Oceanography Chapter 10 Flashcards

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Questions and Answers

What is the wave crest?

The highest point of a wave (correct)

The horizontal distance between two successive crests

The lowest point of a wave

The number of waves that passes a fixed point per second

What is wave height?

The vertical distance between zero height point and the wave crest or trough.

What causes ocean waves to form?

Energy from winds, storm surge, seismic events, changes in atmospheric pressure, landslides, volcanic eruptions, or gravitational forces.

What is the restoring force?

The dominant force that returns the water surface to flatness after a wave has formed. Signup and view all the answers

What is a capillary wave?

A wave with a distributing force of wind and a restoring force of cohesion of water molecules. Signup and view all the answers

What is a wind wave?

A wave with a distributing force of wind over the ocean and a restoring force of gravity, typically ranging from 60 to 150 m. Signup and view all the answers

What is a seiche?

A wave generated by changes in atmospheric pressure, storm surge, or tsunami, with gravity as the restoring force. Signup and view all the answers

What generates a seismic sea wave (tsunami)?

Faulting of the sea floor, volcanic eruptions, or landslides. Signup and view all the answers

What are tides?

Waves caused by gravitational attraction and Earth's rotation, with gravity as the restoring force. Signup and view all the answers

What is a storm surge?

An abrupt bulge of water driven on shore by a tropical cyclone or frontal storm. Signup and view all the answers

What are plunging waves?

Breaking waves where the upper section topples forward and away from the bottom, forming an air-filled tube. Signup and view all the answers

What characterizes spilling waves?

A breaking wave whose crest slides down the face of the wave. Signup and view all the answers

What defines a tsunami?

Long wavelength, shallow water waves caused by the rapid displacement of ocean water. Signup and view all the answers

What generates seismic sea waves?

Vertical movements of Earth along faults that change the shape of the ocean basin. Signup and view all the answers

What can generate a tsunami?

All of the above Signup and view all the answers

Study Notes

Parts of the Wave

Wave Crest: The highest point of a wave.
Wave Trough: The lowest point of a wave.
Wave Height (Amplitude): Vertical distance from the zero height point to wave crest or trough.
Wavelength: Horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs.
Wave Frequency: Number of waves passing a fixed point per second.
Wave Period: Time taken for a wave to travel a distance of one wavelength.

Distributing Force

Energy sources responsible for wave formation include wind, storm surge, seismic events, atmospheric pressure changes, landslides, volcanic eruptions, and gravitational forces.

Restoring Force

The primary force that returns the water surface to a flat state after a wave has formed, causing overcompensation and oscillation.

Capillary Wave

Caused by wind (distributing force) and restored by cohesion of water molecules.
Features a height of up to 1.73 cm.

Wind Wave

Formed by wind over the ocean (distributing force) and restored by gravity.
Ranges in size from 60 to 150 meters (200 to 500 feet).

Seiche

Results from changes in atmospheric pressure, storm surge, or tsunamis (distributing force) and is restored by gravity.
Size is variable and depends on ocean basin dimensions.

Seismic Sea Wave (Tsunami)

Generated by underwater faulting, volcanic eruptions, or landslides (distributing force) and restored by gravity.
Can travel up to 200 km (125 miles).

Tide

Caused by gravitational attraction and the Earth's rotation (distributing force) with gravity acting as the restoring force.
Associated with half the Earth's circumference in its effect.

Storm Surge

An abrupt water bulge driven ashore by tropical cyclones or storms, potentially rising up to 7.5 meters and consisting solely of a crest.
Associated with significant destruction and loss of life.

Plunging Waves

Characterized by the upper section that topples forward, creating an air-filled tube.

Spilling Wave

A type of breaking wave where the crest slides down the front face of the wave.

Tsunami

Long-wavelength, shallow-water progressive waves resulting from the rapid displacement of ocean water, such as through landslides.

Seismic Sea Waves

Tsunamis specifically generated by vertical movements of the Earth along faults, reshaping ocean basins through tectonic activity.

Tsunami Generation Events

Can be caused by landslides, icebergs falling from glaciers, volcanic eruptions, asteroid impacts, and other surface displacements.

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Description

Test your knowledge with these flashcards covering key terms and definitions from Chapter 10 of Oceanography. Learn about the different parts of a wave, including wave crest, trough, height, wavelength, frequency, and period. Perfect for students preparing for exams or anyone interested in marine science!