Study Note #1 (2) PDF

Desquamation: ​ Skin natural shedding process ​ Stratum corneum ​ New cells replaced from lower stratums - cell turnover ​ Average 28 days - lifestyle, age, and health Exfoliation ​ Process used to aid the skin with desquamation ​ Increase cell turnover, blood flow and circulation...

Desquamation: ​ Skin natural shedding process ​ Stratum corneum ​ New cells replaced from lower stratums - cell turnover ​ Average 28 days - lifestyle, age, and health Exfoliation ​ Process used to aid the skin with desquamation ​ Increase cell turnover, blood flow and circulation ​ Deep pore cleansing ​ Product penetration AKA: “Facial Brush” ​ Main purpose is to lightly exfoliate the skin. ​ In recent years, advanced technology has replaced the rotary brush, like the ultrasonic spatula for deep cleansing. Effects of the Rotary Brush: ​ Provides light exfoliation. ​ Stimulates the skin and helps soften excess oil, dirt, and cell buildup. Contraindications for the Rotary Brush: ​ The brush should not be overused, or it will cause irritations and sensitivity. Safety and Maintenance of the Rotary Brush: ​ Only brush heads that can be fully immersed in a disinfectant of appropriate strength should be used. ​ Some brushes with natural bristles may deteriorate and are prohibited from use due to the inability to clean and disinfect them. Guidelines for Maintaining Brushes: ​ The brushes will break down if left in the ultraviolet sanitizer too long. Benefits of The Professional Masks: ​ Draw impurities out of pores ​ Clear up blemishes ​ Tighten and tone ​ Hydrate ​ Nourish ​ Calm ​ Rejuvenate Examples of Beneficial Ingredients Found in Masks: ​ Vitamin A, C, E ​ Hyaluronic Acid ​ Seaweed ​ Calcium ​ Diatomaceous Earth ​ Bentonite ​ Kaolin ​ Honey ​ Glycerin ​ Zinc Oxide Types of Masks: ​ Cream ​ Gel ​ Mud ​ Wax ​ Setting/ Modeling ​ Peel off ​ Electric Paraffin Wax: - The warmth of the mask increases circulation, penetrates products applied underneath. ​ Dry, mature skin - Applied over gauze with a mask brush Serums and Ampoules: ​ Contain highly concentrated performance ingredients designed to target specific skin conditions and defectively penetrate the skin — difference > packaging Serum and Ampoule Applications: ​ Moisturizers ​ Masks ​ Massage creams ​ Facial machines Serum and Ampoule Benefits: ​ Increase hydration and nourishment ​ Aid in skin tightening, healing and repair ​ Anti-aging, exfoliate, brighten, even out skin tone ​ Balance oil production and acne prevention Extractions: ​ Refers to removal of dead cells, sebum, bacteria, other debris from the skin’s follicles Analysis of the need for Extractions: ​ Dehydrated skin may need a hydrating treatment before extractions. Pre Softening Before Extractions: ❖​ Desincrustation ​ Refers to process of softening the skin and sebaceous impaction by applying a chemical that helps liquefy the sebum, reducing hard solid plugs to a softer consistency. ❖​ Desincrustation Solutions ​ Are more alkaline pH and applied to oily areas, clogged pores, blackheads and pimples to aid with extraction process. pH: Desincrustation: ​ Liquid is applied to affected areas only. ​ Create your own: ○​ 1 teaspoon of Baking Soda ○​ 1 cup of distilled water ​ Apply with a brush or cotton compresses. ​ Sit on face 10-15 min. ​ Used with steam – hydrates the skin making skin more flexible for extractions. ​ Galvanic current – oiler skin (not acne). ​ Suction/Vacuuming – except sensitive, couperose or acne skin. Extraction of Open Comedone: ​ After pre-softening of Desincrustation solution remove product from skin ​ Leave skin moist NOT wet ​ Wrap gloved index finger with damp cotton ​ Using gentle downward pressure technique to extract the comedone ​ Work around the comedone EXTRACTOR – best used on non-fleshy parts. Never use on thin, fragile, sensitive or couperose skin -​ Disinfect after every use Extraction Tools: Extraction of Closed Comedone: ​ Pre-Soften