Ocean Currents and Their Causes

Response to normal conditions and response to storm conditions

It is the narrow opening between the lagoon and the sea.

The wave transports sand from the offshore bar built during the storm and places the material on the beach.

<p>Normal wave conditions transport sand from offshore bars back to the beach.</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Sand is deposited too far offshore during the storm to be returned to the beach by normal wave conditions.</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>During storm conditions, the coast may need to sacrifice large sections of beach and dune.</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Waves approaching the beach at an angle</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>When longshore current flows seaward under certain conditions</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Wind blowing over the surface of the water</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Strong winds creating a pile-up of water against a barrier</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Waves created by earthquakes or tectonic disturbances on the ocean bottom</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Beach and nearshore zone regions</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Average size of sand particles, range and distribution of sizes, sand composition, elevation and width of berm, slope or steepness of the foreshore, the existence of a bar, and the general slopes of the inshore zone fronting the beach.</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Clays and silt.</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Long narrow island or spits laying parallel to the mainland.</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Ranges from fine sand to cobbles, including weathered mountain rocks (sand), fragments of coastal formation, sediment from deeper water, marine shell fragments, coral reef fragment, and volcano material.</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>A deposition landform in which an island is attached to the mainland by a narrow piece of land such as a spit or bar.</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Lagoons are shallow bodies of water separating the barrier beach from the mainland. They are usually connected to the sea by narrow channels through tidal current flow.</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>By interrupting longshore transport and trapping onshore-offshore moving sand.</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Sand transport to the inlet by wave is carried seaward and deposited on an outer bar.</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Sand in the inlet is carried into the lagoon and deposited, creating inner bars.</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Tidal inlets store sand and reduce the supply of sand to adjacent shores.</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>The rate of supply and loss of littoral material (sediment).</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Conservation of sand is crucial to maintaining stable beaches.</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Waves and overflowing water</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Deflation</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Longshore Sediment Transport</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Selective redistribution of sediment particles along a beach profile</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>To balance the selective loss of finer material to the offshore region</p> Signup and view all the answers

<p>Land Subsidence from Removal of Subsurface Resources</p> Signup and view all the answers