain removers and water softeners. In the first half of the 20th century, consumers used laundry soaps. These products were variations of toilet soaps, with natural bases. The basic raw materials are fats/oils and alkalis. Despite improvements made over the years all soaps suffered from the drawback of combining water hardness minerals to form lime soap or curd which deposited on  3 the washing machine and the fabrics in the wash load. During WWI, synthetic laundry detergents were invented because of a shortage of fats and oils for making soap. Household detergent production in the US started in the early 1930s. It wasn’t until after WWII that their use soared with further wartime shortages and because they performed better over a broad range of water hardness levels. The breakthrough in the development of household detergents came in 1946 when built detergents were introduced. Phosphate builders improved detergent performance, rendering them suitable for heavy duty cleaning. By 1953, sales of detergents surpassed that of soap in the US. Current laundry detergents are classified by their heavy-duty or light-duty performance and are available in granule or liquid forms. Detergents are chemicals designed to assist in the removal of soil from a surface and are available as powders, liquids, foams or gels. Detergents have two modes of action (physical & chemical) depending on their makeup and the soil they are acting upon. Non-Soap Detergents/ Non-Detergent Soap A non-detergent soap is a cleaning agent made by reacting alkalis with natural fats; vegetable fats, oils, or animal fats. These alkalis basically, lies (sodium hydroxide), are reacted with fats through saponification resulting in glycerol and fatty acids, also known as “soap.” A Brief History of Non-detergent Soap Soap production can be traced back in history to around 2800 BC in the Babylonian Kingdom, where historians stumbled upon evidence of its use in ancient Roman literature. Later, evidence of soap usage is found in medieval Europe, believed to have been a luxury product among the privileged of society. With time the use of soap spread fast to the US, courtesy of the discovery of the link between some diseases and poor personal hygiene. Since then, the manufacture and usage of soap have spread worldwide to become the household cleaning staple it is today.  4 Different Types of Non-detergent Soaps Toilet Soaps Toilet soaps are soaps used for personal hygiene. Further, this class of soaps can be broken into different sub-classes based on Total Fat Matter (TFM), which refers to the cleaning material content in a given soap. In general, soaps with a higher percentage of TFM are of higher quality. Laundry Sopas Laundry soaps are non-detergent soaps used in cleaning garments. They are manufactured by using natural plants, animal fats, and oils. In their original form, laundry soaps contain few surfactants and synthetic additives, making their cleaning power low. Having said that, all laundry soaps are not made equal. Some soaps are formulated purely with safe use organic agents, making them some of the few powerful non-detergent soaps out there. Beauty Sopas As the name suggests, beauty soaps are designed to cleanse and smoothen the skin. Modern beauty soaps are designed with different ingredients to increase their cleaning power. For example, contains additives such as shea butter, chamomile, and coconut oil, among other ingredients. These soaps are for moisturizing, removing shed-off skin, and protecting the skin from drying. When it comes to their presentation, they can be in the form of bars, gels, liquid washes, or different colours and scents. Novelty Soaps Besides their usual cleaning functions, novelty soaps are mainly for aesthetic appeal. Often, they are handcrafted to form rare forms such as cars, birds, ducks, or fish. And they are specifically tailor-made for a specific niche market looking for these kinds of products. That explains why they are more expensive than ordinary soaps. Plus, they are especially appealing to children to encourage bathing.  5 Medicated Soaps Medicated soaps are specifically formulated with other additives for preventing or treating skin problems. These include fungal and bacterial infections such as acne, blackheads, and rashes. To fight these problems, the soaps contain additives such as triclosan, triclocarban, and tetrasodium. Others are organic antifungal extracts; lemongrass, citronella, eucalyptus oil, and peppermint. All this is besides their skin cleaning power, moisturizing and soothing effects. Glycerine Soaps Glycerine soaps are excellent skin-nourishing soaps due to their humectant properties, making them capable of absorbing moisture and keeping the skin hydrated all the time. Moreover, most of the ingredients of glycerine soaps are organic. That is why they’re considered safe for personal use and for the environment as well. Due to these properties, glycerine is recommended for people with skin drying issues such as eczema or psoriasis. Transparent Soaps Transparent soaps are so-called due to their see-through appearance. They result from a hot soap-making process that involves using sugar, water, and glycerine to dissolve soap resulting in a clear solid. Generally, transparent soaps are considered milder and more nourishing to the skin due to other additives such as jojoba and shea butter. Milk Soaps Milk soaps are so named for the use of milk as one of the ingredients in their manufacture. During the cold saponification process, milk is used to replace the entire or part of water requirements. Mostly, goat milk is the preferred type, although others such as almonds, soymilk, and milk powders can also be used. Milk soaps are high-quality soaps that lather easily and have a skin-nourishing feel. For their mildness and gentleness, they are highly recommended for use on infant skins. Flavoured Soaps Soap flavouring involves adding additives that alter their look, feel, and scents. Usually, this is done by using organic extracts in the formulation to add the desired outcome.  