Geofile for AQA Nelson Thornes 2008 - Wave Formation and Movement
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Questions and Answers

What type of waves are concentrated on the headlands and shape beaches?

Constructive/spilling waves

What causes wave energy to be lower in harbors and bays?

Blocking structures

How does longshore drift occur?

Higher layers of the wind move faster over the lower layer at an angle within the bays.

What type of waves are caused by the surface of the sea occurring within the bays?

<p>Low in height waves</p> Signup and view all the answers

What physical variable can influence the strength of the wind and the distance over which it blows?

<p>Sea bed topography</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the main purpose of jetties and harbor walls in the context of wave action?

<p>To shape beaches by removal, addition of sediment, and to slow, bend and break waves.</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for the circular motion of the wave that becomes more elliptical as the wave base drags?

<p>GeoFile Series 27 Issue 1 Physical variables</p> Signup and view all the answers

What system controls the appearance of the coastline and its components?

<p>Sink/store system</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for the movement of water down the beach after a wave breaks?

<p>Backwash</p> Signup and view all the answers

What drives the coastal system above and below the deposition zones to produce morphology?

<p>Transfers of coastal energy</p> Signup and view all the answers

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