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MATERIAL AND MANUFACTURING 2 Natural Materials I | Fibers Instructors : Akela Alsadiq, Zati Hazera, Noran Kattan, Arwa FIBBERS DRESSED IN MATTER Textiles have always been at the heart of economic, social, aesthetic and technical issues, even hi-tech ones! Economic, as in the Silk Road or contemporar...

MATERIAL AND MANUFACTURING 2 Natural Materials I | Fibers Instructors : Akela Alsadiq, Zati Hazera, Noran Kattan, Arwa FIBBERS DRESSED IN MATTER Textiles have always been at the heart of economic, social, aesthetic and technical issues, even hi-tech ones! Economic, as in the Silk Road or contemporary China; social, as in the inter-bound nature of slavery and cotton, or the first fights against mechanization seen at the advent of the industrial revolution. Aesthetic, as shown by the ripples of fashion trends, felt throughout our societies, especially when you consider how often the learning and development of good or bad taste, of shape, color and standards, is gained via the intermediary of textile and how power over material, which men have always exercised, seems so much more vague when it comes textiles: even though they have maintained control of this industry, the female presence remains decisively large. This seemingly flimsy material therefore fulfils two essential roles: it is both a vehicle for expression and a functional material. Its main function is that of protection; an area in which spectacular progress is predicted. Notably, under the pseudonym 'technical textiles, we see the proliferation of textiles which are conductive, breathable yet waterproof, deodorizing, scented, flame-retardant, heat-storing, therapeutic, information-storing,etc. Such a range of performance shows us just how much textiles have risen to the call for them to extend their uses beyond the traditionally assigned duty of mere protection. Textiles act as an interface between humans and the world around us. The creative potential of textiles borders on the infinite and is wholly in tune with developments in information technology: after all, isn't weaving just a succession of 1s and 0s? In fact it was perhaps the first formal binary expression (as the 19'' century mechanized looms and punched cards can bear witness) of a pixelated material TECHNIC AL SPECIFIC ATIONS Fibers are a class of hair-like materials that are continuous "filaments” or are in discrete elongated pieces, similar to pieces of thread. They can be used as a component of composite materials. They can also be matted into sheets to make products such as paper or felt. Fibers are of two types: natural fiber, which consists of animal and plant fibers, and man-made fiber, which consists of synthetic fibers and regenerated fibers. The classification ‘Textiles' refers more to the processes used than the resultant material. In fact, numerous materials can be made into textiles (plastics, metals); the raw material of this industry is fiber, transformed into yarn. Made up of long continuous fibers or short discontinuous fibers, then woven, knitted or assembled and finally, finished, fabrics may vary in terms of composition (cotton, silk, glass, nylon, etc.) and in terms of properties (flexibility, strengths, insulating capacity, TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Plant based fibers / Abacá, Bagasse, Bamboo, Coir, Cotton, Fique, Flax (Linen), Jute, Kapok, Kenaf, Piña, Pine, Raffia, Ramie, Sisal, Wood TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Plant based fibers / Abacá Abacá is a vegetable leaf fiber. The abaca fiber is extracted from the leaf stalks of the plant. Abaca is one of natural fiber that has high mechanical properties Usage: ❑ tea bags ❑ filter paper ❑ Diapers ❑ Rugs ❑ Coasters TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Plant based fibers /Bagasse , It have unique advantages like: sustainability, environment friendliness, low cost, easy availability, low density Bagasse fiber, an agricultural waste of sugarcane crop is one of the most abundantly available natural fiber across the globe TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Plant based fibers /Bamboo sustainable and eco-friendly, Bamboo fiber offers natural UV protection. The fabric blocks up to 98% of harmful UV rays TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Plant based fibers /Coir , Outer shell of the coconut Features: lightweight, brittle, strong, and elastic Use: rugs Ropes Brushes Upholstery stuffing Doormats TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Plant based fibers /Cotton , Characteristics of Cotton Fibers and Products Comfortable to wear Natural, cellulosic fiber Made from the cotton boll Absorbs water and “breathes” Slow to dry Resists static electricity build-up Wrinkles easily Can withstand heat, detergents, and bleach About 20% stronger when wet than dry Will shrink unless treated TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Plant based fibers /Fique , Use: Packing Ropes Handcrafts Bags TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Plant based fibers // Flax ([Linen) , flax is one of the oldest textile fibers Linen is valued for its strength, lustre, durability, and moisture absorbency TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Plant based fibers // Jute , Jute is one of the cheapest natural fibers and is second only to cotton in amount produced 1.Jute fiber is 100% bio-degradable and recyclable and thus environmentally friendly. 