the area well ​ Dilate the follicle with a lancet to create an opening ​ Extract using finger technique or extractor if not in a fleshy area Extractions of Pustules: ​ Gentle press a sterile lancet against the side of the pustule ​ Lift the top away ​ Pus will emerge from follicle opening ​ Hold area taut ​ Gently press downward and inward to remove the remaining impaction ​ Not unusual for a small amount of bleeding to occur Extractions of Milia: ​ Milia are perfectly round in shape ​ Mainly found on the forehead and cheeks ​ Be positive that the lesion is a Milia. Check carefully ​ Spread skin taut around the Milia with your fingertips ​ Using a sterile lancet lift the top cell layers ​ Gentle press and lift on the Milia ​ More pressure on the “unopened” side may help ​ If Milia does not respond to treatment, do not attempt to extract General Rules for Extractions: ​ Do not extract for over 10 min. ​ Do no use AHA products after extractions. High Frequency: ​ Utilizes an alternating smooth, repetitive Tesla pulse current. ​ No polarity, in effect doesn’t produce chemical changes. Makes product penetration physically impossible. ​ The rapid oscillation created by machine vibrates water molecules in skin. ​ Esthetic devices have mild heat effect, whereas stronger heat reaction like thermolysis is used for electrolysis. Electrodes: ​ Several types of direct or indirect electrodes are available, each with unique benefits and features that produce specific physiological reactions. ​ Gases replace air in tubes and as electricity passes through these gases, they emit visible shades of light. ​ Neon gas: pink, orange, or red light; used for sensitive skin and aging skin. ​ Argon gas: blue or violet light; used for normal to oily skin and acne prone skin. Effects of High Frequency ​ Has an antiseptic and healing effect on the skin because it creates ozone. ​ Stimulates circulation. ​ Helps oxygenate the skin. ​ Increases cell metabolism. ​ Helps coagulate + heal open lesion after extraction by sparking with electrode. ​ Generates a warm feeling that has a relaxing effect on the skin. Contraindications: ​ Couperose skin ​ Inflamed areas ​ Pacemakers ​ Metal Implants ​ Heart problems ​ High blood pressure ​ Braces ​ Epilepsy ​ Clients who are pregnant ​ Body piercings from the waist up Indirect High Frequency Technique: ​ 2nd technique used with High Frequency. Not widely used but very relaxing and beneficial to stimulating the skin ​ Creates a regenerating action ​ Increases blood flow ​ Great for skin lacking firmness and tone ​ Stimulating for dry skin Safety and Maintenance for High Frequency: ​ After every use clean electrode with soap and water ​ DO NOT use alcohol on electrode ​ Wipe only the glass end (NOT the metal) with disinfecting wipe Incorporating High Frequency into Facial Treatments: -​ Direct -​ Indirect BENEFITS OF MASSAGE: ​ Relaxation ​ Stimulation ​ Improves metabolism ​ Helps muscle tone ​ Cleansing ​ Exfoliation ​ Reduces puffiness ​ Product absorption ​ Relieves tension ​ Sense of well-being FACIAL MASSAGE CONTRAINDICATIONS: ​ Contagious diseases ​ Inflamed acne ​ Sunburn, windburn ​ Sensitive skin ​ Open lesions, cuts, sores ​ Skin disorders ​ Severe, uncontrolled hypertension ​ Uncontrolled diabetes EFFLEURAGE: ​ Soft, continuous stroking movement ​ Begin and end sessions ​ Position of fingers and palm PETRISSAGE: ​ Compression technique ​ Affects deeper muscle tissue ​ Stimulates circulation FRICTION: ​ Stimulates circulation and glandular activity ALTERNATIVE MASSAGE TECHNIQUES: ​ Acupressure ​ Shiatsu ​ Pressure point massage ​ Aromatherapy ​ Manual lymph drainage Ultrasound Technology: ​ Ultrasound, or ultrasonic, refers to a frequency that is above the range of sound audible to the human ear. ​ Ultrasound equipment uses noninvasive sound waves. ​ Ultrasonic equipment is based on high-frequency mechanical oscillations produced by a metal spatula-like tool. When to use