6 Common Flavors include coffee and chocolate scents, peppermint, vanilla, seaweed, lemongrass, eucalyptus, etc. These ingredients make them more soothing and invigorating. Luxury Soaps These are premium soaps whose manufacture requires the addition of rare ingredients. While the manufacturing process is the same as the other soaps, the makers include ingredients such as sandalwood, chocolate, almond, and chocolate. Owing to the high cost of the ingredients, these soaps are expensive and are mainly targeted at the premium clientele. But overall, they are highly nourishing to the skin and are in high demand. Perfumed Soaps Perfumed soaps are made to serve a certain section of the market that prefers strongly scented soaps. These include aromatherapy establishments, saunas, and spas. Other than the strong fragrances, they are also powerful in cleansing and invigorating the skin. A common example of fragrances is mint, which helps eliminate body Odor, increases blood flow to the skin, and maintains general skin health. Castile Soap Castile soap owes its name to the Castille region of Spain, where it was originally manufactured from olive oils. While the modern method of manufacture has not changed much, the ingredients have evolved to include other oils. Examples include coconut oils, hemp oils, castor, avocado, and almond oil, among others. It’s famed for its cleansing power, moisturizing, and mildness to the skin. Detergents There are many cleaning products present on the market and the majority are what we refer to as detergents. A detergent is a substance or a mixture containing soaps and/or surfactants (any organic substance/mixture) intended for washing and cleaning processes. Detergents may be in many forms, for example, traditional powders, unit dose tablets, concentrated liquids, liquid capsules, pastes or cakes, and come in a range  7 of variants to meet consumers’ needs on cleaning, skincare, fabric care and fragrances. They may be for household, institutional or industrial purposes. Examples of everyday detergent products are laundry and fabric softeners, all- purpose cleaners and mixtures intended for soaking (pre-washing) rinsing or bleaching. Detergents may also be biocidal, e.g., disinfectants, bleaches. Please see biocidal detergent products section for more details. When selecting a detergent, the following points should be considered: Type of soil to be removed Cleaning method required Cleaning equipment available Will disinfection be required? Time window Water hardness Chemical concentration required Water temperature Materials of construction Operator safety Risk to food safety Cost Detergent Components Surfactants (Surface Active Agents) are an important part of any detergent as they enable the detergent to increase the “wetting power” of water by reducing its surface tension. This ability increases the contact between the soil and the detergent solution and allows it to penetrate the minute irregularities of the dirt more effectively. The base of a detergent will determine what type of detergent it is – alkaline, acid or neutral. For example, in an alkaline detergent, the base is usually caustic soda (sodium hydroxide). In some cases, the detergent may have a chlorine donor that is added to assist in protein and stain removal. The chlorine donor is there primarily for this purpose and not as a biocide. Inhibitors are sometimes added to detergents to reduce the attack on the metal surface (for instance inhibitors added to hydrochloric acid formulations - Descale). Alternatively, the formulation may be designed to prevent attack on soft metals such as aluminium, tin and brass (Silicate alkaline products - Chloroform 2000). Synthetic Detergents synthetic detergent is any synthetic substance, other than soap, that is an effective cleanser and functions equally well as a surface-active agent in hard or soft water. It is a non-soap cleanser that exerts its effect by lowering the surface tension of an aqueous cleansing mixture.  8 Synthetic detergents are used for a variety of applications, such as: Washing clothes Fuel additives to prevent fouling Biological reagents soap less cleansers used in an array of products Synthetic detergents are cleaning chemical agents that have all of the qualities of soap but include no soap. Hence this is a non-soap cleanser that exerts its impact by reducing the surface tension of an aqueous cleaning mixture. They produce foam even in hard water, these can be used in both soft and hard water. Some detergents produce foam even in ice-cold water. Example Sodium lauryl sulphate and Sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate are examples of synthetic detergents. Synthetic detergents can be classified as: Anionic: Having negatively charged head and widely used due to low cost and good performance. Uses include: Laundry detergents Dishwashing liquids Oven cleaners Cationic: Having a positively charged head. Uses include: Cleaning plastics Hair shampoos Fabric softeners and conditioners Non-ionic or neutral: Having an uncharged head. Uses include: Car shampoos Dishwasher detergents and Cosmetics.  2.3 STAINS Care and Renovation of Textiles Semester V, B. Voc Fashion Design Module 2.3  2 Stains and Classification of Stains Stain is an area of discoloration that penetrates the cloth surface, caused by a local deposit of soil or discoloration on a substrate cloth that exhibits some degree of resistance to removal, as by laundering or dry cleaning. The biggest culprit is a simple process known as oxidation. Oxidation is a chemical reaction that happens between substances when they are left on fabrics. (And then exposed to heat or sunlight). The treatment of stains requires immediate action. Some of the first-aid treatments include blotting, grease absorbent, salt absorbent and often a cold- water rinse. There are two major factors which are responsible for ensuring correct stain removal. One is the stain removal agent and the other is the method of stain removal. Methods to Get Rid of Stains Sponge or soak stain in cool water. Pretreat with prewash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, liquid detergent booster or paste of powder laundry product and water. Launder using sodium hypochlorite bleach, if safe for fabric, or oxygen bleach. Home Remedy for Fabric Stains White vinegar is a magical stain remover to have on hand in your laundry room.  3 1. Apply white vinegar to the area, let it soak in for a couple minutes. 2. Pour salt onto the stained area, then work it in with your fingers. 3. Put the garment in the sun and let it air dry. 4. Wash as usual. 