Waves and Ocean Currents

Study Notes

Waves are the up and down movement of water on the surface.
Waves carry energy, not the water itself.
As waves approach the shore and enter shallow water, the bottom of the wave slows down, causing the top of the wave to get ahead and eventually break.
Wind pushing on the surface of the water creates surface waves.
Waves constantly affect the shoreline, even gentle waves can erode rock and transport sand.
Powerful winds, like hurricanes, can create large waves that cause storm surges.
Wave energy can be converted into electricity, providing a consistent source of power.

Ocean currents are the steady flow of water in a specific direction.
Factors contributing to ocean currents:
- Steady Winds
- Temperature
- Water Salinity
- Shape of the ocean floor and shoreline
The Gulf Stream is a warm Atlantic Ocean current that flows north along the eastern coast of North America, contributing to warmer weather in Europe.
Rip currents are water flowing away from the shore against incoming waves.

El Niño occurs when the water in the South Pacific becomes unusually warm.
It disrupts normal weather patterns and can cause extreme weather events like droughts and floods worldwide.

Tides are the cyclical rise and fall of ocean water levels.
Tides are caused by the gravitational pull of the sun and moon on Earth's oceans.
The moon's gravity pulls on Earth, creating two bulges in the oceans, resulting in high tides.
Low tides occur between the bulges.

Spring tides occur when the sun, Earth, and moon align in a straight line, creating the highest high tides and the lowest low tides.
Neap tides occur when these three celestial bodies form an L-shape, resulting in the smallest difference between high and low tides.

Shoreline is the land at the edge of the ocean.
Waves and ocean currents carry sand to and from the shore, constantly reshaping the coastline.
Strong winds can accelerate erosion, and a significant storm can erode a beach in a single day.
Beach restoration involves replacing and stabilizing sand and building structures to protect the shoreline.
Jetties are rock structures that protect beaches and prevent sand from accumulating and blocking waterways.