The History of Shoemaking and Sports Shoes

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10 Questions

What is the average number of pairs of shoes owned by a British woman?

17

How many pairs of shoes does the largest sport shoe factory in the UK produce daily?

3,500

What is the name of the tannery that supplies leather to New Balance?

Pittard's tannery

What is used to stabilize the protein in the rawhide during the tanning process?

Chromium sulfate

How many individual pieces are used to make the 576 classic leather trainer?

27

In what year did Joe Foster invent the running spike?

1895

What is the name of the renowned shoe design school in London?

Cordwainers College

Who is the historian that explains the history of trainers?

Ruth Goodman

What is the name of the shoe designed by the narrator at Cordwainers College?

Rio Rave

In what year did Reebok become a successful brand?

1980s

Study Notes

  • The average British man owns nine pairs of shoes, while the average British woman owns 17 pairs.
  • The largest sport shoe factory in the UK produces over 1.4 million shoes per year, with 3,500 pairs made daily.
  • The factory uses 140 miles of cotton thread and over 32 million individual stitches.
  • The factory produces over 30 different styles of shoes, with the 576 classic leather trainer being one of their biggest sellers.
  • The 576 classic leather trainer is made up of 27 individual pieces and has been in production for nearly 30 years.
  • The factory uses a combination of materials, including leather, polyester, and foam, with synthetic materials making up a significant portion of modern trainers.
  • New Balance gets their leather from Pittard's tannery in Somerset, which processes over 50,000 square feet of leather daily.
  • The tannery uses chromium sulfate to stabilize the protein in the rawhide, and the hides are treated with dye and chemicals to achieve the desired color and durability.
  • The leather is then processed, shaved to a consistent thickness, and treated with polyurethane to enhance wear and tear resistance.
  • The finished leather is graded for quality, with scratches and scars affecting its value.
  • The factory has 279 workers, divided into six teams, each capable of making any of the company's 30 trainer designs.
  • The workers are responsible for eight individual processes, from embroidery to sole fitting, to produce 444 pairs of shoes daily.
  • The factory has been producing shoes since 1982 and has a reputation for making high-performance running shoes and fashionable, colorful trainers.Here is a summary of the text:
  • England won the World Cup, and Billy is trying to make shoes, carefully cutting leather to minimize waste.
  • Billy's "skeleton" (off-cuts of leather) is thrown away, so every cut has to count to avoid wasting material.
  • Billy demonstrates his expertise in cutting leather, while the narrator struggles to cut out four pieces, wasting a lot of leather.
  • The narrator visits a factory where they make shoes, including a machine that cuts black polyester and foam for the soft cushioning inside the shoe.
  • Historian Ruth Goodman explains the history of trainers, which originated in Bolton, England, where Joe Foster invented the running spike in 1895.
  • Foster's innovation revolutionized running, and his company went on to produce a range of sports shoes.
  • In 1958, two of Foster's sons split off to form Reebok, which became a successful brand in the 1980s with the rise of aerobics and fitness.
  • Today, Reebok is owned by Adidas, and its retro 80s-inspired classic range is the biggest seller.
  • Back at the factory, the narrator is making their own shoes, starting with cutting out the parts, then assembling them with the help of factory workers.
  • The narrator visits the embroidery department, where a machine can embroider up to 15 pieces at a time.
  • Next, the narrator visits the auto-stitch department, where the different parts of the shoe are stitched together.
  • The narrator then visits the finishing department, where the final touches are added to the shoe.
  • The narrator designs their own shoe at Cordwainers College, a renowned shoe design school in London.
  • The students at Cordwainers College design shoes, considering factors like price, commerciality, and wearability.
  • The narrator chooses a design and materials for their shoe, including a Brazilian-inspired party shoe called "Rio Rave."
  • The students help the narrator make the shoe, including picking materials, choosing a last, and building the shoe from scratch.
  • The narrator visits a factory in Cumbria, where they make trainers with quirky British influences, such as a shoe that looks like a pub.
  • The narrator learns about the history of shoemaking, including the introduction of the sewing machine in the 19th century, which revolutionized the industry.
  • The narrator visits a shoemaker who still makes shoes by hand, using traditional techniques that date back to Roman times.
  • The narrator tries their hand at making a shoe the traditional way, but it takes much longer than using a machine.• In the 19th century, the introduction of machinery in the shoe-making industry led to an increase in productivity, but it did not result in unemployment, as men were still needed to perform various tasks in the process.

• In the late 1850s, a company could make around half a million pairs of shoes per year, but with the introduction of machines, this number increased to five million pairs per year just 10 years later.

• The population of Northampton, a shoemaking center, doubled over the next 40 years as a result of the industry's growth.

• The transition from cottage industry to factory production was difficult for shoemakers, as they had to adapt to a new way of working.

• At the New Balance shoe factory in Cumbria, a team of workers helps make a pair of leather trainers, showcasing the skills and craftsmanship required in the process.

• The factory uses a combination of manual and machine-based processes to produce high-quality shoes.

• The first step in making a pair of shoes is cutting out the leather pieces, which is done manually.

• The leather pieces are then reinforced and embroidered, followed by stitching to form the shoe upper.

• The next stage involves manual stitching to add cushioning to the shoe.

• The shoe is then molded to shape using a machine that stretches the leather upper around a mold, gluing it firmly into position.

• The entire process, from cutting to finishing, takes around 34 minutes to complete.

• The shoes produced at the factory are exported all over the world, including to high-street stores in the UK and fifth-avenue boutiques in New York.

• Cherry visits a ballet shoe factory in London, where 95 workers produce a quarter of a million pairs of shoes every year, supplying most of the world's ballet companies and top dancers.

• The production process at the ballet shoe factory has barely changed in 87 years and involves handmade shoes created using traditional techniques.

• Each maker has their own symbol, allowing dancers to identify who made their shoes.

• The shoes are created inside out, with the inner sole stapled to a last and placed onto a satin and cotton upper.

• The toes are reinforced with a special paste made from flour, water, and secret ingredients.

• The shoes are then stitched and turned right side out, with the pleats created using a pearl and twist method.

• A hammer is used to shape the point of the shoe, and the insole is pasted in before the final stitching and quality control.

• The entire process takes around 16 hours to complete.

• The Royal Ballet gets through 13,000 pairs of shoes per year, at a cost of £250,000, and each dancer customizes their own shoes for performance.

• Principal dancer Lauren Cuspetson demonstrates how she prepares her shoes for performance, including breaking them in, making them more malleable, and adding vital wool stitches for added traction.

• The quality of the shoe is critical to a dancer's performance, and it can make or break their ability to perform.

• At the trainer factory, Cherry learns about the importance of choosing the right footwear to prevent foot problems, which affect three-quarters of the population.

• Podiatrist Matthew Fitzpatrick explains that common ailments like bunions can be caused by tight-fitting footwear and can be managed by wearing the right shoes.

• Women are more susceptible to bunions due to high heels and pointy-toed shoes.

• Fungal infections like athlete's foot can be prevented by wearing breathable shoes and not wearing the same pair two days in a row.

• Shoe size is often incorrect, and people should get their feet measured at the end of the day when they are slightly swollen.

• The finished trainers are boxed up and taken to the distribution warehouse, where pallets are wrapped up and loaded into lorries for delivery.

• The factory produces 3,626 pairs of shoes per day, with a total retail value of over £250,000.

Explore the history of shoemaking, from its origins to modern-day factories producing high-performance sports shoes. Learn about the evolution of trainers, the craftsmanship involved in making shoes, and the importance of footwear in preventing foot problems.

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