Podcast
Questions and Answers
What is the primary function of the stratum corneum in skin absorption?
What is the primary function of the stratum corneum in skin absorption?
- To allow all active ingredients to pass through freely
- To serve as a barrier against UV filters
- To increase the absorption of active ingredients
- To retain water and block external materials (correct)
Which of the following molecules typically has the highest skin absorption rate?
Which of the following molecules typically has the highest skin absorption rate?
- UV filters which are absorbed at 2-4% (correct)
- Retinoids at around 1%
- Lightening actives that target melanocytes
- Humectants that cannot penetrate the skin
Which strategy is classified as an active approach to increase delivery of actives?
Which strategy is classified as an active approach to increase delivery of actives?
- Increasing the thermodynamic activity
- Utilizing penetration enhancers
- Use of liposomes in formulation
- Application of microneedles (correct)
What is a characteristic of the intercellular route for molecules passing through the skin?
What is a characteristic of the intercellular route for molecules passing through the skin?
Which method is NOT considered a passive strategy to enhance active delivery?
Which method is NOT considered a passive strategy to enhance active delivery?
What role do penetration enhancers like DMSO play in a formulation?
What role do penetration enhancers like DMSO play in a formulation?
In terms of skin absorption, which of the following factors affects whether active ingredients can penetrate?
In terms of skin absorption, which of the following factors affects whether active ingredients can penetrate?
Which formulation type is most likely to improve active delivery through increased thermodynamic activity?
Which formulation type is most likely to improve active delivery through increased thermodynamic activity?
What is the significance of the sphere in Hansen's solubility model?
What is the significance of the sphere in Hansen's solubility model?
Which parameter is NOT a component of Hansen's Solubility Parameters?
Which parameter is NOT a component of Hansen's Solubility Parameters?
What does a distance (Ra) greater than the radius of interaction imply for two substances?
What does a distance (Ra) greater than the radius of interaction imply for two substances?
What is the accepted SI unit for solubility parameters as mentioned in the content?
What is the accepted SI unit for solubility parameters as mentioned in the content?
Which software models are mentioned for calculating solubility parameters?
Which software models are mentioned for calculating solubility parameters?
What is attributed to a solubility parameter value of ±10 (cal/cm3)1/2?
What is attributed to a solubility parameter value of ±10 (cal/cm3)1/2?
Which of the following substances is mentioned as an example of a Type II solubilizer?
Which of the following substances is mentioned as an example of a Type II solubilizer?
Why is it important to stick with one approach when calculating solubility parameters?
Why is it important to stick with one approach when calculating solubility parameters?
Why is it important to determine how much of an active ingredient partitions into the skin for cosmetic formulations?
Why is it important to determine how much of an active ingredient partitions into the skin for cosmetic formulations?
What is a primary characteristic of the active ingredients used in topical cosmetic formulations?
What is a primary characteristic of the active ingredients used in topical cosmetic formulations?
What principle do solubility parameters operate on?
What principle do solubility parameters operate on?
What does the Hildebrand solubility parameter value indicate?
What does the Hildebrand solubility parameter value indicate?
What does Hansen's approach to solubility parameter analysis involve?
What does Hansen's approach to solubility parameter analysis involve?
If a formulation contains a high concentration of active but only a small amount partitions, what might a cosmetic formulator need to do?
If a formulation contains a high concentration of active but only a small amount partitions, what might a cosmetic formulator need to do?
What does the heat of vaporization relate to in the context of Hildebrand solubility parameters?
What does the heat of vaporization relate to in the context of Hildebrand solubility parameters?
What might happen if the solubility parameter values for a solute and solvent are significantly different?
What might happen if the solubility parameter values for a solute and solvent are significantly different?
What is the solubility parameter of EA?
What is the solubility parameter of EA?
Which parameter has the greatest influence on the movement of the active from the formulation into the skin?
Which parameter has the greatest influence on the movement of the active from the formulation into the skin?
In Fick's 1st law of diffusion, what is implied about the skin?
