Crepe Weaves PDF

# Crepe Fabrics - Roughness and irregularity are the basic character of crepe fabrics. - Crepe fabrics produce an irregular and broken surface effect, avoiding stripes, lines, or geometrical structures. - Crepe fabrics are mostly produced by the combination of two or more weave designs; sateen weav...

# Crepe Fabrics - Roughness and irregularity are the basic character of crepe fabrics. - Crepe fabrics produce an irregular and broken surface effect, avoiding stripes, lines, or geometrical structures. - Crepe fabrics are mostly produced by the combination of two or more weave designs; sateen weaves are widely used as the basis for creating a crepe effect. - Crepe fabrics are used as bandages in the medical field. They are also used to cover the surface of emery rollers in silk weaving. Fine crepe fabrics are also used for dressing. ## Methods of Producing Crepe Fabrics Crepe effect in a fabric can be achieved using the following three methods: 1. **By Using Crepe Yarns** - Many types of hard and soft yarns are available for weaving. The degree of hardness in the yarn depends on the twist multiplier. - For regular weaving yarns, the twist multiplier ranges from 2.5 to 4.5. But hard twisted yarns known as crepe yarns have a twist multiplier of 4.5 to 9.5. - Crepe yarns are hard and have the ability to snarl. So when used in weaving, because of overtwisting and snarling, they give a rough and irregular appearance to the fabric. 2. **By Applying Special Finishes** - A crepe effect on regular woven fabrics can be obtained by using special mechanical or chemical finishes. - For example, a cotton-polyester blended fabric is subjected to chemical and mechanical shrinkage to create a crinkled and rough effect. - Similarly, silk fabrics are treated with dilute organic acids, like hydrochloric acid, to create a crushed and abraded effect. - An embossed crepe effect in the fabric is produced by passing the fabric through a pair of engraved rough cylinders under high pressure. 3. **By Using Special Woven Structures** - In this method, a special weave design is generated to give a rough and irregular appearance to the fabric. - There are many methods of producing crepe weaves, but the most commonly used are given below. - **By Reversing** - An irregular motif is taken as a base to construct a crepe effect. - The selected base motif is then reversed to create a crepe effect. - Twice the number of ends and picks as that of the motif is required to create this type of crepe weave. - This method is used to create a neat crepe effect. **Example 1** Construct a crepe weave effect by reversing the following motif: - Image of a grid with a red pattern The motif is copied in one of the portions. - Image with the same grid but the red pattern is flipped. The reverse filling of this motif is copied in the upper portion as shown above. - Image with the same grid but the reverse red pattern is flipped again. The last reversed section is once again reversed in the upper left-hand section - Image with the same grid with the red pattern flipped again. The last reversed section is finally reversed in the lower left hand section. - Image with the same grid and the pattern is now flipped one final time. **Example 2** Construct a crepe weave effect by reversing the following motif. - Image of a checkered grid Solution - Image of a grid with a different checkered pattern **Example 3** Construct a crepe weave effect by reversing the following motif. - Image of a checkered pattern Solution - Image of a grid with another different checkered pattern **Example 4** Construct a crepe weave effect by reversing the following motif. - Image of a grid with a checkered pattern Solution - Image of a grid with a different checkered pattern - **By Combination of Weaves** - In this method, two or more weaves are combined within the same design to produce irregularity. - At least one weave should be irregular. It would produce a better crepe effect if both weaves are irregular. - Sateen weaves (especially irregular sateens) are very useful in creating greater irregularity. **Example 1** Construct a crepe weave effect combining 8-thread regular sateen and plain weave. Solution - The 8-thread sateen completes on 8 x 8 threads while plain weave completes on 2 x 2 threads. - Ends = LCM of ends of designs x No. of Designs = 8 x 2 = 16 - Picks = LCM of picks of designs = 8 - Image of a grid marked 16 x 8 Threads with 8-thread sateen and plain weave Filling of 8-thread sateen is done on alternate ends marked as (1). - Image showing the 8-thread sateen Filling of plain weave is done on alternate ends marked as (2). - Image