Evolution of Indian Fashion Semester 4

History of Indian Fashion

• Ancient Indian fashion was rich in tradition, reflecting the diverse cultures, religions, and beliefs of the country.

The Indus Valley Civilization (3000 BCE to 1200 BCE)

• Clothing was simple and functional, made of cotton, wool, and silk.
• Men wore dhoti, a long piece of cloth wrapped around the waist and legs.
• Women wore saree-like garments known as antariya, usually dyed in bright colors and decorated with intricate patterns and motifs.
• Jewellery, including beads and bangles, was an important part of their attire.

Post-Vedic Era (1100-500 BCE)

• Luxurious fabrics were introduced, and head wraps became a distinct style amongst dynastic women.
• The Maurya and Gupta empires were two of the most influential dynasties in ancient India, spanning from 321 BCE to 550 CE.

Mughal Era

• The Sultanate Costume was a loose, long-flowing robe with a sash at the waist, sometimes made of brightly patterned cotton fabric.
• Turbans were worn by men, usually white in color, with fabric wound around the head many times.
• Intricate embroidery and embellishments were introduced during this period, shaping the aesthetics of Indian fashion.

Development of Saree and Salwar Kameez

• The saree has been worn in India for centuries, with its modern form evolving during the medieval period.
• Sarees were made of simple cotton fabric, but wealthier women wore silk sarees with jewels and detailed embroidery.
• The Mughals introduced new draping styles and embellishments like zardosi embroidery, adding to the beauty and sophistication of the saree.

British Colonization and Western Influence

• The British introduced Western-style clothing, which had a significant impact on the textile industry in India.
• Indian textiles like cotton, silk, and muslin continued to be in demand in Europe and America, sustaining the textile industry in India to some extent.

Swadeshi Movement

• The Swadeshi movement promoted Indian goods and products, resisting British colonialism and asserting Indian cultural and economic independence.
• There was a renewed interest in traditional Indian clothing styles, such as the saree, salwar kameez, and kurta pyjama, seen as symbols of Indian identity and cultural heritage.
• The Swadeshi movement led to the development of the khadi industry, producing hand-spun and hand-woven fabrics that were seen as more authentic and culturally significant than machine-made textiles.

Impact of the Swadeshi Movement on Indian Fashion

• The Swadeshi movement promoted a renewed interest in traditional clothing styles and local textile industries.
• Khadi became a symbol of patriotism and was used extensively to drive away from dependency on foreign styles and materials.
• The Nehru jacket was invented during this movement, and khadi went on to become an integral part of ethnic Indian wear.