5. Check to see if the stain's gone, repeat the steps if not. Simply sprinkle baking soda onto a wet stain, leave it overnight and you'll be surprised by the results. Not only will the stain likely be gone, but so too will any related Odors – no need for an additional paste. As long as you cover the entire area of the stain with baking soda, it should do the trick. Classification of Stains Stains are broadly classified under six headings. Namely: 1. Protein stain 2. Tannin stains 3. Oil – based stains 4. Dye stains 5. Combination Stains 6. Stains require special treatment methods Protein Stains: Baby food, Milk, Blood, Cream, Cheese sauce, Pudding, Egg, Gelatine, White glue, Ice cream.  4 Tannin Stains: Types of Tannin stains are as follows: Alcoholic beverages, Beer, Berries, Coffee, Tea, Juice, Cologne, Washable ink, soft drinks. Oil – based stains: The following are known as oil- based stains: Automobile oil, Hair oil, Lotion, Butter, Grease, Cooking oil, Creams Collar, Cuff greasing rings. DyeStains: Types or dye stains are as follows: - Cherry, blue berry, colour bleeding in wash (dye transfer) Grass, Indian IWL, Paint, Felt tip pen ink and mustard.  5 Combination Stains: Combination of these type of stains are grouped under A and B tittles. The following are the mentioned here under: Group A Ball point link, Candle wax, Carbon paper, Crayon, Eye make-up pencils, Floor wax, resin, shoe polish, Tar. Group B Calamine lotion, tomato sauce, Cocoa or Chocolate, Face make-up (power, rouge, foundation) Gravy or Hair spray. Stains that require special treatment methods: Chewing gum, Deodorants, Nail polish, Lead Pencil varnish, pesticide, Rust, smoke, water spots. Removal techniques: Removal techniques of light stains can be pre-treated with liquid laundry detergent and then launder. For heavy stains, pre – treat with pre- wash stain remover for 5 to 15 minutes. After that laundering is to be done using an oxygen bleach. Below are some examples of stains and how to remove them: Nail Polish -acetone and spot treatment method.  6 Lead pencil: Spray with pre-treatment aerosol product, rub in heavy duty liquid detergent, rinse in worm water and then launder. Mildew: heavy duty liquid detergent and then launder in hot water. Bleach if/as safe for cloth. Paint / Varnish: using of thinner turpentine spot washing and then heavy- duty detergent work is recommended perspiration, stub born stains may be responded to washing in an enzyme. Containing product or oxygen bleach in hottest water as safe for cloth.  7 Rust: Hydrofluoric acid, oxalic acid. Smoke: Heavy – duty phosphate-based detergent or liquid. Methods to apply stain removers: There are four methods namely: Dip method, Steam method, Drop method, Sponge method. There are five Stain removal products: Absorbent materials, Detergents, Bleach, Pre-treatment products, Odour reducing agent’s pre-treatment products are, Aerosol sprays, Gel tyres, Pump spray, squeeze bottle, stain stick.  8 Stain removal chemicals are: Alcohol, Ammonia, colour remover, colour whitener, Dry cleaning fluid, glycerine white vinegars. Precaution Tips The precautions are necessary to observe in spotting are as follows: Consider the kind and characteristics of material, colour of the material, nature of the stain, using of the simplest reagents first, using of medicine dropper, providing plenty of padding, and change frequently, place a stain downwards and work from the wrong side, always doing the stain removal from clothes much faster and quicker is yield the best result. 2.4 TREATING STAINS WITHOUT DAMAGING FABRICS AND GARMENTS Care and Renovation of Textiles Semester V, B. Voc Fashion Design Module 2.4.1  2 Stains Treatment and Spot Treatment Stain is an area of discoloration that penetrates the cloth surface, caused by a local deposit of soil or discoloration on a substrate cloth that exhibits some degree of resistance to removal, as by laundering or dry cleaning. Stains may occur on the surface of the fabric due to many reasons. Fresh stains are much easier to remove than old ones, so take care of stains promptly. Different procedures are used to treat the stains from the fabrics. There are two basic approaches to removing spots and stains. You can use a stain- removal agent that interacts with the stain chemically, or you can physically loosen or remove the stain from the surface. Many stubborn stains require both chemical and physical treatment. In this chapter, we discuss eight physical stain-removal techniques: brushing, flushing, freezing, pre-soaking, pre-treating, scraping, sponging, and tamping. Which technique to use in treating a particular spot or stain depends upon both the nature of the stain and the type of surface stained. For example, a stain may be wet or dry, semisolid or hardened. On a very delicate surface, you may not be able to use such techniques as scraping and tamping. A stain may be flushed more easily from a loosely woven fabric than from one that is tightly woven; but a tightly woven fabric can withstand a treatment such as tamping more successfully.  3 Follow these directions carefully to assure successful stain removal without harm to the stained article. Note that whenever you use absorbent pads (when you flush or sponge a stain) you should check the pad frequently and change it as soon as any of the stain is deposited. This will prevent reapplication of the stain to the treated article. Remember, too, that to avoid fabric damage you should never apply heavy pressure when using techniques such as brushing, tamping, or scraping. Brushing Brushing is used to remove dried stains and spots. Some spots, such as those formed of dried mud, may be completely removed by brushing. In treating other types of dry stains (for example, face powder), brushing is just the first step in treating the stain. In treating some stains, brushing may be one of the last steps, as when you want to remove an absorbent or a dried stain-removing paste from a surface. Use a small, stiff-bristled brush for this technique. A toothbrush works well on small stains. When working on a fabric, stretch the piece on a firm, clean working surface. Hold a clean sheet of paper next to the stain (on walls, hold the paper beneath the stain) so that you can brush the staining material onto the paper. Use a gentle motion to brush the stain up off the surface and onto the paper. It may help to blow softly on the spot as you brush. Flushing Flushing is used to remove loosened staining materials and any residue from the stain-removal agent. This is an important step in the process, for if any chemicals are left in the material, they may cause additional staining or they may damage the treated article.  