17th Century Fashion History PDF

International Fashion Academy International UNIT 3 Fashion FASHION HISTORY DURING THE 17TH CENTURY Academy  Unit Unit Name Number Unit 1 Presentation of the course Unit 2 Fash...

International Fashion Academy International UNIT 3 Fashion FASHION HISTORY DURING THE 17TH CENTURY Academy  Unit Unit Name Number Unit 1 Presentation of the course Unit 2 Fashion History during the Renaissance era Unit 3 Fashion History during the 17th century Road Map Unit 4 Fashion History during the 18th century & Unit 5 Fashion History during the 19th century Unit 6 Fashion History during the 20th century Objectives Unit 7 Assignment presentations  Unit Unit Name Number Unit 3 Fashion History during the 17th century Objectives Unit § Fashion & Social positioning during the 17th century: how fashion became 3 a soft political power tool § Understanding the style evolution through the development of court fashion § Understanding the impacts of Louis the 14th on the birth of luxury and on positioning Versailles (Paris) as the first fashion capital  The 17th century: historical context How men used to dress during the 17th century How women used to dress during the 17th century Content The development of the fashion industry during the 17th century The 17th century reinterpreted Takeaways Getting dressed during the 17 th century  Society composition: Baroque time (1625-1670) and Classicism time (after 1670) The world is dominated by centralised absolute monarchies (France, United Fast facts Kingdom, Spain) Territory expansion through the colonies (South-East Asia, Africa, Americas) Internationalisation of trades on 17 th The art of war becomes more and more complex and expensive, leading to taxes increases Main personalities: Philosophers: René Descartes century Artists: Molière, Lully, Le Brun, Le Nôtre Kings: Henri the 4th of France, Louis the 13th of France, Louis the 14th of France (aka the Sun King) Ministers: Mazarin, Cardinal Richelieu, Colbert (Finances minister under Louis (17th century the 14th) 1600-1699) Main symbols: Castle of Versailles The Mushketeers  DESCRIBE HOW THESE TWO PEOPLE ARE DRESSED: 17 th century fashion Portrait of an unknown couple, Bartholomeus van der Helst (1661)  The male silhouette will progressively evolve during the 17th century under the influence of the Kings of France. How men Three kings will have a strong influence: Henri the 4th (1589- 1610) who will set up the basis dressed for the French costume, Louis the 13th (1610-1643) who will make during the it more important, and Louis the 14th (1661-1715) who will impose it in all Europe. 17 th Louis the 14th will institute a centralized and absolute power with the Court of Versailles in century… order to control the nobility. His minister Colbert will put in place a system to develop the industry to reduce imports and to increase exports.  How 17th century men dressed Man’s dress composition under Henri the 4th (1589-1610): A shirt: acting as underwear Hoses: socks/stockings like item maintained with a garter Breeches: pants like garment worn on top of the hoses A codpiece: to fill in the open space between the legs and to hide the Cap sleeves crotch A doublet: acket covering the torso up to the waist. It has a round form on the top, worn with paddings at the shoulders and cap sleeves. The Doublet doublet could be slit. It had a straight collar and could be worn with a ruff. A cape: apparition during the 2nd half of the 16th century. A small coat Breeches worn on the shoulders. Hoses Henri the 4th, King of France (1553 – 1610)  How 17th century men dressed Under the influence of Louis the 13th and his pious personality, the male costume becomes sober. In 1633, Louis the 13th will adopt a Somptuary Law to suppress any type of extravaganza in dressing and to recommend a more austere fashion with plain fabrics and less lace for the collars and doublets’ wrists. Man’s dress composition under Louis the 13th (1610-1643): Shirt A shirt: acting as underwear whose sleeves will be seen Doublet through the doublet. Hoses: socks/stockings like item available in silk in all colors and in wool to wear during the Winter and when Breeches hunting. Boots’ stockings: stockings worn on the top of the silk stockings which top part looked like a large tub in lace Hoses meant to cover the top part of the boots. Breeches: pants like garment worn on top of the hoses