showing the plain weave **Example 2** Construct a crepe weave effect combining 8-thread irregular sateen and 3/1 twill. - The 8-thread sateen completes on 8 x 8 threads while 3/1 twill completes on 4 x 4 threads. - Ends = LCM of ends of designs x No. of Designs = 8 x 2 = 16 - Picks = LCM of picks of designs = 8 - Image of a grid marked 16 x 8 Threads. - Image of the 8-thread irregular sateen - Image of the 3/1 twill **Example 3** Construct a crepe weave effect combining 10-thread irregular satin and plain weave. - The 10-thread sateen completes on 10 x 10 threads and plain weave completes on 2 x 2 threads. - Ends = LCM of ends of designs x No. of Designs = 10 x 2 = 20 - Picks = LCM of picks of designs = 10 - Image of a grid marked 20 x 10 Threads - Image of the 10-thread irregular sateen. - Image of the plain weave. **Example 4** Produce a crepe design by combining 6 threads satin with 6 threads sateen - Both designs complete on 6 x 6 threads - Ends = LCM of the ends of designs x No. of Designs = 6 x 2 = 12 - Picks = LCM of picks of designs = 6 - Image of a grid marked 12 x 6 Threads - Image of the 6-thread satin. - Image of the 6-thread sateen. **Example 5** Produce a crepe design by combining 12 threads irregular sateen and 6 threads standard sateen. - 12 Threads Sateen completes on 12 x 12 threads and 6-thread sateen completes on 6 x 6 threads. - Ends = LCM of the ends of designs x No. of Designs = 12 x 2 = 24 - Picks = LCM of the picks of designs = 12 - Image of a grid marked 24 x 12 Threads. - Image of the 12-thread irregular sateen. - Image of the 6-thread standard sateen. **Example 6** Produce crepe by combining 7 threads weft extended sateen with an extension factor of 2, and 14 threads regular sateen. - The 7 Threads extended sateen completes on 14 x 7 threads while the 14-thread regular sateen completes on 14 x 14 threads. - Ends = LCM of the ends of designs x No. of Designs = 14 x 2 = 28 - Picks = LCM of the picks of designs = 14. - Image marked 28 x 14 Threads. - Image of the 7-thread weft extended sateen. - Image of the 14-thread sateen. - **By Superimposition of Weaves** - In this method, the crepe weaves are constructed by placing one weave on top of the other. - Usually, sateen and its derivatives are superimposed; however, different weaves can also be used. - The number of threads required to create crepe by this method are found out as follows: - Ends = LCM of the the ends of both weaves. - Picks = LCM of Picks of both weaves. **Example 1** Construct a crepe weave by superimposing 8-thread regular and 4-thread standard sateens. Solution - The number of threads required are: - Ends = LCM of the ends of both weaves = 8 (LCM of 8 & 4). - Picks = LCM of the picks of both weaves = 8 (LCM of 8 & 4). Image of a grid marked 8 x 8 Threads. First of all, 8-thread regular sateen with a move number 3 is filled. - Image of the 8 x 8 grid with 8-thread regular sateen. Then, 4-thread standard sateen is filled on top of it. - Image of the 8 x 8 grid with 4-thread standard sateen superimposed on it. **Example 2** Construct a crepe weave by superimposing 4 and 6 threads standard sateens Solution - The number of threads required are: - Ends = LCM of ends of both weaves = 12 (LCM of 4 & 6). - Picks = LCM of picks of both weaves = 12 (LCM of 4 & 6). - Image of a grid marked 12 x 12 threads. - Image of 4-thread standard sateen. - Image of 6-thread standard sateen. **Example 3** Construct a crepe weave by superimposing 10 and 5 threads irregular sateens. Solution - The number of threads required are: - Ends = LCM of the ends of both weaves = 10 (LCM of 10 & 5). - Picks = LCM of the picks of both weaves = 10 (LCM of 10 & 5). - Image of a grid marked 10 x 10 threads. - Image of 10-thread irregular sateen. - Image of 5-thread irregular sateen. **Example 4** Construct a crepe weave by superimposing 6-thread standard extended sateen with a weft extension of 2, and 12 threads irregular sateen. Solution - The number of threads required are: - Ends = LCM of the ends of both weaves = 12 (LCM of 12 & 12). - Picks = LCM of the picks of both weaves = 12 (LCM of 6 & 12). - Image of a grid marked 12 x 12 threads. - Image of 12-thread irregular sateen. - Image of 6-thread standard weft extended sateen. **Example 5** Construct a crepe weave by superimposing 10-thread regular sateen with move number 7, and 10-thread irregular sateen. Solution - The number of threads required are: - Ends = LCM of the ends of both weaves = 10 (LCM of 10 & 10). - Picks = LCM of the picks of both weaves = 10 (LCM of 10 & 10). - Image of the 10-thread regular sateen with a move number 7. - Image of the 10-thread irregular sateen.