4 When flushing a stain, especially one on a no washable fabric, you need to control the flow of water carefully. To apply a measured amount of flushing liquid, use a device such as an eyedropper or plant mister, or a plastic trigger spray bottle that can be adjusted to spray a fine stream. Before you begin the treatment, place a clean absorbent pad beneath the spot, then slowly and carefully apply the recommended stain remover to the stain. If you decide to use a mister, place the tip against the stained area and depress the plunger or pump the trigger slowly. In this way, you can force out a thin stream of fluid without wetting a large area. You must work slowly; do not apply the liquid faster than the pad beneath can absorb it and do not spread the stain. Replace the absorbent pad frequently so that the deposited staining material does not restrain the fabric. Stains on area rugs may be flushed following the directions above. In fact, any rug under which you can place an absorbent pad can be treated by flushing. If, however, your rug is too large to lift or if the stain is on tacked-down rugs or carpeting, you may have to sponge the stain-removal agent onto the spot instead. Then sponge with clear water to remove chemical residues. Remember, the pad or cloth used for sponging must be changed frequently. If you are treating a washable fabric and directions call for flushing with water, you may rinse the stained article. To rinse out a stain, dip the article up and down repeatedly in a container of warm water. Change the rinse water frequently. Pre-treating Pre-treating is used to ease the removal of small stains, especially those that are oily or greasy. Stubborn soil, such as the ground-in dirt on collars, cuffs, and socks, is easier to remove after it's been pretreated. When you are pre-treating a stain, you apply the stain-removing agent directly to the stained area. To pretreat a stain, you may use a liquid detergent, a soil-and-stain-removing pretreat spray, bar soap, or a pre-treating paste made of powdered detergent (do not use one that contains bleach) and water.  5 Liquid detergent and pre-treating sprays should be applied directly onto the dry stain. If you are using bar soap or have prepared a paste of powdered or granular detergent and water, dampen the fabric slightly before applying the pre-treating agent. After its application, rub the pretreated into the stain gently, then wash the item as you normally do. To use pre-treating sprays successfully, you should keep a few points in mind. Pretest the spray by applying it to an inconspicuous part of the garment before using it on the stain. Most of these sprays are perfectly safe on all washable fabrics, but some contain an oxygen-type bleach ingredient that could harm some dyes. Apply the product according to package directions, wait 5 minutes, and then rinse the pretest area carefully. If no color change is apparent, you can safely treat the stain. After using one of these sprays, it is essential that you wash the treated article thoroughly to remove both the rest of the stain and any residue from the pretreat spray. Allowing the residue to set may cause a new stain. More Stain Removal Techniques Learn the stain removal techniques for pre-soaking, scraping, freezing, sponging, and tamping. Pre-soaking Pre-soaking is a useful and effective treatment for washable articles that are greyed, yellowed, or heavily stained. You can presoak laundry in the washer or in a sink or tub. Use warm water. Sort the soiled items before pre-soaking; noncolor fast items should be soaked separately or with similar colours and for only a short time.  6 How long you should presoak stained articles depends upon the stain and the fiber. For most stains, 30 minutes should be adequate. Noncolor fast items should be soaked only briefly. Heavily stained items or stains that have set for a long time may require overnight soaking. You may want to add bleach, laundry detergent, or an enzyme presoak product to the soaking water. However, avoid using enzyme products on silk or wool, and do not use chlorine bleach and an enzyme product at the same time. Whenever you add anything to the water used for pre-soaking, make sure that the item is then thoroughly rinsed before you launder it. There should not be any residue from the presoak product left in the item when it is washed. Scraping Scraping can be used to lift off excess semisolid staining material and to loosen caked-on stains. Removal of as much of such material as possible makes it easier for the stain-removing agent to reach the surface, and although scraping may not remove a stain completely, it is often a necessary step before applying a stain remover. Do not use an absorbent pad beneath an item you are going to scrape. For your scraping tool use a dull knife, spoon, or spatula. Don't press hard, but move the edge of your scraping tool back and forth across the stain in short strokes. Be gentle to avoid damaging the stained surface. To remove some stains, you must add liquid as you scrape, working the liquid into the stain as you remove excess material.  