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Hair Density and Porosity

• Hair density is the number of individual hair strands per square inch of the scalp.
• Density is classified as thin, medium, or thick

Hair Porosity

• Porosity refers to the hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture
• It is affected by the cuticle layer and how tightly its scales are bound together
• Porosity can be classified as low, medium, or high

Hair Growth Patterns

• Clockwise hair growth patterns are more common than counter-clockwise patterns
• Studies reveal that only 5% possess counter clock wise hair growing patterns

Softening and Straightening Hair

• Chemical texture services alter the natural curl or coil patterns of the hair
• The cuticle and cortex layers of the hair are affected.
• Thio relaxers use ammonium thioglycolate and have a pH above 10.

Hair Analysis

• Key factors of hair analysis include texture, porosity, and elasticity
• These must be analyzed before chemical straightening
• It is vital to ask the client about previous chemical services to determine how it may affect results

Protective Measures

• Apply a protective base cream to the scalp before applying relaxers
• Avoid scratching the scalp with combs or fingernails 2 to 3 days before relaxing

Relaxer Application

• Apply the relaxer quickly
• Avoid overlapping onto previously relaxed hair.
• The application should typically take no more than 20 minutes

Neutralizing and Conditioning

• Neutralizing rehardens and fixes the hair into its new straightened shape
• Use neutralizing shampoos designed for post-relaxer care

Chemical Relaxers

• Ammonium thioglycolate relaxers have a pH of 9.6 to 10.5
• They must be used with a neutralizing shampoo.
• Some relaxers may cause dryness due to their alkaline pH

Types of Relaxers

• "Lye" relaxers contain sodium hydroxide.
• "No-lye" relaxers include guanidine hydroxide

Hair Damage Risk

• Overlapping chemical relaxers can cause breakage.
• Improper neutralization can also lead to damage

Environmental Concerns

• When disposing of chemical waste, follow safety procedures.

Hair and Scalp Disorders

• Common hair and scalp disorders can affect suitability for chemical services
• These include the conditions that follow

Nape Dermatitis:

• Nape Dermatitis causes chronic itching and inflammation of the skin on the nape of the neck

Types if Scalp Infections

• Tinea Capitis is a fungal infection characterized by red papules or spots at the opening of hair follicles
• Pityriasis Steatoides is a severe case of dandruff characterized by an accumulation of greasy or waxy scales

Consultation

• During consultation, assess the hair's current condition, length, thickness, texture, and porosity.

Relaxer Strand Testing

• A strand test is advised to check elasticity on a relaxer application

Client Records

• Complete client records with the client
• This avoids misunderstandings and possible claims

Shampoo and Protective Capes

• Use shampoo capes for shampooing while rinsing out relaxers and for deep-conditioning services
• Shampoo capes are made of waterproof material.

Ergonomic Practices

• Maintain correct posture to avoid muscle fatigue and injuries.

Quality Service Enhancements

• High worker satisfaction leads to a successful business

Natural Hair Masks

• Ingredients such as cider vinegar, olive oil, bananas and avocadoes may be included for enhanced results

Pre-Relaxation Treatments

• Clarifying treatments remove mineral buildup before chemical services.
• They are often used with hard water.

Relaxer Application

• Generally, virgin relaxer applications begin 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the scalp

Post Treatment

• Acid-balanced shampoos should be used to restore the hair's natural pH and harden it after the relaxer process