Cutting Room Overview PDF

Cutting Room Overview Cutting is a process of separating parts from the fabric as replicas of the pattern pieces in the marker for assembly operations. Garment production starts with the cutting process. In this process, fabric is being cut into components (shapes or patterns of different garment p...

Cutting Room Overview Cutting is a process of separating parts from the fabric as replicas of the pattern pieces in the marker for assembly operations. Garment production starts with the cutting process. In this process, fabric is being cut into components (shapes or patterns of different garment parts, i.e. front, back, sleeve, collar shapes etc.). In mass production multiple layers of fabrics are laid on a table and large number of garments is being cut at a time. The laid fabric stack is called as lay. The cutting process includes number of sub-processes and flow of the processes is as following. Each process is briefly explained in the following. / **1. Pattern / Marker:** According to the design and fit, patterns of different garment parts are made on the pattern paper and cut into pattern pieces. For manual marker these pattern pieces are used for marker making. On the other hand in CAD system patterns are made in computer. Later using a plotter markers are made on sheet. In the second case cutting department receive ready marker.\ \ **2. Cut ratio receiving:** Prior to cutting, cutting department get a job sheet from planning department or merchandiser or production manager that includes total quantity of garment pieces to be cut, sizes ratio of the garments and colour-wise size break up. According to the size and colour ratio cutting team prepare one marker or multiple markers. Marker length and number of lay to be cut are planned in this stage.\ \ **3. Fabric receiving:** Fabric requirement for an order is calculated according to the average consumption of the fabric from the marker. In case of multiple colour order, colour wise requirement is made. Fabric department issue fabric to cutting against the fabric requirement (generally requisition slip is used).\ \ **4. Fabric relaxation:** This process is optional. Specially used for knits fabric. During rolling of fabric it get stretched. So it is essential to bring the fabric on stable form otherwise garment would shrink after making. To relax the fabric roll or thān is opened and spread and kept for about 24 hours.\ \ **5. Spreading (Fabric Layering):** In this stage fabric sheet is layered one above another maintaining pre-defined maker length and correct ply tension. Fabric is layered up to a certain height to avoid cutting quality problem. Spreading is done by manual layering or automatic layering machine can be used. During layering of the fabric, fabric edge is aligned at one side.\ \ **6. Marker Making:** After layering of a lay, pre made paper patterns (or ready markers made by plotter) are placed on the top layer of the lay. In manual marker making, marking is done around each pattern shape using marking chalk. This process is called as marker making. In a marker all garment components are placed.\ \ **7. Cutting:** Lay is cut following the marked lines on the top of the lay. Cutting is done using straight knife or other cutting means. In cutting process garment component are separated. On the basis of pattern shape different cutting method/ machine are selected. \ \ **8. Numbering:** Separated garment components are numbered to ensure that in stitching all components from same layer are stitched together. It is important to avoid shade variation in a garment. Between the cutting and sewing processes cut components may be passed through other processes like printing and embroidery. There is maximum chance of mixing of the components. If there is layer number in each component then at the time of stitching only correct components will be stitched together.\ \ **9. Sorting and ticketing:** According to production system cut components are sorted. In sorting all component of one garment placed together. Size wise sorting and in case multiple colors are cut in a single lay, color wise sorting will be required. Ticketing is the process of marking the cut components for shade matching precision and sequence identification. Ticket contains the size, bundle number and piece number and serves as important means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to end.\ \ **10. Bundling:** As per the production line requirement a certain number of pieces with all component are tied together. This process is known as bundling. Each bundle is marked with bundle number, style name, size number and quantity of pieces in that bundle. At this stage cutting are ready to send to production line for stitching. **11. Embroidery and printing:** The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for embroidery or printing as sated in the production package. Apparel Manufacturing - An Overview **Overview:** Apparel production, also known as garment production is a process where fabric is being converted into garments.  The term apparel production is basically used when garments are manufactured in a factory. Traditionally apparel manufacturing factories has been divided into two sectors as domestic and export. Based on present apparel industry, garment manufacturing processes are categorized as : - Pre-Production Processes - Pre-production process includes sampling, sourcing of raw materials, Approvals, PP meeting etc. - Production processes - Production processes are cutting, sewing etc. - Post production processes - thread trimming, pressing, checking, folding and packing, shipment inspection etc. **Sampling:** Sampling is a process where factory develop garment [samples](http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/03/sampling-stages-in-apparel.html) according to buyer\'s specified design. This is also known as product development stage. Samples are required at various stages to get approval from buyer on a particular design. As per the development stages samples are named as Proto sample, Fit sample, Size set sample, Sales man sample, pre production sample, Top of production (TOP) sample and shipment sample. - **Proto Sample: **These samples are proto type of new design created by designers. This is the first sample in product development stage. Proto sample is made to communicate the design of a style or a line or to present garment structure. In proto samples fit and fabric detailing is not been considered. - ** FIT Sample:** Once proto sample is approved, FIT is being made with actual measurement. Modification on the pattern is done to get desired fit of the garment. FIT is one of the most important factor to be considered during sample development. FIT sample is being tested on live model or Dress form for to verify garment fit and fall. - **Salesman Sample:** Salesman samples are made to put on display in the retail showroom. Salesman sample (SMS) are displayed for assessing customer\'s feedback and according to customers response buyers forecast demand of an particular style. Sales samples are made with actual fabric and trims and accessories. Buyer pays for salesman samples to the developer. - **Size set Sample:** The purpose of the size set is to check fit of the garment in different sizes. In this stage factory develops samples in multiple sizes. Generally, buyers ask size set sample in jump sizes, like S, L, XXL. Buyer check size set sample and give feedback to factory if anything need to be corrected.   - ** Pre-production Sample:** All the above samples are made in sampling department. Buyer wants pre-production sample (PP sample) to be made in actual production line, so that operators know what are they going to make. This sample is made with actual fabric, trims and accessories and made by sewing line tailors.  PP sample must be approved by buyer or buying house merchants (technical persons) prior to proceeding actual production.     **Costing:** A business is all about making profit. So correct costing of a product before order finalization is very important. [Costing of garment](http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/02/garment-cm-cost-estimation-using-sam-or.html) is the cumulative cost of raw materials, direct labors and direct and indirect overheads. After developing sample or directly receiving buyer\'s sample factory needs to send FOB (freight on board) price of the garment. To decide FOB of a garment factory makes [cost sheet](http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/11/garment-costing-sheet.html) including raw material cost, total of direct labour costs of each processes, factory overhead. An FOB is the sum of garment cost, factory margin and taxes. **Production Planning:** After receiving the order factory plans for raw material requirement for the order. Raw materials like fabrics, sewing threads, packing materials, hang tags and other accessories. Factory plans timelines like when to start cutting, when to submit pre-production sample, when to finish sewing and finishing, final inspection date and shipment date. In production planning stage job responsibility for different processes is defined. **Cutting:** In this stage fabrics are layered on a table layer by layer up to a certain height. Then by means of a cutting machine fabric are cut into garment shapes or pattern and separated from the layer. Fabric layering is possible both manual spreading and automated spreading. Cut parts are then numbered and bundled and send to sewing room. For details about cutting process see [cutting room overview](http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/01/cutting-room-overview.html). The quality of end product (garment) is very much depends on the good cutting quality. Secondly, [fabric](http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/02/how-to-determine-fabric-utilization-in.html) the main raw material of the garment represents about 70% of total garment cost. That is why cutting is an important process like others where control the fabric saving and garment quality.** **\ **\ ** **Sewing or Stitching:** Garment panels are stitched together in sewing room by means of sewing machines. In sewing 2D fabric patterns are converted in 3D forms. An operator run the machine and using sewing threads garment parts are joined together.  Various types of [sewing machine](http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/07/machineries-used-for-garment-sewing-in.html) are available for sewing. Machines are selected according to the seam and stitch requirement. In industry traditionally sewing machines are laid in a raw. Cut parts are feed at the start of the line, passed through the line and at the end of the line a complete garment come out. Each machine is run by individual operators and an operator sews only one or two operations of the garment. A line consist of sewing operators, helper to feed them with cut parts, thread and other trims, quality checker and one fully or partially devoted supervisor. **Thread trimming:** After stitching, all hanging thread are cut by means of hand trimmer. Auto thread trimming machines are also available to perform this task.  All loose threads inside a garment are removed as well. Garments without any loose thread and long tail are basic quality requirement. **Washing:** This process is performed when buyer want washing or special finishes to the garments. For light color garment washing is carried out to remove dirt and stains though buyer does needed washed garment for orders. **Finishing:** Generally this process includes checking of garment, measurement checking, ironing, and spotting. After sewing of the garments, all pieces are checked by quality checker to ensure that garments are being made as per buyer quality standard. Checking normally is done for visuals appearance and measurements. Spotting is required to remove stain in the pieces. Various chemicals (solvents) are used to remove various kinds of oil stain, marks and hard stain.  Each garment then ironed to remove creases by means of press.  **Packing and folding:** Each pressed garment is then folded with tissue or card board. Folding varies product to product and also buyer to buyer. Hang tags, special tag and prices stickers are attached with plastic Kimble or threads. Folded and tagged garment are then packed into poly bag. During packing garments are randomly checked by internal quality controllers to ensure that only quality goods are being packed. **Other Processes:** In current fashion trend very few garments are made without value added processes, like [printing](http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/07/different-types-of-textile-printing.html), garment dyeing, special washing, embroidery, adda work (hand embroidery with lot of bead work) **Final Inspection and dispatch:** Once garments are packed (also known as shipment), before dispatching quality inspection of the garments is carried by buyer [quality assurance](http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/08/quality-controllers-qc-job-profile-in.html) (QA) department. Many times a third party quality auditor is hired for this final inspection job. If the packed goods meet the buyer's quality standards, shipment is accepted by buyer. Factory then dispatches goods to the buyer.