7 Freezing Some staining substances, such as candle wax and gum, can be hardened by the application of cold so that they are easier to remove. Work fast when treating a spill that is still semisolid. You may be able to limit the area stained by quickly hardening the staining material. To freeze a stain, hold one or more ice cubes against it. If the stained item is not washable, place the ice in a plastic bag. If the stained item is portable and the stain is large, you may put the article into a plastic bag and place it in the freezer. Take the item out when the staining material solidifies. After the stain has solidified, it can usually be gently lifted or scraped from the surface. Any residue may require further stain-removal treatment. Sponging Sponging is one of the most frequently used methods of applying many stain- removing agents, including water. Sponging is another technique in which clean absorbent sponge pads are used. The stained item should be laid on a sponge pad, stain side down, if possible. You may have to sponge stains on carpets without any absorbent pad beneath, in which case you must be especially careful to wet the carpet as little as possible. Use another clean pad or a clean sponge to apply the stain-removing agent. Dampen this pad with the agent specified in the stain-removal directions and sponge the stain gently. Use light strokes and work outward from the centre of the stain. Try to keep your sponging strokes as close to the stain as possible. Use  8 only enough stain remover to dampen the sponge and move in an irregular pattern. By following these directions, you are less likely to cause rings to form. Check the pad beneath the stain at frequent intervals and examine the sponging pad as well. Change the pad as soon as any stain is deposited on it. In this way, the staining agent will not be reapplied to the fabric. Certain fabrics, including acetate, triacetate, and rayon, are more likely than others to develop rings when treated with this technique. So, when sponging stains on these fabrics, you must be even more careful. Barely wet the sponge with stain remover and touch the fabric lightly so that the stain remover is absorbed as slowly as possible. Limit your strokes to the immediate stained area to keep the moistened area as small as possible and avoid spreading the stain. After the stain is removed, dry the fabric as quickly as possible. Blot the treated area gently between clean, dry absorbent pads; then allow it to dry. Unless you have used only water as the stain-removal agent, do not use heat in drying. Tamping Tamping is a stain-removal technique that is effective on durable, tightly woven fabrics, but it may damage more delicate materials. When stain-removal directions call for tamping, the only tool you need is a small brush (a soft-bristled toothbrush is usually fine). Place the stained article on the work surface; there's no need for an absorbent pad. Hold the brush 2 or 3 inches above the stain and bring it down directly on the stain repeatedly in light strokes. You are using too much pressure if the bristles bend. Try to hit the stained area squarely with the tips of the bristles. You are more likely to damage the fabric if you hit it with the side of the brush. To avoid harming the fabric, stop tamping as soon as the spot is removed. Tightly woven fabrics of high-twist yarn are able to withstand more tamping than loosely woven fabrics of slight-or moderate-twist yarn. Each of these various methods have a different purpose but the same desired outcome. One can use one or a combination of these as directions specify.  9 Spot Treatment Technique (Sponging) for Apparel Fabrics A spot treatment confines the stain to a small area and keeps sit from spreading. This method is sometimes called "sponging." For spot treatment you need a supply of absorbent material such as, clean rags or paper towels, and a dry-cleaning solvent, spot remover, or aerosol pretreatment spray. Follow these steps: 1. Pad the working surface with clean rags or paper towels that can be stained as you work. 2. Place the stained area or spot on the garment face-down over the padded surface. 3. Dampen a small white cloth with solvent. 4. Use the dampened cloth to pat the stain from the wrong side. Feather the edges of the stain working from the outside toward the centre to keep the stained area from getting larger. 5. As the stain transfers to the absorbent material beneath, move it to a different place on the absorbent material so the stain has a clean place to exit into. 6. Repeat this procedure until all traces of stain are gone. Launder to remove any ring that might be left by the solvent.  10 Home Remedies for Stain removal  11 Chemical Solvents and Supplies Supplies needed for stain removal can usually be found in grocery, drug, general merchandise, or paint stores. Many commercially available products have proprietary formulas that are protected by patent rights and not available to the public. Ingredients listed on labels for safety purposes can help you decide if the product will be useful for the stain removal task, you have to do. There is no miracle product that will remove all stains.  12 Detergents Heavy-duty liquid detergents (Era, Fab, Grease Relief, Tide, Wisk) Light-duty liquid detergents (deli care, Ivory, Lux, Woolite) Powdered detergents (Amway, Cheer, Dash, Oxydol, Sears, Tide) Bleaches Hydrogen peroxide Powdered all-fabric bleaches (sodium perborate) (Biz, Bora teem, Clorox-2, Snowy) Liquid all-fabric bleaches (Snowy, Vivid) Liquid chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite)  13 Liquid chlorine bleaches have a limited shelf-life. If your bleach is more than six months old and has no effect on stains, it may need to be replaced with fresh bleach. To test for color fastness to liquid chlorine bleaches, mix I tablespoon of bleach with 1/4 cup of water. Use an eyedropper to put a drop of this solution on a hidden seam or pocket edge inside the garment. Let it stand two minutes, then blot dry. If there is no color change it is safe to use the product. Powdered bleach packages have directions for doing color fastness tests. Pretreatment Products Aerosol sprays-petroleum-based solvent (Clorox, Shout, Sprays’ Wash) Pump-type sprays-- detergent based (Clorox, Shout, Sprays’ Wash) Absorbent Materials Clean white cloths Paper towels(white) Sponges (white or neutral coloured) Caution: Coloured sponges or paper towels can bleed dyes onto fabrics, making dye stains that may be difficult to remove.  14 Odor-reducing Agents Activated charcoal Calcium carbonate Soda Follow These Safety Precautions While many stain removal, chemicals and bleaches are commonly used around the home, they are still dangerous. Some are flammable; others are toxic. Here are some rules to keep in mind regarding their use: Store stains removal materials out of the reach of children. Do not store with food products. Read all label directions and warnings. Store chemicals in their original containers so label directions are available in case of an accident. Use all chemicals and commercial stain removal product according to label recommendations. Avoid getting the chemicals on your skin. Some are easily absorbed. Use dry cleaning solvents and other chemicals in a well-ventilated room. Toxic fumes can cause illness. Do not use solvents near an open flame or electrical outlet. Seal containers so that fumes can't escape. Never mix stain removal materials together (bleach and ammonia together form toxic fumes). 