1.Jute is a natural fiber with golden and silky shine and hence called The Golden Fiber. 1.Jute is the cheapest vegetable fiber procured from the bast or skin of the plant’s stem. Jute is known as the “golden fiber” TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Plant based fibers // Kapok , Kapoks do not bloom every year, and some may go 5–10 years without flowering. Use: Fill for pillows, quilts, and other bedding Upholstery Soft toys Thermal and acoustic insulation Life jackets due to the low density and low wetting TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Plant based fibers // Kenaf , Some end uses of kenaf fiber are Twine, Sackcloth, Sacking, Cordage, Hessian, Upholster TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Plant based fibers // Piña , Piña fiber is derived from the leaves of a pineapple plant that gives its natural ivory color. TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Plant based fibers // Pine , TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Plant based fibers // Raffia , Uses: Clothing & Textiles: Baskets: Rope: Decor: Gift Wrap/Boxes TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Plant based fibers // Ramie , Ramie (pronounced Ray-me) is one of the oldest vegetables fiber Use: Canvas Straw hats Industrial sewing thread Packing materials Fishing nets TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Animal Basied fibers / Alpaca, Angora, Byssus, Camel hair, Cashmere, Chiengora, Guanaco, Human hair, Mohair, Qiviut, Silk, Sinew, Spider silk, Wool TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Animal Based fibers / Alpaca TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Animal Based fibers / Angora TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Animal Based fibers / Byssus TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Animal Based fibers / Camel hair TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Animal Based fibers / Cashmere TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Animal Based fibers / Chiengora TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Animal Based fibers / Guanaco TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Animal Based fibers / Human hair TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Animal Based fibers / Mohair TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Animal Based fibers / Qiviut TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Animal Based fibers / Silk TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Animal Based fibers / Spider silk TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Natural Fibers Animal Based fibers / Wool TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Mineral Fibers Asbestos, glass, Carbon, basalt TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Mineral Fibers Asbestos Asbestos is generally made up of fiber bundles that easily separate into long, thin fibers. TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Mineral Fibers Glass fibers Fiberglass is a lightweight, extremely strong, and robust material TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Mineral Fibers Carbon fibers Carbon fiber is by heating and stretching a high carbon polymer can be used in :Bike frames, Hockey sticks, Tennis rackets Fishing rods, Bows TYPES AND CLASSIFIC ATIONS Mineral Fibers basalt MANUFACTURING PROCESSES It May Be Produced By A Number Of Techniques, The Most Common Of Which Are Weaving, Knitting, Bonding, Felting Or Tufting. Conventional Fabrics (Woven, Knitted) Are Produced In Such A Way That The Fibers Are First Converted Into Yarn And Subsequently This Yarn Is Converted Into Fabric. ANY VOLUNTEER ? 6 Students MANUFACTURING PROCESSES But first how can we create the yarns ? There are two ways of producing yarn: 1. Spinning: This consists of twisting together short, discontinuous fibers. These are often natural fibers (cotton, flax, wool) and sometimes cut manmade fibers. After cleaning (to remove impurities), the loosely bundled fibers are aligned by means of carding, then combined, in parallel, to form a carded sliver (a loose rope of fires). This sliver then undergoes drawing and twisting, which strengthens fiber cohesion. This is then referred to as a roving, which is drawn and twisted again, to become yarn MANUFACTURING PROCESSES But first how can we create the yarns ? 