Vikram Seth's Journey to Kathmandu

Vikram Seth's Journey to Kathmandu

• Vikram Seth, author of 'Heaven Lake', traveled from China to India via Tibet and Nepal.
• He arrived in Kathmandu, checked into a hotel, and rested.
• Seth visited the Pashupatinath temple with Mr. Shah's son and nephew.
• Pashupatinath temple is a Hindu temple, allowing entry only to Hindus.
• The temple was crowded and noisy, with devotees, tourists, and various animals.
• Seth and others offered flowers to priests ("Panditji, nika chhada diya").
• Monkeys fought for a prominent spot in the temple and even chased each other near the Shivalinga and the Bagmati River.
• The riverfront scene contrasted the temple's sanctity. Dead bodies were being cremated, washerwomen washed clothes, and children bathed in the river.
• Priests threw old flowers and leaves into the river.
• A goddess statue, half-immersed and half-emerged, linked to the Kali Yuga end.
• Kali Yuga is one of Hinduism's four Yugas (ages).
• Seth witnessed respect for a Nepali princess, with people lowering their heads.
• People in saffron clothes weren't allowed entry; they weren't Hindu.
• The juxtaposition of religious beliefs and practices was a key observation.

The Buddhist Holy Site of Boudhanath Stupa

• Seth visited Boudhanath Stupa, a Buddhist site.
• The atmosphere was calm and quiet, differing from the Pashupatinath temple's noise.
• The Stupa was surrounded by shops, mostly operated by Tibetan immigrants.
• These shops sold Tibetan goods like clothes and silver jewelry.

Experiencing the Culture

• Kathmandu's vibrant culture impressed Seth.
• Temples dedicated to various Gods and Goddesses adorned with flowers.
• The city had vendors selling fruit, flutes, postcards, and other items.
• Shops sold old films, chocolates, copper vessels, and traditional Nepalese artifacts.
• Seth noted the sounds of Kathmandu: car horns, cycle bells, and motorbikes.
• Merchants called out their prices loudly, like "₹1 mein do kurte."
• Seth tried local street food (roasted corn).
• He purchased love stories and readers' digest publications.
• He enjoyed Coca-Cola and Sandee juice with companions.
• These experiences captured the sights, sounds, and tastes of the city.

The Flute Seller and the Magic of Music

• Seth encountered a flute seller near his hotel.
• The seller had a bamboo stand with 50-60 flutes protruding from it like a porcupine.
• The flutes were a mix of cross flutes and recorders, designed for specific music.
• Seth found the flute's high-pitched melody, drowning out city noises, calming.
• The flute seller's approach to sales was integrated with the music.
• The seller paused playing for customers and then resumed.

Seth's reflection

• Seth reflected on the power of the flute's music.
• He highlighted the universal appeal of flutes across cultures.
• He suggested listening to traditional Krishna flute music.
• He wanted to breathe life into flutes, play them, and connect with their sound.
• The flute seller was a significant figure in Seth's Kathmandu journey.
• The music embodied human interconnectedness and positive energy.