Milady Chapter 17 Hairstyling

Historical Hairstyles

• Popular hairstyles during the 1920s and 1930s include bobs, finger waves, and pincurls.

Hairstyling Skills

• Essential for helping clients stay contemporary and aligned with current trends.

Client Education

• Clients depend on hairstylists for guidance on hair care and styling options tailored to their lifestyle and fashion preferences.

Finger Waving

• Waving lotion is a specialized hair gel that makes the hair pliable for finger waving.

Pin Curls

• Versatile for all hair types: straight, permanently waved, or naturally curly.
• Comprised of three main components: base, stem, and curl.
• Various types include:
  • No-stem curl: placed directly on its base for tight curls with minimal movement.
  • Half-stem curl: positioned half off the base allowing medium movement.
  • Full-stem curl: entirely off the base for maximum mobility.

Curl Techniques

• Shaping: circular molding of hair to prepare for curls.
• Open-center curls: pin curls that create smooth, uniform waves.
• Closed-center curls: produce waves shrinking towards the ends.

Base Styles of Pin Curls

• Arc base: also known as half-moon or C-shaped curls.
• Rectangular base: recommended for creating smooth upswept effects; curls should overlap.
• Triangular base: helps prevent breaks in hairstyles at the front hairline.

Curling Techniques

• Ribboning: technique to create tension by forcing hair between the thumb and comb.
• Carved curls: sculpted pin curls formed without lifting hair from the head.
• Ridge curls: placed behind a ridge for wave formation.
• Skip waves: two rows of ridge curls.

Rollers and Thermal Styling

• Base refers to the panel where rollers are placed, matching roller dimensions.
• Different turns around a roller create distinct wave patterns:
  • One turn for C-shaped curl, one and a half for waves, and two and a half for curls.

Curl Positioning

• On base: full base for maximum volume.
• Half base: gives medium-volume and movement.
• Off base: produces maximum mobility with minimal volume.

Indentation and Backcombing

• Indentation: area where curls meet in opposite directions.
• Backcombing: teasing hair to create volume at the scalp.
• Backbrushing: technique for soft cushioning and blending curl patterns.

Blow-Dry and Styling Products

• Hair wrapping: keeps curls smooth while maintaining shape.
• Blowdry styling: a method that dries and styles damp hair simultaneously.
• Common styling products include foam (for volume), liquid gel (for easy styling), silicone (for gloss), hairspray (for hold), and thermal waving tools.

Thermal Tools and Techniques

• Flat irons and curling irons are essential for styling:
  • Hair should be tested for heat on tissue.
  • Temporary straightening called hair pressing can be performed using varying pressure techniques: soft press, medium press, and hard press, each removing different percentages of curl.

Hair Types and Combing

• Wiry, curly hair can be coarse, medium, or fine and has a stiff texture.
• Scalp conditions vary by normal, tight, or flexible.
• Pressing combs should be made of quality stainless steel or brass, with tightly spaced teeth for smooth pressing.

Hair Care and Maintenance

• Touch-ups may be needed when hair curls again after exposure to moisture.
• The knot (or chignon) is a formal hairstyle resembling a bun created from a ponytail.
• A pleat (classic French twist) is a traditional updo used in formal settings, symbolizing elegance and sophistication.