reaching the knees. Boots’ stockings A doublet: jacket covering the torso up to the waist. The front part has a pointy ending. It was buttoned and left open to show the shirt. The sleeves are slit to show the shirt’s sleeves underneath. A cape: acts as a coat. Could be worn on both shoulders or just on one (à la Balagny fashion) Louis the 13th , King of France (1610 – 1643) How 17th century men dressed Cape Shirt Doublet Breeches Hoses Boots’ stockings Charles the 1st, King of England (1625 – 1649)  How 17th century men dressed With Louis the 14th, the man’s costume will evolve to include a notion of volume, somptuosity, diversity and extravaganza in the details. He will impose the court costume. Man’s dress composition under Louis the 14th (1643-1675): Doublet A shirt: acting as an underwear whose sleeves are seen through the doublet. Hoses: socks/stockings like items in silk. A rhingrave: a pants like garment replacing the breeches. It’s a pants whose legs are wide with many pleats and embellished with lace and ribbons. After 1680, the legs of the pants will become slimmer. Rhingrave (breeches) A doublet: jacket covering the torso up to the waist. It is worn open to show the shirt underneath. Its sleeves are short and it is embellished with ribbons. Hoses A justaucorps (or waistcoat): new item in the man’s wardrobe. It was worn at the beginning on top of the doublet which becomes an inside jacket, worn shorter and then looses its sleeves. A cape: acts as a coat. Could be worn on both shoulders or just on one (à la Balagny fashion) Louis the 14th , King of France (1661 – 1715)  How 17th century men dressed Shirt Doublet Justaucorps/waistcoat Breeches Hoses Louis the 14th , King of France End of the 17th century (1661 – 1715) Portrait of a noble man at the Court of Louis the 14th 1687  How 17th century men dressed The Court costume or “Grand Habit” is relatively the same for the king and for the noblemen. The main difference is in the ornamentation: embroidery, lace, ribbons, jewels help to differenciate the king from his subjects at the Court. Doublet Doublet Justaucorps/Waistcoat Cape Rhingrave/Breeches Rhingrave/Breeches  How 17th century men dressed The Court costume or “Grand Habit” Cape Shirt Doublet Rhingrave/Breeches Hoses Louis the 14th receiving ambassadors from 13 Swiss cantons at the Louvre, 1664, by Adam Frans Van der Meulen  How 17th century men dressed Evolution of the masculine silhouette Henri the 4th , King of France Charles the 1st, King of England Louis the 14th , King of France (1553 – 1610) (1625 – 1649) (1610 – 1643)  How 17th century men dressed Evolution of the masculine silhouette  How 17th century men dressed The tricorn hat is the hat in fashion. It is done in felt, Hairstyle embellished with feathers and other accessories. It can be worn slightly on the side. This The beard and hat is inspired by those worn in mustache fall out of the army. fashion. Hair is worn longer and longer and curly. At the end of the 17th century, men wear wigs as part of their court costume.  How 17th century men dressed Accessories The cravat The 16th century ruff disappears. It will be replaced by a large flat collar, falling on the shoulders, the whisk. The whisk will then be replaced by a jabot and finally by the cravat, which becomes an accessories of the Court costume.  How 17th century men dressed Accessories The cane The cane is introduced by Louis the 14th and becomes an unavoidable accessories for men at the Court. The cane symbolised elegance, good manners and wealth. It was created with luxurious materials and enables noblemen to express their personality and their social rank: Metals (gold, silver) Amber Ivory (imported) Precious woods  How 17th century men dressed Accessories The baldric Used to hlod the sword, the baldric is a belt-like accessories worn crossed on the torso. It will become an important ceremonial accessories. The baldric could be in leather or in fabrics, embroidered, with fringes, gold thread or jewels. It was used for functional purposes as well as for ceremonies. The baldric will be replaced by a belt.  How 17th century men dressed Footwear The 16th century slippers will be replaced by square ended boots, inspired by those worn by the musketeers. Noblemen adopted and exaggerated the cavalier’s outfit items, and particularly the boots. The boots’ tops were shaped in the form of a funnel and could reach up to 50 centimeters in diameter. Short boots with a square ending, heels and fastened with a ribbon will be the shoes for the 2nd half of the 17th century.  