Questions and Answers
What is the wave crest?
What is wave height?
The vertical distance between zero height point and the wave crest or trough.
What causes ocean waves to form?
Energy from winds, storm surge, seismic events, changes in atmospheric pressure, landslides, volcanic eruptions, or gravitational forces.
What is the restoring force?
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What is a capillary wave?
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What is a wind wave?
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What is a seiche?
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What generates a seismic sea wave (tsunami)?
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What are tides?
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What is a storm surge?
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What are plunging waves?
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What characterizes spilling waves?
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What defines a tsunami?
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What generates seismic sea waves?
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What can generate a tsunami?
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Study Notes
Parts of the Wave
- Wave Crest: The highest point of a wave.
- Wave Trough: The lowest point of a wave.
- Wave Height (Amplitude): Vertical distance from the zero height point to wave crest or trough.
- Wavelength: Horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs.
- Wave Frequency: Number of waves passing a fixed point per second.
- Wave Period: Time taken for a wave to travel a distance of one wavelength.
Distributing Force
- Energy sources responsible for wave formation include wind, storm surge, seismic events, atmospheric pressure changes, landslides, volcanic eruptions, and gravitational forces.
Restoring Force
- The primary force that returns the water surface to a flat state after a wave has formed, causing overcompensation and oscillation.
Capillary Wave
- Caused by wind (distributing force) and restored by cohesion of water molecules.
- Features a height of up to 1.73 cm.
Wind Wave
- Formed by wind over the ocean (distributing force) and restored by gravity.
- Ranges in size from 60 to 150 meters (200 to 500 feet).
Seiche
- Results from changes in atmospheric pressure, storm surge, or tsunamis (distributing force) and is restored by gravity.
- Size is variable and depends on ocean basin dimensions.
Seismic Sea Wave (Tsunami)
- Generated by underwater faulting, volcanic eruptions, or landslides (distributing force) and restored by gravity.
- Can travel up to 200 km (125 miles).
Tide
- Caused by gravitational attraction and the Earth's rotation (distributing force) with gravity acting as the restoring force.
- Associated with half the Earth's circumference in its effect.
Storm Surge
- An abrupt water bulge driven ashore by tropical cyclones or storms, potentially rising up to 7.5 meters and consisting solely of a crest.
- Associated with significant destruction and loss of life.
Plunging Waves
- Characterized by the upper section that topples forward, creating an air-filled tube.
Spilling Wave
- A type of breaking wave where the crest slides down the front face of the wave.
Tsunami
- Long-wavelength, shallow-water progressive waves resulting from the rapid displacement of ocean water, such as through landslides.
Seismic Sea Waves
- Tsunamis specifically generated by vertical movements of the Earth along faults, reshaping ocean basins through tectonic activity.
Tsunami Generation Events
- Can be caused by landslides, icebergs falling from glaciers, volcanic eruptions, asteroid impacts, and other surface displacements.
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Description
Test your knowledge with these flashcards covering key terms and definitions from Chapter 10 of Oceanography. Learn about the different parts of a wave, including wave crest, trough, height, wavelength, frequency, and period. Perfect for students preparing for exams or anyone interested in marine science!