In Fick's 1st law of diffusion, what is implied about the skin?
What determines the movement of the active from a formulation into the skin according to Higuchi?
What determines the movement of the active from a formulation into the skin according to Higuchi?
What is the typical attributed value of thermodynamic activity (α) for a solute in a saturated solution?
What is the typical attributed value of thermodynamic activity (α) for a solute in a saturated solution?
What is the saturated solubility of caffeine in solvent A?
What is the saturated solubility of caffeine in solvent A?
According to Higuchi, how should the activity in the skin (γ) generally be characterized?
According to Higuchi, how should the activity in the skin (γ) generally be characterized?
What does the partition coefficient (K) primarily determine in the context of absorption?
What does the partition coefficient (K) primarily determine in the context of absorption?
What is the solubility parameter (cal/cm³)¹/² of ethyl acetate (EA)?
What is the solubility parameter (cal/cm³)¹/² of ethyl acetate (EA)?
Which solvent has the highest solubility parameter value according to the data?
Which solvent has the highest solubility parameter value according to the data?
What effect do binary and ternary solvent combinations have on saturated solubility?
What effect do binary and ternary solvent combinations have on saturated solubility?
What is the maximum y-axis value for single solvents concerning permeation amounts?
What is the maximum y-axis value for single solvents concerning permeation amounts?
In a binary solvent system, what is the maximum y-axis value reported for permeation amounts?
In a binary solvent system, what is the maximum y-axis value reported for permeation amounts?
Which solvent has a solubility parameter closest to that of EA?
Which solvent has a solubility parameter closest to that of EA?
What is the solubility parameter of propylene glycol (PG)?
What is the solubility parameter of propylene glycol (PG)?
What general trend is observed in permeation amounts with increased solvent combinations?
What general trend is observed in permeation amounts with increased solvent combinations?
What does a high affinity between an active ingredient and a vehicle indicate?
What does a high affinity between an active ingredient and a vehicle indicate?
What is the implication of having a larger percentage of an active ingredient partition from one solvent relative to another?
What is the implication of having a larger percentage of an active ingredient partition from one solvent relative to another?
If caffeine in solvent A shows high activity and in solvent B shows low activity when both are at 0.2 mg/mL, what conclusion can be drawn?
If caffeine in solvent A shows high activity and in solvent B shows low activity when both are at 0.2 mg/mL, what conclusion can be drawn?
Why are solutes held firmly by the vehicle said to have low activity coefficients?
Why are solutes held firmly by the vehicle said to have low activity coefficients?
Which property of the active ingredient influences its penetration speed into the skin?
Which property of the active ingredient influences its penetration speed into the skin?
To increase the likelihood of delivering an active ingredient to the skin, one should focus on solvents with what characteristic?
To increase the likelihood of delivering an active ingredient to the skin, one should focus on solvents with what characteristic?
What is the main consequence of formulating at maximum solubility of an active ingredient?
What is the main consequence of formulating at maximum solubility of an active ingredient?
Which solvent is an example of a vehicle that might be selected due to its high affinity for active ingredients?
Which solvent is an example of a vehicle that might be selected due to its high affinity for active ingredients?
Flashcards
Stratum Corneum (SC)
Stratum Corneum (SC)
The outermost layer of skin, a barrier that prevents most molecules from penetrating the body.
Iontophoresis
Iontophoresis
A method of delivering actives through the skin using electrical current, increasing permeability.
Phonophoresis
Phonophoresis
A method of delivering actives through the skin using ultrasound, causing temporary pores.