2.4 TREATING STAINS WITHOUT DAMAGING FABRICS AND GARMENTS Care and Renovation of Textiles Semester V, B. Voc Fashion Design Module 2.4.2  2 Stain Removal Guidelines 4 Golden Rules of Stain Removal 1. Absorb it. First lift off or soak up as much of the staining substance as possible. 2. Dissolve it. Residue that can't be absorbed needs to be dissolved. 3. Use a detergent. Greasy or fatty stains, such as gravy, will not dissolve in water. 4. Use a chemical reaction. General Guidelines to Removing Stains from Washable Fabrics: The following general procedures apply to nearly all stains. Fresh stains are much easier to remove than old ones, so take care of stains promptly. 1. Blot up any excess liquid with a clean white cloth, paper, or other towels. Remove excess solids by gentle scraping or chipping with a dull knife or metal spatula. With some solids such as heavy amounts of surface mud removal may be easier after the stain has dried. Excess can be brushed off before the clothing is submerged for washing. 2. Avoid rubbing the stained area with a linty terry towel or a dark-coloured cloth. You may complicate the problem.  3 3. Never rub a fresh stain with bar soap. Soap sets many stains. 4. Decide if the fabric is washable or dry cleanable. If dry cleanable, take to the cleaners as soon as possible (within 24 to 48 hours). 5. Do not try to treat suede, leather, or fur. Professional cleaners are needed for these items, and even some professionals do not offer this service. 6. Avoid using hot water on stains of unknown origin. Hot water can set protein Stains such as milk, egg, or blood. 7. Test stains removal agents on a seam or hidden area of the garment to be sure it does not affect the color or finish of the fabric before starting on the stain. 8. Avoid excessive rubbing unless fabric is tough and durable. Rubbing can spread the stain and damage the fiber, finish, or color. 9. Do not iron or press stained fabrics. Heat will set most stains. 10. Check laundry for stains before washing. Many stains need pretreatment. 11. Inspect wet laundry before drying to be sure stain has been removed. If a stain is still evident, do not dryer dry. The heat of drying will tend to make the stain more permanent. 12. Wash heavily soiled items separately. During laundering soil is broken into smaller particles and can be re deposited on cleaner clothing if insufficient detergent is used, water temperature is too, low, washing time too long or washer is overloaded with too many clothes Stain is an area of discoloration that penetrates the cloth surface, caused by a local deposit of soil or discoloration on a substrate cloth that exhibits some degree of resistance to removal, as by laundering or dry cleaning. The biggest culprit is a simple process known as oxidation. Oxidation is a chemical reaction that happens between substances when they are left on fabrics. (And then exposed to heat or sunlight). Types of Fabrics Cotton - Cotton can endure hot water, cold water, repeated washing and scrubbings. If the stain is on cotton, you have the most removal options. Wool - More delicate than cotton, wool cannot endure repeated washing and should be spread flat to dry.  4 Synthetic - Stains on synthetic fabrics can be tricky, especially paint stains. Some solvents like acetone or ammonia can melt or degrade the fabric. Be careful. Silk - A very delicate fabric, silk can be ruined if the stain removal efforts are too hostile. It may be best to take stained silk to a professional dry cleaner.  5 Stain-Removing Solvents Water - Hot, cold, free, fresh and plentiful. Water will be your first line of defence. Rinse, blot, dab and repeat; water by itself can’t do much damage. Vinegar - Vinegar is a natural and effective stain remover. When using it on wool or synthetics, use sparingly, and consider spot-testing in an inconspicuous area first. Hydrogen Peroxide - Great for removing blood or rust stains, hydrogen peroxide has a bleach effect without the destructive color change. It is color safe and also disinfects. Detergent/Stain Remover - Use these to scrub out stains before you launder clothes normally. Stain removers have special enzymes to help release stubborn stains. Rubbing Alcohol - Effective for removing inks, dyes and chemical-based stains. Ammonia - A common and useful household cleaning chemical. Dilute it in a spray bottle. Never mix ammonia with bleach. Dish Soap - A mild and versatile solvent. Mixed with water, dish soap is effective on grease, condiments and just about anything. Mineral Spirits/Acetone - These are necessary to remove paint stains but can be harsh on synthetics. Bleach - Effective yet harsh, bleach is usually a last-resort option for removing stains from whites. General Stain Removal Tips Air dry first. Before drying the garment in a dryer, make sure the stain is removed. Otherwise, the heat could set the stain. Can’t bring your car to the sink to remove the vomit? A wet/dry vacuum is very handy for stains that can’t be laundered, brought to the sink or easily reached. Just use the suction to remove water and cleaning solutions along with the stain. Treat all stains as quickly as possible. Always spot-test solvents on clothing before proceeding. Test if a garment is colourfast: Pour a small amount of hot vinegar in a small area, and let it rest for three minutes. Blot it with a paper towel. If color comes off, the garment is not colorcast, and color could bleed.  6 Some stains remove best when cold. Stick the garment in the freezer, put an ice cube on top of the stain or spray it with a can of compressed air upside down. If the stain persists, repeat steps as necessary. LAUNDERING OF TEXTILES Care and Renovation of Textiles Semester V, B. Voc Fashion Design Module 2.5  2 Laundering Process LAUNDERING Laundering of clothes involves the following steps: Soaking Soaking of fabric in water loosens the non-greasy dust particles because of up and down movement of water molecules. Fabrics which become weak when wet must not be soaked for long. Do not soak too many clothes in one bucket. There must be a room for dirt to disentangle from the fabric. Fabrics must not be soaked for longer than half an hour otherwise loosened dust will resettle on the fabrics.  