Waves, Ocean Currents, and El Nino

Study Notes

Waves

Waves are the up and down movement of surface water.
Waves carry energy, not water forward.
Waves slow down as they approach shore where the water is shallow.
The top of the wave gets ahead of the bottom, causing it to break.
Waves are caused by wind pushing on the surface of the water.
Waves erode rock and transport sand.
Hurricane winds cause large waves that can lead to storm surges.
Wave motion can be converted into electrical energy.

Ocean Currents

Ocean currents are steady flows of water in a regular pattern.
Steady winds, temperature, water salinity, and the shape of the ocean floor and shoreline drive ocean currents.
The Gulf Stream is a warm Atlantic Ocean current that runs north along the eastern coast of North America.
The Gulf Stream makes the weather in Europe warmer than other places at similar latitudes.
A rip current is a flow of water moving away from the shore against incoming waves.

El Nino

El Nino is a climate pattern in which water in the South Pacific gets unusually warm.
El Nino disrupts normal weather patterns, causing extreme weather like droughts and floods.

Tides

Tides are the cyclical rise and fall of ocean water levels.
Tides are caused by the gravitational pull of the sun and moon on the Earth's oceans.
The moon's gravity creates two bulges in Earth's oceans, leading to high tides.
The areas between the bulges experience low tides.
Spring tides occur when the sun, Earth, and moon are aligned, resulting in the highest high tides and lowest low tides.
Neap tides occur when the sun, Earth, and moon are at a 90-degree angle, resulting in the smallest difference between high and low tides.

Changing Shorelines

Shores are the land at the edge of the ocean.
Waves and ocean currents carry sand to and from the shore.
Wind causes rocks and cliffs to weather.
Storms can erode beaches quickly.
Beach restoration involves replacing and stabilizing sand, as well as building structures like jetties.
Jetties are structures made of rock that prevent currents from moving sand, preserving beaches and keeping waterways open for boats.

Description

Test your knowledge on waves, ocean currents, and the El Nino phenomenon. This quiz covers how waves form, the mechanisms behind ocean currents like the Gulf Stream, and the impact of El Nino on global weather. Perfect for students studying marine science or environmental science!