Supplier Quality Manual SQM V08 PDF

Supplier Quality Manual Contents Supplier Quality Manual Version 08 Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 1  Supplier Quality Manual Contents...

Supplier Quality Manual Contents Supplier Quality Manual Version 08 Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 1  Supplier Quality Manual Contents Supplier Quality Manual Information for 3rd party Laboratories: Procedures & Instructions Introduction C&A Authorized Laboratories C&A In-House Test Methods Definitions & Abbreviations Testing Details for Physical Tests & Performance Tests Updates & Revisions Quality Physical Enhancement Requirements Product Safety Chemical Color Manual Initiative (QEI) Apparel, Requirements Requirements Fabric Accessories Requirements and Home Textiles Composition Fabric Footwear Performance C&A Care Technical Labelling Manual Claims Instructions Manual Requirements Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 2  Supplier Quality Manual Introduction Contents Introduction Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 3  Supplier Quality Manual Introduction Contents Introduction Supplier Quality Manual update The 8th revision of the Supplier Quality Manual was primarily intended to make necessary Through the C&A Due Diligence program, we do reserve the right to test product prior and/or changes to requirements and test methods. after shipment to verify compliance. Detailed information about updates done can be found in Updates & Revision. In order to ensure compliance with the standards it is imperative that all your suppliers of The most important updates took place as follows: components for the manufacture of C&A merchandise are aware of our, and therefore, your requirements. You are strongly advised to proactively use C&A Authorized ISO 17025 Fabric Technical Manual added accredited laboratories and ensure your suppliers also have test reports available to Quality Enhancement Initiative (QEI) chapter updated demonstrate compliance with this Supplier Quality Manual. Physical Requirements: pilling assessment and C&A In-House Test Methods updated Physical Testing Matrices updated (separate documents on GIN) Chemical Requirements: Requirements not covered in the Supplier Quality Manual Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances (PFAS) test methods updated Natural rubbers are banned to use This Manual is not a stand-alone document. It must be used in combination with the Chemical Testing Matrix for fabrics updated: Processes/Procedures described on the GIN site, with specific instructions received from C&A, tests are updated and Oeko-Tex 100 exemption added for some specific tests etc.. Disperse Dyes test has been removed Product Safety: C&A expects that our suppliers also keep up to date with applicable EU laws and restrictions on All references to GPSD were replaced with GPSR and text was updated where needed an ongoing basis. “OK to Design”-Table was reworked Color Manual: Products not covered in the scope of this manual include without being limited to: Information about C&A Color Self-Approval Program included Electronics Garment supplier’s responsibility updated to ensure color matching of all components food contact products stationary All requirements set in this Supplier Quality Manual are valid and legally binding for C&A candles/candle holders orders written from 01st May 2024 onwards. medical devices If you are at all unsure about any content, please contact your QMTS team or the Team in cosmetics charge of the concerned section for guidance and support. household products protective face masks Important notes ski glasses/goggles, ski helmets C&A has legal obligations to ensure that each product sold in C&A stores is safe, legally snorkels, diving masks compliant and meets the quality expectations of our customers. C&A products must not cause surface swim goggles damage to other goods e.g.. by loose fibers or color bleeding. Durable antistatic finishing is high visibility articles mandatory for C&A products excluding water-repellent, water-proof and water-resistant materials. It is the responsibility of the Suppliers to ensure compliance with any applicable laws, Lack of compliance under any aspect will be regarded as defect of merchandise. regulations and/or relevant standards. Additionally, where any safety aspect is not covered by any sector specific laws, regulations and/or relevant standards, such products must comply As a valued C&A Supplier it is your responsibility to be fully aware of the content of this manual, with the GPSR. Information about requirements can be provided upon request. and to comply with all requirements for products supplied to C&A. In case of any doubt or questions, please contact your QMTS team or the Team in charge of An accurate and proven due diligence program will provide security to you in regard to the concerned products for guidance and support at the earliest possible point of time. compliance with applicable EU legislation. Please note that deliberate or negligent imports or distribution of goods into the EU containing illegal substances is considered as criminal offence. Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 4  Supplier Quality Manual Introduction Contents Introduction continued Sample and Record Retention Traceability The GPSR places specific obligations on C&A to keep technical documentation and information Product Tracking Information for tracing the origin of product, together with a requirement to be able to respond to requests Tracking information for a product is needed so that C&A can identify accurately the source for information from Market Surveillance Authorities in appropriate detail and timescales. This of any product, the member state where the product is placed on the market and the information is to be provided "on request" in a language which can be easily understood by the location of final distribution to the consumer. The requirement is for C&A to be able to locate MSAs. The following specific pieces of information need to be recorded in the PDP (Product ALL products in case of need and be able to withdraw that product from sale. Data Package - technical file) for each product: Product Identification 1. Product identifier (USIM). The product or label (or packaging if the product itself cannot be marked) must be marked 2. A general description of the product and its essential properties relevant for assessing the with a product reference and batch as appropriate. product's safety. C&A's product identification system provides a Unique Style Identification Marker (USIM) on 3. Identification of risks, and an analysis of the possible risks related to the product and the the product, where the nature and/or size of the product allows it, such that a product solutions adopted to eliminate or mitigate such risks. presenting a risk can be distinguished from any similar product in which the risk is not 4. Results of any tests conducted by the manufacturer / supplier or by another party on his present. This will allow tracking and withdrawal or recall of the smallest number of items in behalf. the case of corrective action being required. 