Questions and Answers
What are chemical acids that join amino acids together end-to-end in long chains to form polypeptide chains?
peptide bonds
What are long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds?
polypeptide chains
What are made up of long, coiled chains of amino acids linked together end-to-end, like beads, by end bonds?
keratin proteins
What are strong chemical side bonds that are formed when sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined?
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_______________ solutions soften and swell the hair and open the cuticle.
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Once the ______________ is in the cortex, it breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction.
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What is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents?
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The addition of ammonium to _____________ acid produces ATG.
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_______________ hair with a strong, resistant cuticle layer needs the additional swelling and penetration that is provided by a stronger and more highly alkaline waving solution.
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_______________ hair, or hair with a damaged cuticle layer, is easily penetrated and could be damaged by a highly alkaline permanent waving solution.
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The alkalinity of the perm solution should correspond to the resistance, strength, and _____________ of the cuticle layer.
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What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotion?
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____________________ acid waves are acid-balanced and process more quickly. They also produce a firmer curl than true acid waves.
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What kind of waves create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the solution and speeds up processing?
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What type of waves are activated by an outside heat source like a conventional hooded dryer?
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The amount of processing time should be determined by the strength of the __________________, not necessarily how long the perm is processed.
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___________ hair is more fragile, easier to process, and more susceptible to damage.
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__________________ hair usually requires more processing than medium to fine hair and may also be more resistant to processing.
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Most processing takes ________ to __________ minutes.
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A properly processing permanent wave should break and rebuild approximately ________ percent of the hair's disulfide bonds.
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If too many ____________ bonds are broken, hair is too weak to hold a firm curl.
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Hair at the __________ is not as curly as ends, more processing time is required, and will make the hair curlier.
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What rebuilds broken disulfide bonds into their new shape?
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During neutralization stage one, if the hair is not properly ______________, the hydrogen peroxide in the neutralizer can react with waving lotion and cause the hair to lighten.
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An ______________ _____________ protein conditioner can be applied to the hair and dried under a warm dryer for five minutes or more prior to neutralization; this is beneficial to damaged hair.
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During neutralization stage two, thio neutralization rebuilds bonds by removing what?
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When performing a preliminary test curl, wrap one rod in each different area of the head (top, side, and _____________).
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What type of rods have a smaller circumference in the middle than on the ends?
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Straight rods have a consistent, equal ______________ along the entire length of the rod and produce a uniform curl along the entire strand.
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End papers AKA end wraps are absorbent papers used to control the _______________ of the hair when wrapping.
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What type of wrap uses two end papers, one placed under and one over the hair strand?
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What type of wrap uses one end paper placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped?
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What type of wrap uses one end paper folded in half over hair ends like an envelope?
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What are subsections of the panels into which the hair is divided for perming wrapping?
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Base placement refers to the position of the rod in relation to its ____________ section or base panel.
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What is determined by the angle at which hair is wrapped?
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During on base placement, the hair is wrapped at an angle of 45 degrees beyond _______________ to its base section.
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During half base placement hair is wrapped at a _________ degree angle perpendicular to its base section and the tool is positioned half off its base.
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During off base placement, hair is wrapped at a 45 degree angle below____________________ to its base section. The tool is positioned completely off its base section.
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Double rod wrap AKA piggyback wrap is used for what type of hair?
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Basic permanent waving is also known as a _______ __________ wrap.
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What type of permanent wrap have partings and bases that radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head?
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During bricklay permanent wrap, base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent what?
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What perming technique uses zig-zag partings to divide base sections?
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What type of perms are for clients who do not wish the entire head of hair to be curled?
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In order to make a smooth transition from the rolled section of the head to an unrolled section, use a ____________ tool for the last tool next to an ______________ section.
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Many men are looking for added ______________, fullness, style, and low maintenance that only a perm can provide.
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________________ leave a coating on the hair that may cause ____________ curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage.
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Study Notes
Chemical Texture Services
- Peptide bonds join amino acids to form long polypeptide chains, essential for protein structure.