2. Reeling: This consists of pulling out long, continuous fibers. Reeling is a process performed on man-made fibers. Silk - a natural fiber - is the product of a natural biological reeling process. Silk fibers are long and continuous by nature Reeling man-made fibers is a form of extrusion. The material (polymers) is fed through a spinneret under pressure. The shape of the spinneret is very important as it determines the profile and the diameter of the filament. The shape of the filament determines its characteristics: luster (whether it is matt or shiny, luminous, or reflective, etc.), properties of adhesion or absorption, texture, flexibility and how fine it is (micro fibers, for example, are only a few microns in diameter and, amongst other things, are very soft, very fluid and very light). While the shape of man-made fibers can be manipulated during this process, making a number of variations and applications possible, natural fibers, on the other hand, have pre-defined shapes. At the end of the extrusion process, the filament is so lidified by hot or cold air or by dipping it into a reactive liquid. A number of filaments can then be assembled and drawn to make up a multi-stranded yarn. Single filament yarn is also possible. MANUFACTURING PROCESSES But first how can we create the yarns ? 2. Reeling: MANUFACTURING PROCESSES Waving technique. MANUFACTURING PROCESSES Waving technique. MANUFACTURING PROCESSES Knitting technique. MANUFACTURING PROCESSES Knitting technique. Knitted fabrics are made up of loops of yarn, linked together to make stitches. While the threads and yarns in woven fabrics cross in straight lines, knitting interlinks yarns in a curvilinear fashion. The knitting industry mostly uses computer-controlled machinery nowadays. There are two main types of knitted fabric: Weft-knits: The stitches are made of one continuous yarn, making the loops of each row. This type of knitting gives the fabric stretch in both directions. However, it only takes one break in the yarn for the whole thing to unravel. Jersey knit, rib knit, and Jacquard knit are all weft knits. As are all those scarves knitted by the fire with knitting needles and balls of wool. Warp-knits: This technique uses multiple yarns and needles. In each row (or 'course'), stitches are made simultaneously using separate yarns. For the next course, the stitches in the same column (or 'wale*) will be made by another needle, using another yarn, thus linking the entire piece of fabric together. Warp-knits are less stretchy than weft-knits, but are more solid and less likely to 'run' WHEN DO WE USE EACH ? MANUFACTURING PROCESSES Bonding technique. MANUFACTURING PROCESSES Bonding technique. Non-woven textiles, Fiber cohesion is obtained through mechanical procedures (applying pressure), physical procedures (heating), or chemical procedures (gluing). A combination of the above may also be used. The most wellknown non-woven fabric is felt. Felts are made of wool fibers, assembled by mechanical movement, heat and humidity. Also known as 'bonded-fiber fabrics’ these kinds of textiles are light and unlikely to crease they can be found in furniture and décor (wall coverings, for example), hygiene and cleaning, automotive (insulation, filtration), agriculture and geotextiles (seed protection, soil stabilization, drainage, etc.), medicine (dressings, masks, protective clothing), etc. They are very well suited to disposable items. Most non-woven Fabrics are made of man-made fibers (polyester, nylon, viscose, etc.) but non-woven cotton and wool is also possible (felt). MANUFACTURING PROCESSES Tufting Technique. MANUFACTURING PROCESSES Tufting Technique. Knitted fabrics are made up of loops of yarn, linked together to make stitches. While the threads and yarns in woven fabrics cross in straight lines, knitting interlinks yarns in a curvilinear fashion. The knitting industry mostly uses computer-controlled machinery nowadays. There are two main types of knitted fabric: Weft-knits: The stitches are made of one continuous yarn, making the loops of each row. This type of knitting gives the fabric stretch in both directions. However, it only takes one break in the yarn for the whole thing to unravel. Jersey knit, rib knit and Jacquard knit are all weft knits. As are all those scarves knitted by the fire with knitting needles and balls of wool. Warp-knits: This technique uses multiple yarns and needles. In each row (or 'course'), stitches are made simultaneously using separate yarns. For the next course, the stitches in the same column (or 'wale*) will be made by another needle, using another yarn, thus linking the entire piece of fabric together. Warp-knits are less stretchy than weft-knits, but are more solid and less likely to 'run'.