5. A list of any Standards (etc..) that have been applied or other sources relied upon to assess USIM requirements for products with a composition/care instructions label safety. Garments and products which carry an attached composition / care instructions label 6. Product Sourcing Information: must have the USIM marked on the label. This identification must be easily visible and legible for consumers. a) Product identifier, There are some exceptions: please refer to table Product Exceptions. b) Supplier (manufacturer) name & address, USIM requirements for specific products c) Country of manufacture. (as declared at import) It is also mandatory to have the USIM number on the below indicated products, as 7. In the case of Toys and PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) a production sample must specified in the below table. also be kept and securely marked and referenced to its PDP (Product Data Package - In case garments are made out of different components (e.g.. trouser with belt / braces) the technical file). USIM needs to be indicated within the main product (e.g.. trouser).The USIM does not need to This documentation is to be retained for a period of 10 years. be indicated additionally within the component (e.g.. belt). For Toys and PPE the applicable Directive resp. Regulation requires records and a production Important remark for Toys: sample to be kept for not less than 10 years after product has been placed on the market. When sold under the C&A name and brand the above rules apply. All suppliers are required to provide information for inclusion in these records and retain such When sold under the supplier’s name and brand the supplier’s USIM is sufficient. information themselves for an equivalent period. Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 5  Supplier Quality Manual Introduction Contents Introduction continued PRODUCT USIM LOCATION QEI Products Sunglasses / Reading Glasses within frame or temple C&A‘s Quality Enhancement Initiative. Watches product (backside of watch) Umbrellas material composition label Products within this program show a long-lasting quality with satisfactory appearance and good Pacifier Chain material composition label hand feel after a pre-defined number of washing, drying and ironing cycles. Wallet embossed in product or material composition label This includes predefined circular knitted, flat knitted and woven products. Laptop Cover material composition label Gift Box printed on product Bow Tie material composition label Performance Claims Belts embossed in product or material composition label Shoes embossed in product or material composition label This chapter consolidates important quality standards which must be followed for products which are labelled with specified Performance Claims. Bandeau material composition label Bag embossed in product or material composition label It deals with all TECHNICAL ICONS which can be used individually or in specific combination with one another for ready-made products. The technical icons are based on fabric and construction Organic Bags (Shopping Bags) material composition label properties. Toys (soap bubbles, dolls, plush toys, music instruments, music box, skull ball...) embossed in product or material composition label In this chapter, it is defined which tests are mandatory and which requirements must be fulfilled before an icon is used. Dress Up (considered as a toy) material composition label Pacifier Pal (considered as a toy) material composition label A table provides detailed information about each technical icon, the test method to be used, the respective requirement and some further information. Baby Doudou / cuddle blanket (considered as a toy) material composition label Bibs (single product) material composition label PRODUCT EXCEPTIONS Reversible accessories (beanies …) Exception for certain products : Jewelry Where the product does not allow a sew- Hair accessories (alice bands, hair bands. clips, fake hair...) in label or embossment of the merchandise the USIM is not required as Key rings per below table. However, this exception Nail file for the below products, does not exclude the legal obligation to keep technical Shower cap documentation and information for Socks / panty hose / tights / knee highs tracing the origin of these products. Cufflink Tie clip Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 6  Supplier Quality Manual Introduction Contents Introduction continued Color Manual Fabric Requirements The primary objective of the color manual is to provide guidelines of industry best practice The Fabric Requirements are intended to validate the performance of the fabrics after the procedures for both visual and digital color specification, communication and control. The aim final production treatment (e.g.. final washing, impregnation, etc..). However, they can also be is to streamline the processes for color communication and approvals between C&A and our used as a guide for product development so that the testing can be done earlier in the suppliers, improving color accuracy and precision whilst reducing lead-times and costs. process to ensure the final product complies. C&A are specifying Pantone, Coloro and C&A technical color libraries of textiles color Please refer to the Fabric Test Matrix available on GIN site for mandatory testing plan. standards, both visual swatches and digital color QTX file data. These are in operation with C&A Color Team. Where Pantone/Coloro/C&A colors are specified for color matching of shades the dyers Requirements for Apparel, should use the QTX digital color standard. This will enable dyers to start color matching Accessories and Home Textiles immediately and provide better consistency and accuracy of color. C&A provided suppliers with a digital pass/fail tolerance of acceptability and expects dyers to submit copy of digital These requirements are combined in one chapter and valid for ready-made-products after color difference analysis. Both leading spectrophotometer providers Datacolor and Xrite can the final production treatment (e.g.. industrial washing, dyeing, etc..). However, the provide the C&A approved report template. requirements can also be used as a guide for product development so that the testing can be Each supplier is responsible for informing all their mills and subcontractors about the content done earlier in the process to