and Effects of Ultrasound Technology: ​ Used for product penetration and for cellulite reduction. ​ Vibrations, created through water medium, help cleanse and exfoliate skin. ​ Ultrasound penetrates deeply—it stimulates tissue, increases blood flow, and promotes oxygenation. ○​ Cellulite is affected through heat manipulation of tissue and lymphatic movements performed with device. ○​ Heat damage stimulates collagen production. ​ Sonophoresis: process where device sends waves through skin to assist in product penetration. ​ Some equipment is rated as an FDA Class II device and may not be within an esthetician’s scope of practice outside of a medical facility. ​ Hand-held devices for consumer’s personal use at home are milder and should be used in moderation. ​ Okay choice for clients with sensitive skin or rosacea. Contraindications: ​ Open or unidentified skin lesions ​ Heart conditions ​ Pacemakers or electrical implants ​ Epilepsy ​ Pregnancy ​ Advanced diabetes ​ Cancerous lesions Definitions: Epidermis -​ Outermost layer of skin + protects body from environment Dermis -​ Inner layer of the two main layers of skin Subcutaneous layer -​ Layer of tissue that underlies the skin Adipose -​ A connective tissue, but its also an interactive organ in your endocrine system Desmosomes -​ Specialized adhesive protein complexes that localize to intercellular junctions and are responsible for maintaining the mechanical integrity of tissues Keratinocytes -​ The primary type of cell found in the epidermis Melanocytes -​ A cell in the skin and eyes that produces and contains the pigment called melanin Merkel cells -​ A special type of cell found right below the epidermis (top layer of skin) Collagen -​ Gives strength and flexibility Elastin -​ Returns the stretched structures into original shape Stratum Corneum -​ The outermost layer of the epidermis Stratum Lucidum -​ A smooth, seemingly translucent layer of the epidermis located just above the stratum granulosum and below the stratum corneum Stratum Granulosum -​ Layer of cells in epidermis lying above the stratum spinosum and below stratum lucidum Stratum Spinosum -​ Also called the prickle cell layer Stratum Germinativum -​ Separated from dermis by basement membrane and attached to it by hemidesmosomes Comedones -​ Small, non-inflammatory acne lesions that appear as flesh-colored, white, or dark bumps Milia -​ Tiny, firm painless, white or yellowish bumps Dehydration -​ Lack of total body water that disrupts metabolic processes Sun Damage -​ When sun prematurely ages the skin, called photoaging, and can lead to skin cancer Enlarged Pores -​ Excessive sebum Erythema -​ Broad term for skin conditions that cause redness due to inflammation Hyperkeratinization -​ Occurs when cells of follicle become cohesive + do not shed normally onto skins surface Keratosis -​ Skin growth that occurs when keratinocytes multiply rapidly Seborrhea -​ Chronic, relapsing skin condition that affects areas of body with many oil glands Couperose Skin -​ Condition caused by weakened blood vessels in face, usually on cheeks and nose Sensitivities -​ Skin that reacts more than normal to external factors Wrinkles/Aging -​ Skin becomes thinner, drier, and less elastic Poor Elasticity -​ Saggy, crinkled, or leathery skin Hyperpigmentation -​ Skin darkening due to excess melanin production Hypopigmentation -​ Lightening of the skin color due to an abnormally low amount of melanin Irritation -​ Discomfort, itching or redness at a specific location Rosacea -​ Redness, flushing, bumps and visible blood vessels on the face Cysts -​ Closed sac-like structure that can occur anywhere in the body Papules -​ Small, inflamed bumps in skin, usually cone-shaped and don’t have a pus-filled tip Pustules -​ Small bumps on skin that contain pus, usually caused by acne or infection Asphyxiated -​ Clogged and cells do not receive proper nutrition or oxygen Adult Acne -​ Acne that occurs after age 25