The woman’s dress will evolve slowlier than the one for men. Nevertheless, we can spot 3 main periods: How women The transition between the 16th and the 17th dressed century, The 17th century, during the The transition between 17th the 17th and the 18th century. century… A general simplification and softness can be noticed throughout the 17th century for women.  How 17th women dressed The beginning of the 17th century silhouette for women is the continuation of the previous century one. Woman’s dress composition between 1590 and 1610 : A shirt: worn as an underwear A corset Hoses: socks/stockings like items maintained with a garter A farthingale: understructure worn under the gown to give more volume. The farthingale will move from a conical shape to a square one. The conical farthingale was called ”Spanish farthingale” and the square one was called “French farthingale”. A skirt A gown:, worn on top of the shirt, with a short top featuring a very open neckline, voluminous sleeves and an ample skirt. Ball at the Court of Henri the 4th of France, attributed to Louis de Caullery, 1611  How 17th women dressed « Marie of Medici » collar Corset French farthingale Gown Skirt Portrait of Marie de Medici, wife of the French king Henri the 4th Ball at the Court of Henri the 4th of France, attributed to Louis de Caullery, 1611  How 17th women dressed Under the reign of French king Louis the 13th, the female silhouette becomes less voluminous. The waist is marked higher and the shoulders become larger. Clothes are being superposed. Voluminous sleeves Woman’s dress composition between 1610 and 1643: Shirt A shirt: worn as underwear Stomacher worn on top of the A rigid bodice worn with a stomacher on top: it ends in a point on the rigid bodice skirt. It can be embellished with a brooch. Hoses: socks/stockings like items worn with a garter A skirt: usually made from the same fabric and color than the rigid Skirt bodice (corset) and worn on top of 2 other petticoats. The top skirt was called “the modest”, the first petticoat was called “the fripone” and the 2nd petticoad was called “the secretive”. Gown A gown: worn on top of the skirt, often in black with small slit sleeves attached at the elbows. Sleeves are usually voluminous, padded with cushions and slit to show the sleeves of the shirt. Portrait of Henriette of Lorraine by Anton Van Dyck, 1634  How 17th women dressed Voluminous sleeves Stomacher worn on an rigid bodice Skirt Gown Engraving « The Nobility », Lady with a mask by Jacques Callot around 1624 Portrait of Anne d’Autriche, mother of French king, Louis the 14th  How 17th women dressed During this period, the female costume doesn’t change much, compared to the male’s one, and is sober. The changes are in the type of fabrics used: satin, silk and in the colors, usually plain colors with no prints. Woman’s dress composition between 1643 and 1675: A shirt: worn as underwear whose collar in lace follows the oval shape The shirt’s collar of the bodice. The sleeves are visible underneath the sleeves of the dress. A corset Bodice with an oval neckline Hoses: socks/stockings like items maintained with a garter A bodice: worn very tightly on the torso with an oval and open neckline showing the shoulders and the lace from the shirt’s collar. A Sleeves from the shirt brooch could be worn. Superposed skirts and gown Voluminous sleeves The mid-length sleeves remain voluminous. Top skirt Portrait of a woman by Charles Wautier 1660  How 17th women dressed The shirt’s collar Bodice with an oval neckline Sleeves from the shirt Voluminous sleeves Top skirt Portrait of a woman by Portrait of a woman by Jan Peter Lely around 1660- Mijtens around 1660 1665  How 17th women dressed The shirt’s collar Bodice with an oval neckline Sleeves of the shirt Voluminous sleeves Top skirt Louise de la Vallière, first favorite of the French king Louis the 14th  How 17th women dressed Suzanna Doublet-Huygens by Caspar Netscher around 1669 Two women at the Lake by Peter Lely around 1660  How 17th women dressed The last years of the 17th century witnessed a simplification in the dresses worn by women, simplification compensated by an increase in ornementations as embroidery, lace and bows. The layering effect is accentuated. A new