Hand Tools for Assembly in Shoemaking

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Questions and Answers

Which tool is mainly used for tightening leather or faux upper?

  • Hammer
  • Lasting Pliers (correct)
  • Awl
  • Puncher

A clicker cutting machine requires cutting dies for each shoe pattern part.

True (A)

What is the primary use of shoe knives?

Cutting leather, soles, cardboard.

The ______ is responsible for removing pinned tacks from the lasted upper.

<p>Tacks remover</p> Signup and view all the answers

Match the following tools with their primary uses:

<p>Hammer = Securing sole to upper Scissors = Cutting leather with precision Awl = Stitching leather components Sewing Machine = Joining pieces of cloth or leather</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which machine is used for pulling the upper section of the shoe over the last?

<p>Lasting machine (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Scissors for shoe making are designed for cutting materials like plastic and metal.

<p>False (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the role of splitting machines in the shoe making process?

<p>To accurately split materials into thinner dimensions.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary characteristic of full-grain leather?

<p>It is the outer layer of the hide that has not been sanded. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What type of leather has a velvet-like surface and is created by sanding the grain side?

<p>Nubuck leather</p> Signup and view all the answers

Genuine leather is considered the highest quality of leather available.

<p>False (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

________ leather is made from a layered structure that includes shredded leather fibers.

<p>Bonded</p> Signup and view all the answers

Match the type of leather with its description:

<p>Full-grain leather = Thick, with natural grain imperfections Top-grain leather = Sanded for a smooth and uniform texture Faux leather = Synthetic material designed to mimic real leather Suede leather = A type of leather with a soft, fuzzy surface</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following types of leather is known for being the least durable?

<p>Genuine leather (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Patented leather is known for its natural imperfections and textured surface.

<p>False (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

List two types of leather that are categorized as real leather.

<p>Full-grain leather and top-grain leather</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a distinctive feature of real leather when checked closely?

<p>Inconsistent pattern of pores (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Faux leather absorbs water just like real leather.

<p>False (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What does real leather smell like?

<p>Animal skin</p> Signup and view all the answers

When touched, real leather will feel a little bit __________ and uneven.

<p>rough</p> Signup and view all the answers

Match the following tests with their purpose:

<p>Examine the pores = To check the pattern consistency of the material Smell the leather = To identify the type of leather based on scent Touch the leather = To assess the texture and feel of the material Water test = To determine water absorption properties</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary characteristic of nubuck leather?

<p>It is created from the outer side of a hide (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Suede leather is made from the outer layer of animal hide.

<p>False (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What type of leather is known for retaining the natural grains of the original?

<p>Aniline leather</p> Signup and view all the answers

Patent leather has a ______ finish.

<p>glossy</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following types of leather is generally more affordable?

<p>Split leather (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Match the following types of leather with their characteristics:

<p>Suede = Soft, supple texture; crafted from underside Corrected grain leather = Sanded and buffed to remove imperfections Faux leather = Synthetic material that mimics real leather Patent leather = Glossy, shiny finish</p> Signup and view all the answers

Faux leather requires the same level of care as genuine leather.

<p>False (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the main advantage of patent leather over other types?

<p>It is highly durable and resistant to water and stains.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What happens to pull-up leather when it is stretched?

<p>It lightens in color and reveals lighter tones underneath. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

All real leather products are guaranteed to have perfect smooth surfaces.

<p>False (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

List two tests you can use to identify fake leather.

<p>Check the label, check the price.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Pull-up leather gets its name from the way it _____ when stretched.

<p>responds</p> Signup and view all the answers

Match the following identifiers with their description:

<p>Check the Label = Look for manufacturing details and material type Check the Price = High quality leather tends to be more expensive Examine the Pores = Real leather shows natural pore patterns Touch the Leather = Feel for flexibility and surface texture</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following is NOT a test for identifying fake leather?

<p>Check the Colors (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Fake leather typically has a unique and irregular surface texture.

<p>False (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the characteristic of real leather regarding its surface when touched?

<p>It wrinkles and has a unique texture.</p> Signup and view all the answers

Flashcards

Hammer

A shoemaking tool used for securing shoe parts, like the sole to the upper.

Shoe Knives

Tools for cutting leather, soles, and cardboard in shoemaking.

Clicker Cutting Machines

Factory machinery used to precisely cut shoe components using dies.

Sewing machine

Machine that joins cloth or leather parts together, powered by hand or electricity.

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Splitting machines

Machinery that thins materials, often used for leather and rubber.

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Shoe Lasting Machines

Machinery used for assembling the shoe upper and last.

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Awl

Shoemaking tool to stitch leather parts with various shapes.

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Lasting pliers

Tools used for tightening leather or faux upper during shoe assembly.

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Full-Grain Leather

The highest quality leather made from the outer layer of animal hide, with natural grain and texture, showing imperfections. It is prized for its durability and unique patina that develops over time.

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Top-Grain Leather

Leather that has been sanded and buffed to remove imperfections, resulting in a smoother surface. It is less distinctive than full-grain leather, but still durable and high-quality.

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Bonded Leather

A manufactured material with a layered structure, containing shredded leather fibers mixed with a binder. It is often used as a cheaper alternative to genuine leather.