- Polypeptide chains are formed by long sequences of amino acids linked via peptide bonds.
- Keratin proteins consist of coiled chains of amino acids, making up hair and providing structure.
- Disulfide bonds are strong connections formed by sulfur atoms in adjacent protein chains, crucial for hair's resilience.
- Alkaline solutions soften and swell hair, opening the cuticle for better product penetration.
- The waving solution can break disulfide bonds in the hair’s cortex through a reduction chemical reaction.
- Ammonium thioglycolate acts as the active reducing agent in alkaline perms.
- Thioglycolic acid is combined with ammonium to produce ammonium thioglycolate.
- Coarse hair benefits from stronger alkaline solutions due to its resistant cuticle layer.
- Porous hair is more susceptible to damage from highly alkaline solutions due to its compromised cuticle.
- The perm solution's alkalinity should align with the hair's porosity and cuticle strength for effective results.
- Glyceryl monothioglycolate is the active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions.
- Modern acid waves process more quickly and create firmer curls compared to traditional acid waves.
- Exothermic waves generate heat during the chemical reaction, enhancing processing speed.
- Endothermic waves require external heat sources, like hooded dryers, for activation.
- Processing time is guided by the solution's strength rather than duration, typically lasting 5 to 10 minutes.
- Fine hair is fragile, requiring less processing due to its susceptibility to damage.
- Coarse hair may require longer processing times and shows resistance to chemical actions.
- Properly processing a permanent wave reforms about 50% of the hair’s disulfide bonds for effective curl retention.
- Excessive breaking of disulfide bonds weakens hair, preventing it from holding curls.
- Hair at the scalp tends to be less curly than at the ends, needing more processing time for even curl formation.
- Thio neutralizers are used to rebuild disulfide bonds into their new shape post-treatment.
- If hair is not rinsed properly during neutralization, hydrogen peroxide in the neutralizer may bleach the hair.
- Applying an acidic liquid protein conditioner before neutralization can benefit damaged hair by providing extra moisture.
- Thio neutralization during stage two removes extra hydrogen atoms to help reform the hair structure.
- When performing a preliminary test curl, use different sections of the head for varied results, including the nape.
- Concave rods create curls with a smaller middle circumference compared to the ends.
- Straight rods maintain a consistent diameter to produce uniform curls across the hair strand.
- End papers, or end wraps, control the ends of the hair while wrapping for perming.
- Double flat wraps involve two end papers, securing the hair strand fully.
- Single flat wraps utilize one end paper on top of the hair being wrapped.
- Bookend wraps are made using one end paper folded over the hair ends like an envelope.
- Base sections refer to subsections into which the hair is divided for perm wrapping.
- Base placement relates to the positioning of the rod in comparison to the base section of hair.
- The angle of hair wrapping determines the base placement and curl definition.
- On base placement requires wrapping hair at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to the base section.
- Half base placement wraps hair at a 90-degree angle to its base section, with the tool placed halfway off.
- Off base placement wraps hair at a 45-degree angle below perpendicular, fully removing the tool from the base.
- A double rod or piggyback wrap is specifically designed for extra long hair.
- Basic permanent waving is also known as straight set wrap, using a consistent approach throughout.
- Curvature permanent wraps adapt partings that follow the head's shape for a natural look.
- Bricklay permanent wraps offset base sections to minimize splits, creating a seamless flow.
- Weave technique involves zig-zag partings for varied texture in perming.
- Partial perms target specific sections for clients desiring selective curling.
- A large tool can aid in smoothing transitions between rolled and unrolled hair sections.
- Many men seek perms for added texture, fullness, and low maintenance styling options.
- Metallic salts can coat hair, potentially leading to uneven curls, discoloration, or breakage.
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Description
Test your knowledge on chemical texture services in cosmetology with this quiz. Focus on important terms such as peptide bonds and polypeptide chains that are essential in understanding hair chemistry. Perfect for students preparing for exams or practicing their knowledge in this chapter.