ensure the final product complies. of the manual and requirements and to ensure they comply. Note: Some requirements apply only to certain types of fabrics, specific materials or product The approved labdip is a guide that bulk production should be achievable. Visual color groups. Therefore, please check carefully all comments and notes to avoid over/under evaluation alone should only be used where color measurement is not possible. testing. Always check with your QMTS colleague/contact if you are unsure. It is essential for C&A to achieve speed to market. C&A aims to conduct digital and visual Please refer to the Apparel + Accessories Test Matrix available on GIN site for mandatory color audits on mills and suppliers. The best mills will be granted self approval privileges testing plan. further reducing lead times and costs for all supply chain partners. Fabric Technical Manual Footwear Manual The aim of Fabric Technical Manual is to provide a guidance to the supply chain on the This C&A Footwear Manual has been created in partnership with Footwear Industry experts process controlling of fabric manufacturing to ensure the fabric to be complied with C&A from SGS to detail footwear performance specifications on shoe, materials and individual requirements. The process controlling starts from right raw material selection, the activity components. with in-housed raw materials before production, research and development, bulk production, It covers a generic whole shoe specification, minimum recommended testing by shoe type production process monitoring, testing, etc.. construction, guidance for material and component suppliers and information on footwear Mill and supplier are ultimate responsible to ensure right quality product as well as this manual labelling and sizing. will assist as a guidance to ensure the material processing is aligned with C&A expectations. All footwear must comply with at least the minimum requirements set out in this manual. The fabric technical manual suggests the standard format of Fabric Technical Data Sheet (FTDS) as well as the standard format of conducting pre-production meeting. These tools are In certain circumstances, specific footwear types may not require all tests whilst others may quite critical for the process controlling and ensure right fabric quality. require additional tests. Where appropriate, these will be detailed by your C&A contact. Throughout the whole process it is important to be transparent with the stakeholders of the supply chain and meet the requirements of C&A. Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 7  Supplier Quality Manual Introduction Contents Introduction continued Product Safety Requirements Chemical Requirements (RSL & MRSL) Even though many areas are covered, some aspects may require additional research. New The Chemical Requirements aim to ensure that product related consumer and environment fashion trends, new techniques developed for the textile industry and some grey areas may safety requirements are being adhered to throughout the product life cycle. indeed require a specific risk assessment or data collection. QMTS will support other Departments to address these needs as early as possible in design and development C&A has adopted the AFIRM RSL. It has to be used as a reference for limits and for testing processes. methods of restricted substances. Of course, the compliance with Safety Requirements is of prime importance: These RSL Requirements are mandatory, and C&A fully expects and requires that all suppliers comply with these requirements, which form part of contractual relationship. The Product Safety Requirements are mandatory for all C&A products. The AFIRM RSL is available in several languages on the AFIRM site: http://www.afirm- The conformance with the EU General Product Safety Regulation 2023/988 in its latest group.com/afirm-rsl/ version is mandatory Note: AFIRM is the Apparel and Footwear International RSL Management Working Group, Through inherently safe and reliable designs as well as capable and controlled processes established in 2004 and managed by several major Global/Regional Brands. AFIRM’s mission is C&A aims to ensure product safety excellence to reduce the use and impact of harmful substances in the apparel and footwear supply chain. It is the responsibility of all suppliers to ensure that their product is manufactured, packed, Beside the AFIRM RSL requirements, C&A has a few additional restrictions for its products. delivered and presented in accordance with C&A’s Product Safety Requirements These restrictions are described in chapter 3. Additional C&A Chemical Requirements. For questions related to these requirements, to request new standards or if you need In order to ensure full compliance with these standards it is imperative that all component support, please contact your QMTS representative. suppliers for the manufacture of C&A merchandise are made aware of these requirements and fully comply with them. We recommend being proactive in seeking professional advice about how to test your product, how to set up procedures to check that the raw materials you receive do comply with the required standards. A sole written instruction, without a controlling procedure in place has been proven not to be sufficient. You must keep records of your findings when testing your raw materials, and not deal with any supplier who cannot, or will not, meet the necessary standards. In addition, C&A acknowledges Bluesign® and Oeko-Tex®-STeP (Sustainable Textile Production) certification as an example of good manufacturing practice. Chapter 8. MANUFACTURING RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE LIST (MRSL) covers the adoption of the ZDHC MRSL Program. The industry, with ZDHC as its enabler, is herewith addressing hazardous chemicals holistically through a common lens. With the MRSL, C&A and its supply chain partners have an aligned component on common standards for input chemistry. Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 8  Supplier Quality Manual Authorized Labs Contents Authorized Labs Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 9  Supplier Quality Manual Authorized Labs Contents All tests (physical, chemical, safety and footwear) must be carried out by a C&A authorized Laboratory. Besides these, any other lab than listed below must be ISO/IEC 17025 accredited for the tests and can only be used after written approval from C&A’s Quality & Safety Standard Team. This authorization of 3rd party labs covers only testing. Other services as inspections are not impacted by this list. C&A suppliers can undergo the C&A Supplier In-House Laboratory (SIHL) Certification Program to get approved. QMTS needs to be contacted by interested supplier. C&A Authorized 3rd Party Laboratories for all product categories: mandatory for suppliers C&A – Authorized Countries Laboratories Bangladesh Pakistan India Sri Lanka China Hong Kong Korea Taiwan Thailand Singapore Myanmar Indonesia Cambodia Vietnam Turkey Egypt Germany Italy UK Bureau Veritas Group √ √ √ √ √ - √ √ - √ - - - √ √ - √ √ - Intertek Group √ √ - √ √ √ √ - √ √ √ √ √ - √ - - √ - SGS Group √ - √ - √ √ - √ √ - √ √ √ √ √ - √ - √ Symbols: “√” = Authorized laboratories per country “-” = not accepted laboratories per country (these test reports will not be accepted) C&A Authorized 3rd Party Laboratories for all product categories: for C&A internal use only Additional C&A - Authorized Laboratories Country Corresponding homepage PFI - Pruef- und Forschungsinstitut Pirmasens Worldwide Authorized Oeko-Tex Laboratories Worldwide Oeffentliche Pruefstelle Hochschule Niederrhein Germany TUEV Rheinland Group Germany Eurofins WKS Labservice GmbH Germany Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 10  Supplier Quality Manual C&A In-House Test Methods Contents C&A In-House Test Methods Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 11  Supplier Quality Manual C&A In-House Test Methods Contents C&A In – House Test Methods - Table of Content CA TM 01 – Washing Performance Test CA TM 02.1 – Durability Wash Test CA TM 02.2 – QEI Durability Wash Test (knits) CA TM 02.3 – QEI Durability Wash Test (wovens) Annex of CA TM 01,02.1,02.2,02.3 : Measuring Sections for Determination of Dimensional Stability CA TM 03 - Bra Wire Puncture Test CA TM 05 - Propensity for fiber shedding from long pile fabric CA TM 06 - Static Cling Test CA TM 08 Umbrella Durability Test CA TM 09 Umbrella Manual Inversion Test Withdrawn : CA TM 04 – Color Fastness to Benzoyl Peroxide CA TM 07 – Durability Test of Hook and Bar fastener Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 12  Supplier Quality Manual C&A In-House Test Methods Contents CA TM 01 - Washing Performance Test Washing Performance Test for the assessment of CA TM 01 Dimensional Stability, Spirality and Appearance after domestic washing on ready-made garments + fabrics: one washing-drying-ironing cycle Creation Date: 24/Feb/2016 Revision Date: 14/Feb/2024 version 7 Created by: QMTS Revision No.: 6 (replacement of CA TM 01 of 30/March/2023) Purpose of Test This test method defines the procedure of Washing Performance Testing for ready-made garments and fabrics and reflects the washing behavior and appearance after one domestic washing-drying-ironing care cycle. Scope This test method delivers clear indications about product quality and performance. The testing parameters are based on the quality requirements and test methods stated in this SQM and are applicable for all washable products. This procedure ensures alignment in Washing Performance Testing of C&A Authorized Laboratories. Definitions The procedure simulates the behavior of garments and fabrics after one domestic care cycle inclusive drying and ironing referring the care instruction on sew-in-label. It includes beside the evaluation of dimensional stability and spirality the detailed assessment of appearance with information about color change, cross staining, fabric surface, workmanship, functionality etc.. The performance of specimen before washing is also considered. Once dried and ironed with the indicated method the garment /fabric is examined visually. Ratings and measurements are taken according to the table shown below. Norms and Equipment For standard wash tests a WASCATOR is to be used. The testing details are described below under OPTION A: WASCATOR. Where specified or where a Wascator is not available a Household Washing Machine can be used optionally. These testing details are described below under OPTION B: HOUSEHOLD WASHING MACHINE. In addition to these instructions the following ISO standards and the relevant equipment need to be applied for both options. Annex 1 of CA TM 01, 02.1, 02.2, 02.3: Measuring Sections for Determination of Dimensional Stability ISO 3759 Preparation of fabrics and garments in tests for determination of dimensional change ISO 5077 Method for determination of dimensional change in washing and drying ISO 6330 Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing (as reference) ISO 16322-2 Determination of Spirality/Skew Movement - Woven & knitted fabrics - Method A ISO 16322-3 Determination of Spirality - Woven & knitted garments - Method B ISO 105-A02 Grey scale for assessment of change in color under artificial light D65 ISO 105-A03 Grey scale for assessment of staining under artificial light D65 ISO 12945-4 Pilling/fuzzing/matting assessment of washed surface with EMPA photo standards under defined light and angle. ISO 15487 smoothness grades of fabrics and seams for products with performance claims: “non-iron” and “easy iron” Chapter “Testing Details” defines which ISO standards and test instructions must be followed. Conditioning & Testing Atmosphere No special atmospheric conditions are required for the assessment. Test Specimen Two identical specimens are required, one to be cleansed and one as the reference sample for the assessment. This reference sample remains in its original state. The control of both specimen before washing is mandatory. In case of observed problems, the wash test needs to be discussed with the applicant. Sample Preparation For tests of fabrics and garments ISO 3759 to be followed. Marks for measuring sections of apparel need to be added on shell material ref. Annex 1. The Multifiber (Type CLY with Lyocell) is attached for indication of color staining. The control of all specimen before washing is mandatory. In case of observed issues, the wash test needs to be discussed with the applicant. Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 13  Supplier Quality Manual C&A In-House Test Methods Contents CA TM 01 - Washing Performance Test continued Washing Performance Test Procedure: WASHING Washing Performance Test Procedure: DRYING + IRONING + RELAXATION WASHING Option A: WASCATOR (software settings according to ISO 6330:2021) DRYING: as claimed Machine: in case tumbling is foreseen, usage of a Household Tumble Drier ref. ISO 6330:2021 program according to Care Instruction on sew-in-label; additional care information to be followed (e.g.. “inside out”) drying process care symbol type of product drying method normal agitation: 3N (30°C), 4N (40°C), 6N (60°C), high spin (800 r/min) tumble drying hot setting / mild agitation: 3M (30°C), 4M (40°C), 6M (60°C), low spin (500 r/min) with normal where claimed max. temperature Program: in general drying very mild (gentle) agitation: 3G (30°C), 4G (40°C), low spin (500 r/min) temperature 80°C without stretching machine hand wash: 3H (30°C), low spin (500 r/min) tumble drying cool setting / max. the garment In