Intercellular Route
Intercellular Route
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Transcellular Route
Transcellular Route
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Appendageal Route
Appendageal Route
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Penetration Enhancers
Penetration Enhancers
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Supersaturation
Supersaturation
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Solubility Parameter (SP)
Solubility Parameter (SP)
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Cohesive Energy Density
Cohesive Energy Density
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Heat of Vaporization
Heat of Vaporization
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Hildebrand Solubility Parameter
Hildebrand Solubility Parameter
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Hansen Solubility Parameters
Hansen Solubility Parameters
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Solubility
Solubility
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Saturated Solubility
Saturated Solubility
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Partitioning
Partitioning
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Solubility Parameter
Solubility Parameter
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Partition Coefficient (K)
Partition Coefficient (K)
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Percutaneous Absorption
Percutaneous Absorption
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Fick's 1st Law of Diffusion
Fick's 1st Law of Diffusion
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Thermodynamic Activity (𝜶)
Thermodynamic Activity (𝜶)
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Activity Coefficient in Skin (𝜸)
Activity Coefficient in Skin (𝜸)
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Maximum Thermodynamic Activity (𝜶 = 1)
Maximum Thermodynamic Activity (𝜶 = 1)
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Hansen Solubility Parameter (HSP) Model
Hansen Solubility Parameter (HSP) Model
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Hansen Solubility Parameters (HSPs)
Hansen Solubility Parameters (HSPs)
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Solubility Distance (Ra)
Solubility Distance (Ra)
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Radius of Interaction (HSP Model)
Radius of Interaction (HSP Model)
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HSP and Solubility Prediction
HSP and Solubility Prediction
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Solubility Parameter Models
Solubility Parameter Models
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Consistency in Solubility Parameter Model
Consistency in Solubility Parameter Model
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Affinity and Penetration
Affinity and Penetration
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Thermodynamic Activity and Affinity
Thermodynamic Activity and Affinity
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Balancing Concentration and Activity
Balancing Concentration and Activity
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Multiple Solvent System
Multiple Solvent System
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Common Solvents
Common Solvents
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SP Closest to EA
SP Closest to EA
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Binary & Ternary Solvent Systems
Binary & Ternary Solvent Systems
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Permeability
Permeability
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Saturated Solubility in Formulation
Saturated Solubility in Formulation
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Solubility vs. Permeability
Solubility vs. Permeability
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Maximum Y-Axis Value
Maximum Y-Axis Value
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Study Notes
Formulation Strategies: Part 1
- Formulation strategies are concerned with increasing the delivery of actives.
- A cosmetic active is a substance intended for topical application to the skin, intended to change, improve or correct the body's appearance.
- No legal definition for cosmetic active, interpretation differs.
- Example criteria for an active: "Those materials for which it is possible to carry out controlled experiments in which a baseline cosmetic effect is measurably enhanced by the addition of the active in a defined concentration."
- Active delivery is determined through intrinsic molecular activity and the delivery to targeted locations.
Overview
- Active ingredients require specific biological models for testing.
- Key tests for active include:
- In vitro tests (e.g., with cells)
- In vivo tests (e.g., on skin), using diffusion cells, tape stripping, confocal raman spectroscopy
- Product efficacy testing provides indirect measures. Tools for this include a corneometer and a cutometer.
- Important factors include Fick's law, physicochemical characteristics (e.g., solubility, molecular weight) and parameters (e.g., Higuchi).
What Are Cosmetic Actives?
- No legal definition.
- Interpretation varies.
- Glycerol is not always considered an active.
- Definition: A definition that applies strict criteria (materials that can be used in controlled experiments to determine the baseline cosmetic effect of a compound, considering the compound's specific concentration.).
Is the Active Working?
- Active efficacy is determined by intrinsic activity, delivery to the action site, and assessment through indirect means like product efficacy testing.
Where Are We Delivering To?
- External parts of human body: epidermis
- Possible locations:
- Skin surface (e.g., for UV filters)
- Stratum corneum (e.g., for humectants)
- Melanocytes (e.g., for lightening)
- Viable epidermis (e.g., for antiaging actives)
- Dermis (e.g., for antiaging)
Delivery of the Active
- Skin absorption is generally low (2-4%, around 1% in the case of retinoids).
- Barrier characteristics of stratum corneum have varying effects, based on material size (greater than 500 Da).
- Ionized molecules often have a more difficult time entering the skin.
- Formulation and active properties affect absorption.
What Can We Do to Increase Delivery of the Active?