type of gown is introduced: the mantua, the coat dress (robe- manteau in French) inspired by the interior dresses worn by women. This new fashion has been introduced by Mme de Montespan, second favorite of Louis the 14th, to hide her pregnancies. Woman’s dress composition after 1675: Shirt’s collar A shirt: worn as underwear whose collar in lace follows the neckline of the gown. Its sleeves are visible under the sleeves of the dress. Sleeves from the shirt A corset A rigid stomacher Engageantes Hoses: socks/stockings items maintained by a garter. Mantua/Gown with a train An under skirt in taffetas A Mantua, also called top skirt or gown, worn up on the sides to show the under skirt, with a train whose length depended on the social rank Under skirt of the woman. The neckline is now square, still showing the shirt’s collar lace. The sleeves are flat with engageantes in lace. Recueil des modes de la cour de France, 'Femme de qualité en habit D'esté’ 1687 How 17th women dressed Shirt’s collar Stomacher Sleeves from the shirt Engageantes Mantua/gown with a train Under skirt Recueil des modes de la cour de France, 'Femme de qualité en habit D'esté’ 1687 How 17th women dressed Portrait of a woman by Jan La Comtesse de Mailly 1698 van Haensbergen 1680  How 17th women dressed Portrait of Marie Stuart II by Nicolaes Françoise d’Aubigné, Marquise de Visscher I Maintenon, 2nd wife of French king Louis the 14th  How 17th women dressed Evolution of the feminine silhouette Françoise Portrait of Portrait of Suzanna d’Aubigné, Marie de Anne Doublet- Marquise de Medici, d’Autriche, Huygens by Maintenon, wife of mother of Caspar 2nd wife of French French Netscher French king, king, Henri king, Louis Louis the the 4th the 14th 14th How 17th women dressed Hair style During the 17th century, hairstyle for women was diverse. The trends from the end of the 16th century go on at the beginning of the 17th century. The hair is curled and styled in strict buns on the top of the head. Starting from 1610, softness is introduced. The hair is styled in long curls with buns on framing the face. The hair reaches the shoulders. Starting from 1643, curls are worn longer and less rigidly on the sides. In the back of the head, the hair is styled in a bun. How 17th women dressed Hair style After 1675, hair is styled high in a bun and under a coiffe which is higher and higher. This fashion is « à la Fontange » hairstyle, a fashion launched by one of the French King Louis the 14th’s mistresses, the Duchess of Fontange in the 1680s. This hairstyle consisted of a small pile of curled hairstyled in different layers and adorned with ribbons and bows just above the forehead. The remaining of the hair hanged freely in the back. A lace and embroidered headpiece was added on the top to increase the height of the hair style. Duchess of Fontange How 17th women dressed Hair style How 17th women dressed Jewelry During the 17th century, jewelry was used to emphasize the wealth and the harmony of dresses. Nevertheless, the jewelry worn was quite simple. Pearls were mostly used as drop earrings and necklaces. Brooches were also popular and worn in the center of the bodice. Materials used: Gold Silver Pearls Precious stones (the diamond was the preferred stone of Louis the 14th) Main jewelry: Earrings Brooches Pearl necklaces Dress ornementation (buttons…) How 17th women dressed Jewelry How 17th women dressed Accessories The main accessories worn were: A pair of gloves: in fine leather, perfumed with wide wrists embellished with embroidery. Gloves were worn by both men and women as a sign of elegance and good manners. An hankerchief, practice remaining from the 16th century A fan: a mandatory accessories for women who used it for functional purposes as well as for communication and seduction purposes. The fan becomes a piece of art. How 17th women dressed Footwear Shoes worn by women during the 17th century follow the fashion of men’s shoes, featuring and square ending at the beginning of the century and then a pointy ending by the end of the century. Shoes become ornemantal with embellishments as embroidery, ribbons, printed fabrics… They are made from leather, fabrics. They feature a heel. The influence The Baroque style was set at the royal court in France, where the stiffed-bodiced, heavy-skirt court dress, known as the “grand habit” was established in of Louis the Versailles. th 14 on the The fabrics of these clothes were produced in Europe, but the French silk industry dominated. fashion Influx of goods from Asia via trading organisations, made printed cottons and painted silk from India and industry China entering the European fashion market.  