3 Washing As said earlier, soaked clothes must be washed soon. The process of washing involves removal of dirt that has been loosened from fabrics by soaking. There are many ways to do this and the choice depends on the fabric being washed. You will now learn about these methods and their suitability to various types of fabrics. Methods of Washing i. Friction method: For washing strong fabrics like cotton and linen this is the right method. You can apply friction in any of the following three ways. Hand friction: This is the most common method of washing clothes. Rub dirty areas vigorously with the hand till the dirt is removed. It is suitable for cleaning very soiled small sized areas in the garment like cuffs, collar and bottom of the lower garments, handkerchief and lace.  4 Scrubbing brush: While cleaning kitchen dusters which are very soiled use a brush to remove dirt, grease and stains. Remember to place the fabric on a flat hard surface before scrubbing. Hard scrubbing can clean the fabric well but wears it out. Have you noticed that if you use brush on shirt collars they get worn out? Therefore, scrubbing has to be used as per the nature of the fabric. Beating stick: While washing large clothes like bed sheets and towels use a wooden beating stick to provide friction. Remember that this is done only on a clean, flat and hard surface. Spread the fabric on the floor, apply soap and then beat it with the stick, constantly changing the surface of the fabric with the other hand.  5 ii. Washing by kneading and squeezing: This method is for delicate fabrics like silk, wool, rayon, etc. This does not damage the fabric or change its shape because only gentle pressure is applied repeatedly with hands. While it is still in the soapy solution. While using this method dip the cloth in soap solution, take it out and squeeze gently and again dip in the soap. In between rub the dirty areas gently between two hands. Repeat till clean. iii. Washing in machines: ‘Washing machine’ a labour-saving device and provides all the friction required for cleaning the clothes. The washing time varies with the type of fabrics and amount of soiling. For example, wool fabrics take less time for cleaning than cottons. Washing machines available in the market are automatic, semi-automatic and non-automatic. The advantage of using automatic washing machine is that it has a spinner which can wring the clothes after washing to the extent that these are almost dry. This is especially useful while washing large and heavy articles like bedcovers, curtains, etc. The instructions about using the machine should be read carefully before using it. One should be careful while loading clothes for washing in a machine as the colour of some fabrics may bleed and spoil the other clothes in the machine. Rinsing  6 Washed fabrics must be rinsed at least thrice or till they leave behind clear water. Why do we need to do that? If not rinsed well the contents of leftover detergent would harm the fabric. Finishing Agents Some of your clothes require the application of a finishing agent before they are spread for drying. A finishing agent is nothing but something which helps to brighten and/or stiffen the fabric and give it a brighter and fresher look. You know what starch and/ or blue your white cotton clothes need. Both these are finishing agents for cottons. For silks, a different starch is used. It is called ‘gum Arabic’. Similarly, there are ‘blues’ and brightening agents to brighten your white clothes. You will know more about these in the chapter on fabric finishes.  7 Drying Clothes should preferably be dried outside in fresh air and sun. Use a clothes line and pegs or clips to hold the clothes or a clean stain free metal rack. Hang or spread the clothes and place the rack in the sun or shade depending on the type of clothes you have washed. Remember to turn clothes inside out if they are coloured. If you are using a clothes line, see that you spread your clothes on it in such a way that it allows air to pass through them. Not only do the clothes dry up much faster this way, it is an environment friendly method. Sunlight also kills some germs. Hence, it is recommended that under garments and the clothes used as sanitary napkins must be sun dried. Ironing or steam pressing and folding This process is applied on clothes to give them a smooth look. An electric or coal iron is used to carry out this job. There are various types of electric irons available in the market. Those with metal heating surface, Teflon (nonstick coated surface or steam irons) You can buy any of them and learn to use them from the instructions given along in the package.  8 Storing Remember that clothes are stored back in a cupboard or box only after they are completely dry. Since you need to dampen the clothes for ironing, spread the clothes again in fresh air after ironing till they are completely dry. Put them back in the cupboard or box for final storage. LAUNDERING OF SPECIFIC FABRICS You have learnt the basics of laundering clothes. Is this information sufficient to launder all types of clothes you use at home? Let us now use this knowledge for laundering dirty clothes at home and see what more we need to know. Collect all the dirty clothes in your house and see what you have. Do you remember the pre-preparation you need to do before washing and finishing these clothes? Let us see. Here is a pile of dirty clothes. What is your first step? Yes, you are right it is sorting out the clothes. So, you make the following piles after sorting: Cottons clothes consisting of white inner garments, Pyjama, salwar, petticoat, shirts, dusters from kitchen, bed sheets, pillow slips, and so on. Coloured cottons like saree, blouse, salwar suits and dupatta. Synthetics consisting of shirts, saree, blouse, dupatta and socks, etc. Silk saree, blouse, shirt, etc. Woolen sweater, muffler and a shawl. Separate very dirty clothes from less dirty ones, see if there are any repairs to be done and then see if there are any stains to be removed. If there is a care label attached, read it because it