case the Wascator program for machine hand wash 3H (30°C) is not available, these samples need with low where claimed temperature to be washed in a Household washing machine (see Option B). temperature 60°C where tumbling claimed: ISO 6330:2021, detergent 2 IEC (A*), non-phosphate, with optical line drying complete loading for optic white where claimed brightener and with enzymes + TAED + Sodium Percarbonate, as (on hanger) of washing to be (with optical brightening agent): defined, in total: 20g per cycle added into do not tumble dry Detergent: ISO 6330:2021, detergent 3 ECE (A), non-phosphate, without + care text: flat drying tumbler for all colors incl. non-optic white, where claimed optical brightener + TAED + Sodium Percarbonate, as defined, in (natural drying) off-white, pale shades: dry flat total: 20g per cycle for machine hand wash, wool: PERWOLL liquid (Henkel), 60ml per cycle IRONING: as claimed 2 kg per cycle: samples + make weights = 2 kg Loading: Machines: Hand Iron with steam function make weights: ISO 6330:2021, Type III, 50g weights made of 100% PES HOUSEHOLD WASHING MACHINE ironing process care symbol type of product ironing method WASHING Option B: European brand MIELE/BOSCH, front loader, spinning cycles of 600 and 1.200 rpm required max. sole plate program according to Care Instruction on sew-in-label; hot ironing Program: where claimed temperature: additional care information to be followed (e.g.. “inside out”) with steam 200°C Spinning cycles: see below table max. sole plate in general ironing for optic white warm ironing Persil UNIVERSAL Powder (Henkel); 20g per wash cycle where claimed temperature: without stretching (with optical brightening agent): with steam 150°C the garment Detergent: for all colors incl. non-optic white, Persil COLOR Powder (Henkel), 20g per wash cycle off-white, pale shades: max. sole plate cool ironing for machine hand wash, wool: PERWOLL liquid (Henkel), 60ml per cycle where claimed temperature: without steam 110°C 2 kg per cycle: samples + make weights = 2 kg Loading: Make weights: ISO 6330:2021, Type III, 50g weights made of 100% PES do not iron where claimed - washing process: care symbol: final time for complete wash program spinning wash cycle measure the sample before washing; and temperature [rpm] for products with wash as claimed; dry as claimed for 4 Special Ironing additional care hours in standard atmosphere normal agitation 1200 approx. 80-100 min where claimed “iron whilst damp” instruction "iron (20°C/65%); iron the wet sample as whilst damp" claimed (=whilst damp) and measure mild agitation 1200 approx. 60-80 min it after 30 minutes relaxation very mild (gentle) agitation 600 approx. 40-60 min Relaxation: after ironing the product must relax for 30 min before measurement takes place + care text: cold hand wash machine washable cold 600 approx. 35-45 min Performance For products with Performance Claims “non-iron”, “easy iron”, “water repellent” and “durable water (by using the washing machine) 30°C Claims: repellent” follow also SQM chapters “Performance Claims” and “Testing Details”. Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 14  Supplier Quality Manual C&A In-House Test Methods Contents CA TM 01 - Washing Performance Test continued Assessment after 1 washing-drying-ironing Dimensional Stability + Spirality + Appearance (where ironing is claimed, assessment only after ironing, except “non-iron” performance claim) Assessment of Dimensional Stability: PASS / FAIL Dimensional stability in cm and % after 1 care cycle (single values as requested in Annex 1) ref. C&A product requirement Assessment of Spirality: PASS / FAIL Spirality in cm and % after 1 care cycle ref. C&A product requirement Assessment of Appearance after 1 care cycle: PASS (Satisfactory) FAIL (Unsatisfactory) Color change of all visible components as shell, lining, collar, waistband etc.. grade 4 or better less than grade 4 (grey scale ISO 105 A02, artificial light D65) denim: grade 3-4 or better denim: less than grade 3-4 Cross staining on all components grade 4-5 or better less than grade 4-5 (grey scale ISO 105 A03, artificial light D65) Pilling/fuzzing/matting grade of washed face side grade 3-4 or better less than grade 3-4 (by use of EMPA photo standards under defined light and angle ref. ISO 12945-4) Loss of fibers of all products incl. these with hairy, raised , brushed face side and/or inside no fiber contamination of wash load or washing machine; fiber contamination of wash load or of washing machine; (e.g.. hoody with brushed inside, flat knits, etc..) slight contamination of tumbler filter obvious contamination of tumbler filter Bright edges on face side (on button panels, collar, waistband, seams, etc..) no changes changes observed Wash creases on face side (crinkles, stripes) no changes changes observed Wavy waistband, collar, neckband, cuff etc.. no changes changes observed Print Stability (main prints, back neck print, print on sew-in label, etc..) no changes changes observed Loss of pile in mm² no changes changes observed Fraying of fabric and trims no changes changes observed Detachment of fastenings & trims (cord ends, tipping, etc..) no changes changes observed Delamination of fused components no changes changes observed Material breaks, holes in fabric, yarn loops no changes changes observed Opening of seams in mm max. 4mm seam opening more than 4mm seam opening Function of zipper /closure (easy to open; zipper components, closures properly fixed) function ok incorrect function Corrosion/damage to trim, scratching of coatings, change of surface color, etc.. no changes changes observed Synthetic filling or down/feather filling uneven; fiber/feather migration no changes changes observed Handfeel no changes changes observed Other observations compared to unwashed reference sample (e.g.. change of brushed inside) no changes changes observed less than grade 4-5: for products with contrast colors grade 4-5 or better: for products with contrast colors Staining assessment of attached Multifiber less than grade 4: for all other products grade 4 (PA: 2-3) or better: for all other products: CF to washing + CF to water on reference sample required Test Report: must include all product and testing details incl. care instructions; test results for dimensional stability, spirality and appearance assessment with single PASS/FAIL decisions, any information about observed issues before and during testing. Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 15  Supplier Quality Manual C&A In-House Test Methods Contents CA TM 02.1 – Durability Wash Test Durability Wash Test for the assessment of CA TM 02.1 Dimensional Stability, Spirality and Appearance after domestic washing on ready-made garments + fabrics: up to 5 washing-drying-ironing cycles Creation Date: 24/Feb/2016 Revision Date: 14/Feb/2024 version 7 Created by: QMTS Revision No.: 6 (replacement of CA TM 02.1 of 30/March/2023) Purpose of Test This test method defines the Durability Washing procedure for ready-made garments and fabrics and reflects the long-term appearance with focus on product life cycle and customer's satisfaction. This method describes the procedure and assessment up to 5 washing-drying-ironing care cycles. Depending on applicant's request the procedure can be extended. Scope This test method delivers clear indications about product quality and performance. The testing parameters are based on the quality requirements and test methods stated in this SQM and are applicable for all washable products. This procedure ensures alignment in Durability Wash Tests of C&A Authorized Laboratories. Definitions The procedure simulates the behavior of garments and fabrics after 1st, 3rd and 5th domestic care cycle inclusive drying and ironing referring the care instruction on sew-in-label. It includes the evaluation of dimensional stability, spirality and the detailed assessment of appearance with information about color change, cross staining, fabric surface, workmanship, functionality etc.. The performance of specimen before washing is also considered. Once dried and ironed with the indicated method the garment/fabric is examined visually after 1st, 3rd and 5thcare cycle. Ratings and measurements are taken according to the table shown below. Norms and Equipment For standard wash tests a WASCATOR is to be used. The testing details are described below under OPTION A: WASCATOR. Where specified or where a Wascator is not available a Household Washing Machine can be used optionally. These testing details are described below under OPTION B: HOUSEHOLD WASHING MACHINE. In addition to these instructions the following ISO standards and the relevant equipment need to be applied for both options. Chapter “Testing Details” defines which ISO standards and test instructions must be followed. Annex 1 of CA TM 01, 02.1, 02.2, 02.3: Measuring Sections for Determination of Dimensional Stability ISO 105-A02 Grey scale for assessment of change in color under artificial light D65 ISO 3759 Preparation of fabrics and garments in tests for determination of dimensional change ISO 105-A03 Grey scale for assessment of staining under artificial light D65 ISO 5077 Method for determination of dimensional change in washing and drying ISO 12945-4 Pilling/fuzzing/matting assessment of washed surface with EMPA photo standards under ISO 6330 Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing (as reference) defined light and angle ISO 16322-2 Determination of Spirality/Skew Movement - Woven & knitted fabrics - Method A ISO 15487 smoothness grades of fabrics and seams for products with performance claims: “non-iron” and ISO 16322-3 Determination of Spirality - Woven & knitted garments - Method B “easy iron” (see chapter “Testing Details”) Conditioning & Testing Atmosphere No special atmospheric conditions are required for the assessment. Test Specimen For 5 care cycles 2 identical specimens are required; 1 sample for washing, 1 as the reference sample for the assessment. This reference sample remains in its original state. The control of all specimen before washing is mandatory. In case of observed problems, the wash test needs to be discussed with the applicant Sample Preparation For tests of fabrics and garments ISO 3759 to be followed. Marks for measuring sections of need to be added on shell material ref. Annex 1. Multifiber (Type CLY with Lyocell) is attached for indication of color staining. Durability Test Procedure Following the indicated care-instruction all below defined procedures for washing, drying and ironing need to be carried out for 5 care cycles. Assessment of dimensional stability, spirality and appearance takes place after 1st, 3rd and 5th care cycle in comparison to the reference sample. Remove the multifiber (Type CLY with Lyocell) for assessment after 1st washing. Line and flat drying is requested after 1st, 3rd and 5th washing (no drying after 2nd and 4th). For products which are labelled with tumble drying, tumbling of complete wash load is mandatory after each washing. Where ironing is claimed, ironing is mandatory after 1st, 3rd and 5th drying before the assessment takes place, except “non-iron”. Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 16  Supplier Quality Manual C&A In-House Test Methods Contents CA TM 02.1 – Durability Wash Test continued Durability Wash Test Procedure: WASHING Durability Wash Test Procedure: DRYING + IRONING + RELAXATION WASHING Option A: WASCATOR (software settings according to ISO 6330:2021) DRYING: as claimed program according to Care Instruction on sew-in-label; additional care information to be followed Machine: in case tumbling is foreseen, usage of a Household Tumble Drier ref. ISO 6330:2021 (e.g.. “inside out”) drying process care symbol type of product drying method normal agitation: 3N (30°C), 4N (40°C), 6N (60°C) , high spin (800 r/min) mild agitation: 3M (30°C), 4M (40°C), 6M (60°C), low spin (500 r/min) tumble drying with hot setting / max. Program: where claimed very mild (gentle) agitation: 3G (30°C), 4G (40°C), low spin (500 r/min) normal temperature temperature 80°C in general drying without stretching machine hand wash: 3H (30°C), low spin (500 r/min) the garment In case the Wascator program for machine hand wash 3H (30°C) is not available, these samples need tumble drying with cool setting / max. where claimed to be washed in a Household washing machine (see Option B). low temperature temperature 60°C where tumbling ISO 6330:2021, detergent 2 IEC (A*), non-phosphate, with optical claimed: for optic white line drying complete loading brightener and with enzymes + TAED + Sodium Percarbonate, as where claimed (with optical brightening agent): (on hanger) of washing to be defined, in total: 20g per cycle do not tumble dry added into Detergent: ISO 6330:2021, detergent 3 ECE (A), non-phosphate, without tumbler for all colors incl. non-optic white, + care text: flat drying optical brightener + TAED + Sodium Percarbonate, as defined, in where claimed off-white, pale shades: (natural drying) total: 20g per cycle dry flat for machine hand wash, wool: PERWOLL liquid (Henkel), 60ml per cycle IRONING: as claimed 2 kg per cycle: samples + make weights = 2 kg Loading: make weights: ISO 6330:2021, Type III, 50g weights made of 100% PES Machines: Hand Iron with steam function HOUSEHOLD WASHING MACHINE ironing process care symbol type of product ironing method WASHING Option B: European brand MIELE/BOSCH, front loader, spinning cycles of 600 and 1.200 rpm required program according to Care Instruction on sew-in-label; hot ironing max. sole plate