The influence of Louis the 14th on the fashion industry Louis XIV had an enormous impact on French fashion during his reign from 1643 till 1715. Nicknamed “the Sun King”, he set out to make both himself and his country legendary for opulent style and elegance. He collaborated with craftspeople to create and popularize luxurious textiles and fashionable clothing in France and abroad. More on Louis the 14th: BBC Versailles The Dream of a King Documentary The influence of Louis the 14th on the fashion industry  The first “fashion” magazine: Le Mercure Galant The Founded in 1672 by Jean Donneau development de Visé. This magazine targeted « people of of the quality » and delt with the life at the Cour of Versailles. Events fashion Rumors Fashions industry Fashion was told as a series of information sent to a woman living in the province and willing to know the last trends at Versailles. It was about the official fashion The development of the fashion industry The first “fashion” magazine: Le Mercure Galant The development of the fashion industry The development of the fashion industry The first “fashion” magazine: Le Mercure Galant The development of the fashion industry  The organization of the professions The The main profession in the fashion industry development was the tailor. It was a profession for men and tailors only executed the orders they received. They couldn’t influence on the of the trends. In 1655, dress tailors, dress merchands and shoemakers unified into a single fashion corporation. Tailors only create menswear. industry Womenswear is created by seamstresses, a profession for women. Seamstresses obtained the right to create their own corporation in 1667.  The organization of the creation process The The way to create dresses is more and more standardised thanks to the development publication of a book Le Tailleur Sincère from Benoît in 1671. it is a technical book dedicated to the cut, pattern making and of the sewing of the different pieces of a dress. A new profession appeared, the ancestors fashion of the fashion illustrators, who will create engraving and fashion illustrations representing the way people dressed at the Court of Versailles. industry The development of the fashion industry The organization of the creation process  Vivienne Westwood – Collection Automne-Hiver 2013 17 th reinterpreted …  The 17th in a nutshell France, under the reign of Louis the 14th and the Court of Versailles, is imposing itself in the fashion industry which will be used as a political soft power. The Court of the Sun King is a show society and the dress contributes to the representation and the hierarchy of the social classes. Fashion becomes codified with the development of the Court costume, the publication of the first fashion magazine, Le Mercure Galant, aiming at promoting the official fashion. The fashion industry becomes more and more organised with the development of manufactures and the optimisation of production technics. Silk and lace are fully produced in France, not imported anymore, but exported as a way to reinforce the influence of the country. The man’s costume will evolve faster than the one for women. Three main periods can be identified: - 1590-1610 (Henri the 4th of France) - 1610-1643 (Louis the 13th of France) - 1645-1675 (Louis the 14th of France, 1st part) - End of the 17th century (Louis the 14th of France, 2nd part) Question What are the differences between the Renaissance and the 17th century? What are the similarities between the Renaissance time! and the 17th century? How would you describe the way of dressing during the 17th century? Takeaways WHAT DID YOU LEARN TODAY?  Study the presentation « Fashion History during the 17th century » (current presentation). Quiz at the beginning of next class! Look for modern days designers inspired by the 17th century: For next Note the names Which elements did they take from the 17th century ? class! How did they interprete them with modern influences? Watch a movie whose story takes place during the 17th century: Look at how the costume designers took inspiration from the period and interpretated it with modern touches.