Press Finish Garment PDF

# Press Finish Garment ## What is pressing? Pressing is the application of heat, moisture and pressure maintaining actual time to give shape, mold, or crease on fabrics, garments, or garment parts into the geometric forms. Pressing is done for making the fabric smooth or to give it a perfect form....

# Press Finish Garment ## What is pressing? Pressing is the application of heat, moisture and pressure maintaining actual time to give shape, mold, or crease on fabrics, garments, or garment parts into the geometric forms. Pressing is done for making the fabric smooth or to give it a perfect form. It is an important finishing process in apparel industry. Pressing or ironing is done during assembly or as a final finishing process. ## Pressing & Ironing - **Trouser Pressing** - **Dummy/Form Pressing** - **Steamer** - **Block Pressing Machine** ## Categories or Types of Garment Pressing * **No Pressing** Some garments are available, these are not need to pressing. Such as, underwear, briefs, swimwear. These types' garments are made by knitted fabric. * **Minimum Pressing** Some garments are available, these are not needed finishing done by applying heat but no need pressing. Such as Night gowns knitted T-Shirt, Leisure wear and so on. These types of garments are pressing by steaming and by flowing dry air to the garments and called minimum pressing * **Under Pressing** To do help for sewing easily and beautifully, it must need to give minimum pressing to some parts of garments before sewing is called under pressing. Specially, under pressing is done to most of the garments industries for making coat, jacket, and trouser and so on. Sometimes, there is needed of unpicking and again under pressing is done before sewing. * **Final Pressing** These types' garments are applying heat and pressing to the garments. This is done after making of garments. This is generally done in jacket, trouser, skirt and so on. Special type of pressing machine is used for final pressing. * **Permanent Pressing** Permanent pressing is a special type of pressing, when it is given to retain the shape of garments or special conditions. Such as, dart and pleat, which cannot be displace or drawn-off after washing of garments again and again. This type of pressing is done by applying high temperature and steam, sometimes, there is needed for pressing. ## Purposes of Garment Pressing * **Removal of unwanted creases and crinkles:** Different types of unwanted creases and crinkles are happened during making of garments. It may be forms due to the washing of garments. To remove these unwanted creases and crinkles from the garments, pressing or ironing is done. * **To apply creases where necessary:** Sometimes, it is applied creasing effect to the garments to increase the beauty of that garments. Also, this is done before sewing to increase the beauty and proper sewing to the garments. These creases are applied by pressing. * **Shaping:** Dart and seam are use to the garments for proper shaping to the wearer. To increase the beauty and attractiveness of created shape by using dart and seam is done by pressing. Sometimes it needs to shrink or stretch of garments parts for shaping, generally, pressing machine consists of a special type of bed is used for pressing. ## Methods and Equipment of Garment Pressing **Pressing** is a very essential finishing process in garment industry. By pressing unwanted creases and wrinkles are removed from the garments and as well as appearance of garments become well. The garments may be different in types, especially, different in design and garments materials. As a result, it needs different types of pressing for different types of garments and need different types pressing machine. There are different types of pressing marching or equipment are using are given below: ## Iron * At the ancient period, a small case, made by iron in which the heated coal and wood is used by burning and the garments are pressed by the lower smooth surfaces of case. * At present, these coal and wood are replaced by electricity and this eclectic iron is widely used in household purpose. * To control the temperature of electric iron, it is needed to control the regulator. * For updating and to do easy, Iron is heated by supplying steam to the steam Iron. * The steam inlet and outlet is controlled by a controlling switch provided in the Iron. * For steam Iron, special air suction bed is used to control the unexpected crease on garments. * This is triangular in shape and weighted from 1 to 15 kegs. ## Steam Press * This contains a static buck and a head whose are shaped with each other. * The fabric is placed on the buck and the head is placed then on it and pressing is done by applying heat and pressure. * The ironing bed is made by spreading the layers of fabrics on the buck which is placed in a frame. * There is provided air suction and steam flow system through the buck. * The table is placed around the buck on which fabric is placed. ## Steam Air Finisher * This type of garments finishing machine is known as puffer or dolly press. * The dolly press contains a frame which contains form and the steam and compressed air are flowed by pipe through the form. * The pressing form is generally made by heavy canvas fabric. * There is no sleeve and the usable form size is made according to the size of body of garments. * Steam and air are supplied for a predetermined time by using a timer. * Normally 8 seconds for steam supply and next 8 seconds for hot air supply. * This type pressing is used for pressing T-shirts, jeans, pants, blouses, and sportswear and so on. ## Steam Tunnel * In this process garments are pressed without any pressure. * Garments are hung on hanger and pushed into a tanner containing separate chamber through a running rain. * Garments are heated on first chamber and unexpected crease is removed from fabric by relaxation and gravitational force. * Garments are dried by hot air in the 2nd chamber. * This type of pressing is used for pressing T-shirts and knitted wears. ## Pressing * Pressing is the application of heat, moisture and pressure to shape, mould, or crease fabrics, garments, or garment parts into the geometric forms. * Pressing may be done: * During assembly to facilitate other operations and improve quality. * Final finishing process * The purpose of pressing is to make the fabric smooth or to give it a form, such as turnup or hem. ## Elements of Pressing * **Heat:** Heat is needed in most pressing processes to soften fibers, stabilize