Program: where claimed additional care information to be followed (e.g.. “inside out”) with steam temperature: 200°C Spinning cycles: see below table in general ironing for optic white warm ironing max. sole plate Persil UNIVERSAL Powder (Henkel); 20g per wash cycle where claimed without stretching (with optical brightening agent): with steam temperature: 150°C the garment Detergent: for all colors incl. non-optic white, Persil COLOR Powder (Henkel), 20g per wash cycle cool ironing max. sole plate off-white, pale shades: where claimed without steam temperature: 110°C for machine hand wash, wool: PERWOLL liquid (Henkel), 60ml per cycle 2 kg per cycle: samples + make weights = 2 kg Loading: do not iron where claimed - Make weights: ISO 6330:2021, Type III, 50g weights made of 100% PES washing process: care symbol: final time for complete measure the sample before washing; wash program spinning wash cycle for products with wash as claimed; dry as claimed for 4 Special Ironing and temperature [rpm] additional care hours in standard atmosphere “iron whilst where claimed instruction (20°C/65%); iron the wet sample as normal agitation 1200 approx. 80-100 min damp” "iron whilst damp" claimed (=whilst damp) and measure it after 30 minutes relaxation mild agitation 1200 approx. 60-80 min Relaxation: after ironing the product must relax for 30 min before measurement takes place very mild (gentle) agitation 600 approx. 40-60 min + care text: cold hand wash machine washable cold Performance For products with Performance Claims “non-iron”, “easy iron”, “water repellent” and “durable water 600 approx. 35-45 min (by using the washing machine) Claims: repellent” follow also SQM chapters “Performance Claims” and “Testing Details”. 30°C Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 17  Supplier Quality Manual C&A In-House Test Methods Contents CA TM 02.1 – Durability Wash Test continued Assessment after 1st, 3rd and 5th washing-drying-ironing Dimensional Stability + Spirality + Appearance (where ironing is claimed, assessment only after ironing; except “non-iron”) Assessment of Dimensional Stability: PASS / FAIL st rd th Dimensional stability in cm and % after 1 , 3 and 5 care cycle (single values as requested in Annex 1) ref. C&A product requirement Assessment of Spirality: PASS / FAIL st rd th Spirality in cm and % after 1 , 3 and 5 care cycle ref. C&A product requirement st rd th Assessment of Appearance after 1 , 3 and 5 care cycle: PASS (Satisfactory) FAIL (Unsatisfactory) Color change of all visible components as shell, lining, collar, waistband etc.. grade 4 or better less than grade 4 (grey scale ISO 105 A02, artificial light D65) denim: grade 3-4 or better denim: less than grade 3-4 Cross staining on all components grade 4-5 or better less than grade 4-5 (grey scale ISO 105 A03, artificial light D65) Pilling/fuzzing/matting grade of washed face side grade 3-4 or better less than grade 3-4 (by use of EMPA photo standards under defined light and angle ref. ISO 12945-4) Loss of fibers of all products incl. these with hairy, raised , brushed face side and/or inside no fiber contamination of wash load or washing fiber contamination of wash load or of washing machine; (e.g.. hoody with brushed inside, flat knits, etc..) machine; slight contamination of tumbler filter obvious contamination of tumbler filter Bright edges on face side (on button panels, collar, waistband, seams, etc..) no changes changes observed Wash creases on face side (crinkles, stripes) no changes changes observed Wavy waistband, collar, neckband, cuff etc.. no changes changes observed Print Stability (main prints, back neck print, print on sew-in label, etc..) no changes changes observed Loss of pile in mm² no changes changes observed Fraying of fabric and trims no changes changes observed Detachment of fastenings & trims (cord ends, tipping, etc..) no changes changes observed Delamination of fused components no changes changes observed Material breaks, holes in fabric, yarn loops no changes changes observed Opening of seams in mm max. 4mm seam opening more than 4mm seam opening Function of zipper /closure (easy to open; zipper components, closures properly fixed) function ok incorrect function Corrosion/damage to trim, scratching of coatings, change of surface color, etc.. no changes changes observed Synthetic filling or down/feather filling uneven; fiber/feather migration no changes changes observed Handfeel no changes changes observed Other observations compared to unwashed reference sample (e.g.. change of brushed inside) no changes changes observed less than grade 4-5: for products with contrast colors grade 4-5 or better: for products with contrast colors Staining assessment of attached Multifiber less than grade 4: for all other products grade 4 (PA: 2-3) or better: for all other products CF to washing + CF to water on reference sample required Test Report: must include all product and testing details incl. care instructions; test results for dimensional stability, spirality and appearance assessment with single PASS/FAIL decisions, any information about observed issues before and during testing. Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 18  Supplier Quality Manual C&A In-House Test Methods Contents CA TM 02.2 – QEI Durability Wash Test (knits) QEI Durability Wash Test (knits) for the assessment of CA TM 02.2 Dimensional Stability, Spirality and Appearance after simulated household washing of fabrics and ready-made garments defined as circular knitted or flat knitted QEI-products Creation Date: 24/Feb/2016 Revision Date: 14/Feb/2024 version 5 Created by: QMTS Revision No.: 4 (replacement of CA TM 02.2 of 30/March/2023) Purpose of Test This test method defines the Durability Washing procedure for circular knitted or flat knitted fabrics and ready-made garments defined as QEI-products and reflects the long-term appearance with focus on product life cycle and customer's satisfaction. This method describes the procedure and assessment for min. 10 and max. 25 washing-drying-ironing care cycles. Scope This test method delivers clear indications about product quality and performance of QEI products. The testing parameters are based on the QEI quality requirements and test methods stated in this SQM. This procedure ensures the alignment of QEI Testing of C&A Authorized Laboratories including control of fabric weight and pilling behavior before washing. Definitions The test procedure for QEI products simulates the behavior of - circular knits after 1st, 5th, 10th, 15th, 20th and 25th care cycle and - flat knits after 1st, 5th, 10th care cycle inclusive drying and ironing referring the indicated QEI Care Instruction and defined testing process. The test includes beside the evaluation of dimensional stability and spirality the