Journey to Kathmandu - Heaven Lake

Study Notes

The chapter "Kathmandu" is an excerpt from Vikram Seth's novel Heaven Lake.
The writer, Vikram Seth, details his journey from China to India, passing through Tibet and Nepal.
While in Kathmandu, he stayed in an inexpensive hotel room.
With Mr. Shah's son and nephew, he visits two famous temples in Kathmandu, one Hindu and one Buddhist.

The temple is specifically for Hindus, only Hindus are allowed entrance.
The temple is crowded with worshipers, priests, tourists, and animals.
The writer and Mr. Shah's son and nephew give flowers to the priest.
The crowd is pushing to get to the front of the queue.
A princess from the royal family arrives, and everyone steps aside to show respect, bowing their heads.
Non-Hindus are denied entry by the guards.
The writer observes two monkeys fighting, with one leaping onto the Shiva Lingam and then fleeing to the Bagmati River.

The river is polluted with dead bodies burning, clothes being washed, and children bathing.
Priests throw old flowers and offerings from the temple into the river.
A goddess' statue half-buried in the ground is believed to bring the end of the Kali Yuga when it fully emerges.
Kali Yuga is the present epoch, according to Hindu beliefs, preceded by Satya Yuga, Treta Yuga, and Dvapara Yuga.

The Buddhist temple is peaceful compared to the bustling Pashupatinath Temple.
The white dome is surrounded by streets and shops, many owned by Tibetan immigrants.
Tibetan printed clothes and silver jewelry are sold.

The narrow streets are adorned with flower-decorated Hindu temples.
There are many vendors - fruit sellers, flute sellers, postcard sellers, and vendors selling old Nepalese items.
The writer is absorbed in the chaotic scene of car horns, bicycle bells, and street vendors yelling.
The writer buys roasted potatoes with lemon, salt, and pepper, romance novels, and Reader's Digest.
Inspired by the city's energy, the writer considers traveling to Patna by bus or train, then continuing to Varanasi, then visiting Allahabad, Agra, and Delhi.

The writer notices a street musician playing a flute.
The flute is attached to a stick, with many flutes branching out like the horns of a rhinoceros.
The musician plays various flutes, including cross flutes and recorders, with a melodious sound.
The musician stands on the street corner, playing serenely despite the surrounding traffic noise.
The writer marvels at the musician's focus and effortless technique.
The flute symbolizes a unity of different human cultures, with its distinct sounds in every culture (Shakuhachi in Japan, deep classical music in India, clear and bath flutes in South America, and a high-pitched flute in China).
The writer views the flute's sound as a universal language, connecting humanity with a positive energy.