and set the desired shape. Temperatures must be selected to suit the fibers yarns, and fabrics used in a particular style. Sources of heat include heated surfaces and steam. * **Steam (Moisture):** It is the fastest means of transferring heat into the fabrics. Steam is created by heating water in a pressure/boiler. The higher the pressure the hotter and drier the steam. Different fabrics require different amount of moisture and heat, excessive moisture may cause shrinkage and color bleeding and must be used under controlled conditions. * **Pressure:** It is applied to alter shape and increase the permanency of the moulding or creasing. Too much pressure may distort fabric surfaces, flatten textures and create permanent garment and/or fabric damage. * **Vacuum:** After application of heat and moisture, it is the vacuum which sucks ambient air through the garment as it lies on the buck or pressing table. This rapidly dries out residual moisture from the garment and ensures that the set imparted by pressing is retained. Suction also ensures garments is in place before pressing and it does not shift. ## Types of Pressing Equipment * Buck Presses * Iron Pressing * Block or die Pressing * Form Pressing * Steamers * Steam Tunnels ## Buck Pressing * These are commonly used by manufactures of slacks, skirts, and jackets. * **Components:** * Lower buck * Moveable head with a linkage system * Buck padding stem and vacuum system frame * Manual or automatic control for steams, vacuum, heat and pressure. * Covered with heat resistent silicon Foams * It may be used for in-process pressing & finish pressing. ## Iron Pressing * **Point presser:** for pressing collars and cuffs * **Tailors ham:** For darts and curved seams * **Sleeve Board:** It is two small ironing boards to press narrow areas such as sleeves and trouser legs. * **MITT:** to press sleeve caps and ruffles. ## Block Pressing * It is a molding process that establishes a products conformance to a form. * It may change the surface characteristics and dimension of a product. * The fabric is placed on a fixed form before pressure heat and steam is applied. * It is used to crease patch pockets and pocket flaps. ## Form Pressing * Form presses are made in the approximate shape of the finished garments. * Steam is forced from the inside of the form through garment while the form expands to fill all the space inside the garment. * It is designed to reduce the amount of positioning and re-positioning time. ## Steamers * These are the pressing machine that uses only steam to mold and smooth the garment. * **Types of steamers:** * steam jets * steam guns * steam puffs * steam tunnels * These devices may be used either to form and stabilize garment shape. ## Steam Tunnels * These are used for final pressing. * Garments are de-wrinkled within a chamber by the average pressure of circulating steam. * Garments are carried over the nozzle of a steam jet in order for the garment to receive the full force of the steam pressure. * It reduces labor costs and process garment at a rate of 1200 to 3600 units per hour. ## Flat Bed Pneumatic * Head is suspended on rocker arms for self aligning with the bed. * Machined pressing surface. * Pneumatic raising and lowering with push buttons. * Perforated bed prodded with sponge padding. Powerful centrifugal suction for moisture exhaust. * Automatic timed release of the head at preset time. * Automatic digital temperature control of the head. ## Vacuum * Vacuum systems are used to remove the excess steam used in the equipments of finishing and pressing sub processes and for suction of waste produced by cutting and sewing sub processes. * Over-consumption in this area is due to: * All or nothing utilization, i.e, even if only one production machine is in use the suction is being applied to all machines; * Leakage in network; * Extracted hot air is wasted (of steam consumer machines) * Lack of electronic control and frequency variation. ## Iron * **Ironing** is the use of a heated tool to remove wrinkles from fabric. * **Ironing** involves sliding an iron back and forth to remove wrinkles and is normally only done to finished garments. * The heating is commonly done to a temperature of 180-220 °Celsius, depending on the fabric. * Ironing works by loosening the bonds between the long-chain polymer molecules in the fibers of the material. * While the molecules are hot, the fibers are straightened by the weight of the iron, and they hold their new shape as they cool. ## Types of Iron * **A. Dry Iron** * Light weight irons weighing about 1.4 kgs with a heat range of between 70 and 240 degree C and electronic temperature controls that have a reliable accuracy of +/- 3 degree C. * This type of iron is made in a variety of shapes and is mainly used for smoothing or finishing operations where steam is unnecessary. * **B. Electric Steam Irons** * These are the most commonly used type of hand iron and carry out a wide variety of operations, especially those concerned with under pressing. * The iron has a heating element and steam is fed from a central or independent boiler into the steam chamber in the base of the iron. * The heat generated can be controlled by a thermostat, and supplied with steam either from factory's main steam supply or from a small boiler adjacent to the pressing unit. * The steam function of the iron is activated by the touch of a button. ## Types of Iron Tables * There are three types of Iron Tables: * Vacuum Table * 'Up steam' Table * Blow Up Table ## Vacuum Table * The vacuum is sucked through the table surface to lay the garment flat on the surface as well as suck the residual moisture and heat from the garment after ironing. ## 'Upsteam' Table * In this steam comes up from table surface through garments thus moistening the garment. * This is used for knitted garments. * An up-steam table guarantees a complete and even distribution of steam and suction over the whole surface. * All parts contacted by steam are made of stainless steel. * which prevents spots from corrosion and guarantees a long working life and trouble-free operation. ## Blow Up Table * In 1969, VEIT invented the blow up table that offers cushioning effect to the garments due to the upward thrust of air from the table which prevents ironing marks on the garments. * Air blowing is used in combination with vacuum to assist in finishing the garment without leaving marks. * Using air blowing, the garment is expanded and pressed on a cushion of air where ironing is possible without putting in marks.