detailed assessment of appearance with information about color change, cross staining, fabric surface, workmanship, functionality etc.. The performance of specimen before washing is also considered. Once dried and ironed with the indicated method the garment/fabric is examined visually. Ratings and measurements are taken according to the tables shown below. Norms and Equipment For QEI wash tests only WASCATOR and (where indicated) HOUSEHOLD TUMBLER must be used. In addition to these instructions the following ISO standards and the relevant equipment need to be applied for both options. EN 12127 Fabric weight per unit area (in g/m²) of unwashed reference sample ISO 12945-2 Pilling/fuzzing behavior of unwashed reference sample Annex 1 of CA TM 01, 02.1, 02.2, 02.3: Measuring Sections for Determination of Dimensional Stability ISO 3759 Preparation of fabrics and garments in tests for determination of dimensional change ISO 5077 Method for determination of dimensional change in washing and drying ISO 6330 Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing (as reference) ISO 16322-2 Determination of Spirality/Skew Movement - Woven & knitted fabrics - Method A ISO 16322-3 Determination of Spirality - Woven & knitted garments - Method B ISO 105-A02 Grey scale for assessment of change in color under artificial light D65 ISO 105-A03 Grey scale for assessment of staining under artificial light D65 ISO 12945-4 Pilling/fuzzing/matting assessment of washed surface with EMPA photo standards under under defined light and angle. Chapter “Testing Details” defines which ISO standards must be followed. Conditioning & Testing Atmosphere No special atmospheric conditions are required for the assessment. Test Specimen For circular knits (25 care cycles) 5 identical specimens are required: sample 1-3 for washing, sample 4 as reference sample for the assessment, sample 5 for fabric weight and pilling behavior as received. For flat knits (10 care cycles) 4 identical specimens are required: sample 1+2 for washing, sample 3 as reference sample for the assessment, sample 4 for pilling behavior as received. The reference sample remains in its original state. Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 19  Supplier Quality Manual C&A In-House Test Methods Contents CA TM 02.2 – QEI Durability Wash Test (knits) continued QEI Durability Wash Test Procedure Based on the mandatory QEI Care-Instruction & fabric weight all below defined procedures for washing, drying and ironing must be followed. Before the QEI Durability Wash Test starts, fabric weight (on sample 5 for circular knits) and care instructions on sew-in label must be checked. The control of all specimen before washing is mandatory. In case of failed fabric weight and/or wrong care instructions and/or other observed problems the QEI test needs to be discussed with the local C&A quality team first. For QEI products with line or flat drying the drying is requested only after 1st, 5th, 10th, 15th, 20th and 25th wash cycle. For QEI products which are labelled with tumble drying, tumbling is mandatory after each washing. The complete wash load (samples + make weights) must be added to the tumbler for complete drying. When samples are removed during washing, additional loading (make weights) must be added to continue with 2kg. For QEI tests ironing is requested only after 1st, 5th, 10th, 15th, 20th and 25th cycle. The assessment takes place after ironing. QEI CIRCULAR KNITS (up to 25 care cycles) ASSESSMENT of… QEI FLAT KNITS (up to 10 care cycles) ASSESSMENT samples 1,2,3 samples 1+2 sample 1 after 1st care cycle sample 1 after 1st cycle wash sample 1 with total load of 2kg wash sample 1 with total load of 2kg in comparison to reference sample in comparison to reference sample wash sample 2+3 one cycle sample 2+3 after 1st care cycle sample 2 after 1st cycle wash sample 2 one cycle with total load of 2kg (both in same load: 2kg) in comparison to reference sample in comparison to reference sample continue washes of sample 2+3 up to 5thcycle sample 2+3 after 5th care cycle continue washes of sample 2 up to 5thcycle sample 2 after 5th cycle (both in same load: 2kg) in comparison to reference sample (same load: 2kg) in comparison to reference sample continue washes of sample 2+3 up to 10th cycle sample 2+3 after 10th care cycle continue washes of sample 2 up to 10th cycle sample 2 after 10th cycle in comparison to (both in same load: 2kg) in comparison to reference sample (same load: 2kg) reference sample remove sample 2 after 10th washing; refill load, continue sample 3 after 15th, 20th, 25thcare cycle test of flat knits ends after 10th cycle washes of sample 3 up to 15th, 20th, 25thcycle in comparison to reference sample In case of FAILED results in shrinkage and/or spirality the test stops, and the applicant must be contacted. Note ! In case of FAILED results only in appearance the test continues up to the final care cycle (circ. 25th/flat 10th ). Sample Preparation For test of fabric weight + pilling behavior (as received) the defined methods must be followed. For wash tests of fabrics and garments ISO 3759 to be followed. Marks for measuring sections of apparel need to be added on shell material ref. Annex 1. For indication of color staining a Multifiber (Type CLY with Lyocell) must be attached on sample 1. QEI Durability Washing Procedure WASHING: WASCATOR (software settings according to ISO 6330:2021) according to the mandatory QEI Care-Instructions normal agitation: 3N (30°C), 4N (40°C), 6N (60°C), high spin (800 r/min) Program: mild agitation: 3M (30°C), 4M (40°C), 6M (60°C), low spin (500 r/min) very mild (gentle) agitation: 3G (30°C), 4G (40°C), low spin (500 r/min) 2 kg per cycle: samples + make weights = 2 kg Loading: make weights: ISO 6330:2021, Type III, 50g weights made of 100% PES ISO 6330:2021, detergent 2 IEC (A*), non-phosphate, with optical brightener and with enzymes for optic white (with optical brightening agent): + TAED + Sodium Percarbonate, as defined, in total: 20g per cycle Detergent: ISO 6330:2021, detergent 3 ECE (A), non-phosphate, without optical brightener for all colors incl. non-optic white, off-white, pale shades: + TAED + Sodium Percarbonate, as defined, in total: 20g per cycle Supplier Quality Manual V 08 – Effective date: 01.05.2024 20  Supplier Quality Manual C&A In-House Test Methods Contents CA TM 02.2 – QEI Durability Wash Test (knits) continued For QEI products with line or flat drying the drying is requested only after 1st, 5th, 10th, 15th, 20th and 25th wash cycle. DRYING: For QEI products which are labelled with tumble drying, tumbling is mandatory after each washing. Machine: in case tumbling is foreseen, usage of a Household Tumble Drier ref. ISO 6330:2021 drying process care symbol type of product drying method