- Active: This approach uses physical methods to enhance penetration. Examples include iontophoresis, phonophoresis, microneedles, and physical occlusion (patches).
- Passive: This approach improves delivery by modifying formulation characteristics.
Passive Strategies: Formulation
- Penetration enhancers (e.g., fatty acids, urea, alcohol, DMSO, Azone, terpenes).
- Specific formulation types (e.g., emulsions, nano or microemulsions, micelles, liposomes).
- Ion pairing, supersaturation, and optimization of formulation.
- Concentration of active.
- Thermodynamic activity of the active.
How Do Molecules Pass Through the SC?
- Molecules can pass through the skin through three key pathways:
- Intercellular (dominant)
- Transcellular
- Appendageal pathways (hair follicles, sebaceous glands, sweat glands)
Intercellular Route
- The dominant pathway.
- Contains alternating aqueous and lipid domains.
- The active must partition into alternating lipid and aqueous domains for the molecule to pass through the skin.
Fick's Laws of Diffusion
- The movement of compounds through the skin follows Fick's laws.
- 1st step: partition into stratum corneum
- 2nd step: diffusion.
- Repeated partitioning and diffusion across alternating domains is integral.
When Formulating, Consider These Active Characteristics
- Molecular weight (MW)
- Melting point
- Partition coefficient
- Solubility
- Potency
- Active's ability to leave the formulation and partition into the skin
Physicochemical Characteristics
- Ideal MW: less than 500 Daltons.
- Compounds with lower melting points often have higher skin partitioning.
- Ideal log P: 1-3; to balance partitioning between aqueous and lipid phases.
Potency of the Active
- LD50 (Lethal dose 50) is a toxicity measure for assessing the potency of compounds.
- Comparing LD50 values of a compound with other molecules can provide insights into its relative potency.
- For effective topical use of actives small amounts of the compound are required.
Solubility of the Active
- Topically applied actives require solubility in a formulation.
- High concentration of active may be needed in the formulation if significant skin partitioning is needed.
- Selection tool to determine the suitability of a solvent: solubility parameters can be used to determine a solvent's compatibility.
Solubility Parameters (SP)
- Numerical values indicating a solute-solvent's relative solvency behavior.
- Determine compatibility using the concept that similar components dissolve each other. Values are associated with cohesive energy density for molecular interaction
- Hildebrand's SPs, based on van der Waals' forces.
- Hansen's SPs, which distinguish hydrogen bonding, dipole-dipole, and van der Waal's interactions.
Higuchi: Percutaneous Absorption
- The rate is determined by the partition coefficient of the active passing through the skin.
- Partition from the formulation into the skin is a crucial first step. (the active to pass the outer skin layers).
- The partition coefficient is related to molecular structure and size.
Higuchi 1 and 2 (Activity)
- Thermodynamic activity of the active, in relation to the formulation and skin, is a key concept
- Activity is the driving force for the movement of an active from the formulation to the skin rather than concentration. Activity is less than 1 for most.
Higuchi 3 (Solubility & Affinity)
- High solubility in a suitable solvent is a sign of high affinity rather than maximum solubility.
- Understanding an active's affinity for the vehicle and skin is crucial.
Higuchi 4 (High Affinity)
- High affinity can be identified by high solubility and concentration in the vehicle.
- If an active has differing activity in different vehicles, the difference will affect how quickly it permeates.
Practical Implications of Thermodynamic Activity
- Active concentration and activity must be balanced.
- Solubility parameters to select solvents, noting high affinity for active and low affinity balancing.
Conclusion
- Optimizing conditions for active release within the skin and to stratum corneum is needed for effective delivery.
References
- Higuchi (1960), Physical chemical analysis of percutaneous absorption process from creams and ointments (The reference is directly found in the provided data)
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Description
Test your knowledge on the primary functions and mechanisms of skin absorption. This quiz covers topics including the stratum corneum, absorption rates of molecules, and strategies for delivering active ingredients through the skin. Ideal for students in dermatology or cosmetic science.