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Genuine Leather

Leather made from real animal hides, but it is lower quality than full-grain and top-grain leather. Often used for less expensive products.

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Nubuck Leather

A type of top-grain leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, creating a soft, velvety surface. It is resistant to wear and can be white or colored.

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Split Leather

Leather that has been split into two layers, where the top layer is used for higher-grade leather and the lower, thinner layer is used for split leather.

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Corrected Grain Leather

Leather that has been treated to create a more uniform surface. It is less durable than full-grain leather and may feel less natural.

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Patent Leather

Leather that has been coated with a glossy finish. It often has a shiny, lacquered appearance.

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Suede Leather

Leather created from the underside ('flesh side') of the hide, known for its soft, velvety surface.

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Faux Leather

Synthetic material mimicking real leather, made from a polyurethane film applied to a fabric backing.

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Aniline Leather

Natural grain leather dyed with clear, transparent dyes, offering a soft and comfortable feel.

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What makes leather luxurious?

The quality of the leather comes from the hide's grain, with full-grain being top-tier, followed by top-grain and split leather.

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Faux Leather Feel

Faux leather feels more like plastic than real leather when touched or pressed, retaining its structure.

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Real Leather Pores

Real leather has an inconsistent pattern of pores, making it look less perfect.

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Fake Leather Pores

Fake leather has consistent, evenly spread pores with a repeating pattern, making it look too perfect.

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Real Leather Smell

Real leather has a distinct animal skin smell that cannot be replicated artificially.

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Real Leather Touch

Real leather feels slightly rough and uneven, it stretches and wrinkles like our own skin when pressed.

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Pull-Up Leather

A type of leather that lightens in color when stretched or pulled, revealing a lighter shade underneath. This effect is achieved through the application of special oils, waxes, or greases during the tanning process.

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What makes pull-up leather unique?

Pull-up leather is characterized by its distinctive aging and patina development. It gets its name from the way it responds when stretched or pulled, as it tends to lighten in color and reveal lighter tones underneath. This effect is achieved through the application of special oils, waxes or greases during the tanning process.

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Spotting Fake Leather: Label

Genuine leather is often proudly stated on the product label, while faux or synthetic leather will also be mentioned. Checking the label helps identify the type of leather you are buying and provides information about its manufacturing and care instructions.

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Spotting Fake Leather: Price

Full-grain leather, the highest quality, is generally much more expensive than faux or synthetic leather. Comparing prices can give you a clue about the leather type.

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Spotting Fake Leather: Texture

Real leather has a natural, uneven texture with visible imperfections like scratches, wrinkles, and creases. Faux leather, in contrast, has a smooth, uniform surface and pattern, often with a more artificial appearance.

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Spotting Fake Leather: Smell

Real leather has a distinct, natural smell, while faux leather often has a chemically-induced odor or no scent at all.

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Spotting Fake Leather: Water Test

A drop of water on real leather will absorb slowly and leave a damp spot, while faux leather might repell the water or show a water bead.

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Full-Grain Leather Quality

Full-grain leather is considered the highest quality because it's made from the top layer of animal hide, retaining its natural grain and texture, including imperfections. This makes it durable and develops unique patina over time.

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Study Notes

Hand Tools for Assembly

  • Hammers are essential for shoemaking.

    • Used for lasting, shaping, and securing shoe components.
    • Handle used to secure the sole to the upper.
  • Knives (Beta) are used for cutting leather, soles, and cardboard.

    • Can be used for other tasks.
  • Awls (Ditchoy) are used to stitch leather components together.

    • Come in various shapes and sizes.
  • Punchers are essential tools in shoemaking.

    • Serve multiple purposes, ensuring functionality and aesthetic appeal to shoe crafting.
  • Big needles are used for hand stitching.

    • Different types of needles are used for precise hand stitching.
  • Lasting pliers are used to tighten leather or faux uppers.

    • Durable, with a polished steel toe cap for practicality and versatility.
  • Scissors are specially designed for precisely cutting leather and other materials.

    • Ensuring clean edges is key for accurate shoe assembly and detailing.
  • Needle cutters are used for cutting threads, conveniently.

  • Tack removers are used for removing pinned tacks by pushing upward.

Machines for Assembly

  • Clicker Cutting machines are used in shoe factories.

    • These machines use cutting presses or clicker presses with cutting dies for each shoe pattern part.
    • New technology uses computer-controlled drag knife cutters.
  • Sewing machines join pieces of cloth or leather.

    • Can be hand-operated or electric.
  • Splitting machines split materials into thinner pieces.

    • Used by the automotive, rubber, plastic and leather goods industries, and in labs related to those industries.
  • Lasting Machines fasten the shoe upper to the last.

    • Faster than hand lasting.
  • Skiving Machines shave off the back part of leather to make it thinner.

    • Leather remains strong after skiving.
  • Scouring Machines roughen the surface of materials to improve adhesion.

    • Used to trim edges and smooth surfaces.
  • Stamping Machines use dies to make stamped shapes out of metal.

    • Used for different shoe metal shapes depending on the production complexity and production run size.

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