will tell you about the dos and “don’ts” while washing the item. You are now ready for the next step. Let us handle each pile you have separated, one by one.  9 Laundering of cottons Soaking: How and why will you soak your cotton items? Only white cottons are soaked to loosen the dirt settled or stuck to the fabric. They are soaked preferably in warm or hot water for half an hour depending on how dirty they are. Soak very dirty clothes separately. Yes, for two reasons, one because these are soaked for longer duration and in hot water and soap/detergent. Secondly, the loosened dirt from very dirty clothes will settle on the less dirty ones and make them dirtier. It is much easier to clean soaked fabrics. Washing: Dip all white clothes in soap/detergent solution. Apply extra soap on the heavily soiled areas and rub. Wash the light weight and lightly soiled cotton fabrics by using knead and squeeze method and big and heavy clothes using a stick. Rub areas which are very dirty with hands or with a brush. Rinsing: Why should we rinse clothes after washing? You have already learnt about it earlier in the lesson. If you do not remember, go back and refer to it. Cottons require application of a whitening agent in the last rinse. Why? What could you use for whitening? Yes, you are right. You use blue which is available as powder or liquid. These days you get chemicals like optical brighteners in the market. These are colour less florescent dyes which turn pale fabrics white and make then look brighter temporarily. Starching: Putting starch on the white clothes is another procedure which must be carried out before they are spread for drying. It is done to give cottons a smooth and shining fresh look. Also, starched articles do not get dirty that easily. You can prepare your own starch using arrowroot. Dissolve arrowroot in a little cold water to prepare a thick batter. Add boiling hot water to this batter stirring all the time till it changes colour to transparent. Your starch is ready. Now add some of this starch paste that you have made in a basin of water and mix well. The strength of starch depends on the thickness of fabric and stiffness  10 required. To make the fabric very stiff, dilute the full-strength starch with 2-3 times water. But add 4-6 times water to get reasonably good stiffness. Before starching a garment turn it inside out, open and dip it in water for even spread of starch in it. Wring out the excess water and then dip it in the starch solution. Squeeze the fabric well and hang it in the sun to dry. Note: The amount of stiffness is a matter of personal preference. Generally, we starch table linens like mats, tray cloths and napkins, heavily and inner wear garments lightly. Do not starch under garments and those garments which are close fitting like a blouse, as the starch it may cut into your skin and make you uncomfortable. If the articles have to be starched as well as blued, do it together in one solution, by adding blue to the diluted starch and water solution. Remember: If the article gets over blued, dip it in plain water with a few drops of white vinegar or lime juice. The extra blue will get removed. Drying: After rinsing, starching and bluing the clothes are dried. Hang the clothes by their strongest part along the clothes line. Articles dried in the sun should be removed as soon as they dry. Over exposure to sunlight can weaken the fabric and cause yellowness. Ironing: Cotton clothes are ironed best when they are evenly damp. But if they are starched, they must dry completely before they are brought in. Sprinkle water evenly on them, role them tightly and leave them for some time. Now open them one by one and iron with a hot iron. Leave them for some time to dry before storing. Storing: Remember, fungus grows quickly on cotton fabrics. Hence, while storing cottons make sure that they are completely dry. Laundering of coloured cottons Do not soak cottons, especially when their colour bleeds. Use mild or neutral soap for washing. Wash using kneading and squeezing method. Rinse thoroughly and apply starch after turning clothes inside out in the last rinse. Dry in shade. Iron clothes after making then evenly damp. Store clothes when completely dry.  11 Laundering of Synthetics Nylon, polyester and acrylic are synthetic fibers. Hence laundering synthetics is slightly different. Use Luke-warm or cold water. Do not use hot water as synthetics will wrinkle very badly. Do you remember why? Yes, they soften and melt easily. Use any good soap, light pressure and light rubbing while washing. Rinse well in cold water to remove soap completely. To avoid wrinkles, do not squeeze tightly. Preferably dry on a hanger. It will help to maintain the original shape. When dry, if necessary, iron with a warm iron and not a hot one (Refer to ironing temperature chart given later in the lesson). Do you recall why? Store when completely dry. Remember: While washing you can treat terry cot as synthetic fabrics. Laundering of silks Use Luke-warm or cold water, a good neutral soap, light pressure and light rubbing while washing. There is no need to soak silks. Rinse well in cold water to remove soap completely.  12 Apply starch (gum Arabic) and dry in shade. Pick up the clothes when evenly damp and iron with a warm iron. Do can you remember why? Yes, you are right, silk gets stained if water is sprinkled on dry clothes. Store preferably on hangers when completely dry. Laundering of Woolen Clothes Woolens are more delicate than any of the fabrics used in the house. Wool has hairy surface which causes felting if handled roughly. Hence woollens need utmost care while washing. Knitted woollen clothes lose shape when wet hence these need to be put back to shape after washing and need to be dried on a flat surface. Following steps should be followed for washing woollens: Take outline of the knitted dress on a paper before washing. Use mild alkaline soap/detergent dissolved in Luke warm water all through. Use kneading and squeezing method to wash. Rinse thoroughly. Knitted items must be brought back into shape by putting them back on the paper draft taken earlier and dried on flat surface in shade. Steam press if necessary. Store them when completely dry in a dry place either on a hanger or on a flat surface and along with naphthalene balls or ordinal tablets.