Podcast
Questions and Answers
Who invented the first permanent wave machine?
Who invented the first permanent wave machine?
Charles Nessler
Who invented the first permanent wave technique that did not require the use of a machine?
Who invented the first permanent wave technique that did not require the use of a machine?
Evans and McDonough
Who invented the cold wave that did not use machines or heat?
Who invented the cold wave that did not use machines or heat?
Arnold Willatt
What are the three types of perm products?
What are the three types of perm products?
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What is the role of perm solution?
What is the role of perm solution?
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What is the function of a neutralizer in the perm process?
What is the function of a neutralizer in the perm process?
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List the steps involved in the perm process.
List the steps involved in the perm process.
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Alkaline perms are processed with heat.
Alkaline perms are processed with heat.
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Acid perms are generally recommended for fragile or chemically treated hair.
Acid perms are generally recommended for fragile or chemically treated hair.
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What is the typical pH range for acid perms?
What is the typical pH range for acid perms?
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What is the main ingredient found in alkaline perms?
What is the main ingredient found in alkaline perms?
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What is an exothermic perm?
What is an exothermic perm?
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What reducing agent is used in low/no thio perms?
What reducing agent is used in low/no thio perms?
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What type of cream is applied to protect the skin during the perm process?
What type of cream is applied to protect the skin during the perm process?
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What is the pH of alkaline perms?
What is the pH of alkaline perms?
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What is the main purpose of neutralizers in the perm process?
What is the main purpose of neutralizers in the perm process?
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Study Notes
Perming Overview
- Charles Nessler created the first permanent wave machine.
- Evans and McDonough developed the first permanent wave technique without machine assistance.
- Arnold Willatt introduced cold waves, similar to modern perms, that rely on no machines or heat.
Types of Perm Products
- Perm products are classified into three categories: neutral, low/no thio, and low pH/alkaline.
Perm Solutions
- Perm Solution acts as a reducing agent to alter hair structure.
- Neutralizer serves as an oxidizing agent, essential for reforming hair bonds.
Perm Process Steps
- Hair is wrapped around chosen perm rods, and the waving lotion is applied to break disulfide bonds.
- Processing lotion softens the hair's protein structure, allowing it to mold into the shape of the rod.
- Post rinsing, a neutralizer is applied to reform the disulfide bonds in the new shape.
Alkaline Perms
- Processed without heat, alkaline perms are suitable for resistant hair types.
- pH range: 8.0-9.5; includes thioglycolic acid and ammonium hydroxide for effective processing.
- Wrapping must be done without excessive tension to avoid damage or uneven processing.
Acid Perms
- Also known as "heat perms," they are processed with the use of heat to enhance results.
- pH range: 6.9-7.2; more suitable for fragile and previously permed hair.
- Requires careful wrapping with even tension for uniform curl patterns.
Exothermic Perms
- Self-heating and self-timing through chemical reactions, exothermic perms can be either alkaline or acid.
- Suitable for various hair types with benefits similar to acid perms.
Low/No Thio Perms
- Introduced in 1992, these perms use cysteine hydrochloride as a reducing agent for clients with thioglycolic acid allergies.
- Provides deeper penetration and consistency in curls while minimizing cuticle dilation.
Ionic/Heat Perms
- Known as digital or soft wave perms, they allow for precise temperature control using computer technology.
- Produces defined curls that last 3-6 months without requiring additional styling products.
Neutralizers
- The final chemical step, neutralizers reform disulfide bonds and lower hair pH.
- Main ingredients include hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate, or sodium bromate, each needing careful timing to prevent hair damage.
Protective Measures
- Barrier Creams protect the skin during the perm application process.
- Protective cream prevents perm solution absorption in non-processed hair areas, safeguarding against chemical exposure.
Tools and Equipment
- Cloth towels are used for blotting excess moisture and chemicals.
- Perm Bib/Neutralizing Cape catches chemicals that drip during the process.
- Picks/Stabilizers secure perm rods and prevent movement during the chemical phase.
- End Papers help control hair ends during wrapping and equalize porosity.
- Heat appliances like hood dryers and infrared lamps provide necessary heat for acid perms.
Summary of Perm Advantages
- Alkaline Perms: Strong curls, faster processing, suited for resistant hair without the use of heat.
- Acid Perms: Soft, natural curl patterns, gentler on hair, more control for fragile hair types.
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Description
Test your knowledge on the history and techniques of perming with these flashcards. Learn about key figures like Charles Nessler and the evolution of permanent wave machines. Ideal for beauty students and professionals alike.